Eyeware For Close Work On Very Small Objects?

On 11/19/2013 11:29 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 19 Nov 2013 20:06:51 -0600, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:


I'm thinking about buying these: http://tinyurl.com/npbcgdx

Those are binoculars suitable for distance viewing. You can get a
clue as to their effectiveness by comparing their size to that of a
real pair of 7x35 binoculars.

Quality is not such a big issue with me because they would only be for
occasional use - and not for that long a time each use.

Cheap and simple optics usually result in some form of aberration.
Chromatic (color) distortion, poor depth of field, wrong viewing
distance, dim image, etc. You can't really tell the difference
between quality and junk until you've made a side by side comparison.

The advertising verbiage is confusing, it says "Eye Jeweler Watch
Repair" and "Required by fishing enthusiasts" and "to ensure a distance
of 400-500 meters" I don't believe this item can focus at 16" and 300Ft/

That makes sense if you realize that they're wearable distance
binoculars, no close up magnifiers.

I'm hoping Jeff Lieberman sees this and gives his input. I don't
know optics.

Hay, spel my nayme correctlee.

Hey mann, I'm really sorry, do you give 1/2 credit for getting the ie
in the correct order? I only got that right because I checked.
Sorry.

I only know enough about optics to get myself in trouble. Please
double check whatever I claim.

I do know my optivisor is good at 8", but it's hard to work
at 8".

This video gives some good advice on the Optivisor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwnLeL3jGco
You have the wrong magnification and need to pick the distance at
which you plan to work first, which sets the magnification.

I have two optivisors, two different powers, plus an optiloupe on one.
Oh, and I where a 4.25 diopter contact lens and a 2.25 pair of reading
glasses.

Time for you drag yourself down to the drug store reading glasses
display. Bring a tape measure and some reading material. What you
want to do is pick a specific power of lens and measure the distances
where the image remains in focus (depth of field). High power glasses
will focus over a short distance and will need to have the reading
material fairly close to your eyes. Low power works over a larger
range of distances and farther away from your eyes. Make a chart and
nail it to the wall. Don't bother trying to find a "typical" chart on
the internet as the depth of field varies with your eyes. If you have
astigmatism, like me, it can be rather atypical. There are also
different definitions of diopters as well as "conventional" and
"maximum" magnification.

I buy my glasses ten at a time from the dollar store. (2.25D) I buy
them so I can sit in my computer chair and see the screen. I can't sit
back very much though or I can't focus, but I want 2.25D because I can
also read a book or paper.

I recently bought a set of binocular type glasses to watch Texas
Holdem Poker. I could not make out the percentages graphic on the
screen. With the lenses at 10ft/11ft I can see all the tv screen but
not much more, but I can easily read the percentage graphic. Any closer
than 10ft and it is difficult to focus. I popped $140.00 for them.
The same company makes a pair that focuses at about 16 inches, I'll
probably end up with a pair of those too.
Mikek
 
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> wrote:
Sergey Kubushyn wrote:


If you have some money to spend go buy Madell SZM7045TR Trinocular
Microscope with Double Bar Boom Stand. It is $590 right now and that is
the best tool for SMD work I ever invested in :) It is here:

http://www.madelltech.com/m4-3.html

My advice -- do NOT try to save $70 or so by purchasing a SINGLE bar boom
stand. You'll regret it. Double bar is WAY better.

Yup, this is the EXACT same microscope we have at work. We also
have the double bar stand, although it is much longer than the one
shown on the Madell site. But, we also had that same fluorescent
ring light. Worked great, but ate almost a whole INCH of working
distance, as it hooks to the END of the microscope body.
I made an LED ring that sits just under the white ring with the
thumbscrews that the scope sits on, so it is totally out of your way.

With 0.5x lens that inch is absolutely not an issue. And even if you remove
that ring light it will be too close to the work to solder under it so you
need that lens anyways :) It IS possible to work under it as-is, without
0.5x lens but it is not very easy and you still have possible objectives
contamination with solder fumes issues. Having that lens makes it a pleasure
to work with and you can use their out-of-the-box ring light :)

The double bar is quite long so it easily reaches across the entire depth of
my workbench.

---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************
 
mike wrote:


I also have an optical stereo zoom microscope.
Very handy for inspection, but it's very hard to work under.
It's just too close. And mine has an accessory lens that extends
that distance somewhat. Still hard to get tools under it.
And I worry about the smoke from soldering messing up the lens.
The good ones have a "working distance" of 4 to 6 inches,
or even more!
This is a spec that SHOULD be listed, just check that any
particular unit has enough.
Second issue is lighting. Your hands are always in the way.
I solved that problem with a fiber-optic light that surrounds
the lens.
I made a ring of PCB material, cut a groove so there is an inner
and an outer ring, and soldered 8 while LEDs to it, with series
resistors. Works great, hugs real close to the SIDE of the
microscope body, so you don't lose any of that precious working
distance. Runs off a wall-warp power supply. I've made two
of these now for different scopes, I really like them.

Jon
 
gregz wrote:

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote:
Per Rich Webb:
Get an Optivisor. <http://www.doneganoptical.com/products/optivisor

But it does not focus, right?

i.e. your vision needs to be already corrected to 20-20 before you use
it.

??

I often used regular cheap reading glasses along with the visor. I had to
remove any glasses when using the microscope.

Greg
Yes, I take my glasses off when using a microscope. Then, I have to
tweak the eyepiece focus adjustments to opposite limits, because
my eyes are massively mismatched. 20:500 in one eye and 20:250 in the
other. But, getting your eyes right up close to the eyepieces gives
you a much wider field of view. You lose all the astigmatism
correction of your prescription eyewear, but the magnification
WAY more than makes up for it. (Also, a good STRONG workpiece light
system closes your pupils down so there really isn't much astigmatism
to worry about.)

Jon
 
Sergey Kubushyn wrote:


If you have some money to spend go buy Madell SZM7045TR Trinocular
Microscope with Double Bar Boom Stand. It is $590 right now and that is
the best tool for SMD work I ever invested in :) It is here:

http://www.madelltech.com/m4-3.html

My advice -- do NOT try to save $70 or so by purchasing a SINGLE bar boom
stand. You'll regret it. Double bar is WAY better.
Yup, this is the EXACT same microscope we have at work. We also
have the double bar stand, although it is much longer than the one
shown on the Madell site. But, we also had that same fluorescent
ring light. Worked great, but ate almost a whole INCH of working
distance, as it hooks to the END of the microscope body.
I made an LED ring that sits just under the white ring with the
thumbscrews that the scope sits on, so it is totally out of your way.

Jon
 
On 11/19/2013 10:05 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 19 Nov 2013 12:25:59 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid
wrote:

We are very big fans of Mag-Eyes:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=mageyes&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=

They are extremely light weight and the optical quality is fine. Plus
you can wear them over regular glasses and they barely make your head
sweat on humid days.

I have no affiliation other than as a happy customer.
 
Per dave:
We are very big fans of Mag-Eyes:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=mageyes&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=

Have you tried them without wearing glasses? Does sliding the lenses
in and out compensate?
--
Pete Cresswell
 
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> wrote:
Sergey Kubushyn wrote:


With 0.5x lens that inch is absolutely not an issue. And even if you
remove that ring light it will be too close to the work to solder under it
so you need that lens anyways :) It IS possible to work under it as-is,
without 0.5x lens but it is not very easy and you still have possible
objectives contamination with solder fumes issues. Having that lens makes
it a pleasure to work with and you can use their out-of-the-box ring light
:)

No, I don't have the 0.5x objective lens, and I have PLENTY or
room to work under the scope, now that I've removed their ring
light. It was still usable, but just a little clumsy with their
light. I just measured my actual working distance, it is 4" (100mm).
That is enough for me to work on a board with X-acto knife, tweezers,
soldering iron, etc.

You should've tried that lens :) I thought I have sufficient working
distance too but I had to put a clear filter to protect objectives from
solder fumes (I do use solid rosin alot so there are always plums of smoke)
that would've destroyed them in no time. Everything changed when I had that
lens installed. NOW I do REALLY have room to work under the microscope :)

BTW, usual disclaimer here -- I don't have any affiliation with Madell, just
a happy user of one of their really good products (not everything they sell
is good; some is utmost crap :)

---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************
 
Sergey Kubushyn wrote:


With 0.5x lens that inch is absolutely not an issue. And even if you
remove that ring light it will be too close to the work to solder under it
so you need that lens anyways :) It IS possible to work under it as-is,
without 0.5x lens but it is not very easy and you still have possible
objectives contamination with solder fumes issues. Having that lens makes
it a pleasure to work with and you can use their out-of-the-box ring light
:)
No, I don't have the 0.5x objective lens, and I have PLENTY or
room to work under the scope, now that I've removed their ring
light. It was still usable, but just a little clumsy with their
light. I just measured my actual working distance, it is 4" (100mm).
That is enough for me to work on a board with X-acto knife, tweezers,
soldering iron, etc.

Jon
 
On 11/21/2013 07:11 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per dave:
We are very big fans of Mag-Eyes:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=mageyes&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=

Have you tried them without wearing glasses? Does sliding the lenses
in and out compensate?

You focus by moving the MagEyes closer or farther from the work. They
will work either with or without reading glasses.
 

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