Driver to drive?

On Wednesday, 26 June 2019 15:10:02 UTC+7, Jan Panteltje wrote:
On a sunny day (Wed, 26 Jun 2019 00:00:48 -0700 (PDT)) it happened Castorp
nikolaibeev@gmail.com> wrote in
d44bba7e-bf77-4edc-bacd-fb3c58f47dc2@googlegroups.com>:

On Wednesday, 26 June 2019 07:13:43 UTC+2, Jan Panteltje wrote:
On a sunny day (Tue, 25 Jun 2019 18:45:09 -0700 (PDT)) it happened
arjen@personalrecharge.com wrote in
c9b0fc07-7bc5-448f-8a88-9f8a8ec4770b@googlegroups.com>:

On Wednesday, 26 June 2019 03:44:34 UTC+7, Gerhard Hoffmann wrote:
Am 25.06.19 um 11:41 schrieb Castorp:
On Tuesday, 25 June 2019 09:46:03 UTC+2, ar...@personalrecharge.com wrote:


the sub-d connectors are quite poor in quality, it may play a role, but
im supprised as to why it doesnt work. just to be sure, can you see if
its pin 1 on 1, etc? as i cannot see the whole cable on your image.

I just checked it with a multimeter. It's 1 to 1, 2 to 2... 9 to 9.

I guess you're using the correct port (Serial 2). So I don't know what could
be wrong.

maybe one of the plugs is in the inverted direction?
It would look 1:1 but it isn't. check the pin NUMBERS.
Gerhard

I'Ve tried it both ways, straight and reversed, both with similar results,
odd thing beeing if i connect the cable straight, pin number to pin number
and omit pin 1-6-9, i dont get the fault at start up, but i get the fault
as soon as the controller unit attempts to communicate with the RF unit.
ive seen a serial test protocol in the service manual, i guess that's the
next stop, and some nice AMP sub-D connectors would be good also.

Gotta say, you guys have a nice online community here, everyone's very helpful,
Thank you all! i really appreciate that!


To see what the situation is, use a voltmeter on pin 2 and 3 of the things,
the Tx pin should be negative several volts,
and the Rx pin should be around zero volts.
Meaure it on both sides, then you know what Rx and Tx is,
and cross connect those:
Rx to TX on the other sde, and Tx or Rx on the other side.
All other ways are guesswork.

Check baudrate and parity settings.

I don't think you have any control over the settings and baud rate.

About the pin numbering - I checked that too. They match.

The same goes for the hardware handshake lines,
it is not often used these days I think, but it is posssible older equipment uses DTR (data terminal ready, output) on pin 4
and DSR (data set ready, input) on pin 6,
same for
RTS (request to send, output) on pin 7,
and CTS (clear to send, input) on pin 8.

And there is also
DCD (data carrier detect, input) on pin 1.

So you cannot connect the cable 1 to 1.

RTS (out) should go to CTS (in),
and CTS (in) to RTS (out).

And DTR (out) shoudl go to DSR (in),
and DSR (in) to DTR(out)

Or this (with 2 and 3 swapped):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Null_modem#/media/File:D9_Null_Modem_Wiring.png
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Null_modem

So you can loop back too, ig no handshake is needed by connecting CTS to RTS on the same connector, and DTR to DSR, etc.

Hopefully this does not create more confusion ;-)

It is simple actually.

Allright then, did some trouble shooting and found that the power supply of the RF unit had a shorted tantalum capacitor, and no negative voltages present, so i replaced the capacitors, and now it communicates, and the voltages on the power supply seem to be within range. However, now i get a calibration error on the device, so that's the next puzzle to solve.
 
On Friday, 28 June 2019 08:40:41 UTC+2, ar...@personalrecharge.com wrote:
On Wednesday, 26 June 2019 15:10:02 UTC+7, Jan Panteltje wrote:
On a sunny day (Wed, 26 Jun 2019 00:00:48 -0700 (PDT)) it happened Castorp
nikolaibeev@gmail.com> wrote in
d44bba7e-bf77-4edc-bacd-fb3c58f47dc2@googlegroups.com>:

On Wednesday, 26 June 2019 07:13:43 UTC+2, Jan Panteltje wrote:
On a sunny day (Tue, 25 Jun 2019 18:45:09 -0700 (PDT)) it happened
arjen@personalrecharge.com wrote in
c9b0fc07-7bc5-448f-8a88-9f8a8ec4770b@googlegroups.com>:

On Wednesday, 26 June 2019 03:44:34 UTC+7, Gerhard Hoffmann wrote:
Am 25.06.19 um 11:41 schrieb Castorp:
On Tuesday, 25 June 2019 09:46:03 UTC+2, ar...@personalrecharge..com wrote:


the sub-d connectors are quite poor in quality, it may play a role, but
im supprised as to why it doesnt work. just to be sure, can you see if
its pin 1 on 1, etc? as i cannot see the whole cable on your image.

I just checked it with a multimeter. It's 1 to 1, 2 to 2... 9 to 9.

I guess you're using the correct port (Serial 2). So I don't know what could
be wrong.

maybe one of the plugs is in the inverted direction?
It would look 1:1 but it isn't. check the pin NUMBERS.
Gerhard

I'Ve tried it both ways, straight and reversed, both with similar results,
odd thing beeing if i connect the cable straight, pin number to pin number
and omit pin 1-6-9, i dont get the fault at start up, but i get the fault
as soon as the controller unit attempts to communicate with the RF unit.
ive seen a serial test protocol in the service manual, i guess that's the
next stop, and some nice AMP sub-D connectors would be good also.

Gotta say, you guys have a nice online community here, everyone's very helpful,
Thank you all! i really appreciate that!


To see what the situation is, use a voltmeter on pin 2 and 3 of the things,
the Tx pin should be negative several volts,
and the Rx pin should be around zero volts.
Meaure it on both sides, then you know what Rx and Tx is,
and cross connect those:
Rx to TX on the other sde, and Tx or Rx on the other side.
All other ways are guesswork.

Check baudrate and parity settings.

I don't think you have any control over the settings and baud rate.

About the pin numbering - I checked that too. They match.

The same goes for the hardware handshake lines,
it is not often used these days I think, but it is posssible older equipment uses DTR (data terminal ready, output) on pin 4
and DSR (data set ready, input) on pin 6,
same for
RTS (request to send, output) on pin 7,
and CTS (clear to send, input) on pin 8.

And there is also
DCD (data carrier detect, input) on pin 1.

So you cannot connect the cable 1 to 1.

RTS (out) should go to CTS (in),
and CTS (in) to RTS (out).

And DTR (out) shoudl go to DSR (in),
and DSR (in) to DTR(out)

Or this (with 2 and 3 swapped):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Null_modem#/media/File:D9_Null_Modem_Wiring.png
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Null_modem

So you can loop back too, ig no handshake is needed by connecting CTS to RTS on the same connector, and DTR to DSR, etc.

Hopefully this does not create more confusion ;-)

It is simple actually.

Allright then, did some trouble shooting and found that the power supply of the RF unit had a shorted tantalum capacitor, and no negative voltages present, so i replaced the capacitors, and now it communicates, and the voltages on the power supply seem to be within range. However, now i get a calibration error on the device, so that's the next puzzle to solve.

Good job!
Do you have Source connected to IN on the RF unit with a short BNC-BNC cable?
 
On 26/06/2019 22:59, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote:
Just make sure you buy one with the 14 bit IF card...

Care to elaborate?

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Well, I don't suppose it'll affect working at baseband since these cards
have their own ADC's, but for working at higher frequencies the 14 bit
IF card is worth having. Last time I was looking for an E4406 on ebay
none of the dozen or so units had the 14 bit IF card.

FYI these are the serial numbers to look out for:-

Serial number beginning MY (made in Malaysia), or US41513009 or greater.

Alternatively, a serial number on this list: US4136 prefix, with suffix
2964, 2977, 2982, 2986, 2987, 2988, 2989, 2990, 2991, 2992, 2993, 2998,
3000, 3003, 3004, 3005, 3006, or 3007.
 
On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 9:59:38 AM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

I need another FFT analyzer. I really like my HP 35660A, but it only
goes up to 100 kHz (50 kHz for two-channel measurements). I'd really
like one that goes up to at least 10 MHz, and can do the same sorts of
stuff, especially display noise spectral density in different units on
different scales and perform frequency response testing easily.

There are a bunch of USB-style things, which might be okay as long as
they have Linux software available.

What I really want is a smallish boat anchor with two channels, 14-16
bit resolution, > 50 MS/s sampling, FFT analysis, a nice display, and
that can talk to USB sticks.

Any faves?

Thanks

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

I have this scope on my bench and I like the FFT function. Off the top of my head, I think it meets your specs...( my scope is fully loaded with all the math packs)
https://www.keysight.com/en/pdx-x201899-pn-MSOX3104A/mixed-signal-oscilloscope-1-ghz-4-analog-plus-16-digital-channels?nid=-32540.1150227&cc=US&lc=eng
They have been in the market for 4-5 years now so you might be able to pick up a used one at 1/2 price...
 
I have this scope on my bench and I like the FFT function.  Off the
top of my head, I think it meets your specs..

Scopes are almost always 8 bits, which limits their FFTs to about 50 dB dynamic range. (I have four scopes that do FFTs.)

The HP 89410A suits me very well apart from the 1/f noise.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs
 
pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote...
The HP 89410A suits me very well apart from the 1/f noise.

It's big and bulky, and awkward. HP made elegant portable
FFT-based audio analyzers, to 50 or 100kHz, in the old days.
Why can't somebody make similar now, but to 5 or 10MHz?


--
Thanks,
- Win
 
On 7/4/19 2:29 PM, Winfield Hill wrote:
pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote...

The HP 89410A suits me very well apart from the 1/f noise.

It's big and bulky, and awkward.

Well, so am I, except for awkward. I have this nice 7-foot HP rack to
put boat anchors in. I pay about three cents on the dollar for
top-of-the-line instruments, which suits me very well.

Of course in my line of work, I get to keep the money I don't spend. ;)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs



--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
 
On Saturday, October 26, 2019 at 5:49:41 AM UTC-4, Chris wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 00:33:57 -0400, Jim Horton wrote:

Just wanted to share the demo for the spark generator in its new
housing. The sparks you see are about 110 mm.

Is it FCC compliant?

Would such a spark gap be considered an unintentional radiator or a transmitter? They were the basis of the earliest transmitters, right?

--

Rick C.

- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
 
On 10/26/19 11:18 AM, Rick C wrote:
I think your fears of the paraffin cracking are overstated. It is easy enough to test without worrying about winter or potting another transformer. Just take a brick of wax and melt it in a container. Stick it in the freezer. That will be pretty cold, I think mine is near 0°F. If it's going to crack that should do it. If you want, cycle it every day by taking it out and putting it back in.

Excellent idea and costs nothing to do since I still have the paraffin.

Did you have any other concerns with using wax?

I was concerned about possible heating of the transformers within the
wax and whether or not melting would occur. Not that I would run the
device for long, maybe up to a min or two.

BTW, there are other waxes than paraffin. You can use a higher melting temperature wax which are often more flexible.

One of the last things I came across before going with the oil once
again was "machinable wax" which evidently used a combination of
paraffin and either HDPE or LDPE container material melted into it. I
was contemplating trying to make some, but it looks like the PE would
have had to been melted in something other than a double boiler. It did
offer a higher melting point though than standard paraffin. The ratio
appeared to be 4:1 wax: PE. That would have meant 0.5 lbs of the PE for
my new housing which, to me, seemed like a lot of cut up containers!

Then there was the paraffin mixed with EVA glue, but I was unable to
find a published proper mix ratio for that to work. I finally came
across a candle making site that suggested 5%, but not very convincing
for electronics.

Unfortunately, I didn't look much into other waxes other than beeswax
mixed with rosin which, as I understand it, has an even lower melting
point than just paraffin.
 
On Saturday, October 26, 2019 at 10:46:28 AM UTC-4, Jim Horton wrote:
On 10/26/19 12:33 AM, Jim Horton wrote:
Just wanted to share the demo for the spark generator in its new
housing.  The sparks you see are about 110 mm.

https://i.imgur.com/DfaPJdB.mp4

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

By the way, for the people who suggested retaining paraffin instead of
going back to mineral oil, I am actually too curious to let that go! If
I can find two HEI coils at the junk yard for cheap, I am going to
simply use an old tupperware or even dollar store container for housing,
and then use the stove and oven once again for paraffin potting. I'll
be able to easily swap out my existing container for a wax filled one
without having to build all new circuitry. So, if I hurry and pot it
before it starts getting really cold here, I'll be able to see how it
held up over winter when I check it out next summer. As I said before,
where I have the demonstrator stored isn't under the best of climate
control, so temps will range from upper 40's to high 80's depending on
time of year.

I think your fears of the paraffin cracking are overstated. It is easy enough to test without worrying about winter or potting another transformer. Just take a brick of wax and melt it in a container. Stick it in the freezer. That will be pretty cold, I think mine is near 0°F. If it's going to crack that should do it. If you want, cycle it every day by taking it out and putting it back in.

Did you have any other concerns with using wax?

BTW, there are other waxes than paraffin. You can use a higher melting temperature wax which are often more flexible.

--

Rick C.

+ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
 
On Saturday, October 26, 2019 at 11:36:13 AM UTC-4, Jim Horton wrote:
On 10/26/19 11:18 AM, Rick C wrote:


I think your fears of the paraffin cracking are overstated. It is easy enough to test without worrying about winter or potting another transformer. Just take a brick of wax and melt it in a container. Stick it in the freezer. That will be pretty cold, I think mine is near 0°F. If it's going to crack that should do it. If you want, cycle it every day by taking it out and putting it back in.

Excellent idea and costs nothing to do since I still have the paraffin.


Did you have any other concerns with using wax?


I was concerned about possible heating of the transformers within the
wax and whether or not melting would occur. Not that I would run the
device for long, maybe up to a min or two.


BTW, there are other waxes than paraffin. You can use a higher melting temperature wax which are often more flexible.

One of the last things I came across before going with the oil once
again was "machinable wax" which evidently used a combination of
paraffin and either HDPE or LDPE container material melted into it. I
was contemplating trying to make some, but it looks like the PE would
have had to been melted in something other than a double boiler. It did
offer a higher melting point though than standard paraffin. The ratio
appeared to be 4:1 wax: PE. That would have meant 0.5 lbs of the PE for
my new housing which, to me, seemed like a lot of cut up containers!

By containers, you mean milk bottles? Why would you buy containers? I don't know if recycling centers will let you remove anything, but people use plastic milk bottles by the ton. I have a collection used to make scoops and funnels, etc. Funnels are like tape measures. It doesn't matter how many you have, you can never find one when you need it. For dry stuff I make them from card stock.


Then there was the paraffin mixed with EVA glue, but I was unable to
find a published proper mix ratio for that to work. I finally came
across a candle making site that suggested 5%, but not very convincing
for electronics.

Unfortunately, I didn't look much into other waxes other than beeswax
mixed with rosin which, as I understand it, has an even lower melting
point than just paraffin.

I think the mixture thing is not the way to go. Paraffin has melting points between 100°F and 160°F because it is a mixture of alkanes with carbon counts between 20 and 40. More of the longer chains and the melting point goes up. Use alkanes with even more carbons and the melting point continues to increase and they become more pliable. Look for Microcrystalline wax

https://www.amazon.com/JACQUARD-Crystaline-Jacquard-Products-Off-White/dp/B003I7W2VW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Microcrystalline+wax&qid=1572106703&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-5

This one is 170°F

--

Rick C.

-- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
-- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
 
On 10/26/19 12:31 PM, Rick C wrote:
I think the mixture thing is not the way to go. Paraffin has melting points between 100°F and 160°F because it is a mixture of alkanes with carbon counts between 20 and 40. More of the longer chains and the melting point goes up. Use alkanes with even more carbons and the melting point continues to increase and they become more pliable. Look for Microcrystalline wax

https://www.amazon.com/JACQUARD-Crystaline-Jacquard-Products-Off-White/dp/B003I7W2VW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Microcrystalline+wax&qid=1572106703&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-5

This one is 170°F

Only possible issue I see using different higher melting point wax is
whether or not it will melt in a double boiler, plus will the components
it is poured on/ into be able to take it? For now, I'm going to rest at
the mineral oil refilling and retain all the recycled paraffin from my
attempt a week ago. I've discovered that the reason for the oil leaks
from the former was because I filled it too high, so during hot periods
oil seeped out from the top. I'm sure junction box tops were never
meant to stop oil. I think my new one will probably leak too at some
point from the top, but I'm using the larger older junction box as
containment plus a resized absorbent pad underneath the smaller one for
easy changing should it ever be needed in the future.

What would have been neat, and I never thought about it during the
rehousing, was cutting out a section of one of the sides of the PVC
junction box and replacing that section was plexiglass or lexan, so I,
or whoever I am demonstrating the device to, can see where everything
originates, but I thought that might simply be opening a can of worms
(plexiglass to PVC sealing issues and such), so abandoned the idea.

I'll keep an eye out at the local junk yard for some more HEI coils. If
I can snag a pair cheap, I'll pot in paraffin and see how it holds up
over time. Almost all of the circuitry is contained in the separate
driver/ controller box, so really all I have to do is swap out the
coils.
 
On Sunday, 3 November 2019 18:53:19 UTC, Winfield Hill wrote:
Jim Horton wrote...

Interesting that there weren't more responses.

I'm a big user of eBay and AliExpress, and purchase lots of
high-current and high-voltage stuff, to supplement my pile
of unusual parts, but I'd not come across the items you found.

Well, I had some trouble with the 3055's. Too much arcing
at tripler output would burn them out quickly ...

MOSFETs are more robust than BJTs, in that they can handle
excess drain voltages, and simply go into a safe avalanche,hur chat
the same as a zener diode (however the breakdown comes with
ns response times, so the wiring must be low inductance).
MOSFET gates are vulnerable, but if they're driven with a
serious gate-driver IC, with low-inductance wiring, they're
quite robust. The issue is high RF-frequency during arcing.

Another nice vintage high voltage transistor is the BU105.
I used to salvage them from the junk piles at the back of
television repair shops in the days when such places existed.

They generated useful output at around 1MHz.

John
 
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
  Well, i scrubbed a hard drive and put XP SP3 from a "composite" disk
(SP2 combined with SP3 upgrade).
  Said disk requires no product key.

  EXACT SAME PROBLEMS!

  So,,,,i scrub HD again and will start with a genuine XP SP2 and
apply the SP3 upgrade that Microsoft posted on the web ages ago
(GRTMUPD_EN).

  Question:
  How can this new HD, set as Primary Slave HD screw up the boot XP
functionality?
  Search now non-functional; not even Everything works.

  Thanks.

"Primary Slave"

I think I hear someone telling me they are violating
the "Prime Rule" of OS installation processes.

Namely:

   Only the disk receiving the install OS
   should be installed and cabled up to the
   motherboard, until the OS install is finished.

   All "extra" disks should be disconnected.

This prevents boot managers from ending up on the
wrong disk and so on.

Then, after the OS installation is finished, use
Disk Management to label the C: drive as "MyNewXP"
or similar.

Then, when you have three disk drives in the computer
and you boot the wrong one, you will see "C: MyOldOS"
instead of "C: MyNewXP" when using Disk Management.

You have to adjust the BIOS boot order, to select
the correct disk drive on every boot. That can be
done after the WinXP install is finished too.

But by having *only* the single hard drive present
in the machine, it makes it easier to predict an outcome.

   Paul
I wound up doing the above method, have an WinXP NEW working rather fine.
A few "minor" details, tho..

1) Starting with standard XP SP2 install and NOTHING added, and
following that Windows ShellBag Forensics in Depth article page 3, i
_still_ get BagsMRU with zero subkeys, so "figure 2" is not possible.
a) I note, page 4 the interesting comment about view preferences.
Absolutely ZERO information as to exactly how this is done, what coding
is used for different view, etc.
b) "NodeSlot registry value 8"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as i
am concerned.
c) "'Bags\8' registry key"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as i am
concerned.
d) again, an interesting comment about view preferences. ZERO info
except that it exists.
Now you know why i have such a dim view of that article, as it does
not show reality.

2) In control panel, Folder Options, View tab: "Apply to Folders" STILL
greyed out.
Upgrading to SP3 and allowing umpteen updates (yes, WinXP) made zero
difference.
All folder views start in icon mode, BUT a manual change on a given
folder "sticks".
AT LAST!

Thanks.
 
Robert Baer wrote:
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
Well, i scrubbed a hard drive and put XP SP3 from a "composite"
disk (SP2 combined with SP3 upgrade).
Said disk requires no product key.

EXACT SAME PROBLEMS!

So,,,,i scrub HD again and will start with a genuine XP SP2 and
apply the SP3 upgrade that Microsoft posted on the web ages ago
(GRTMUPD_EN).

Question:
How can this new HD, set as Primary Slave HD screw up the boot XP
functionality?
Search now non-functional; not even Everything works.

Thanks.

"Primary Slave"

I think I hear someone telling me they are violating
the "Prime Rule" of OS installation processes.

Namely:

Only the disk receiving the install OS
should be installed and cabled up to the
motherboard, until the OS install is finished.

All "extra" disks should be disconnected.

This prevents boot managers from ending up on the
wrong disk and so on.

Then, after the OS installation is finished, use
Disk Management to label the C: drive as "MyNewXP"
or similar.

Then, when you have three disk drives in the computer
and you boot the wrong one, you will see "C: MyOldOS"
instead of "C: MyNewXP" when using Disk Management.

You have to adjust the BIOS boot order, to select
the correct disk drive on every boot. That can be
done after the WinXP install is finished too.

But by having *only* the single hard drive present
in the machine, it makes it easier to predict an outcome.

Paul
I wound up doing the above method, have an WinXP NEW working rather fine.
A few "minor" details, tho..

1) Starting with standard XP SP2 install and NOTHING added, and
following that Windows ShellBag Forensics in Depth article page 3, i
_still_ get BagsMRU with zero subkeys, so "figure 2" is not possible.
a) I note, page 4 the interesting comment about view preferences.
Absolutely ZERO information as to exactly how this is done, what coding
is used for different view, etc.
b) "NodeSlot registry value 8"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as i
am concerned.
c) "'Bags\8' registry key"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as i am
concerned.
d) again, an interesting comment about view preferences. ZERO info
except that it exists.
Now you know why i have such a dim view of that article, as it does
not show reality.

2) In control panel, Folder Options, View tab: "Apply to Folders" STILL
greyed out.
Upgrading to SP3 and allowing umpteen updates (yes, WinXP) made zero
difference.
All folder views start in icon mode, BUT a manual change on a given
folder "sticks".
AT LAST!

Thanks.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shell_bags_view.html

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shellbagsview.zip

There is a column on the right, which claims to point to
the registry where the slot is stored.

Using regscanner, I can search for the unicode string
corresponding to the pathname I see in the first tool.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/regscanner.zip

Here is an example, and my trip to Regedit to look at it,
is the bottom part of the picture.

https://i.postimg.cc/4y1TjBYH/nirsoft-tools.gif

Paul
 
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
  Well, i scrubbed a hard drive and put XP SP3 from a "composite"
disk (SP2 combined with SP3 upgrade).
  Said disk requires no product key.

  EXACT SAME PROBLEMS!

  So,,,,i scrub HD again and will start with a genuine XP SP2 and
apply the SP3 upgrade that Microsoft posted on the web ages ago
(GRTMUPD_EN).

  Question:
  How can this new HD, set as Primary Slave HD screw up the boot XP
functionality?
  Search now non-functional; not even Everything works.

  Thanks.

"Primary Slave"

I think I hear someone telling me they are violating
the "Prime Rule" of OS installation processes.

Namely:

    Only the disk receiving the install OS
    should be installed and cabled up to the
    motherboard, until the OS install is finished.

    All "extra" disks should be disconnected.

This prevents boot managers from ending up on the
wrong disk and so on.

Then, after the OS installation is finished, use
Disk Management to label the C: drive as "MyNewXP"
or similar.

Then, when you have three disk drives in the computer
and you boot the wrong one, you will see "C: MyOldOS"
instead of "C: MyNewXP" when using Disk Management.

You have to adjust the BIOS boot order, to select
the correct disk drive on every boot. That can be
done after the WinXP install is finished too.

But by having *only* the single hard drive present
in the machine, it makes it easier to predict an outcome.

    Paul
  I wound up doing the above method, have an WinXP NEW working rather
fine.
  A few "minor" details, tho..

1) Starting with standard XP SP2 install and NOTHING added, and
following that Windows ShellBag Forensics in Depth article page 3, i
_still_ get BagsMRU with zero subkeys, so "figure 2" is not possible.
 a) I note, page 4 the interesting comment about view preferences.
Absolutely ZERO information as to exactly how this is done, what
coding is used for different view, etc.
 b) "NodeSlot registry value 8"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as
i am concerned.
 c) "'Bags\8' registry key"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as i am
concerned.
 d) again, an interesting comment about view preferences. ZERO info
except that it exists.
  Now you know why i have such a dim view of that article, as it does
not show reality.

2) In control panel, Folder Options, View tab: "Apply to Folders"
STILL greyed out.
  Upgrading to SP3 and allowing umpteen updates (yes, WinXP) made zero
difference.
  All folder views start in icon mode, BUT a manual change on a given
folder "sticks".
  AT LAST!

  Thanks.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shell_bags_view.html

    https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shellbagsview.zip

There is a column on the right, which claims to point to
the registry where the slot is stored.

Using regscanner, I can search for the unicode string
corresponding to the pathname I see in the first tool.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/regscanner.zip

Here is an example, and my trip to Regedit to look at it,
is the bottom part of the picture.

https://i.postimg.cc/4y1TjBYH/nirsoft-tools.gif

   Paul
Grumble squared..
My original XP hard drive, where i had all of those folder view
problems got a boot problem, and the XP CD's FIXBOOT royally screwed it.
So the newly XP drive is all i have now.

It paid to install original SP2 and then upgrade to SP3.
All folder views behave on an individual basis.

But i lost a number of programs because that original HD had them;
lost some data as well.
Putting data,etc on the one terror-byte HD that was used for recovery
of messed Oyen Digital U32 Shadow drive.

You have no idea as to how many duplicates of a file are hiding on a
hard drive.
All that recovery stuff ate almost half of the terror-byte drive.

Thanks.
 
Robert Baer wrote:
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
Well, i scrubbed a hard drive and put XP SP3 from a "composite"
disk (SP2 combined with SP3 upgrade).
Said disk requires no product key.

EXACT SAME PROBLEMS!

So,,,,i scrub HD again and will start with a genuine XP SP2 and
apply the SP3 upgrade that Microsoft posted on the web ages ago
(GRTMUPD_EN).

Question:
How can this new HD, set as Primary Slave HD screw up the boot XP
functionality?
Search now non-functional; not even Everything works.

Thanks.

"Primary Slave"

I think I hear someone telling me they are violating
the "Prime Rule" of OS installation processes.

Namely:

Only the disk receiving the install OS
should be installed and cabled up to the
motherboard, until the OS install is finished.

All "extra" disks should be disconnected.

This prevents boot managers from ending up on the
wrong disk and so on.

Then, after the OS installation is finished, use
Disk Management to label the C: drive as "MyNewXP"
or similar.

Then, when you have three disk drives in the computer
and you boot the wrong one, you will see "C: MyOldOS"
instead of "C: MyNewXP" when using Disk Management.

You have to adjust the BIOS boot order, to select
the correct disk drive on every boot. That can be
done after the WinXP install is finished too.

But by having *only* the single hard drive present
in the machine, it makes it easier to predict an outcome.

Paul
I wound up doing the above method, have an WinXP NEW working rather
fine.
A few "minor" details, tho..

1) Starting with standard XP SP2 install and NOTHING added, and
following that Windows ShellBag Forensics in Depth article page 3, i
_still_ get BagsMRU with zero subkeys, so "figure 2" is not possible.
a) I note, page 4 the interesting comment about view preferences.
Absolutely ZERO information as to exactly how this is done, what
coding is used for different view, etc.
b) "NodeSlot registry value 8"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as
i am concerned.
c) "'Bags\8' registry key"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as i
am concerned.
d) again, an interesting comment about view preferences. ZERO info
except that it exists.
Now you know why i have such a dim view of that article, as it does
not show reality.

2) In control panel, Folder Options, View tab: "Apply to Folders"
STILL greyed out.
Upgrading to SP3 and allowing umpteen updates (yes, WinXP) made
zero difference.
All folder views start in icon mode, BUT a manual change on a given
folder "sticks".
AT LAST!

Thanks.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shell_bags_view.html

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shellbagsview.zip

There is a column on the right, which claims to point to
the registry where the slot is stored.

Using regscanner, I can search for the unicode string
corresponding to the pathname I see in the first tool.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/regscanner.zip

Here is an example, and my trip to Regedit to look at it,
is the bottom part of the picture.

https://i.postimg.cc/4y1TjBYH/nirsoft-tools.gif

Paul
Grumble squared..
My original XP hard drive, where i had all of those folder view
problems got a boot problem, and the XP CD's FIXBOOT royally screwed it.
So the newly XP drive is all i have now.

It paid to install original SP2 and then upgrade to SP3.
All folder views behave on an individual basis.

But i lost a number of programs because that original HD had them;
lost some data as well.
Putting data,etc on the one terror-byte HD that was used for recovery
of messed Oyen Digital U32 Shadow drive.

You have no idea as to how many duplicates of a file are hiding on a
hard drive.
All that recovery stuff ate almost half of the terror-byte drive.

Thanks.

Did you attempt to use any recovery software ?

This is an example of an older one. The program was written by an individual,
but eventually sold off to some other company (PCInspector???). A person
years ago in the WinXP group, used this on an NTFS drive to get some
files back. That was back when you could get the file with the installer in it.

https://web.archive.org/web/20120602021604/http://www.pricelesswarehome.org/WoundedMoon/win32/driverescue19d.html

# The download right now, seems to be broken!

https://web.archive.org/web/20120602021604/http://www.pricelesswarehome.org/WoundedMoon/files/driverescue19d.zip

I've never had a chance to test it.

There are other programs for $39.95 you could run over the
broken drive and try and get the files back.

Running "fixboot", updates the PBR (partition boot record) which
should be two or three sectors of stuff, after the NTFS header
sector (the first sector of the partition).

It would seem that perhaps you've wiped out the file system header,
the one with the "NTFS" string in it.

I don't know what kind of linkages go from that sector, to elsewhere
in the file system, and whether there's a pointer to the $MFT
(master file table) in there somewhere.

But a recovery program should have the ability to help,
at a guess. This is an example of one picked at random.

Some of those programs, how they work is in trial mode,
they "show a list of files" but don't give you any files
back. The list of files is proof they "know what they're doing".
When you pay the money for the product, is when you find out
whether the program actually works. It's just more
"Internet gambling".

Paul
 
Robert Baer wrote:
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
Paul wrote:
Robert Baer wrote:
  Well, i scrubbed a hard drive and put XP SP3 from a "composite"
disk (SP2 combined with SP3 upgrade).
  Said disk requires no product key.

  EXACT SAME PROBLEMS!

  So,,,,i scrub HD again and will start with a genuine XP SP2 and
apply the SP3 upgrade that Microsoft posted on the web ages ago
(GRTMUPD_EN).

  Question:
  How can this new HD, set as Primary Slave HD screw up the boot XP
functionality?
  Search now non-functional; not even Everything works.

  Thanks.

"Primary Slave"

I think I hear someone telling me they are violating
the "Prime Rule" of OS installation processes.

Namely:

    Only the disk receiving the install OS
    should be installed and cabled up to the
    motherboard, until the OS install is finished.

    All "extra" disks should be disconnected.

This prevents boot managers from ending up on the
wrong disk and so on.

Then, after the OS installation is finished, use
Disk Management to label the C: drive as "MyNewXP"
or similar.

Then, when you have three disk drives in the computer
and you boot the wrong one, you will see "C: MyOldOS"
instead of "C: MyNewXP" when using Disk Management.

You have to adjust the BIOS boot order, to select
the correct disk drive on every boot. That can be
done after the WinXP install is finished too.

But by having *only* the single hard drive present
in the machine, it makes it easier to predict an outcome.

    Paul
  I wound up doing the above method, have an WinXP NEW working rather
fine.
  A few "minor" details, tho..

1) Starting with standard XP SP2 install and NOTHING added, and
following that Windows ShellBag Forensics in Depth article page 3, i
_still_ get BagsMRU with zero subkeys, so "figure 2" is not possible.
 a) I note, page 4 the interesting comment about view preferences.
Absolutely ZERO information as to exactly how this is done, what
coding is used for different view, etc.
 b) "NodeSlot registry value 8"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as
i am concerned.
 c) "'Bags\8' registry key"? Where? NOT SHOWN; spurious as far as i
am concerned.
 d) again, an interesting comment about view preferences. ZERO info
except that it exists.
  Now you know why i have such a dim view of that article, as it does
not show reality.

2) In control panel, Folder Options, View tab: "Apply to Folders"
STILL greyed out.
  Upgrading to SP3 and allowing umpteen updates (yes, WinXP) made
zero difference.
  All folder views start in icon mode, BUT a manual change on a given
folder "sticks".
  AT LAST!

  Thanks.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shell_bags_view.html

     https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shellbagsview.zip

There is a column on the right, which claims to point to
the registry where the slot is stored.

Using regscanner, I can search for the unicode string
corresponding to the pathname I see in the first tool.

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/regscanner.zip

Here is an example, and my trip to Regedit to look at it,
is the bottom part of the picture.

https://i.postimg.cc/4y1TjBYH/nirsoft-tools.gif

    Paul
  Grumble squared..
  My original XP hard drive, where i had all of those folder view
problems got a boot problem, and the XP CD's FIXBOOT royally screwed it.
  So the newly XP drive is all i have now.
* That original XP hard drive had no boot record (sector 0) and no MBR
(sector 63).
I used HxD to copy those from the new working XP drive, writing to
the old.
So that old drive functionality and contents is back to exactly where
it was.

Thanks.

  It paid to install original SP2 and then upgrade to SP3.
  All folder views behave on an individual basis.

  But i lost a number of programs because that original HD had them;
lost some data as well.
  Putting data,etc on the one terror-byte HD that was used for recovery
of messed Oyen Digital U32 Shadow drive.

  You have no idea as to how many duplicates of a file are hiding on a
hard drive.
  All that recovery stuff ate almost half of the terror-byte drive.

  Thanks.
 
TheExperimenter wrote:

-------------------------

( snip total drivel )


This dopey dude is dangerously insane.

Too clueless to have any idea how clueless he is.



...... Phil
 

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