Does anyone know a good LED pocket flashlight with decent br

[Siskuwihane]

On Jun 12, 2:11 pm, "jf...@my-deja.com" <jf...@my-deja.com> wrote:

On Jun 12, 7:44 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" <dishborea...@yahoo.com> wrote:> Will it do a serious job of illuminating something from 100 feet away, maybe
on a rainy night?

As far as I know, none of the multi-LED flashlights will thow a
focussed beam.  I have seen some with a single-LED rated at 1-watt
(common) or 3-watts (rare), and you can kind of focus those.

I have a 3 watt Luxeon, it's a Ray-O-Vac Sportsman Extreme, cost
around $24. It's actually a re-branded
Nuwai X-3. Available at Wal-Mart, but they sell out extremely fast (at
least around here).

http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/nuwai_x-3.htm

Specs:

• Ultra bright 3 watt Luxeon LED flashlight - up to 50x brighter than
standard LED's
• DC/DC regulated circuitry provides maximum light output throughout
the life of the battery
• Twist bottom for constant beam - press button for momentary light
• Adjustable beam
• Handy clip and wrist strap
• Aircraft grade aluminum
• Runs on 2 AA alkaline batteries (included)
• Water resistant

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Jun 14, 4:17 pm, PaPaPeng <PaPaP...@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 11:14:08 -0700 (PDT), b

reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On 14 jun, 19:12, PaPaPeng <PaPaP...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Now back to the original problem of loss of second tier cable channels
that is blamed on the channel tuner.

did you try the menu idea I mentioned before? what happened?
B.

Sorry, missed that.  I have only a generic remote without that option.
My house was broken into and the crooks took my stereo, etc. consoles
the TV being too big to carry.

I forgot about the controls hidden behind the front panel.  But now
that I can't even get the TV set to fire up I won't be able to check
out the menu options.

As I remember, there is a high-voltage shutdown in those sets that
probably takes about 5 seconds from turn-on to turn off. If the OP
hears or feels a static sound just before the shutoff click, it is
probably an overvoltage problem.

It could also be a failure of the horizontal stage to turn on, the
initial power to the relay depends on the horizontal output stage to
fire up, and one of the turns on the transformer is connected to a
rectifier which then provides a holding voltage to the power relay to
keep it turned on. Without an oscilloscope, it is impossible to be
sure which of these scenarios is the case.

If the OP can feel the hairs on his arm react when the set is first
turned on and his arm is near the face of the CRT, there is probably
high voilatage being developed and it is an overvoltage shutdown. If
he doesn't feel any static build-up, then it is probably lack of
power to the holding relay that is the problem.

Bob Hofmann

 

[Ayushi Mehra]

Epson GT30000Scanner colour Flatbed scanner offers more quality and
features than nearly any other consumer-level scanner on the market.
It provides a regular use resolution of 600x1200 dpi and an optical
resolution of 600 x 1,200 dpi (9,600 x 9,600 interpolated). This
scanner can scan papers of maximum size 297x420 mm and has 36-bit
color depth. It is designed for high-volume office use, and can handle
large volume scanning for effective document management with full
colour capabilities. It comes with 100-page auto-document feeder,
inspiring 30 pages per minute, optional networking and duplex scanning

To buy this Epson GT30000Scanner

Please visit http://www.naaptol.com/buy-online/WO-best-deals-shopping-W1697O/computers_-_peripherals/scanners/epson__gt30000.html

 

[Ron(UK)]

N_Cook wrote:

Someone wanting a large mixer amp repairing, not seen yet , as left the
owners do do a bit more exploration, as on phone prompting, the problem only
occurs with a feed from a MAC based system, not when instrument feeds only.

Reported as a whirring , booming noise, but not mains hum, at bass
frequencies but noticeable at all levels
Told them to borrow someone elses pc, or transfer to CD/tape etc to rule in
or out , firstly. Assuming a perfectly good pc system and a properly working
mixer/pa, does this sort of intrusion sound familiar to those familiar with
PC feeds, perhaps beats between SMPS oscillator and mains, badly mismatched
impedances on feed hookup, ground loop/lift problem, just a few thoughts.

Yes, it`s power supply noise from the pc, feeding the signal via a
decent transformered di box sometimes works - it`s often a case of suck
it and see.

Ron(UK)

 

bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

I have 60/40, will that work OK though? This computer is a 733Mhz
processor so it's not modern.

The age of the processor doesn't matter. What does matter is the fact that
it is much easier to make a good solder joint if you use good solder and
much easier to make a bad one if you use bad solder.

Apparently all we can purchase now is bad solder (the EU banned lead
in solder in 2006).

Talk about timing, this /. article came out yesterday

http://ask.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=08/06/15/1732216
"Lead is added to solder as it melts at low temperature, but also, it
prevents the solder from growing 'whiskers' — crystalline limbs of
metal. The effect of whiskers on soldered equipment would include
random short-circuits and strange RF-effects. Whiskers can grow fairly
quickly and become quite long."

I've got a bunch of old solder, I'm going to take much better care of
it now. no more using it to balance my 2 meter gliders

--

Police: Officer kills man who beat child to death
(I'm sure the officer could use all the public support he could get)
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25179632/

 

thanks in advance

 

[jakdedert]

Franc Zabkar wrote:

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 12:04:02 -0500, jakdedert
jakdedert@bellsouth.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Bought from the 'E' place for cheap. Reported symptom: video comes on
and fades out. Figured it was high ESR smps caps.

Actual symptom: backlight comes on, image consist of random horizontal
lines, which eventually--after some intermittent vertical
scrolling--settle into a very nice image. Takes like two minutes to
warm up. Shutting the monitor down for some unknown time starts the
process all over again. Continuous viewing yields a stable image with
good resolution, brightness and linearity. Shutting down for short
periods is not problematic.

There is only one HV (100 @ 400v) cap in the ps. ESR is .46, which I
assume is within tolerance. Other caps in the ps also seem fine.

This presents so like a classic cap issue (needs to warm up), that I'm
going to next pull the video board and check caps there...possibly get
some freeze spray and see if I can duplicate symptoms that way.

Reality check: any problem with the above procedure, or experience with
this particular monitor? Any suggestions as to where to go if the above
doesn't produce a dx and fix?

Thanks as always,

jak

FWIW, that monitor came with a 3-year warranty.

If that is not an option, then I'd be hooking up your scope to the
horizontal and vertical sync inputs and following them through. It may
help if you told us which chips are used, eg Genesis Microchip.

Have you considered that the video source may be just outside the LCD
monitor's range? I sometimes find that a 75Hz refresh rate is right at
the limit before the monitor blacks out. Try a safe 60Hz refresh rate.

What about the OSD? Is it stable? Pull the RGB cable and watch the "No
Signal" OSD window, or whatever your monitor reports.

- Franc Zabkar

Thanks Frank, for your attention.

It contains a (socketed) Winbond W78E56P-40. I pulled up the data sheet
for that, but it's beyond my experience to decipher how this generic
processor is employed in the circuit. The other large scale (100 or so
leads) chip has a logo that looks like a backward capital 'N' with
numbers MST9111. Google drew a blank on that one.

Changing video resolution makes no difference (refresh was initially 60
Hz anyway). The OSD, when accessed while 'in symptoms', is just a blue
smear up the entire height of the display. Any video input to the
display is likewise; all columns and no rows. Each column of pixels is
uniform in color from top to bottom, although that color changes with
the video content. Occasionally horizontal bands will appear, either a
lighter or darker shade...sometimes only a pixel wide, other times wider.

(I wonder if I could record and post a short video somewhere?)

For the last day or so, I've not been able to get any sort of legible
display. I hooked it up to a spare computer, on screensaver, next to my
desk, hoping to catch it actually working...turn it on occasionally for
short periods.

You might be able to tell that I'm not too familiar with the innards of
lcd displays <g>. This board appears to have several layers, making
visual tracing of the circuitry difficult, although I should be able to
trace continuity from the input pins to the various sm devices.

I'm afraid I'll be almost totally occupied with other business for the
rest of the week; but I'll eagerly check back here for any insight into
this....

Thanks again,

jak

 

[Ron(UK)]

N_Cook wrote:

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:8JGdnevG864uGcvVnZ2dnUVZ8tbinZ2d@bt.com...
N_Cook wrote:
Someone wanting a large mixer amp repairing, not seen yet , as left the
owners do do a bit more exploration, as on phone prompting, the problem
only
occurs with a feed from a MAC based system, not when instrument feeds
only.
Reported as a whirring , booming noise, but not mains hum, at bass
frequencies but noticeable at all levels
Told them to borrow someone elses pc, or transfer to CD/tape etc to rule
in
or out , firstly. Assuming a perfectly good pc system and a properly
working
mixer/pa, does this sort of intrusion sound familiar to those familiar
with
PC feeds, perhaps beats between SMPS oscillator and mains, badly
mismatched
impedances on feed hookup, ground loop/lift problem, just a few
thoughts.
Yes, it`s power supply noise from the pc, feeding the signal via a
decent transformered di box sometimes works - it`s often a case of suck
it and see.

Ron(UK)

Anyone know what the bare minimum is for trying out just one channel
ground isolation via a transformer, 1:1 pulse transformer perhaps ?. Not
sure I
could lay my hands on one of those mu-metal cased audio single/balanced
transformers and I seem to remember they are quite expensive.

http://www.behringer.com/DI400P/index.cfm?lang=ENG

or if you want to build some yourself,

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=46791&criteria=audio%20transformers&doy=17m6

Ron

 

[Timelord]

"me" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:O6mdnZYKW4sd7MvVRVn_vwA@giganews.com...

Sam Goldwasser wrote:


I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

A Stockholder, and Merchant, Loses Confidence in eBay
http://seekingalpha.com/article/81353-a-stockholder-and-merchant-loses-confidence-in-ebay
(Small eBay seller had his account (with over 400 positive feedbacks)
suspended because of one negative feedback.)

A new test case of the DMCA--this time over an eBay auction
http://news.cnet.com/8301-10787_3-9949976-60.html
(Totally bogus accusation against eBay seller -- eBay suspends him.)

You know Me,

Changing mailing addresses does not help.
Just what is it you bought from Ebay that caused all of this anyway???
--
Thanks,
Timelord
Charlie's Place BBS, Newsgroups - Games - Files - Gifs
--- Synchronet 3.14a-Win32 NewsLink 2.03
Charlie's Place BBS - http://cpbbs.synchro.net:8080 - telnet://cpbbs.synchro.net.16:8023 - ftp://cpbbs.synchro.net:8021/00index.html

 

[Caesar Valenti]

bigjcw1023@gmail.com wrote:

How would I go about testing a regulated power supply. 5-20vdc 2amp
an old lafayete model.

How about providing a less open-ended question. Some details would be

nice. Otherwise you may get answers like:
To test the dimensions, use a ruler.
To test the weight, use a scale.
To test the voltage, use a voltmeter.

I'm impressed that you got two good answers already!

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:53:01 -0700 (PDT), Ancient_Hacker
<grg2@comcast.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Any hints where could find a list of GPIB commands for a Goodwill PPS
power supply?
The info seems rather hard to find.

PPS/PPT-series User Manual (pdf):
http://www.goodwill.com.tw/html/en/DownloadFile.asp?sn=60&uid=&lv=

LabView Driver for PPS-3635G:
http://www.goodwill.com.tw/html/en/DownloadFile.asp?sn=95&uid=&lv=

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

PlainBill <PlainBill47@yahoo.com> wrote:

The advice you have received on practicing soldering is important.
However, if the socket has been damaged you are fighting a loosing
battle. Do a search on eBay. I had a similar problem with a Dell
notebook, and was able to find a replacement socket for under $10.00
delivered. It was well worth the investment.

just unsolder one from an old mother board, it's what I had to do
once.
--

Fail
http://failblog.org/2008/06/10/backwards-b-fail/

 

[Blip]

On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:53:02 -0700, PlainBill <PlainBill47@yahoo.com>
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 22:17:57 -0400, Blip <blip@krumpli.com> wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 18:17:53 -0700, PlainBill <PlainBill47@yahoo.com
wrote:

I'm looking for advice on a recurring problem with our Mutsibishi
WD-65731. It was purchased about 18 months ago and had been very
reliable until earlier this year. At that time we started seeing the
'The TV will shut down in a few seconds. Make sure the air flow is
not blocked...' message. A little research indicated the problem was
an incorrect connector for a thermistor and was covered even though
the warranty had expired. A phone call brought a technician out
within hours and the set was repaired.

About two weeks later another problem cropped up, and I have found
only one reference to a similar problem. No resolution was given.

After the set has been on for an hour or more the brightness will
start flickering, followed a few minutes later by the colors dropping
out. If I had to describe the problem, I would say that the controller
for the DLP chip was not getting synchronization information from the
color wheel. Within 10 minutes I will have a picture composed of
various shades of pale green. I have verified that it is not the
program source; it even shows up on the setup menus.

Other points: It is more likely to occur in the afternoon. This led
me to suspect it is temperature related. I moved the TV away from the
wall, checked there was no obstruction to the air flow and that the
fans appeared to be running. Saturday I turned it on at about 1:00
PM, it was still working perfectly when I shut it off at 8:00PM. The
problem did not reoccur Sunday or Monday. Today it occurred within an
hour of the TV being turned on.

Now for the questions. Has anyone had this problem?
Does anyone here have any experience with Mitsubishi DLP sets?
Is there an online forum that would be more likely to have such a
person?
Taking a pessimistic approach, it is likely to be a problem with the
light engine. Is anyone willing to guess how much it will cost to
replace it?

Thanks,

PlainBill

Bill --

Many people have had this problem - so many infact -- that Mitsu sent
out a note that showed distributors how to fix this & extended the
warranty. The problem is that a little, badly designed connector near
the back of the set by the lightsource, wiggle loose randonly &
results in the screen message you see.

This does not normally get better by itself.

The simple fix is to open up the back of the set, pull out the
lightsource and its cage, and then clip the connector out of the
circuit, soldering in a couple of 4" long spacer wires.

This is easy to do in a 1/2 hour; otherwise you can try to get someone
to come in & fix it.

Go to these forums:
http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7596_102-0.html?forumID=60&threadID=233474&messageID=2412870

and read through the > 250 entries there. You'll get the benefit of
many other users trials & tribs w/ these sets.

Best, Tom
Tom,
Thank you for trying to help. However, that is old information.
According to the tech who REPAIRED my TV, the vendor who supplied the
thermistor assembly had used a connector designed for solid wire which
did not properly crimp to stranded wire. Mitsubishi has issued a
replacement part with the correct connector. Soldering is no longer
the appropriate solution.

I no longer get the air flow message, the TV does not spontaneously
shut down, all answers relating to the air flow thermistor are
incorrect. I only mentioned the old problem so nobody would propose
the wrong solution. I'm sorry I misled anyone.

Currently I have a new problem. The set is displaying incorrect
colors. Rather than direct anyone to the earlier posting, it is
reprodued here.

After the set has been on for an hour or more the color intensity will
start flickering, followed a few minutes later by the colors dropping
out. If I had to describe the problem, I would say that the controller
for the DLP chip was not getting synchronization information from the
color wheel. Within 10 minutes I will have a picture composed of
various shades of pale green. I have verified that it is not the
program source; it even shows up on the setup menus.

Other points: It is more likely to occur in the afternoon. This led
me to suspect it is temperature related. I moved the TV away from the
wall, checked there was no obstruction to the air flow and that the
fans appeared to be running. Saturday I turned it on at about 1:00
PM, it was still working perfectly when I shut it off at 8:00PM. The
problem did not reoccur Sunday or Monday. Today it occurred within an
hour of the TV being turned on.

Now for the questions. Has anyone seen this problem?
Does anyone here have any experience with Mitsubishi DLP sets?
Is there an online forum that would be more likely to have such a
person?
Taking a pessimistic approach, it is likely to be a problem with the
light engine. Is anyone willing to guess how much it will cost to
replace it?

Thanks,

PlainBill

I have not seen that problem (yet). The most dense source of Mitsu DLP
problems and solutions that I've run across is the cnet forum
referenced above. I'd post this message there.

Best, Tom

 

[Timelord]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wy754i73r.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu...

With literally millions of sellers and buyers, it's hard to keep everyone
honest. They are so obcessed with security that everyone is guilty until
proven
innocent, and then there is no explanation. And the entire issue of
changes
to the feedback system and of cloaking user IDs would seem to be counter-
productive to anyone outside the system.

Perhaps this is just a matter of eBay having grown so big so fast, but it
also seems to be an issue of being unwilling to put the effort and expense
into developing proper customer service. Just because they are an on-line
company (as their blurb puts it) is no excuse not to have a means of
direct
customer contact via phone. Businesses can't afford to wait 24 or 48
hours
to get a response via email, and then another 24 or 48 hours for their
response to be read, and then not by the same person!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included
in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:

"Art" <plotsligt@hotmail.com> wrote in message
newsfidnWEQUP39BcrVnZ2dnUVZ_tninZ2d@comcast.com...


me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:O6mdnZYKW4sd7MvVRVn_vwA@giganews.com...



Sam Goldwasser wrote:


I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As
readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number
of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices.
All
in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those
nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

A Stockholder, and Merchant, Loses Confidence in eBay
http://seekingalpha.com/article/81353-a-stockholder-and-merchant-loses-confidence-in-ebay
(Small eBay seller had his account (with over 400 positive feedbacks)
suspended because of one negative feedback.)

A new test case of the DMCA--this time over an eBay auction
http://news.cnet.com/8301-10787_3-9949976-60.html
(Totally bogus accusation against eBay seller -- eBay suspends him.)

And all my friends wonder why I highly recommend not doing ANY business
via or with E-Bay!!
Seen and heard too many horror stories that eventually cost many people
a
lot of money and confidence.


On the whole, up until now, I don't honestly believe that there has been
any
real problem with e-Bay or its user community. I know many people who
have
been both buying and selling regularly on there from the start, who have
had
no problems at all. I have bought quite a lot of stuff over the years,
and I
have had one problem with a very slow shipment, and one where a shipment
never arrived at all. Probably a total of about eight quid lost.

If you were to ask anyone about their buying experiences from anywhere,
they
would all have a story or two. Just last week, I bought some new kitchen
stuff from a large UK DIY warehouse. Despite going over it with the
salesman
several times, the first item off the truck, when it was delivered, was
wrong. It took probably an hour's worth of phone calls and wasted time to
sort this out. As bad or worse than an e-Bay experience ? Not really any
different, I think ...

At the end of the day, e-Bay are a business, and they are not going to
deliberately do anything to piss their customers / users off. The
business
has evolved and grown over the years, and anyone who is in business and
understands business, will appreciate that what works when an enterprise
is
small, often doesn't when it is bigger. It becomes necessary to alter
business strategies, and there are bound to be things that people have
gotten used to, that they don't like the repalcements for. Sometimes,
what
seems like a good idea at the time, doesn't work out, so something else
has
to be tried, or even a return to the previous system is called for.
Sometimes, it's down to a change of ownership, or even management. Not
all
'managers' are actually qualified to manage. The current changes to
payment
methods, and the apparent mismanagement of exemplary users' accounts, may
just be down to some inept department head, who sooner or later, will be
'discovered' ...

In the meantime, I think it is a bit premature to be writing off what has
been - and probably still is - a fundamentally honest and successful
business, because it's currently having a few problems, or is doing
something which you (at the moment) don't agree with.

Arfa

I hate to say this Sam but you still have a lot to learn about Ebay, Most
people
still get bounced for the infighting that goes on behind the big doors at
Ebay
and not on any real complaint. I suggest that you log onto the sellers blogs
at Bay and take a look at what really goes on. Only then will you get a look
behind the door...

--
Thanks,
Timelord
Charlie's Place BBS, Newsgroups - Games - Files - Gifs
--- Synchronet 3.14a-Win32 NewsLink 2.03
Charlie's Place BBS - http://cpbbs.synchro.net:8080 - telnet://cpbbs.synchro.net.16:8023 - ftp://cpbbs.synchro.net:8021/00index.html

 

[legg]

On Sat, 21 Jun 2008 12:13:54 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote in message
news:7h0p549sf9a63p4fkld1sodla8jnpa6a9f@4ax.com...


Other RCA, like RCA29 and RCA30 with suffix letters
are like TI and A = 1.5 times basic non-suffix Vcb max
B = x2
C= x2.5

I cannot believe a 1C03 - C is 2.5 x 120V = 300 volt rating
in a circuit with rails + and -33 volt

The letter suffixes of TIPxx devices signify voltage groups,
increasing by 20V VCEO in each range, not a multiplier of a base
voltage rating. The RCAxx corresponding devices follow the same TIPxx
convention, to directly substitute for the TIP parts.

RCA1Axx, RCA1Bxx and RCA1Cxx devices, if given a dash suffix, are more
likely being graded for HFE, as voltage grading is already signified
by the xx part of the device ident. The gain group may be important in
matching quiescent bias loss of paralleled output drivers.

Grading parts for VCBO is pointless when dealing with linear audio
devices, as VCEO or VCES, SOArea and Rthjc will determine their
ruggedness in non-switching circuits driving reactive loads or single
faults. VCEO is always equal to, or less than VCBO.

The RCA house number data sheets refer to JEDEC part numbers for
device curves and test conditions.

RL

 

1PW wrote:

If we take a look down the aisles of today's hardware stores,
metric is not easy to find.

Although if you look in a supermarket, almost every container is dual
marked with metric and non-metric units on the label. Unfortunately,
voluntary metrication (i.e. metric-only labels) is illegal. One of
several laws forbidding voluntary metrication in the US is the FPLA at
http://www.ftc.gov/os/statutes/fpla/outline.html.

There is a lobby (including global companies like Proctor&Gamble who
sell soap powder) trying to get such laws changed so that they can
reduce the costs of repackaging or relabeling. For them, the laws
forbidding voluntary metrication are a technical barrier to trade.

 

[DaveT]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 07:13:58 -0700, t_gibson48 wrote:

I'm looking for a small LED flashlight to carry with me:

- Short and thin enough to fit in my pocket (around 4" length)

- Uses AA or AAA batteries (easy to find, not lithium)

- Has decent brightness (enough to read a house number)

- Lasts longer than 2 hours

- Reliable switch

- Should be able to withstand sweaty hand or occasional water splash

The closest thing I've seen is an Inova at Target, but the light is a
bit dim and the runtime is only 2 hours.

Thanks in advance -

Google 'Fenix leds' if they are available in your area. Their 2-AA Cree
LED puts a 4 cell Maglight to shame on full power. For a basic Led have a
look at the single AA Gerber Ultra, still has battery saving electronics
in it (makes batteries last longer).

--
Dave
Please note, many will not see your posts if you are posting from Google.
They are automatically Blocked!

 

[Stormin Mormon]

I've had a Teralux conversion in my mini mag for a couple years. I'm pleased
as can be with it. The light is a bit blue color, but that's livable.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


<Retief> wrote in message news:e4dj541vgm9265if3ncehiq452psd8bcva@4ax.com...

As to conversions, google "Nite Ize" or "teralux" for more information. the
Nite Ize module is $4.92 at Walmart, and is essentially as bright as the
Teralux.

Thanks for the pointer, Stormin'... The Teralux looks very
interesting...

Retief