Does anyone know a good LED pocket flashlight with decent br

[Nelson]

My wife dropped her portable radio in coke. I took it apart and
cleaned it and it seems to work fine except the LCD Display is dim and
erratic. It connects to the PCB lands by pressure only and pressing
improves the display somewhat. I don't understand how this type of
connection works. I have cleaned both parts but not much improvement.

Any advice would be appreciated. I understand that the acid from the
soft drink can dissolve connections and that the sugar will cause
shorts. However not much got in and I have cleaned everything else
pretty well. Is there some kind of contact grease that has to be
applied to the lands to make a good connection?

--
Nelson

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

 

[jfeng@my-deja.com]

On Jun 11, 9:15 pm, strabo <str...@flashlight.net> wrote:

Walgreens has the ideal LED light.

- Machined aluminum
- Cylindrical
- 3 1/2" length
- 3 "AAA" batteries in tandem
- 9 white LEDs
- ON/OFF push switch
- Weather proof
- About $5.00

I got a bunch of them.
I also got a bunch of them in October 2007, but at the SIlk Road

Market in Beijing. The nominal asking price was 10 RMB each,
batteries included, but when I got a bunch, I was able to get it down
to 8 RMB (about US$1.10) without too much haggling. I have seen them
on sale at Kragens Auto Parts and at Harbor Freight for about $3.00.

 

On Jun 12, 9:01 am, "jf...@my-deja.com" <jf...@my-deja.com> wrote:

On Jun 11, 9:15 pm, strabo <str...@flashlight.net> wrote:> Walgreens has the ideal LED light.

- Machined aluminum
- Cylindrical
- 3 1/2" length
- 3 "AAA" batteries in tandem
- 9 white LEDs
- ON/OFF push switch
- Weather proof
- About $5.00

I got a bunch of them.

I also got a bunch of them in October 2007, but at the SIlk Road
Market in Beijing.  The nominal asking price was 10 RMB each,
batteries included, but when I got a bunch, I was able to get it down
to 8 RMB (about US$1.10) without too much haggling.  I have seen them
on sale at Kragens Auto Parts and at Harbor Freight for about $3.00.

How reliable are they? I'd worry about the switch and the LEDs
crapping out. Good LEDs and machined aluminum are not cheap even in
China... I'd buy a tie for 10RMB in China, but not an LED flashlight.

 

[Meat Plow]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 18:12:22 -0500, Dallas wrote:

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
This is what I use to test my speed as you can select a locale closer to
you.
http://helpme.att.net/dsl/speedtest/

Yeah... this is why I think something is wrong, at your test site using a
Dallas test at 06:06 PM I'm getting:

Your Throughput

Download = 965.97 kbps
Upload = 622.76 kbps

Pretty sick.

Trouble is... I have tested as high as 4711 Kbps on the Speedtest.com
site which seems to indicate that everything is fine... or at least there
is nothing capping the line speed.

I think you have some noise on your DSL line causing ATM cell errors and
DSL block errors. You'll need to get AT&T back out with a test rig they
can plug in where your modem plugs in. My modem has all that stuff built
in have a look: (view with fixed width font)

Broadband Link – Detailed DSL Statistics

Collected for 1 day 12:07:11
ATM Since Reset Current 24-Hour Interval Current 15-Minute Interval Time Since
Last Event
Cell Header Errors: 4976 826 3 0:00:18
Loss of Cell Delineation: 942 178 0 0:09:10
DSL
Link Retrains: 1 0 0 1 day 12:06:54
DSL Training Errors: 0 0 0 0:00:00
Training Timeouts: 0 0 0 0:00:00
Loss of Framing Failures: 0 0 0 0:00:00
Loss of Signal Failures: 0 0 0 0:00:00
Loss of Power Failures: 0 0 0 0:00:00
Loss of Margin Failures: 0 0 0 0:00:00
Cumulative Seconds w/Errors: 4382 987 4 0:00:18
Cumulative Sec. w/Severe Errors: 52 0 0 15:39:42
Corrected Blocks: 0 0 0 0:00:00
Uncorrectable Blocks: 7946 1130 4 0:00:18
DSL Unavailable Seconds: 22 0 0 1 day 12:06:33c

General Information
DSL Line (Wire Pair): Line 1 (inner pair)
Downstream Rate Cap: 6016 kbps
Downstream Atten. at 300kHz: 56.8 dB
Uncancelled Echo: -20.7 dB Ok
VCXO Frequency Offset: -24.8 ppm Ok
Final Rx Gain: 29.9 dB Ok
Impulse Noise Comp. Tones: 0 Ok
Excessive Impulse Noise: 0 Ok
Impulse noise protection: 0.00
Delay of latency path: 0.25 ms
Training History
Downstream Upstream
Time Line Rate Max1 Max2 Max3 Mgn1 Mgn2 Attn Pwr CRCs FECs INP DLY Rate Max Mgn Attn Pwr CRCs FECs Mode Vendor State Exit Code Echo VCXO Rx Gain INC Tones
2008/06/10 22:41:49 EDT 1 3424 3428 3456 5128 6.1 6.0 54.9 18.3 3668 0 0.00 0.25 768 960 12.0 31.5 11.9 26 23 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 230/105 ERR_LOS_LIMIT -20.8 -24.9 29.9 100
2008/06/10 22:43:24 EDT 1 3264 3264 3296 5088 6.0 6.0 54.9 18.2 3900 0 0.00 0.25 768 956 12.0 31.5 11.9 22 24 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 230/105 ERR_SIG_INTERRUPT -20.9 -24.2 29.9 106
2008/06/10 22:46:02 EDT 1 3360 3364 3392 5200 6.1 6.0 54.9 18.3 4870 0 0.00 0.25 768 964 12.0 31.5 11.9 27 19 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 230/105 ERR_LOS_LIMIT -21.0 -23.9 29.9 103
2008/06/10 22:47:36 EDT 1 3264 3280 3312 5168 6.1 6.0 54.9 18.2 3676 0 0.00 0.25 768 956 12.0 31.5 11.9 6 16 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 230/105 ERR_SIG_INTERRUPT -20.7 -24.1 29.9 106
2008/06/11 00:42:28 EDT 1 3360 3380 5064 5144 6.2 5.0 54.9 18.1 4298 0 0.00 0.25 768 968 12.0 31.5 11.9 17 51 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 230/105 ERR_SIG_INTERRUPT -20.8 -24.1 29.9 91
2008/06/11 00:44:02 EDT 1 3360 3364 3368 5048 6.1 6.0 54.8 17.9 3980 0 0.00 0.25 768 960 12.0 31.5 11.9 21 18 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 230/105 ERR_SIG_INTERRUPT -20.9 -24.5 29.9 93
2008/06/11 01:35:13 EDT 1 3168 3196 5024 5128 6.2 16.0 54.8 17.8 5931 0 0.00 0.25 768 956 12.0 31.5 11.9 2 1 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 230/105 IDLE_REQUEST -20.7 -24.4 29.9 11
2008/06/12 13:47:02 EDT 1 4992 5016 5148 5148 6.2 6.0 54.8 19.2 7964 0 0.00 0.25 768 964 12.0 31.5 11.9 381 2 G.DMT Annex A Alcatel 229/103 N/A -20.7 -24.8 29.9 0
Notes:
Time Time of last update
Max1 Max. rate at start of connection
Max2 Current or final estimated max. rate
Max3 Current or final estimated max. rate without INC
Mgn1 Noise margin at start of connection
Mgn2 Current or final noise margin
DLY Delay of latency path
Bitloading


||| |||
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||||||||||||||||||||| |||||||||||||||||||||| ||||||||| | | |||
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|||||||||||||||| ||||||||||||||||||||| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| |||
|||||||||||||||||||| ||||||||||||||||||||| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| ||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||| ||||||||||||||||||||| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| ||
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||||||||||||||||||||||| ||||||||||||||||||||| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| |||||||||||
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||||||||||||||||||||||| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| |||||||||||||||||| |||||| |||||||||||||||||||| |||||||
00000007899AAABBBBBBBAA998887700000000DDDDDDEEEDDDDEEEDDDDD2DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDCCABCDCDDCCCCBCBBBBBABCBCCCBBBBBBBBBBBBA99999AA9A9997999888677655422000223444444444443222022222202222222233333222222202222222000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
0 16 32 48 64 80 96 112 128 144 160 176 192 208 224 240 256

 

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 11:36:47 -0400, Nelson wrote:

My wife dropped her portable radio in coke. I took it apart and cleaned
it and it seems to work fine except the LCD Display is dim and erratic.
It connects to the PCB lands by pressure only and pressing improves the
display somewhat. I don't understand how this type of connection works.
I have cleaned both parts but not much improvement.

Any advice would be appreciated. I understand that the acid from the soft
drink can dissolve connections and that the sugar will cause shorts.
However not much got in and I have cleaned everything else pretty well.
Is there some kind of contact grease that has to be applied to the lands
to make a good connection?

Need to clean the edge of the lcd in rubbing alcohol. The contacts between
the lcd and pcb should be completely free of any substance so it's a no to
any contact 'grease'.

 

[clifto]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

It would make common sense to me to believe that the
relative humidity in a refrigerator would be pretty high.

I'd suggest you read a book on physics.

I'd suggest you find out what RELATIVE humidity is.

--
Britney Spears' Guide to Semiconductor Physics
<http://britneyspears.ac/lasers.htm>

 

[Art]

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4850BF4D.BC525079@hotmail.com...

Franc Zabkar wrote:

tom@nospam.com (Tom) put finger to keyboard and composed:

I found this to be absolutely hilarious:
http://www.divshare.com/download/4712468-a34
I can understand the obvious misspelling, but what is "wafer" supposed
to
mean?

I'm trying to understand the reason that an "S" is appended to
resistors, capacitors, and diodes, ie RS2, CS4, DS2.

A purely inspired guess would be that these are 'safety rated' components.

RS2 looks like it could be a flameproof part, CS5 is likely an X-rated
cap,
RS3 a high-voltage type (looks like the start-up R that needs 350V
rating).

And you can see some 'CY' Y-type caps too on the second pic.

And then the theory falls down brilliantly on the secondary side !


As for WAFER, if you're looking for a typo on a QWERTY keyboard, then
possibilities include SAFER, WAGER, WATER, WAVER, WADER. However, I'll
wager it would be safer to keep water out of the power supply. I'd
also waver before touching the power connector, although wearing
rubber waders may afford some protection.

Google "wafer connector".

Graham
AbQsuatElie WoniErFulskz!! LOAM

 

[Gunner]

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:00:06 -0700 (PDT), y_p_w <y_p_w@hotmail.com>
wrote:

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per Nate Nagel:
I'm in the exact same situation; there's at least two HD's between me
and any Lowe's. And HD pretty much sucks.

Anybody know what happened to Home Depot?

Few years back I thought they were pretty good and the sales
people were knowledgeable and helpful.

Last few times I went to Home Depot, the sales people would sort
of look down or scurry in the other direction as soon as they
perceived that you might be looking for help.... and the
inventory (at least little nuts-and-bolts stuff) seems to have
gone downhill.

Too much competition? Bean counters running the show?

Who knows. The best help I ever got at Home Depot was at their store
in Santa Clara, California. When I asked the guy who helped me how he
knew so much, he indicated that he was moonlighting from his job at
Underwriters Labs, whose West Coast offices were in the same city.
Had an engineering degree, has a thorough understanding of the safety
of the electrical items he was selling, and only had the job because
he was paying for kids going to college. Of course that's not
typical, but I have noticed a steady drop in the quality of the help
from Home Depot employees.

Home Despot used to make it a point of hiring such people, or retired
electricians, plumbers, carpenters etc. They actually used to brag
about it in their early ads.

Then they started having problems hiring such people because of
internal politics, labor law issues and so forth.
Frankly...anyone with a strong background in the trades would not
allow themselves to be treated the way HD treated these people...so
they found themselves unable to hire these people. ACE Hardware and
so forth started picking up the cream of the crop in many areas.

Much the same way small manufactures in the US will no longer, for the
most part, have anything to do with Walmart.

Once the word got around that once you got into bed with Walmart..you
would at best be fucked in the ass regularly, or lose your business to
them, or the bankers, most folks will NOT do direct business with them
anylonger

http://www.fastcompany.com/magazine/77/walmart.html


Just one of hundreds of such links

 

[jfeng@my-deja.com]

On Jun 12, 7:15 am, bradsch...@prontomail.com wrote:

How reliable are they? I'd worry about the switch and the LEDs
crapping out. Good LEDs and machined aluminum are not cheap even in
China... I'd buy a tie for 10RMB in China, but not an LED flashlight.
Who knows? None of mine (or the ones that I gave as stocking

stuffers) have failed yet. Not very long, but no obvious infant
mortality. The illumination is uniform. With fresh batteries, the
light is very bright. As far as I know, they are all made in China
and imported. The only advantage I know of getting it at a place like
REI is that they will give you a replacement if yours breaks, but for
the price difference, I can afford to be self-insured. I have an
older brand-name LED flashlight (Coast), and it is not as bright and
some LEDs have failed. And for 10 RMB, I would be and was willing to
take a chance.

 

On Jun 11, 9:13 am, t_gibso...@yahoo.com wrote:

I'm looking for a small LED flashlight to carry with me:

- Short and thin enough to fit in my pocket (around 4" length)

- Uses AA or AAA batteries (easy to find, not lithium)

- Has decent brightness (enough to read a house number)

- Lasts longer than 2 hours

- Reliable switch

- Should be able to withstand sweaty hand or occasional water splash

The closest thing I've seen is an Inova at Target, but the light is a
bit dim and the runtime is only 2 hours.

Thanks in advance -

Suggestions - these are newer, long lasting, well-reviewed products
that produce a good throw on 1 AA battery

Fenix L1T - various stores online - click switch for one hand
operation
Coast LL7736 V2 Tactical Power Chip - Fry's - click switch
Gerber Firecracker - REI - twist switch

I assume you need something in your pocket when walking/hiking at
night. If you're trying to read a house number from your car, just get
a 2D Maglite from Target/Wal-Mart.

 

[jfeng@my-deja.com]

On Jun 12, 7:44 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" <dishborea...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Will it do a serious job of illuminating something from 100 feet away, maybe
on a rainy night?
As far as I know, none of the multi-LED flashlights will thow a

focussed beam. I have seen some with a single-LED rated at 1-watt
(common) or 3-watts (rare), and you can kind of focus those.

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 03:45:33 +0000, Tom wrote:

I found this to be absolutely hilarious:
http://www.divshare.com/download/4712468-a34 I can understand the obvious
misspelling, but what is "wafer" supposed to mean?

Wafer connector:
http://www.globalsources.com/manufacturers/Wafer-Connector.html

Hope This Helps!
Rich

 

[Nelson]

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 13:55:34 -0400, Meat Plow wrote
(in article <1uodf5.cfv.17.1@news.alt.net&gt:

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 11:36:47 -0400, Nelson wrote:

My wife dropped her portable radio in coke. I took it apart and cleaned
it and it seems to work fine except the LCD Display is dim and erratic.
It connects to the PCB lands by pressure only and pressing improves the
display somewhat. I don't understand how this type of connection works.
I have cleaned both parts but not much improvement.

Any advice would be appreciated. I understand that the acid from the soft
drink can dissolve connections and that the sugar will cause shorts.
However not much got in and I have cleaned everything else pretty well.
Is there some kind of contact grease that has to be applied to the lands
to make a good connection?

Need to clean the edge of the lcd in rubbing alcohol. The contacts between
the lcd and pcb should be completely free of any substance so it's a no to
any contact 'grease'.

Thanks. I also read somewhere that a very fine coat of WD-40 would
work... and it did.

--
Nelson

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

 

[Baron]

N_Cook wrote:

Assuming no one knows of a UK supplier of packs of just these and not
sockets plus nuts. I've run out of salvaged ones to replace the
missing ones from amps, to be repaired for other reasons than just
missing nuts, but cannot return to owners with missing ones.

How to make adequate replacements ? any ideas.
The thread for the plastic ones seem to be 12mm x 1.75 pitch, ie
coarser thread than the metal ones that I have dozens/hundreds of.
Find some black plastic of the right sort of thickness. Ignore the
flange bit. Grind a cutting face on all 6 sides of an appropriate size
old hex socket set driver to punch the outer hex shape. Punch a
circular central hole and tap 12mm thread.?

There is at least one manufacturer in the UK for these. I can't
remember the name for the moment. I used to buy various sizes of nylon
nuts and threaded rod from them for high voltage assembly's. I
probably have some that size in stock.

Try "Moss Plastics"

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

 

[Eeyore]

N_Cook wrote:

Assuming no one knows of a UK supplier of packs of just these and not
sockets plus nuts.

WTF are you talking about. ?

You really do 'lose' the plot' sometimes.

What's a 'back nut' anyway ?

Graham

 

[JeffM]

Michael Robinson wrote:

test


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

There is a proper way to do Usenet tests:
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:aetkKiLDUawJ:lipas.uwasa.fi/~ts/http/testpost.html+Please-don't-do-this+better.solution+alt.test+annoying+Zen+tens-of-thousands-*-*+misc.test

 

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[Eeyore]

ItsASecretDummy wrote:

So, those are all a "way" "fer" you to connect stuff up.

I see why you call yourself "Dummy".

Graham

 

[NoSp]

Here's a photo of what my screen looks like after I replaced its CCFL
backlight tube. Obviously, something's gone wrong:
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/962/lcdlinesxe1.jpg

According to this page (http://www.moniserv.com/doc/panelrepair.html) it
seems like the problem is with the TAB and/or TCP of the display, and it
can be fixed (although at another page of theirs it says that vertical
or horizontal lines can't be fixed:
http://www.moniserv.com/doc/laptopscreen.html)

What kind of problem does it look like, and is it likely that it can be
fixed?
I have no idea how I got this problem in the first place as I was very
careful when disassembling/reassembling the LCD panel.

 

it will not turn on at all(nor talk/batt low diodes) even with
new battery...
Here is its schematic
http://www.geocities.com/anglomont/nb3908.jpg
resoldered batt and charge contacts, q15 and q101 seem ok, any other
suspect areas ?
tnx