Does anyone know a good LED pocket flashlight with decent br

I'm looking for a small LED flashlight to carry with me:

- Short and thin enough to fit in my pocket (around 4" length)

- Uses AA or AAA batteries (easy to find, not lithium)

- Has decent brightness (enough to read a house number)

- Lasts longer than 2 hours

- Reliable switch

- Should be able to withstand sweaty hand or occasional water splash

The closest thing I've seen is an Inova at Target, but the light is a
bit dim and the runtime is only 2 hours.

Thanks in advance -

 

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[Eeyore]

ItsASecretDummy wrote:

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 03:45:33 GMT, tom@nospam.com (Tom) wrote:

I found this to be absolutely hilarious:
http://www.divshare.com/download/4712468-a34
I can understand the obvious misspelling, but what is "wafer" supposed to
mean?

You cannot see the thermistor attached to that connector and plugged
into that socket marked "wafer"?

Eh ?

It's a mains input connector. See the blue neutral wire and the required
double insulation (the black jacket).

Graham

 

[John Robertson]

Jim Adney wrote:

I recently got out my trusty Heathkit TT-1 tube tester to check a
bunch of tubes that had accumulated here. I've stopped using its roll
chart, because it's starting to show its age, and I assume the roll
chart is not replacable. If it IS, I'd love to hear about it.

Jim, if you live in a medium sized city chances are you have a company
that copies architectural drawings. These guys have continuous feed
photocopiers that will copy almost ANY length of paper! Not saying it
will be cheap though, but perhaps if you provide the roll of paper it
might go easier on you? Here in Vancouver a company called TR Trades has
a few of these machines going all day long and they ar every handy for
making long copies of my schematics, plus they can reduce or scan them
as well. However they are in business and do not do this for free.

I have heard that these endless length copiers turn up on eBay from time
to time, perhaps someone here has one?

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[Eeyore]

Arfa Daily wrote:

"Albert" <albert@netmation.com> wrote in message
news:c7b24625-111e-457b-b621-421c165a0740@h1g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
Have an older 23" CRT VX1120 monitor. I lowered the resolution on it
to 1280 x1024 and a few minutes later the screen went out and now it
is totally black. Could something of blown up since I lowered the
resolution? Or was it most likely just a coincedence that it failed
on me at that time?


Not really enough information about what's happening. It's a bit like saying
"I went to a different petrol station today, and now my car won't start"

Are there any lights ? Can you see the CRT heater glowing ? Are there any
ticking or whistling or 'pumping' noises coming from it ? Any "barummm"
noise from the degausing circuit when first powered from a full cold power
down ? Any 'rustle' of high voltage or feel any static on the back of your
hand from the tube face, when you power up ?

May just be coincidence, but when resolution is altered, so is the nature of
the stresses on some parts of the circuitry, and it's possible that it has
triggered a fault that was 'waiting to happen' so to speak ...

Umm ,,,, has he checked any fuses ? It it's *totally* dead ??

Graham

 

[KLS]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 15:53:02 GMT, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)
wrote:

In article <PLadnZsYY__edtLVnZ2dnUVZ_rrinZ2d@earthlink.com>, "HeyBub" <heybub@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:
I got a couple of these upon recommendation from glenn reynolds at
instapundit.com.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Bright-Heavy-Duty-Compact-Aluminum-Flashlight/dp/B0
00LIQQ7M/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1213196969&sr=8-2

I haven't tried its longevity, but it seems to put out a substantial light.

I have had two similar priced units of different colors. They are junk, and will flicker
after a while driving you nuts, until you throw it away.

Just like Glenn Reynolds, but no one has thrown him away yet.

 

ss ray ban sunglass
From: buyerwindow <buyerwindow@yahoo.com.cn>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 11:14:55 -0700 (PDT)
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[Rich Webb]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 15:10:07 -0500, "Dallas"
<Cybnorm@spam_me_not.Hotmail.Com> wrote:

The trouble is, my neighbor introduced me to his speed test site
http://www.speedtest.net/index.php and I've been getting a pretty consistent
4400 Kbps on that site. On the DSLReports.com tests I get 1200 to 2500
Kbps, usually around 1500 Kbps. On AT&T test sites I get 1800 to 3000 Kbps.
I'm all over the board.

Sounds like the problem is very possibly with your provider, although
I wouldn't completely rule out that your networking parameters aren't
quite peaked and tweaked. Are you confident that your MSS, MTU, and
RWIN are appropriate for your connection?

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

 

[Meat Plow]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 15:10:07 -0500, Dallas wrote:

I found such good help here on the subject of my DSL line speed I hope you
don't mind if I come back with this semi OT follow up.

I currently don't know if there is, or ever was anything wrong with my DSL
speed. I would be interested to hear if you think there is something
wrong by these symptoms.

My ISP Earthlink's standard referral for a DSL speed test is 2wire.com.
The average of 42 speed tests on my system is 1420 Kbps. I'm paying for
6000 Kbps. The AT&T tech rep tested my line and said it was good to up to
his NID.

My next door neighbor is on AT&T's 6000 Kbps plan. I performed the 2wire
test on his system and he easily got 4750 Kbps, so I ran home and tested
mine and got the usual 1390 Kbps. It seems clear that my neighborhood
should be able to get around 5000 Kbps.

Ok.. that sounds like there's something wrong, right?

The trouble is, my neighbor introduced me to his speed test site
http://www.speedtest.net/index.php and I've been getting a pretty
consistent 4400 Kbps on that site. On the DSLReports.com tests I get 1200
to 2500 Kbps, usually around 1500 Kbps. On AT&T test sites I get 1800 to
3000 Kbps. I'm all over the board.


These are my speed tests on one day if it will help:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v101/Dallas52/Dallas/zDSLtests2008-jun-11-001.jpg

Does it seem to you like I've got something wrong? I need to know how
hard I should work on this...

I upgraded to the 2WIRE 2701HG-B Wireless Gateway. It shows detailed
connection stats fore the broadband connection like cell header errors,
loss of cell delineation for the ATM, and link retrains, training errors,
loss of frame failures, correctable/uncorrectable blocks, delay of latency
path, impulse noise protection,final rx gain, VCXO freq offset and I could
go on and on.

Late last night I started having connection problems so I opened the link
to the router and saw many cell header errors that came back when I reset
the statistics. I also notice my modem retrained for 3129 kbps whereas
before it had been at 5321. This morning things were back to normal and
when I reset the DSL connection the modem retrained back to 5120 kbps
KB/s. I have no home phone or phone lines connected as the wire pair
terminates in an outlet that only the DSL line is plugged into so there
was nothing that could have caused noise on my end.

You really need something like the 2WIRE 2701HG-B and it's advanced
logging and diagnostics to troubleshoot your problem. My download is
capped at 6000 kbps I can get around 4.4 mbps down and around 688 kbps up.
I'll never see 6 because I'm 13k feet from the DSLAM as DSL signals at
300khz attenuate rapidly in copper wire at the gauge they use.

This is what I use to test my speed as you can select a locale closer to
you.

http://helpme.att.net/dsl/speedtest/

 

[Paul Hovnanian P.E.]

Tom wrote:

I found this to be absolutely hilarious:
http://www.divshare.com/download/4712468-a34
I can understand the obvious misspelling, but what is "wafer" supposed to
mean?

That's the wafer you to connect wires to the PCB. ;-)

--
Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

 

[Mike]

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
newsnZ3k.4511$s77.491@bignews3.bellsouth.net...

"Mike" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news4Z3k.210$rW4.133@fe109.usenetserver.com...

"Cleo Frank" <cf@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fNY3k.3755$bh5.2344@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should be
blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it from
underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse or fusible
link.

 

[Nate Nagel]

(PeteCresswell) wrote:

Per N8N:

the Lowe's 3W 2C cell flashlight is the best I've ever owned, period.
And it's about $30. Kicks butt


I bought one for use on my bike.

Couple weeks later, I bought a half-dozen more tb used as gifts.

That's one *Brave* little light.

yeah, I think you might have actually contributed to the thread that
turned me on to it. I wouldn't have found it by myself as I don't have
a Lowe's real handy, but it was worth the trip. I also got the
replacement collimator from dealextreme to try to make it more suitable
for bike use, but haven't had a chance to ride after dark since it
showed up since every day I've had a free evening it's either been
raining torrentially, over 90 degrees, or both. I did ride a little
after dark with it as it was "out of the box" and it flat out rocks.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

 

[b]

On 11 jun, 20:36, Albert <alb...@netmation.com> wrote:

I see nothing or hear nothing when I turn it on now. All I see is a
blinking
amber light showing that it is getting power.

Power supply is in protection mode by the look of it... could be: bad
secondary diodes, bad line output transformer or transistor, or frame /
vertical chip.

A tech should take little time to diagnose the cause. However, in my
experience with larger monitors you spend so much time dismantling to
get access to the boards that repair could be too expensive or more
that the unit is worth.

Was very surprised that even switching

to an unsupported frequency could of caused something like this,

ouch!
.....could HAVE, never ever could OF. (modal verb in perfect
infinitive )

(....takes off anorak ;-)))

 

[b]

On 9 jun, 18:21, m...@privacy.net wrote:

two years of electronics school and a general class ham
license

so what are you waiting for?!
these problems are often great for those starting in tv repair, as
they're so specific. The chances of fixing it are pretty good if you
can solder and have access to spares. And above all, it keeps a usable
unit from the landfill. good luck and ask here for help again if need
be.
>B

 

[JeffM]

Cleo Frank wrote:

I did accidentally install it backwards

As has been said: high probability electronic items are smoked.

the battery is now securely connected.
[...]no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

I start with the lights, then try lights+horn.

A voltmeter is a pretty lousy tool for troubleshooting this
(well, after an initial check of the battery).
The light-bulb probes they sell in auto parts departments
are better for this--or you can make your own with any auto bulb.

Unlike a voltmeter, because these PULL SOME CURRENT,
they are really good at sorting out a YES from a NO from a MAYBE.
You can also tell Pass/Fail out of the corner of your eye.

Clip the lead hanging out the end to a part of the body
and start probing with the point.
When you stop seeing it light up, back up.
If you can't get anything from the body to the + post of the battery,
the ground connection from the battery is open.

 

[Jim Adney]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:26:31 GMT John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:

Jim, if you live in a medium sized city chances are you have a company
that copies architectural drawings. These guys have continuous feed
photocopiers that will copy almost ANY length of paper!

Interesting thought. I didn't know that such things existed. I can ask
around. It's likely that if I had more than one made at the same time,
each one might be cheaper.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

[jakdedert]

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

"y_p_w" <y_p_w@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:531d699f-66c0-4cc6-825c-8041ad8a226a@x1g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 11, 7:13 am, t_gibso...@yahoo.com wrote:
I'm looking for a small LED flashlight to carry with me:

- Short and thin enough to fit in my pocket (around 4" length)

- Uses AA or AAA batteries (easy to find, not lithium)

- Has decent brightness (enough to read a house number)

- Lasts longer than 2 hours

- Reliable switch

- Should be able to withstand sweaty hand or occasional water splash

The closest thing I've seen is an Inova at Target, but the light is a
bit dim and the runtime is only 2 hours.

Thanks in advance -
I use a Petzl Tikka in my hand. I occasionally use it on my head.
It's rated for up to 130 hours on AAA alkalines, but the manufacturer
says that rechargeable AAAs are acceptable. It's not going to be
terribly bright with maybe 1/3 of runtime left, but with rechargeables
you can charge it up before you need it. The brightness is
considerably higher with freshly charged batteries. It's not
ridiculously bright, but perfectly fine for getting around the house
without turning every light on or making myself noticeable on a late
night walk.

Another option would be an LED bicycle headlamp. Cateye pretty much
sets the standard for quality, although there might be other brands
that could serve you well. Some of the less bright ones are under
$30, and sometimes you can find ones for $12-20 on sale. Most of the
ones I see advertise anywhere from 30 to 240 hour runtimes depending
on settings. Some come with velcro straps which you could slip a
finger or two through.


He said "bright enough to read house numbers", which I suspect means from
maybe the street. Will those Petzl lights do that?


You know, that didn't register with me. The Dorcy model I recommended

wouldn't hack it; but possibly some of the Luxeon-equipped models in
their lineup would. They have several with 45 lumens up to 140 lumens
output.

This one; 2 AA's, 80 lumen rating, listed as being able to project 100'
would probably fit the bill. No word on runtime....

http://www.dorcy.com/products.aspx?p=414216

jak

 

[Steve B.]

I'm 99.9% certain it's a broken earth strap. You can usually check easily with a
heavy duty jump lead placed between some good (unpainted) contacts points on the
engine block and car chassis, re-making the connection, unless it's further back
the chain right at the battery (but unlikely).

Graham

When you hook up the battery backwards (the OP did) it doesn't cause
the "earth strap" to break. It burns out the fusible links or blows
fuses and maybe even cooks some electronic components.

Steve B.

 

[jakdedert]

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I don't know of any such. The closest I can find, is a Mini Mag 2 AA light,
with the Nite Ize conversion. Might not be good for house numbers, but you
can always keep a 3D or 4D Mag Light in the car with you.

My mini mag, I got the Opalec conversion when they first came out. 3 LED,
and not very bright. Later got the Teralux conversion. Turns out the new
Nite Ize ($4.97 Walmart) is about as bright as my $30 Teralux. I think the
run time is six hours, on alkaline AA cells.

I got the $5 WallyMart conversion as well...damn bright, considering

that similar conversions are selling for upwards of $20. I'd like to
get a Luxeon for it, but I think I'll buy the led and build my own.

jak

 

[Peter Wieck]

On Jun 11, 11:58 pm, Jim Adney <jad...@vwtype3.org> wrote:

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:26:31 GMT John Robertson <s...@flippers.com
wrote:

Jim, if you live in a medium sized city chances are you have a company
that copies architectural drawings. These guys have continuous feed
photocopiers that will copy almost ANY length of paper!

Interesting thought. I didn't know that such things existed. I can ask
around. It's likely that if I had more than one made at the same time,
each one might be cheaper.

Yep. They do. The only downside is that you are stuck with whatever
default width the machine takes. We keep one in the office that is set
for 42" as the standard width. Lots of waste for small drawings. It is
"scanner-to-plotter" HP technology and so does color (very nicely) as
well. NOT CHEAP. It also operates (with different dyes and/or inks) on
vinyl, finished fabrics, sticky-back or slick paper - even more
expensive.

On the other hand, as the entire system is computerized, we often will
print-in-parallel so as not to waste paper. We can scan one 18" banner
into the system and print two out on the 42" stock with good margins.
If you are using 8.5 x whatever originals, you could print four rows
in parallel. All this can be set up after the initial scan and before
the *expensive* "PRINT" button is hit. 11 x 17 fold-outs can also be
accomodated in the initial set-up without (much) waste.

As William notes below, the length that can be plotted/printed is
limited only by the length of the printer-stock roll.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA