"Do not use solvents on electronic equipment"

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 06:50:36 -0600, "Tim Williams"
<tmoranwms@charter.net> Gave us:

"Keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
newsan.2006.03.19.02.59.11.50758@att.bizzzz...
retarded bat's turd.

Melamine isn't a plastic, DimBulb?

Psst... Keith... let it go to the killfile all-fuckin-ready...

You have al-fuckin-ready proven to us that you are an
abso-fuckin-lute retard.

 

[David Peters]

On 18 Mar 2006, William P.N. Smith wrote:

Sammy <no-one@no-where.com> wrote:
Many instruction booklets for domestic electronic equipment say
do not use cleaning solvents such as alcohol.

I've had rubbing alcohol ruin the translucent red cover for an
LED display on a couple of pieces of test equipment. Also,
don't let the cleaning folks with their typical spray cleaners
or furniture polishes anywere near stuff you want to see thru
(VCR displays, etc).

I have alswys liked to use spray furniture polish for optics. I
beleive it contain silicon and this leaves a very fine (effectively
optically transaprent) film which is also grease resistent.

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 03:47:37 GMT, David Peters <no-email@mail.com>
Gave us:

On 18 Mar 2006, William P.N. Smith wrote:

Sammy <no-one@no-where.com> wrote:
Many instruction booklets for domestic electronic equipment say
do not use cleaning solvents such as alcohol.

I've had rubbing alcohol ruin the translucent red cover for an
LED display on a couple of pieces of test equipment. Also,
don't let the cleaning folks with their typical spray cleaners
or furniture polishes anywere near stuff you want to see thru
(VCR displays, etc).


I have alswys liked to use spray furniture polish for optics. I
beleive it contain silicon and this leaves a very fine (effectively
optically transaprent) film which is also grease resistent.

RainX is better.

 

[JW]

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:47:58 GMT David Peters <no-email@mail.com> wrote in
Message id: <Xns978AB5110C6AA351D7E@204.153.244.170>:

Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is of
interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active ingredients
are ?

I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No damage of
finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous space first, of course.

 

[John Savage]

Sammy <no-one@no-where.com> writes:

Many instruction booklets for domestic electronic equipment say do
not use cleaning solvents such as alcohol.

Is this advice given simply because they are trying to prevent
possible marking of the plastic casing?

Or can domestic cleaning solvents actually damage the electronics
inside in some way?

Alcohol is one of the more innocuous of the organic solvents. I doubt
that it would attack any plastic case, but other solvents can. One thing
that alcohol can do is dissolve the labelling ink on some circuit boards
or components. This would make repair (i.e., replacement based on the
component value or board number) difficult, maybe dangerous if it
happened that a lower-voltage component were substituted, for example,
because the original component's label had become smudged or obliterated.
Solvents might dissolve the lubricant on switch contacts, or sliders, or
disperse it over potentiometer tracks causing later problems. Spraying
solvent into equipment may damage speaker cones or piezo speakers.

Liberally dripping solvent into equipment may cause it to malfunction,
e.g., an air-gap capacitor trimmer will have different parameters when
the dielectric is liquid solvent, and if the solvent is flammable it
might cause a fire from static electricity or a switching spark. If a
cleaning solution were to leave an hygroscopic residue on a circuit board
this could initiate electrochemical corrosion (copper/brass + lead/steel/
aluminium in contact in a conductive solution). Water-based cleaners with
ammonia will be conductive, so could short out tracks on a board.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

 

[Keith]

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 12:08:57 -0500, JW wrote:

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:47:58 GMT David Peters <no-email@mail.com> wrote in
Message id: <Xns978AB5110C6AA351D7E@204.153.244.170>:

Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is of
interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active ingredients
are ?

I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No damage of
finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous space first, of course.

Oh, crap! Now you're in for a lashing at the hands of know-it-all fucks!
How *dare* you contridict the mighty fucks!

--
Keith

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 23:20:37 GMT, John Savage
<rookswood@suburbian.com.au> Gave us:

One thing
that alcohol can do is dissolve the labelling ink on some circuit boards
or components. This would make repair (i.e., replacement based on the
component value or board number) difficult,

Not true. Chlorinated solvents, yes, but alcohol, a resounding no!

If your PCB maker is using a component silk screen ink that solves
in alcohol, I would question a lot about the quality of other aspects
of his manufactured product as well.

All of the inks I have EVER heard of were all enamels that were
hardy to weak solvents like alcohol. It is actually a UL requirement
IIRC. Same holds true for the makers of heat shrink wrapped and
labeled parts like EL caps and the like.

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 23:20:37 GMT, John Savage
<rookswood@suburbian.com.au> Gave us:

If a
cleaning solution were to leave an hygroscopic residue on a circuit board
this could initiate electrochemical corrosion

A PCB is ALREADY hygroscopic unless it has been conformally coated.

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:46:05 -0500, Keith <krw@att.bizzzz> Gave us:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 12:08:57 -0500, JW wrote:

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:47:58 GMT David Peters <no-email@mail.com> wrote in
Message id: <Xns978AB5110C6AA351D7E@204.153.244.170>:

Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is of
interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active ingredients
are ?

I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No damage of
finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous space first, of course.

Oh, crap! Now you're in for a lashing at the hands of know-it-all fucks!
How *dare* you contridict the mighty fucks!

The word for today is VULCANIZATION. Something which has obviously
occurred in both of your skull cavities.

 

[John Savage]

David Peters <no-email@mail.com> writes:

Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is of
interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active ingredients are ?

An effective goo remover is peanut butter (aka peanut paste). In the
absence of peanut butter, use WD-40. Both leave a smudge of oil, but
that's easily cleaned up with a drop of detergent on a damp tissue.

On a metal or glass surface, tea tree oil and mineral turps are both
good at removing sticker goo, but these can attack paint and plastics
so don't use on such surfaces unless you are willing to accept some
surface spoilage.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

 

[David Peters]

On 21 Mar 2006, Roy L. Fuchs wrote:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:46:05 -0500, Keith <krw@att.bizzzz> Gave
us:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 12:08:57 -0500, JW wrote:

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:47:58 GMT David Peters
no-email@mail.com> wrote in Message id:
Xns978AB5110C6AA351D7E@204.153.244.170>:

Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is
of interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active
ingredients are ?

I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No
damage of finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous space
first, of course.

Oh, crap! Now you're in for a lashing at the hands of
know-it-all fucks! How *dare* you contridict the mighty fucks!


The word for today is VULCANIZATION. Something which has
obviously
occurred in both of your skull cavities.

PMFJI but can plastic be vulcanized? I know rubber and sulphur
heated tother will vulcanize the rubber but is it much the same
process with a plastic. I check this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic but it didn't help,


BTW is the awful stink you can occasionally smell coming from some
makes of office rubber bands due to the lack or perhaps excess of
proper vulcanization?

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 15:15:38 GMT, David Peters <no-email@mail.com>
Gave us:

On 21 Mar 2006, Roy L. Fuchs wrote:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:46:05 -0500, Keith <krw@att.bizzzz> Gave
us:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 12:08:57 -0500, JW wrote:

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:47:58 GMT David Peters
no-email@mail.com> wrote in Message id:
Xns978AB5110C6AA351D7E@204.153.244.170>:

Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is
of interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active
ingredients are ?

I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No
damage of finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous space
first, of course.

Oh, crap! Now you're in for a lashing at the hands of
know-it-all fucks! How *dare* you contridict the mighty fucks!


The word for today is VULCANIZATION. Something which has
obviously
occurred in both of your skull cavities.



PMFJI but can plastic be vulcanized? I know rubber and sulphur
heated tother will vulcanize the rubber but is it much the same
process with a plastic. I check this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic but it didn't help,

The term does NOT only refer to the process as it relates to rubber,
even though it was originally coined for that industrial process. The
term refers to a tempering action.

Did you search up "vulcanization"?

BTW is the awful stink you can occasionally smell coming from some
makes of office rubber bands due to the lack or perhaps excess of
proper vulcanization?

Rubber bands are usually gum rubber and are likely not vulcanized at
all.

the Wiki concentrates on the rubber process as well, but mentions
other polymers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vulcanization

The dictionary clearly states both rubbers and plastics.

http://m-w.com/dictionary/vulcanization

I use the term simply to describe a firming or hardening or "drying
out" of a plastic, making it brittle or crazed.

It may not be the proper term (likely not), but was used by past
associates, and I understood the inference, as I was able to see the
result. It is likely not the right term for what some solvents do to
some plastics that cause their bonds to break. In fact, in that
light, one would call it quite the opposite.

 

[David Peters]

On 22 Mar 2006, Roy L. Fuchs wrote:

On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 15:15:38 GMT, David Peters
no-email@mail.com> Gave us:

On 21 Mar 2006, Roy L. Fuchs wrote:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 21:46:05 -0500, Keith <krw@att.bizzzz
Gave us:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 12:08:57 -0500, JW wrote:

On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 17:47:58 GMT David Peters
no-email@mail.com> wrote in Message id:
Xns978AB5110C6AA351D7E@204.153.244.170>:

Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind
is of interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active
ingredients are ?

I use BBQ lighter fluid on plastics, with great results. No
damage of finish or paint. Best to test a inconspicuous
space first, of course.

Oh, crap! Now you're in for a lashing at the hands of
know-it-all fucks! How *dare* you contridict the mighty fucks!


The word for today is VULCANIZATION. Something which has
obviously
occurred in both of your skull cavities.



PMFJI but can plastic be vulcanized? I know rubber and sulphur
heated tother will vulcanize the rubber but is it much the same
process with a plastic. I check this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic but it didn't help,


The term does NOT only refer to the process as it relates to
rubber,
even though it was originally coined for that industrial
process. The term refers to a tempering action.

Did you search up "vulcanization"?

BTW is the awful stink you can occasionally smell coming from
some makes of office rubber bands due to the lack or perhaps
excess of proper vulcanization?

Rubber bands are usually gum rubber and are likely not
vulcanized at
all.

the Wiki concentrates on the rubber process as well, but
mentions other polymers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vulcanization

The dictionary clearly states both rubbers and plastics.

Yes, I see it does.

http://m-w.com/dictionary/vulcanization

I use the term simply to describe a firming or hardening or
"drying
out" of a plastic, making it brittle or crazed.

It may not be the proper term (likely not), but was used by
past
associates, and I understood the inference, as I was able to see
the result. It is likely not the right term for what some
solvents do to some plastics that cause their bonds to break.
In fact, in that light, one would call it quite the opposite.

Thank you for the explanation. I think I had the wrong end of the
stick as I was thinking that vulcanization somehow improved the life
of plastics in the way it does for rubber! Oops.

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 05:21:55 GMT, David Peters <no-email@mail.com>
Gave us:

The dictionary clearly states both rubbers and plastics.

Yes, I see it does.

Also, bought in store tube of "RTV" The acronym means "Room
Temperature Vulcanization". It isn't rubber, and there is no heat or
sulfur involved.

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 05:21:55 GMT, David Peters <no-email@mail.com>
Gave us:

Thank you for the explanation. I think I had the wrong end of the
stick as I was thinking that vulcanization somehow improved the life
of plastics in the way it does for rubber! Oops.

It appears that it firms up rubber, and makes it stronger and
better, but it seems to "firm up" plastics, and make them brittle or
even cause micro-fractures in their molecular lattices.

I am sure the chemistry group boys could explain it a lot better
than a lay person such as I as it relates to plastics and their
interactions with various solvents. If they are even reading the
thread.

 

[JW]

On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 01:24:13 GMT Roy L. Fuchs
<roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote in Message id:
<nn912214fud0ami5bgtui8r5tigup56dr1@4ax.com>:

Does your retarded ass

One of the great unexplained mysteries of my life; why I have not yet
killfiled you.

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 06:08:33 -0500, JW <none@dev.nul> Gave us:

On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 01:24:13 GMT Roy L. Fuchs
roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote in Message id:
nn912214fud0ami5bgtui8r5tigup56dr1@4ax.com>:

Does your retarded ass

One of the great unexplained mysteries of my life; why I have not yet
killfiled you.

You're a retard,
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
Yes you are...
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
Stay outta the bar.

 

[JW]

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 13:38:32 GMT Roy L. Fuchs
<roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote in Message id:
<kft7221vipfps6bic5sfdhj51o145n1056@4ax.com>:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 06:08:33 -0500, JW <none@dev.nul> Gave us:

On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 01:24:13 GMT Roy L. Fuchs
roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote in Message id:
nn912214fud0ami5bgtui8r5tigup56dr1@4ax.com>:

Does your retarded ass

One of the great unexplained mysteries of my life; why I have not yet
killfiled you.

You're a retard,
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
Yes you are...
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
Stay outta the bar.

Has anyone ever told you that you're more repetitive than a fucking air
raid siren in WWII Dresden?

(And about as interesting as well. Hmph)

 

[David Peters]

On 22 Mar 2006, John Savage wrote:

David Peters <no-email@mail.com> writes:
Anything which removes labels or the glue they leave behind is
of interest to me! Do you know what Goof-Off's active
ingredients are ?

An effective goo remover is peanut butter (aka peanut paste). In
the absence of peanut butter, use WD-40. Both leave a smudge of
oil, but that's easily cleaned up with a drop of detergent on a
damp tissue.

On a metal or glass surface, tea tree oil and mineral turps are
both good at removing sticker goo, but these can attack paint
and plastics so don't use on such surfaces unless you are
willing to accept some surface spoilage.

Peanut butter? Heh! Now that will give me an excuse to keep a
jar of peanut butter in the house.

Must try the peanut butter because although I haven't tried the
tea tree oil you suggest for removing sticker glue, I have tried
eucalyptus oil and it works rather well. Presumably eucalyptus
oil is quite similar to tea tree oil in this respect.

Now here's another: if you are a sweaty sort of person then I
find that skin oil (say, from the brow) works remarkably well!

 

[Keith]

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 12:51:22 -0500, JW wrote:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 13:38:32 GMT Roy L. Fuchs
roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote in Message id:
kft7221vipfps6bic5sfdhj51o145n1056@4ax.com>:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 06:08:33 -0500, JW <none@dev.nul> Gave us:

On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 01:24:13 GMT Roy L. Fuchs
roylfuchs@urfargingicehole.org> wrote in Message id:
nn912214fud0ami5bgtui8r5tigup56dr1@4ax.com>:

Does your retarded ass

One of the great unexplained mysteries of my life; why I have not yet
killfiled you.

You're a retard,
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
Yes you are...
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
You're a retard,
Stay outta the bar.

Has anyone ever told you that you're more repetitive than a fucking air
raid siren in WWII Dresden?

You forgot; "... and as useless as one in Hiroshima".

(And about as interesting as well. Hmph)

I see you've met the infamous DimBulb!

--
Keith