D
David Eather
Guest
Jon Kirwan wrote:
a few detours to see what would help or harm that.
amplifier, but you might prefer some other arrangement so keep it in
mind if your circuit "motorboats"
So there are questions of usage (music, PA, PA with an emergency alert
siren tied in etc) and rectifier arrangement and capacitor size /
voltage to get your required voltage output at full load.
better than mine. I had to ask, rather than just assume just in case my
assumptions got you building something you didn't want to, and got you
splattered all over the place from the mains, or suggesting you choose
the miller cap by watching the phase shift of the feedback circuit - I
don't read a lot of the posts so I didn't know what you could do.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_amplifier
The bits on class A might be interesting as it says 25% efficiency and
50% obtainable with inductive output coupling (i.e. with a transformer)
which is what I said, not what blow hard Phil said.
Well it would cost something less at 10 watts.On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 17:31:00 +1000, David Eather
eather@tpg.com.au> wrote:
Jon Kirwan wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 16:15:45 -0800, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 12:57:13 -0800, Jon Kirwan
jonk@infinitefactors.org> wrote:
I'd like to take a crack at thinking through a design of an
audio amplifier made up of discrete BJTs and other discrete
parts as an educational process.
I imagine this will be broken up into three sections; input
transconductance, transimpedance VAS, and output driver. But
other arrangements (such as combining the VAS and output
driver using a signal splitting BJT) would work for me, in
learning.
I said "BJT" and "discrete" but I'm also open to the idea of
using BJT pairs, such as the BCV61 and BCV62. In the case of
current mirrors, that may make sense. But not high-priced,
elite and/or hard to get, or obsolete. And no FETs. This is
to be about learning to design with BJTs.
SMT vs through-hole isn't an issue for learning about a
design, I suppose. If I need to build up some section and
test it with a signal, I'll probably want to do it quickly
and without having to buy services every step of the way. So
I may 'dead bug' SMT parts to get there. (The basic idea
here is to learn, not to make something tiny.)
Although I have some other applications, right now I'd like
the target use to be as a computer speaker system (not unlike
those dirt cheap, sadly almost all of them 10% THD, systems
sold today into this market. Except that I'd like to work
through the design on my own, from start to end.
Given what I understand right now from a very short search on
the topic, the input should be taken as a maximum of 1.0Vrms
and the input's load should appear to be something like 10k
ohms. If someone knows different from that, I'll accept the
criticism and change that spec.
I'd like to consider a tone control and a volume control to
be included.
Output is to be into a small 8 ohm speaker. With that
maximum 1.0Vrms at the input and the volume control set to
maximum the wattage into 8 ohms should be around 10 watts.
Since human hearing won't tell much difference between 8
watts and 12 watts, this is a bit of a sloppy spec and I'm
open to anything in the area of 5-20 watts... though I'm
really wanting to keep the rail voltages down to something
modest and the BJTs not having to tolerate hugish Vce.
Now that I say this, an odd idea comes to mind because the
CFL light bulbs include two TO-220 BJTs that can handle quite
a high Vce on them. I could cannibalize those. But to be
honest, I'm still not needing high watt outputs. So there's
no reason to think about scavenging such parts.
I would like to design it to work into 4 ohms as a margin
bound and not as a design goal, but even 5.6 ohms would be
acceptable.
I'm not looking for this to be done quickly, either. If it
takes months of only occasional back-and-forth, I'm fine with
that. Also, I expect to do my work and don't expect someone
else to hand-hold me from complete ignorante to complete
enlightenment.I just need someone to slap my face when
I say something terribly stupid and/or point in a truely
useful direction when I need it. Or else someone who is
wanting to explore this with me and willing to work for it.
Is anyone here willing to consider a sincere discussion?
Jon
Back when transistors were young, and transistor manuals (GE, RCA)
were published, there were tons of such circuits around. They all
pretty much converged to a few forms, and haven't changed much since.
I remember reading in popular electronics about some audio
amps that I couldn't even come close to following at the
time. The series of them with the name 'tiger' in them.
I'm not so much interested in _circuits_, per se, as I am in
learning about topologies, various ideas built upon them, and
then the specific details of designing towards a specific
implementation. For example, I enjoyed learning about
bootstrapping as a general idea _and_ as it applies to a
couple of specific areas. Having both theory _and_ specific
practice helps firm up the ideas better.
I could post some circuits from the old manuals, it that wouldn't
spoil what you want to do.
It may serve as a point of discussion. Would you be willing
to discuss their details and the broader theories as applied?
10 watts into computer speakers sounds like a lot. Most AM radios
didn't make one watt. You might experiment first to see how much power
you really need.
Oh, I figure one watt is enough, too. As a practical matter
and as a consumer using a device and not as a designer trying
to learn something. That's what... 3Vrms? Into 8 ohms? A
voltage gain of 3, given 1Vrms input? I'm wanting to learn
some things, not place one BJT (okay, not really, but it
almost seems like that) down as an emitter follower and then
calling it good.
Up front, I thought I'd like to deal with perhaps something
on the order of about 10Vrms into 8 ohms. I figured that is
enough 'bad' that I'd have to cope with some interesting
corners along the way; but not enough 'bad' that I'd have to
deal with too much all at once.
For example, at around 10 watts or so, it's enough that I may
need to seriously consider avoiding class-A operation of the
output stage and move to class-B, instead. But it is low
enough that there is some room to discuss each, as well as
class-AB biasing, too. More power and I'm almost certain I'm
pushed into class-B. Less power and.. well, who cares that
much? At one watt or so, just class-A and be done with it? I
won't learn the reasoning behind trade-offs that way.
There's more. I just figured at about 10 watts I'm likely to
learn some things but not be forced to learn so much that I'm
overwhelmed.
I'm open to specific advice about all this, of course.
Jon
I like 10 watts as a starting size - at this size you have to start
doing things the way the big amps do, but it is not so big as to be
outrageously expensive, for example you still use a relatively small
power supply, heatsinks, and inexpensive transistors,
You appear to confirm my instincts.
and at the end you
can use it with your PC and really blow those 320 watt PFPO (peak
fantasy power output)speakers away.
Well, mostly I'm just trying to learn... not impress others
about the results.
I like your hesitation on class A. You want an amp with some power
output and class A is very inefficient, never more than 25% and often
way less. This would add greatly to the cost - a 40 watt power supply,
heatsinks capable of getting rid of the same as heat while keeping the
transistor junction temperature low, and beefier transistors. You also
get to put up with a shorter service life from all that heat. The "big
thing" with class A is there is no crossover distortion, which can lead
to better overall distortion figures, but the cost is huge - a kit for 2
x 20 watt class A sells for $600.
Egads. My instincts said class-A would add a lot to weight
and cost, but no idea a mere 20W kit could sell for $300!
10 watts / PPM thd? Mmmm... maybe more like .1 - .05 % are realistic andMy particular bias for an amp this size is to go class AB with a split
power supply. The majority of quality audio amps follow this topology
and this is, I think, I great reason to go down this design path (what
you learn is applicable in the most number of situations). I should hunt
down a schematics of what I'm seeing in the distance (which can/will
change as decisions are made) - some of the justifications will have to
wait
I'm fine with taking things as they come.
As far as the class, I guessed that at 10 watts class-A would
be too power-hungry and probably not worth its weight but
that class-AB might be okay.
I have to warn you, though, that I'm not focused upon some
20ppm THD. I'd like to learn, not design something whose
distortion (or noise, for that matter) is around a bit on a
16-bit DAC or less. I figure winding up close to class-B
operation in the end. But I'd like to take the walk along
the way, so to speak.
a few detours to see what would help or harm that.
Mostly not needed, if you use a long tailed pair for the input / errorThe first step is to think about the output. The basic equations are
(1).....Vout = sqrt(2*P*R)
With R as 8 ohms for a common speaker and 10 watts that is 12.7 volts -
actually +/- 12.7 volts with a split power supply.
If you don't mind, I'd like to discuss this more closely. Not
just have it tossed out. So, P=V*I; or P=Vrms^2/R with AC.
Using Vpeak=SQRT(2)*Vrms, I get your Vpeak=SQRT(2*P*R)
equation. Which suggests the +/-12.7V swing. Which further
suggests, taking Vce drops and any small amounts emitter
resistor drops into account, something along the lines of +/-
14-15V rails?
Or should the rails be cut a lot closer to the edge here to
improve efficiency. What bothers me is saturation as Vce on
the final output BJTs goes well below 1V each and beta goes
away, as well, rapidly soaking up remaining drive compliance.
(2).....Imax = sqrt(2*P/R)
This comes out to 1.6 amps. You should probably also consider the case
when R speaker = 4 ohms when initially selecting a transistor for the
output 2.2 amps - remember this is max output current. The power supply
voltage will have to be somewhat higher than Vout to take into account
circuit drive requirements, ripple on the power supply and transformer
regulation etc.
Okay. I missed reading this when writing the above. Rather
than correct myself, I'll leave my thinking in place.
So yes, the rails will need to be a bit higher. Agreed. On
this subject, I'm curious about the need to _isolate_, just a
little, the rails used by the input stage vs the output stage
rails. I'm thinking an RC (or LC for another pole?) for
isolation. But I honestly don't know if that's helpful, or
not.
amplifier, but you might prefer some other arrangement so keep it in
mind if your circuit "motorboats"
Ah, then there are questions of what voltage and VA for a transformer.Are you OK with connecting mains to a transformer? or would you rather
use an AC plug pack (10 watts is about the biggest amp a plugpack can be
used for)? The "cost" for using an AC plug pack is you will need larger
filter capacitors.
I'd much prefer to __avoid__ using someone else's "pack" for
the supply. All discrete parts should be on the table, so to
speak, in plain view. And I don't imagine _any_ conceptual
difficulties for this portion of the design. I'm reasonably
familiar with transformers, rectifiers, ripple calculations,
and how to consider peak charging currents vs averge load
currents as they relate to the phase angles available for
charging the caps. So on this part, I may need less help
than elsewhere. In other words, I'm somewhat comfortable
here.
So there are questions of usage (music, PA, PA with an emergency alert
siren tied in etc) and rectifier arrangement and capacitor size /
voltage to get your required voltage output at full load.
OK. Next serious project, I'm coming around to your place! Your gear isI should also ask if you have a multi meter, oscilloscope (not necessary
but useful)and how is your soldering? But it would be wise to keep this
whole thing as a paper exercise before you commit to anything.
I have a 6 1/2 digit HP multimeter, a Tek DMM916 true RMS
handheld, two oscilloscopes (TEK 2245 with voltmeter option
and an HP 54645D), three triple-output power supplies with
two of them GPIB drivable, the usual not-too-expensive signal
generator, and a fair bunch of other stuff on the shelves.
Lots of probes, clips, and so on. For soldering, I'm limited
to a Weller WTCPT and some 0.4mm round, 0.8mm spade, and
somewhat wider spade tips in the 1.5mm area. I have tubs and
jars of various types of fluxes, as well, and wire wrap tools
and wire wrap wire, as well. I also have a room set aside
for this kind of stuff, when I get time to play.
better than mine. I had to ask, rather than just assume just in case my
assumptions got you building something you didn't want to, and got you
splattered all over the place from the mains, or suggesting you choose
the miller cap by watching the phase shift of the feedback circuit - I
don't read a lot of the posts so I didn't know what you could do.
Have a look at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_amplifier
The bits on class A might be interesting as it says 25% efficiency and
50% obtainable with inductive output coupling (i.e. with a transformer)
which is what I said, not what blow hard Phil said.