Desoldering hook-up wire

[N Cook]

from binding posts, turret tags, valve base terminals etc especially now
with use of lead-free solder on otherwise 1950s wiring practise.
Because of the extra temperature and heat involved it is no longer possible
to grab the bared end with thin nose pliers ,to sufficiently heatsink and
help in removing the wire. The sleeving will always melt and split etc. Any
tips for doing so ,neatly, where there is not enough slack to cut the end
off and resolder as a shorter wire.

The following does not stop the melting of the ends , but stops the
splitting / obvious raggedness, any other advice?

Some PTFE , through chassis , press fit vias/terminals, for the PTFE only or
some ptfe rod. Drilled axially to a range of diameters and split axially
with a razor and then clamped to the sleeving with a scaled down clothes peg
from toy/craft shop. Then soldering iron and dart point to extract the wire.

Anyone freeze the sleeving ?

While at it , for marking the board with single letters , to denote colour
of wires before desoldering. Because of grey/green, brown/black/blue,
purple/pink - I use V for vert, T for tan, N for noir,L for lilac (purple)


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[PanHandler]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:HrmdnSG2LeE321zVnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@earthlink.com...

I use a digital camera with good macro capability. That way there are
no markings to rub off, or paper notes to lose. I copy the images to
the computer, and leave them in the camera, as well. You can zoom in on
the image if needed, and it is a lot faster than finding a spot to
scribble a note on the chassis. Our assembly documentation, as well as
test procedures used photos to show how the job was to be done when I
worked in manufacturing.

Another advantage of taking photos is when you get something that was
damaged, or modified. You pull up the old images and save hours at your
bench.

Whenever I do a disassembly, I record the entire process with my camcorder,
which is on a tripod looking over my shoulder. I also narrate the trickier
stuff.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

N Cook wrote:

from binding posts, turret tags, valve base terminals etc especially now
with use of lead-free solder on otherwise 1950s wiring practise.
Because of the extra temperature and heat involved it is no longer possible
to grab the bared end with thin nose pliers ,to sufficiently heatsink and
help in removing the wire. The sleeving will always melt and split etc. Any
tips for doing so ,neatly, where there is not enough slack to cut the end
off and resolder as a shorter wire.

The following does not stop the melting of the ends , but stops the
splitting / obvious raggedness, any other advice?

Some PTFE , through chassis , press fit vias/terminals, for the PTFE only or
some ptfe rod. Drilled axially to a range of diameters and split axially
with a razor and then clamped to the sleeving with a scaled down clothes peg
from toy/craft shop. Then soldering iron and dart point to extract the wire.

Anyone freeze the sleeving ?

While at it , for marking the board with single letters , to denote colour
of wires before desoldering. Because of grey/green, brown/black/blue,
purple/pink - I use V for vert, T for tan, N for noir,L for lilac (purple)

I use a digital camera with good macro capability. That way there are
no markings to rub off, or paper notes to lose. I copy the images to
the computer, and leave them in the camera, as well. You can zoom in on
the image if needed, and it is a lot faster than finding a spot to
scribble a note on the chassis. Our assembly documentation, as well as
test procedures used photos to show how the job was to be done when I
worked in manufacturing.

Another advantage of taking photos is when you get something that was
damaged, or modified. You pull up the old images and save hours at your
bench.


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