Cracking open a Galaxy Audio PA amp

David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in
news:4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com:

I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I
can't get the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a
tough little unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a
thick rugged plastic (polypropylene?) case, that can sit on
top of a mike stand. Similar to this one:
http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp
You or someone you know has a digital camera. Take a photo of
the fucking thing, all sides, and post it to a binary group of
your choice or to some stupid site like photobucket or flickr.
It's will considerably improve your chances of opening the
thing.

I for one would like to see what the hell we are talking about.

"Similar to this one" does NOT cut it.



--
"Anytime I hear the word "culture", I reach for my iPad."
- 21st Century Humanoid
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BNCdnXxrdILq2Q3RnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com...
David Nebenzahl wrote:

I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
(polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and
I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.

Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


At least no one has suggested a Plsma Cutter! ;-)

Nah! "Angle grinder" as they always say over on uk.d-i-y :)

Arfa
 
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:_j%jo.16990$n82.14387@newsfe11.ams2...
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BNCdnXxrdILq2Q3RnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com...

David Nebenzahl wrote:

I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
(polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck,
and
I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.

Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


At least no one has suggested a Plsma Cutter! ;-)



Nah! "Angle grinder" as they always say over on uk.d-i-y :)

Arfa
When you loose neg bias on audio output bottles and a hole is burnt through
the anode plate and up to the point the the glass melts and vacuum is lost ,
is that plasma cutting?
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
message news:BNCdnXxrdILq2Q3RnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com
David Nebenzahl wrote:

I inherited a repair job that I can't get started
because I can't get the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a
tough little unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set
into a thick rugged plastic (polypropylene?) case, that
can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to this one:
http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the
chassis has 6 screws into the case, and there's one on
the back I removed, but I still can't get the chassis
out of the case. I tried prying the case, thinking there
might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck,
and I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the
case.

Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


At least no one has suggested a Plasma Cutter! ;-)
IME diamond saws are a more readily available and economical alternative.
This is one of the major changes in tooling of this millennium - industrial
diamonds are now so inexpensive that tools that effectively employ them are
readily available in most big-box home improvement stores. That all said,
this product seems to be composed of materials that are too soft and too
temperature sensitive for effective cutting by diamond-tipped tools or
plasma cutters.
 
Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


At least no one has suggested a Plasma Cutter! ;-)
Nah! "Angle grinder" as they always say over on uk.d-i-y
diamond saws
endoscopes
ring cutters
drop it
tap it with a screwdriver handle
unscrew it
screw it
Explosives. Now THAT'S the ticket!

--
+--------------------------------+
+ Dick Pierce |
+ Professional Audio Development |
+--------------------------------+
 
This product appears to be the pro-audio equivalent of most remote controls.

I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote controls are
generally held together with screws /and/ near-unreleasable tabs. I've never
understood why both are needed.
 
On 9/15/2010 9:52 AM William Sommerwerck spake thus:

This product appears to be the pro-audio equivalent of most remote controls.

I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote controls are
generally held together with screws /and/ near-unreleasable tabs. I've never
understood why both are needed.
No, it's not, and you're misunderstanding the packaging here.

There's a diecast metal front panel which covers the entire front of the
unit, with a deeply set grille for the speaker. Six screws attach the
metal panel to the plastic cabinet.

The plastic cabinet is ONE PIECE, totally seamless, covering the
remaining 5 sides. So it's not a clamshell like most remotes or
similarly packaged electronics.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
 
I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote
controls are generally held together with screws /and/ near-
unreleasable tabs. I've never understood why both are needed.

No, it's not, and you're misunderstanding the packaging here.
My point was about the /philosophy/ of the packaging. Why belts+suspenders,
when only one is needed?
 
On 9/15/2010 10:33 AM William Sommerwerck spake thus:

I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote
controls are generally held together with screws /and/ near-
unreleasable tabs. I've never understood why both are needed.

No, it's not, and you're misunderstanding the packaging here.

My point was about the /philosophy/ of the packaging. Why belts+suspenders,
when only one is needed?
Ah, so. Actually describes my problem here quite well; why doesn't this
damn thing open up when I remove the screws, which seemed to hold the
thing together quite securely?


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)
 
I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote
controls are generally held together with screws /and/ near-
unreleasable tabs. I've never understood why both are needed.

No, it's not, and you're misunderstanding the packaging here.

My point was about the /philosophy/ of the packaging.
Why belts+suspenders, when only one is needed?

I'd have to LMAO if the idiot still hasn't figured out how to
get it apart.

I'm sure it's snapped/latched together especially if the latch
points are not visible. It's a well-adopted method to anyone
who has even minor experience.
Not everyone knows everything about anything. It's interesting that, even
though you haven't seen the unit, you know "fer sure" how it fits together.

I've seen more than my share of remote controls that need tactical nuclear
weapons to dismantle, so I feel /some/ sympathy for this poster.

If the OP is still listening... It might be that you have to "pull like
hell" on the front. It might be that there are no latches, and the panel is
/so/ tight that it's stuck. You might also try removing the speaker (if
there are external screws holding it) and poking around inside.
 
In article <4c8db73c$0$2395$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>, David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
(polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and
I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.

Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?

I would like to see a pic of the rear which i can't find.
I often have to uncover hidden screws in things.
I also have to do alot of prying on things.

greg
 
On 9/13/2010 12:32 AM, David Nebenzahl wrote:
I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
(polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and
I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.

Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


I have a Core PA5X140 hot spot sitting in front of me.
single 5" speaker with amp built in. It really did not want
to open either. It has 6 screws on the front.
a screw on the back. On this unit, there are 1/4" phone jacks on the
rear. These are connected to the internal circuit board. SO, the lock
nuts MUST be taken off the phone jacks before you start the removal process.

On this one, the front face is inset down into the rear shell. My guess
is stictation or such is a factor. First on this unit, i gently pried
around the deal with a razer blade. Then i used a very small flat blade
screw driver to try to break loose the case from the front. Then i kind
of beat on it to see if gravity would help it separate (face down). I
eventually got it apart, but it did not want to easily separate.

bob
 
There's a diecast metal front panel which covers the entire front of the
unit, with a deeply set grille for the speaker. Six screws attach the
metal panel to the plastic cabinet.

The plastic cabinet is ONE PIECE, totally seamless, covering the
remaining 5 sides. So it's not a clamshell like most remotes or
similarly packaged electronics.
Many years ago, I had to take apart a Philbrick K2-XA (those of you
old enough to remember this op-amp will realize how long ago). I
couldn't figure it out and called the factory. One of the engineers
told me the plastic case came in two halves and they were glued
together at the factory. The cases were so cheap that when a unit came
back for repair the case was split with a chisel, and after the repair
was complete a new case was glued on.
 
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 10:33:24 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote controls
are generally held together with screws /and/ near- unreleasable tabs.
I've never understood why both are needed.

No, it's not, and you're misunderstanding the packaging here.

My point was about the /philosophy/ of the packaging. Why
belts+suspenders, when only one is needed?
I'd have to LMAO if the idiot still hasn't figured out how to get it
apart.

I'm sure it's snapped/latched together especially if the latch points are
not visible. It's a well adopted method to anyone who has even minor
experience




--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
 
On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:27:25 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

I'm sure most people in this group have noticed how remote controls
are generally held together with screws /and/ near- unreleasable
tabs. I've never understood why both are needed.

No, it's not, and you're misunderstanding the packaging here.

My point was about the /philosophy/ of the packaging. Why
belts+suspenders, when only one is needed?

I'd have to LMAO if the idiot still hasn't figured out how to get it
apart.

I'm sure it's snapped/latched together especially if the latch points
are not visible. It's a well-adopted method to anyone who has even
minor experience.

Not everyone knows everything about anything. It's interesting that,
even though you haven't seen the unit, you know "fer sure" how it fits
together.
Yes I'm sure because it makes sense. Unless you can think of something
else that makes sense.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
 
Arfa Daily wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:BNCdnXxrdILq2Q3RnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com...

David Nebenzahl wrote:

I inherited a repair job that I can't get started because I can't get
the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a tough little
unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set into a thick rugged plastic
(polypropylene?) case, that can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to
this one: http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the chassis has
6 screws into the case, and there's one on the back I removed, but I
still can't get the chassis out of the case. I tried prying the case,
thinking there might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck, and
I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the case.

Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


At least no one has suggested a Plsma Cutter! ;-)


Nah! "Angle grinder" as they always say over on uk.d-i-y :)

Angle grinders are for amateurs and wimps. It takes a real prow to
cut something open with a plasma cutter and still have anything left to
repair. :)


--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
 
Dick Pierce wrote:
Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


At least no one has suggested a Plasma Cutter! ;-)
Nah! "Angle grinder" as they always say over on uk.d-i-y
diamond saws
endoscopes
ring cutters
drop it
tap it with a screwdriver handle
unscrew it
screw it

Explosives. Now THAT'S the ticket!

Primacord.


--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
 
Arny Krueger wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
message news:BNCdnXxrdILq2Q3RnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com
David Nebenzahl wrote:

I inherited a repair job that I can't get started
because I can't get the damn amp open.

It's a Galaxy Audio Core PA5X140 all-in-one PA. It's a
tough little unit, with a die-cast metal chassis set
into a thick rugged plastic (polypropylene?) case, that
can sit on top of a mike stand. Similar to this one:
http://galaxyaudio.com/MSPA.jsp. The front of the
chassis has 6 screws into the case, and there's one on
the back I removed, but I still can't get the chassis
out of the case. I tried prying the case, thinking there
might be some cast-in lugs I could open, but no luck,
and I didn't want to risk chewing up the edge of the
case.

Does anyone have any idea how to open up this unit?


At least no one has suggested a Plasma Cutter! ;-)

IME diamond saws are a more readily available and economical alternative.
This is one of the major changes in tooling of this millennium - industrial
diamonds are now so inexpensive that tools that effectively employ them are
readily available in most big-box home improvement stores. That all said,
this product seems to be composed of materials that are too soft and too
temperature sensitive for effective cutting by diamond-tipped tools or
plasma cutters.

A diamond saw? Save that to remodel your bathroom. :)


--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
 
Not everyone knows everything about anything. It's interesting
that, even though you haven't seen the unit, you know "fer sure"
how it fits together.

Yes I'm sure because it makes sense. Unless you can think
of something else that makes sense.
I like to say I would rather be wrong because I express a carefully
considered point of view, than right because I agree with everyone else. So
on that basis, I'm on your side.

I suspect that, as I said in the preceding post, something is badly stuck
and won't come loose. By "stuck", I do /not/ mean "held in place with
clips". I mean "jammed in some way".
 

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