Computer runs faster because it is soldered.. haha..

[Meat Plow]

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:17:39 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsan.2011.02.14.18.28.30@lmao.lol.lol...
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:44:27 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:


Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
and it was ÂŁ10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it from
my usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it was a
factory-original part.

Good price. It probably came directly from China from the same
factory that supplies the displays to Apple. I get quite a few parts
that way through Hong Kong. However, there are some parts which are
simply unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices. Cosmetic parts,
custom chips, and wear parts (i.e. power jacks, controls, keyboards,
touchpads, hinges, rubber feet, etc) tend to be difficult to find.
Most of these I buy from eBay vendors that cannibalize machines and
sell the parts. Without used parts, many of the repairs that I'm
doing would be either uneconomical or impossible. I could not build
the business on purchasing new parts from the original manufacturer.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com


The company I use is

http://www.parts4ipods.com

Not much use to you as a leftpondian, but as you can see, they do a
lot of Apple parts, including some cosmetics and touch screens.

Arfa


Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart? It has a .5mm streak going
from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just short of
the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the streak does
not appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the LCD just the
lighting. Does this sound right? I don't want to mess with trying to
pry it apart and bend it all up but I would like to see if there is
something that can be done first without buying a replacement panel.


--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

I agree with Jeff. The problem is most likely the display itself or a
connection to it. They come apart quite easily, once you have got one
side started. there are lots of videos on You Tube. The English on this
one is crap, but the actual video shows it all quite well, except that
they don't show any screws down the sides once you have the case off.
There have been tiny screws in all the ones I've seen, but they are
obvious.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYE9VF-9-kw&feature=related

Trickiest bit I've found is when you come to put it back together, and
you have to get the centre button in the control ring to stay correctly
in place, as you try to get the ring to locate in the case front. Not
ultimately hard exactly, just fiddly, and a bit frustrating the first
ten times that it falls back out ...

Arfa

How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
pic of it and put it on photobucket:

This is with backlight:
<http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg>

This is with reflected light only:
<http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg>

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected light.




--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

 

[Arfa Daily]

Arfa

How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
pic of it and put it on photobucket:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the
screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected
light.




Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the

second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how the
things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that it's a
ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly being thick
enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless someone else knows,
I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of weeks ago, back out of
the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as always !!) and see if I
can see what lights it

Arfa

 

[JW]

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote in Message id: <pan.2011.02.15.18.53.59@lmao.lol.lol>:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:17:39 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsan.2011.02.14.18.28.30@lmao.lol.lol...
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:44:27 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:


Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
and it was Ł10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it from
my usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it was a
factory-original part.

Good price. It probably came directly from China from the same
factory that supplies the displays to Apple. I get quite a few parts
that way through Hong Kong. However, there are some parts which are
simply unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices. Cosmetic parts,
custom chips, and wear parts (i.e. power jacks, controls, keyboards,
touchpads, hinges, rubber feet, etc) tend to be difficult to find.
Most of these I buy from eBay vendors that cannibalize machines and
sell the parts. Without used parts, many of the repairs that I'm
doing would be either uneconomical or impossible. I could not build
the business on purchasing new parts from the original manufacturer.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com


The company I use is

http://www.parts4ipods.com

Not much use to you as a leftpondian, but as you can see, they do a
lot of Apple parts, including some cosmetics and touch screens.

Arfa


Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart? It has a .5mm streak going
from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just short of
the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the streak does
not appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the LCD just the
lighting. Does this sound right? I don't want to mess with trying to
pry it apart and bend it all up but I would like to see if there is
something that can be done first without buying a replacement panel.


--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

I agree with Jeff. The problem is most likely the display itself or a
connection to it. They come apart quite easily, once you have got one
side started. there are lots of videos on You Tube. The English on this
one is crap, but the actual video shows it all quite well, except that
they don't show any screws down the sides once you have the case off.
There have been tiny screws in all the ones I've seen, but they are
obvious.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYE9VF-9-kw&feature=related

Trickiest bit I've found is when you come to put it back together, and
you have to get the centre button in the control ring to stay correctly
in place, as you try to get the ring to locate in the case front. Not
ultimately hard exactly, just fiddly, and a bit frustrating the first
ten times that it falls back out ...

Arfa

How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
pic of it and put it on photobucket:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected light.

I know you say you never abused it, but it's almost like a scuff between
the CFL and the rear of the LCD panel. That might explain why you only see
when the backlight is on and light is (trying) to get though. IMO, it's
too random to be the LCD panel itself.

 

[Meat Plow]

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

Arfa

How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can
take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
reflected light.




Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of
weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as
always !!) and see if I can see what lights it

Arfa

Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl. And
even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear. When
you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special tool?
The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the buckles
apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new display
is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me want to
try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be some bad
soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out of the
blue, no reason.

Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB unit
with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but I'll
have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected light.

Weird. I thought you meant a line, not a smear. The iPod and most
Apple displays have a polarization filter as part of the display
sandwich in order to improve the contrast without backlighting. Try
wearing a pair of polarizing sunglasses and you'll see the display go
black at some angle. My guess(tm) is that there's some damage to the
polarizing screen.

Change your viewing angle of the display showing the smear, and see if
the black smear shifts with respect to the background image. If it
does shift, then it's not on the LCD layer, but rather something above
it, like the polarizing filter. If it doesn't shift, it's either the
LCD or the backlighting layer.

Any chance you could identify the exact model instead of just 30GB
iPod?
<http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod_Original>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Meat Plow]

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 09:49:58 -0500, JW wrote:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com
wrote in Message id: <pan.2011.02.15.18.53.59@lmao.lol.lol>:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:17:39 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsan.2011.02.14.18.28.30@lmao.lol.lol...
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:44:27 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:


Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
and it was ÂŁ10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it
from my usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it
was a factory-original part.

Good price. It probably came directly from China from the same
factory that supplies the displays to Apple. I get quite a few
parts that way through Hong Kong. However, there are some parts
which are simply unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices.
Cosmetic parts, custom chips, and wear parts (i.e. power jacks,
controls, keyboards, touchpads, hinges, rubber feet, etc) tend to
be difficult to find. Most of these I buy from eBay vendors that
cannibalize machines and sell the parts. Without used parts, many
of the repairs that I'm doing would be either uneconomical or
impossible. I could not build the business on purchasing new parts
from the original manufacturer.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com


The company I use is

http://www.parts4ipods.com

Not much use to you as a leftpondian, but as you can see, they do a
lot of Apple parts, including some cosmetics and touch screens.

Arfa


Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart? It has a .5mm streak
going from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just
short of the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the
streak does not appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the
LCD just the lighting. Does this sound right? I don't want to mess
with trying to pry it apart and bend it all up but I would like to
see if there is something that can be done first without buying a
replacement panel.


--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

I agree with Jeff. The problem is most likely the display itself or a
connection to it. They come apart quite easily, once you have got one
side started. there are lots of videos on You Tube. The English on
this one is crap, but the actual video shows it all quite well, except
that they don't show any screws down the sides once you have the case
off. There have been tiny screws in all the ones I've seen, but they
are obvious.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYE9VF-9-kw&feature=related

Trickiest bit I've found is when you come to put it back together, and
you have to get the centre button in the control ring to stay
correctly in place, as you try to get the ring to locate in the case
front. Not ultimately hard exactly, just fiddly, and a bit frustrating
the first ten times that it falls back out ...

Arfa

How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
pic of it and put it on photobucket:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
the screen. It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see
with reflected light.

I know you say you never abused it, but it's almost like a scuff between
the CFL and the rear of the LCD panel. That might explain why you only
see when the backlight is on and light is (trying) to get though. IMO,
it's too random to be the LCD panel itself.

Seeing one apart I don't see how the back of the LCD could get scuffed.
Nothing can really move being buckled in. Looking at the unit overall
there are some scuffs and scratches that i would consider normal wear.
Nothing along the lines of an impact. I may open it today if I can find
the right plastic tool.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

 

[Meat Plow]

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 09:11:56 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com
wrote:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
the screen. It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see
with reflected light.

Weird. I thought you meant a line, not a smear. The iPod and most
Apple displays have a polarization filter as part of the display
sandwich in order to improve the contrast without backlighting. Try
wearing a pair of polarizing sunglasses and you'll see the display go
black at some angle. My guess(tm) is that there's some damage to the
polarizing screen.

Change your viewing angle of the display showing the smear, and see if
the black smear shifts with respect to the background image. If it does
shift, then it's not on the LCD layer, but rather something above it,
like the polarizing filter. If it doesn't shift, it's either the LCD or
the backlighting layer.

Any chance you could identify the exact model instead of just 30GB iPod?
http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod_Original

Model A1136 Video Ipod, color. The lines or smears do not change when
backlit and viewed at any angle. Nor do they appear when viewed at any
angle with no backlight. There are no dents or dings of any kind on the
unit. Just normal scuffing from being placed and removed from a
protective leather case. This was previously owned by a relative who
takes very good care of her things. She also has a 160 GB video Ipod and
a Ipod Touch. I asked her if she can remember dropping it and she said no
and that she would have remembered doing so.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsan.2011.02.16.14.10.58@lmao.lol.lol...

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

Arfa

How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can
take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
reflected light.




Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of
weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as
always !!) and see if I can see what lights it

Arfa


Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl. And
even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear. When
you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special tool?
The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the buckles
apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new display
is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me want to
try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be some bad
soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out of the
blue, no reason.

Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB unit
with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but I'll
have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.

You don't need any special tool to get the clips to spring - although some
replacement batteries I've seen advertised, come with that tool to
facilitate fitting by Joe Public. I use an Excelite scalpel with a blunt
curved blade. It easily gets in there, and springs the clips.

The Touch is also quite easy to get into, again using the scalpel. but you
have to be careful not to crack the touchscreen. If you can find a piece of
thin stiff plastic - maybe an old filed down credit card or something - it
may be safer for your first attempt. The case springs off from the front.
You have to get into the small crack between the glass of the touchscreen,
and the metal case back, where it curves around to meet the glass. The LCD
display, and touchscreen glass are fitted together into a thin plastic
'frame' that completely surrounds the four edges, and it is to this frame
that the case is clipped. So, once you have started to insert your springing
tool, before you have gone in too far, you need to bend the 'free' end of it
in towards the screen, so that the inserted end is moving away from the
crack. The tool tip will then slide down the outside of the thin frame,
inside the metal cover. Once it has gone down there, you can bend the tool
back up away from the screen, and this will flex the metal case off the
plastic frame. Once it has started to open like this, it's just a case then
of following round the four sides until it's off. It's that first insertion
that's critical if you are using a metal blade. If you accidentally get
between the thin plastic frame and the glass, when you try to flex the case
off, you will instead crack the display. Don't ask me how I know this ...

All of the component parts of the display are available for very reasonable
prices, but the frame, touchscreen and display form a well-stuck-together
assembly, and it's a lot of effort to successfully get it apart to replace
either a broken touchscreen, or display, so you end up buying a replacement
ready assembled unit.

If you look on that parts site I pointed you at, I think that they have a
picture of the assembly, so you can see what I mean about the thin frame
that you have to be on the outside of, when you insert your tool (!) I'm
sure that there are probably dismantling videos on You Tube, as well.

The headphone problem will not be a soldering job. The sockets are notorious
for going bad (also on Classics). The good news is that once you're inside
the unit, it is a straightforward job to replace it. It comes complete on
its own flexiprint, ready to just plug in to a little zif connector, and it
is extremely reasonably priced. I think I paid just a few quid delivered for
the last one I got - say $5 in leftpondian wonga.

One last thing to watch out for. The touchscreen is connected to the main
board with an almost microscopic plug on the end of its flexiprint. It's
very tricky to get it to reconnect correctly the first time you ever do one.
It's a bit like one of those tiny tiny coax plugs that you find on the wifi
antenna in laptops, in that delicate as it *appears* to be, it actually
needs to be pushed *really* firmly once you are happy that it is sitting
squarely over the socket on the main board. It will then go with a really
solid click. If it doesn't do this, your touchscreen will be intermittent or
inoperative when you get the unit all back together. The thing that makes
this final operation tricky to do, is that the flexiprint 'tail' with the
plug on it, is very short.

With a bit of care, I wouldn't expect someone of your experience to struggle
too much with the job. Let us know how you get on with it.

Arfa

 

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 02:38:07 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsan.2011.02.16.14.10.58@lmao.lol.lol...
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

Arfa

How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I
can take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:

This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg

This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg

As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
reflected light.




Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple
of weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and
overflowing, as always !!) and see if I can see what lights it

Arfa


Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl.
And even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear.
When you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special
tool? The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the
buckles apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new
display is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me
want to try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be
some bad soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out
of the blue, no reason.

Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB
unit with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but
I'll have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.



You don't need any special tool to get the clips to spring - although
some replacement batteries I've seen advertised, come with that tool to
facilitate fitting by Joe Public. I use an Excelite scalpel with a blunt
curved blade. It easily gets in there, and springs the clips.

The Touch is also quite easy to get into, again using the scalpel. but
you have to be careful not to crack the touchscreen. If you can find a
piece of thin stiff plastic - maybe an old filed down credit card or
something - it may be safer for your first attempt. The case springs off
from the front. You have to get into the small crack between the glass
of the touchscreen, and the metal case back, where it curves around to
meet the glass. The LCD display, and touchscreen glass are fitted
together into a thin plastic 'frame' that completely surrounds the four
edges, and it is to this frame that the case is clipped. So, once you
have started to insert your springing tool, before you have gone in too
far, you need to bend the 'free' end of it in towards the screen, so
that the inserted end is moving away from the crack. The tool tip will
then slide down the outside of the thin frame, inside the metal cover.
Once it has gone down there, you can bend the tool back up away from the
screen, and this will flex the metal case off the plastic frame. Once it
has started to open like this, it's just a case then of following round
the four sides until it's off. It's that first insertion that's critical
if you are using a metal blade. If you accidentally get between the thin
plastic frame and the glass, when you try to flex the case off, you will
instead crack the display. Don't ask me how I know this ...

All of the component parts of the display are available for very
reasonable prices, but the frame, touchscreen and display form a
well-stuck-together assembly, and it's a lot of effort to successfully
get it apart to replace either a broken touchscreen, or display, so you
end up buying a replacement ready assembled unit.

If you look on that parts site I pointed you at, I think that they have
a picture of the assembly, so you can see what I mean about the thin
frame that you have to be on the outside of, when you insert your tool
(!) I'm sure that there are probably dismantling videos on You Tube, as
well.

The headphone problem will not be a soldering job. The sockets are
notorious for going bad (also on Classics). The good news is that once
you're inside the unit, it is a straightforward job to replace it. It
comes complete on its own flexiprint, ready to just plug in to a little
zif connector, and it is extremely reasonably priced. I think I paid
just a few quid delivered for the last one I got - say $5 in leftpondian
wonga.

One last thing to watch out for. The touchscreen is connected to the
main board with an almost microscopic plug on the end of its flexiprint.
It's very tricky to get it to reconnect correctly the first time you
ever do one. It's a bit like one of those tiny tiny coax plugs that you
find on the wifi antenna in laptops, in that delicate as it *appears* to
be, it actually needs to be pushed *really* firmly once you are happy
that it is sitting squarely over the socket on the main board. It will
then go with a really solid click. If it doesn't do this, your
touchscreen will be intermittent or inoperative when you get the unit
all back together. The thing that makes this final operation tricky to
do, is that the flexiprint 'tail' with the plug on it, is very short.

With a bit of care, I wouldn't expect someone of your experience to
struggle too much with the job. Let us know how you get on with it.

Arfa

Will do mate thanks for taking the time to explain in that detail. it
boosts my confidence tremendously. I'll tackle the 30 tomorrow I'm very
curious just what the damn screen is made of.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse