Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge.. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running.. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
It just occurred to me. You have the fridge to chill all the laptops so you can overclock them!!!
Not really. They are air-cooled.
Here\'s the most direct route to solving your problem. Get a microwave that is 600 watts, rather than the behemoth 1500 watt monster. Do you actual defrost turkeys in it?
It\'s fairly standard sized microwave.
I still don\'t understand Fred\'s concern about relay switching the fridge. I got some 30A relay contacts that should be enough. Half of the laptops have batteries, which I can also relay switch off while using the microwave.
On 9/24/2023 6:35 PM, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 5:43:06â¯PM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/24/2023 4:08 PM, Eddy Lee wrote:
There are 4 breakers and 3 empty slots in the panel. I guess they
really cut corners in this apartment. I might add some more
breakers, but making holes for wires is the problem.
The fact that it would likely get you tossed out of the apartment
might factor into your decision (as it would put the owner\'s
liability front and center should some OTHER tenant suffer harm
or loss as a result of your actions).
Note that you also need to know how the panel is *fed*
(what ampacity circuit).
And, running cable is not likely to be easy in \"old works\".
Note that you won\'t be able to claim \"the wires were there\"
as the wire will have a date code imprinted on it
every few feet (unless you happen to have some old
wire on hand that predates your occupancy).
Seems considerably easier to just change your usage patterns.
I\'ll try not to use the electric stove and microwave at the same time,
although they are on separate breakers. I\'d have to unplug the fridge
to use the microwave.
The Code requires dedicated circuits for these major appliances
precisely to eliminate the nuisances that arise from two or more
of them being used concurrently.
When people are \"plagued\" by
nuisance trips, they look for ways to BYPASS those safety devices
(that are simply doing their jobs; the Code frowns on this sort
of behavior and tries to anticipate it).
[Ever notice how many/few receptacles are on each branch circuit?
Do you really think they expect you to plug vacuum cleaners
into ALL of them??]
Note that there is an EXPLICIT exception that *allows* a fridge
(which is classified as a major appliance and thus requires a
dedicated branch circuit) to be placed on one of the \"small
appliance\" counter circuits
-- but \"best practices\" (i.e., anyone
who isn\'t pinching pennies) will always have the fridge on a
15-20A dedicated circuit (of course, an apartment application
could be rationalized as not needing to support a big fridge).
Neighbor complained to me that his fridge would \"go off\" whenever
he used his microwave oven. His home was wired with the fridge
on the small appliance (counter) circuit. The *9* amps that the
nice *Viking* fridge would draw (peak), when inconveniently timed with
the microwave\'s sudden use, would promptly take out the counter
circuit.
\"Move the microwave elsewhere or get a new DEDICATED branch circuit
installed -- like every NEW home!\"
[I\'ve heard this complaint (counter breaker tripping) so often that
my stock response is:Â \"Check to see if your refrigerator is on the
same branch circuit\" as it almost always is (and appliance salesmen
aren\'t keen on telling you that you need an electrician to come
out and install a new branch circuit BEFORE they can sell you that
shiny new fridge!)]
Ditto for a freezer, etc.
But, people don\'t read the Code so don\'t understand what it tries to
anticipate... (\"Gee, this only draws X << 20A so I can put it on
the counter circuit!\")
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine.
Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the
microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating:Â dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc.
Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
I still don\'t understand Fred\'s concern about relay switching the fridge. I got some 30A relay contacts that should be enough. Half of the laptops have batteries, which I can also relay switch off while using the microwave.
The induction motors in fridge compressors have low starting torque so
they don\'t start easily if the system has pressure already
Starting the compressor too soon after it last stopped can result in
it stalling.
Typically this causes it to overheat ans trip the thermal breaker.
(Klixon type thing) once it cools down and the breaker resets (
automatically) the pressure will have then dissipated and it will
start.
This increases wear in the breaker and thermal aging on the
compressor, but it won\'t break anything immediately.
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:39:07â¯PM UTC-4, Tabby wrote:
On Monday, 25 September 2023 at 09:39:26 UTC+1, Ricky wrote:
The only individual heavy load is the microwave which ranges from 600W to 1,400W, depending on size.
Output. Consumption is about 1.2kW - 2kW
I\'ve never seen a 120V appliance draw over 1440W. But then here it\'s very uncommon to see 20A circuits.
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge.. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running.. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:43:34â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don\'t know why you didn\'t include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn\'t have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn\'t be Eddie Lee.
On Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 3:28:37?PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
I have microwave, fridge and 10 laptops on a 20A circuit. Fine most of the time until I use the microwave. Should I try a 22 Amp Interrupting Circuit breaker? Existing one might be 10AIC.
I think you mean 10KAIC, which is not directly related to trip current as much as breaker contact construction. Plug the smallest load, laptop (?), into a different less loaded circuit via extension cord. Or wire a new circuit, which doesn\'t have to be all the way to the panel, it can be a tap off an existing circuit in the proximity.
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 12:50:45â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:43:34â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don\'t know why you didn\'t include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn\'t have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn\'t be Eddie Lee.
Is 0.4A out of 20A such an important factor? Or you are missing the point..
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 9:58:29â¯AM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 12:50:45â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:43:34â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else.. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don\'t know why you didn\'t include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn\'t have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn\'t be Eddie Lee.
Is 0.4A out of 20A such an important factor? Or you are missing the point.
As usual, your math is not up to par. Where do you get 0.4A???
The fridge is 1.2A.
The ice maker is 1.2A.
The defroster is 1.5A.
I\'m sure I am missing the point. But that\'s because, like all of your projects, you can\'t provide the information in a clear manner. You have to scatter it over many posts, in many forms such that the only real project is trying to understand what you are asking about.
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 10:59:42â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 9:58:29â¯AM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 12:50:45â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:43:34â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don\'t know why you didn\'t include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn\'t have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn\'t be Eddie Lee.
Is 0.4A out of 20A such an important factor? Or you are missing the point.
As usual, your math is not up to par. Where do you get 0.4A???
OK, 1.5A - 1.2A, or 0.3A. So, I am off by 0.1A out of 20A.
The fridge is 1.2A.
The ice maker is 1.2A.
The defroster is 1.5A.
I\'m sure I am missing the point. But that\'s because, like all of your projects, you can\'t provide the information in a clear manner. You have to scatter it over many posts, in many forms such that the only real project is trying to understand what you are asking about.
You point out that the defroster is unusually high, which is 0.3A more than typical running power. My point is that 0.3A is not an important factor. Unless you are missing the point, the decimal point.
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 2:07:10â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 10:59:42â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 9:58:29â¯AM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 12:50:45â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:43:34â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value.. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don\'t know why you didn\'t include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn\'t have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn\'t be Eddie Lee.
Is 0.4A out of 20A such an important factor? Or you are missing the point.
As usual, your math is not up to par. Where do you get 0.4A???
OK, 1.5A - 1.2A, or 0.3A. So, I am off by 0.1A out of 20A.
The fridge is 1.2A.
The ice maker is 1.2A.
The defroster is 1.5A.
I\'m sure I am missing the point. But that\'s because, like all of your projects, you can\'t provide the information in a clear manner. You have to scatter it over many posts, in many forms such that the only real project is trying to understand what you are asking about.
You point out that the defroster is unusually high, which is 0.3A more than typical running power. My point is that 0.3A is not an important factor. Unless you are missing the point, the decimal point.
Why do you read things that I don\'t write??? This is why it is so difficult to help you. My point is that you are difficult to get accurate info from. This makes it difficult to know what you are talking about. It\'s not just this one number. I have said several times that you have failed repeatedly to provide clear information about the overall project.
Good luck on your project.
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 12:45:32â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 2:07:10â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 10:59:42â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 9:58:29â¯AM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 12:50:45â¯AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:43:34â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 7:55:48â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:57:02â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 1:39:33â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 4:25:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 12:31:34â¯PM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 2:44:39â¯PM UTC-4, Eddy Lee wrote:
On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 11:22:16â¯AM UTC-7, Don Y wrote:
On 9/25/2023 9:05 AM, Eddy Lee wrote:
If I unplug the fridge, or when it\'s silence, microwave is fine. Sound like I need a relay circuit to disable the fridge from the microwave. Namely, a fridge outlet on the microwave.
What\'s the nameplate rating of the microwave? Does *it* say
it requires a dedicated circuit? (because it draws more than
half of the rated branch circuit\'s ampacity)
The countertops, in kitchens, tend to see lots of large
loads that are often running concurrently. Toaster,
toaster oven, countertop oven (e.g., all the toaster
ovens on steroids that you see advertised on TV),
stand/hand mixer, electric frying pan, *TV*, etc.
Add to this the other large loads that folks tend to
think nothing of activating: dishwasher, garbage disposal,
microwave, \"instant hot water\", etc. Imagine mindlessly
turning on the garbage disposal (for 10 seconds) and
tripping a breaker because it shared a branch circuit
with some other appliance...
You *don\'t* want to unplug/replug the refrigerator
(which is what a relay would do) as this can confuse
the defrost timer and (for poorly designed controls)
lead to the compressor starting under a (mechanical)
load that hasn\'t yet had time to dissipate (smart
controls will inhibit the compressor for its required
dead time on initial application of power for exactly
this reason -- but, then, you would risk the compressor
always \"waiting\" even without cause)
[Microwave ovens tend to see frequent, brief use.
Would you want your refrigerator being unplugged
each time you throw something in the microwave
for 15 seconds?]
And, refrigerators (if disabled due to a tripped breaker)
risk having their contents spoil. So, you\'d like the
refrigerator to be the sole item that can cause *its*
breaker to trip (imagine the instant hot water unit
thermostatically cycled on and silently took out the
breaker for the refrigerator... which you happen to
discover the next *morning*). Ditto the dishwasher
or any other appliance that can \"safely\" sit, powered
off, with no ill effects (e.g., the dishes are still dirty
but aren\'t getting any *dirtier* in the absence of mains!)
Fridge: 310KWhr/year = 35W average (no info on motor)
Microwave: 1500W
Laptops: 60W to 90W.
No dishwasher or coffee pot.
I like that you provided the \"average\" power draw of the fridge. How do you expect to use that in solving your problem?
You answered your question in another post:
\"Typically a refrigerator runs on 35% duty cycle, (65% for a freezer). This means that if you take the running watts and multiply it by 35%, you can get an idea as to how much power the average running amps will be.\"
I\'m pretty sure I didn\'t post that. Regardless, that would be a combination of an average with a rule of thumb, so not of much value. The point is, your appliance has a plate with the actual power rating while running. Why don\'t you look at that? Not the motor, the appliance. You\'ve also said nothing about the size of this appliance. Is it a dorm room size fridge? A massive double door kitchen behemoth? Something in between? As is usual with you, only the barest minimum of information is provided and then the guessing begins.
There is an energy guide tag saying 310 KWhr/year. Nothing else. Detail info might be at the back of the fridge. Too heavy to pull the fridge out when loaded.
Ok, but that\'s not the same as \"nothing else\". It just means you don\'t know the wattage and you won\'t do what it takes to find it. Can you read a model number somewhere? Did you look inside the fridge?
OK, GE GPE12FGKDWW
1.2A 115VAC
Ice maker power:145W
Defrost power:180W
Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don\'t know why you didn\'t include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn\'t have needed to make the post at all. But then, that wouldn\'t be Eddie Lee.
Is 0.4A out of 20A such an important factor? Or you are missing the point.
As usual, your math is not up to par. Where do you get 0.4A???
OK, 1.5A - 1.2A, or 0.3A. So, I am off by 0.1A out of 20A.
The fridge is 1.2A.
The ice maker is 1.2A.
The defroster is 1.5A.
I\'m sure I am missing the point. But that\'s because, like all of your projects, you can\'t provide the information in a clear manner. You have to scatter it over many posts, in many forms such that the only real project is trying to understand what you are asking about.
You point out that the defroster is unusually high, which is 0.3A more than typical running power. My point is that 0.3A is not an important factor. Unless you are missing the point, the decimal point.
Why do you read things that I don\'t write??? This is why it is so difficult to help you. My point is that you are difficult to get accurate info from. This makes it difficult to know what you are talking about. It\'s not just this one number. I have said several times that you have failed repeatedly to provide clear information about the overall project.
Good luck on your project.
You said:
\"Your defroster uses more power than the fridge. I don\'t know why you didn\'t include this info in your first post. You should have included the power of all the devices. Then you wouldn\'t have needed to make the post at all.. But then, that wouldn\'t be Eddie Lee.\"
Is 0.3A more that important?
On Sunday, September 24, 2023 at 12:28:37â¯PM UTC-7, Eddy Lee wrote:
I have microwave, fridge and 10 laptops on a 20A circuit. Fine most of the time until I use the microwave.
OK, I figure out that the hood fan and waste disposal are on dedicated circuit, and the microwave should tap into this circuit. So, i need to do a few things:
1. Both outlets under the sink are switched. That\'s wrong.
Have to fix the wiring.
2. Drill a hole on the side of the sink cabinet and run a wire to the microwave.
3. Never turn on hood fan, waste disposal and microwave at the same time.