Chip with simple program for Toy

[ehsjr]

jasen wrote:

On 2006-12-04, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote:

John Whittaker wrote:

Ok, more meat for the bones. The device is an electronic locker for the
rear end of my Jeep. The locker is engaged by an electromagnetic, and the
more current you allow it, the more it locks up. I would like to be able to
have a three position switch that would allow 1. no current, 2. 12 volts,
but limit the amperage to only 1 amp, and 3. 12 volts, and the total draw,
where it would be around 7 amps. This would allow me to have a limited slip
in one position, a stronger limited slip in the second, and the differential
completely locked up in the third and final. (even with no current, the
differential still has limited slip capability) Hope that helps.

John Whittaker





This will do it:


+12---+---o> o1
|
| o2------------+---[Ry1]---+
o | |
| o3---+--->|---+----|<-----+
Ry-1 |<| | |
N/O | +--------+---[Ry2]---+--- Gnd
| | |
| |<| RY2 +-----|<----+
| | | N/O
+-------o o------------------------+
| |
[.5R] |
| ----- |
+------+----Vin|LM317|Vout---+ |
| | ----- | |
| | Adj [1.2R] |
[TVS] [.1uF] | | |
| | +----------+-----+--- To locker
| |
Gnd ----+------+------------------------------- To Locker

The LM317 will need to be on a good heatsink.


What's the TVS for?

That was described in the part you snipped.

I can see it destroying the LM317 if a surge hits with
both relays energised.

Sounds valid. Would you like to add a diode?

the locker mechanism is likely a large electromagnet.

when RY2 opens you've got more problems. the inductance of the electromagnet
will fly back and exceed the voltage rating of the 317.

Sounds valid. Would you like to add a diode?

the locker mechanism is likely a large electromagnet.
but with a DC supply it's behavior is basically that of a resistor,

7A from 13.5V is pretty close to 2 ohms, another 11 in series will get him
close to 1A and avoids delicate semiconductors and the need for a heatsink.

So, keep the relays and replace the electronics
(everything below RY2 N/O on the diagram) with
11 ohms at say 20 watts?

Ed

ventilation is still needed.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[jasen]

On 2006-12-07, ehsjr <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote:

This will do it:

+12---+---o> o1
|
| o2------------+---[Ry1]---+
o | |
| o3---+--->|---+----|<-----+
Ry-1 |<| | |
N/O | +--------+---[Ry2]---+--- Gnd
| | |
| |<| RY2 +-----|<----+
| | | N/O
+-------o o------------------------+
| |
[.5R] |
| ----- |
+------+----Vin|LM317|Vout---+ |
| | ----- | |
| | Adj [1.2R] |
[TVS] [.1uF] | | |
| | +----------+-----+--- To locker
| |
Gnd ----+------+------------------------------- To Locker

The LM317 will need to be on a good heatsink.

What's the TVS for?

That was described in the part you snipped.

The question was somewhat rhetorical.

I can see it destroying the LM317 if a surge hits with
both relays energised.

Sounds valid. Would you like to add a diode?

(diode "backwards" between vout and vin)
that'd do it, losing the cap and the .5R and connecting the tvs
between Vin and adj could work too.

the locker mechanism is likely a large electromagnet.

when RY2 opens you've got more problems. the inductance of the electromagnet
will fly back and exceed the voltage rating of the 317.

Sounds valid. Would you like to add a diode?

(diode from ground to adj) that'd fix that one.
My mod above might do it too.


I dont think a great deal of precision is needed.

the locker mechanism is likely a large electromagnet.
but with a DC supply it's behavior is basically that of a resistor,

7A from 13.5V is pretty close to 2 ohms, another 11 in series will get him
close to 1A and avoids delicate semiconductors and the need for a heatsink.

So, keep the relays and replace the electronics
(everything below RY2 N/O on the diagram) with
11 ohms at say 20 watts?

I'd just look for a suitable switch if the wiring was
practical, a "0-I-II" three position rocker switch rated
at 10A (and the resistor) would probably do.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Gareth]

terry wrote:

Tyro wrote:
I recently bought a Sony CMT-SPZ90DAB mini hi-fi with a DAB radio. The
aerial provided is a 2m length of wire connected to one female pin of a
a small plastic 3 pin plug which fits into a 3 male pin socket. There
is no other aerial connection. Reception in my area is very poor and I
have lost most of my favourite FM stations, and can receive only 6 DAB
frequencies.

I have a roof top mounted FM Yagi with 50 ohm co-ax and an internal
"slim jim" DAB aerial with 75 ohm co-ax and no way of connecting either
to the radio. Connecting to the single pin or the aerial wire, and
earthing the braid to casing doesn't work.

A Google search provided the following from a 2001 post to this group

"If you *must* go tampering inside this crap radio, connect the coax
inner via a small (100pf?) capacitor to wherever the dangly wire goes,
and the outer by another capacitor to the largest lump of copper you
can
find on the PCB."

Can anyone confirm that this is correct or have any other suggestions?
I know little about radio electronics and would appreciate help from
one of you knowledgeable boffins out there.

Here's hoping.
.
What frequencies do these DAB radios receive.
Satellites? Gigahertz etc.?

DAB is around 220 MHz in England.

OP says he 'lost' his FM stations? Surely he needs an FM band radio to
receive them; using either a whip antenna or connecting to and pointing
his FM antenna in the proper direction?
Question puzzles, sorry.

I think the OP's radio receives (or rather doesn't in the OP's case) FM
as well.

Gareth

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
To reply to me directly:

Replace privacy.net with: totalise DOT co DOT uk and replace me with
gareth.harris

 

[Sjouke Burry]

rspartacus@gmail.com wrote:

I have a reversable motor removed from an Oster breadmaker. I want to
use it on a project because the motor runs very quiet. The motor is a
60Hz 120V motor that has three wire. Red, white and blue. The white
wire goes to nuetral on the AC outlet. The other two wires goes to a
circuit which has two transistors, capacitors and more. When I measure
these two wires they show 120V AC (forward spin) and 150V AC (reverse
spin.)

This motor is probably a DC motor, I don't know for sure. The circuit
board is thrown out and all I have is the motor. How do I power up this
motor?

Thanks

At a quess, a capacitor goes in series with one of the

remaining wires, so white to neutral, the other two to
power, but one of them with the cap in series.
I hope you noted the value of the caps on the cicuit
board , but depending on the size of the motor,
something between 1 and 10 microfarad,200 volts.
When you swith the two wires between direct and cap,
you should reverse the rotation direction.
If you are carefull, the only damage would be
some smoke or a blown fuse if this story does not hold.
Stand well back when you switch the power on.

 

Sjouke Burry wrote:

rspartacus@gmail.com wrote:

I have a reversable motor removed from an Oster breadmaker. I want to
use it on a project because the motor runs very quiet. The motor is a
60Hz 120V motor that has three wire. Red, white and blue. The white
wire goes to nuetral on the AC outlet. The other two wires goes to a
circuit which has two transistors, capacitors and more. When I measure
these two wires they show 120V AC (forward spin) and 150V AC (reverse
spin.)

This motor is probably a DC motor, I don't know for sure. The circuit
board is thrown out and all I have is the motor. How do I power up this
motor?

Thanks

At a quess, a capacitor goes in series with one of the
remaining wires, so white to neutral, the other two to
power, but one of them with the cap in series.
I hope you noted the value of the caps on the cicuit
board , but depending on the size of the motor,
something between 1 and 10 microfarad,200 volts.
When you swith the two wires between direct and cap,
you should reverse the rotation direction.
If you are carefull, the only damage would be
some smoke or a blown fuse if this story does not hold.
Stand well back when you switch the power on.

Doing your initial testing with the thing in series with a lightbulb
should prevent the magic smoke getting out, the light repels any
emergent smoke back inside.
Try some different cap values to maximise its speed. Once done, let it
see real mains, and repeat the cap maximisation exercise but only using
values close to the best one you selected with the lamp.


NT

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<rspartacus@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1165740465.035680.46670@16g2000cwy.googlegroups.com...

It worked. The circuit board was thrown out so I couldn't trace the
circuit. The only hint is that the motor says "2.5 uF" but I could only
find a 12.5 uF, 200V capacitor. I let it run for an hour and it ran
cool. Hooking them up in series with a light bulb, until it began to
run slowly, helped a lot. And Sjouke Burry's guess was correct. Thanks
to all.

Here's a working ascii circuit, in case I forget.

....

That's a PSC motor.

 

[w9gb]

"ehsjr" <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message
news:6dBeh.298$Et5.228@trndny07...

w9gb wrote:
"T-n-T" <lildog@donobi.net> wrote in message
news:071220060930159427%lildog@donobi.net...

Can a 12v windshield wiper pump be run from a wall wart? I am putting
together a mist system for a terrarium, so it will run about 1 minute
2-3 times a day or so. If it will run from a wall wart any suggestions
would be great.

Todd


Wall warts ONLY handle currents up to about 1 Amp - MAX.

Ed

Um, not to give the op hope, but ...
See cat# dctx 1215 from http://www.allelectronics.com/
for a 1.5 amp 12 volt wall wart and cat # 16760 from
http://www.mpja.com/ for a 2 amp 12 volt wall wart.

Yes, these are OLD surplus designs -- new mfg. are generally now avoiding
(that is why they are on the surplus web sites/resellers).
They usually do not stay in the duplex outlet without screw attachment to
cover plate.
Readily available 1 and 2 foot line cord jumpers --- help with this problem.
These older designs stretched the definition of WallWart -- due to
transformer's weight !

New ones are more "brick like" with short AC cord OR use standardized IEC
jack.

gb

gb

 

[chuck]

mohammad.esmaeili@gmail.com wrote:

Hi,
As you know there is an electrical field around each electrostatic
charge. I know how to create an electrostatic field. But I have problem
by creating a "variable electrostatic field". Can you give me a guide?

Thanks in Advance

Well, Mohammad, an electrostatic field is a vector field with both
magnitude and direction. Either can be varied: move the charge to a
different location and the field originally measured will be different.

Chuck

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

 

[terry]

mohammad.esmaeili@gmail.com wrote:

Hi,
As you know there is an electrical field around each electrostatic
charge. I know how to create an electrostatic field. But I have problem
by creating a "variable electrostatic field". Can you give me a guide?

Thanks in Advance
..

1) Vary the distance?
2) Supply the device providing the electrostatic field with a varying
voltage?

 

[Si Ballenger]

On 29 Dec 2006 03:48:43 -0800, "gangu" <lololps009@gmail.com>
wrote:

If you are currently using internet, chances are that your IP address
and port is insecure. You can know your IP address and Port here.
http://www.newsonfocus.com/ip/ .

Hmmm..., your IP address is 61.246.61.59 or
dsl-KK-059.61.246.61.airtelbroadband.in

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"gangu" <lololps009@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1167392923.611011.5070@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com...

If you are currently using internet, chances are that your IP address
and port is insecure. You can know your IP address and Port here.
http://www.---------.com/ip/ .

So what? You can get a real check at http://www.grc.com/intro.htm by running
the Shields Up functions there. He also warns about many other security
risks with the ever leaky Windows:-

The DCOMbobulator1,487,973 downloads.DCOMbobulator allows any Windows user
to easily verify the effectiveness of Microsoft's recent critical DCOM
patch. Confirmed reports have demonstrated that the patch is not always
effective in eliminating DCOM's remote exploit vulnerability. But more
importantly, since DCOM is a virtually unused and unneeded facility, the
DCOMbobulator allows any Windows user to easily disable DCOM for
significantly greater security.

Shoot The Messenger1,872,130 downloads.Even before the latest DCOM/RPC
vulnerability (see above), many Windows users were being annoyed by "pop-up
spam" notices appearing on their desktops. This intrusion is also
facilitated by an exploitation of port 135. Our free "Shoot The Messenger"
utility furthers the security of Windows by quickly and easily shutting down
the "Windows Messenger" server that should never have been running by
default in the first place.

UnPlug n' Pray2,618,699 downloadsAs originally urged by the FBI, and still
urged by prominent security experts, our UnPnP utility easily disables the
dangerous, and almost always unnecessary, Universal Plug and Play service.
If you don't need it, turn it off. (For ALL versions of Windows.)

XPdite1,032,923 downloads.A Critical Security Vulnerability Exists in
Windows XP. (Surprise) Actually, as we know, there are many, but we'll
handle them one at a time. This particular vulnerability allows the files
contained in any specified directory on your system to be deleted if you
click on a specially formed URL. This URL could appear anywhere: sent in
malicious eMail, in a chat room, in a newsgroup posting, on a malicious web
page, or even executed when your computer merely visits a malicious web
page. It is already being exploited on the Internet.

GRC "Perfect Passwords" Generator1,348,383 usesOur server generates maximum
entropy, ultra high quality, guaranteed unique custom password material for
your use when securing and keying your WEP, WPA, VPN, or other network
systems.

DRDoS996,880 accessesOn January 11th, 2002, we were blasted off the Internet
by a next-generation distributed denial of service attack employing innocent
third-party servers.

ID Serve783,850 downloadsSince not all Internet servers are equally secure,
knowing which server software a web site is using can be important to your
security. Ultimately, the security of your personal data is your
responsibility. This free utility can help.

 

ehsjr wrote:

mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote:
I'm looking for a good design (with schematic) to charge single 1.2V
NiMH batteries.

Not two in series, not three or four in series: individual batteries.

Schematics of chargers which can handle 4 batteries in parallel
(charging individually) would be appreciated too.

I've got some NiMH batteries on the fritz, and I'd like to take care of
them as much as possible. Dad had a Ray-o-Vac battery charger that
seemed to charge them individually, but I can't find this anywhere
anymore (not at WalMart or Target).

Thanks,

Michael


This will do a single cell:

-----
+5 ----Vin|LM317|Vout---+
----- |
Adj [R]
| |
+----------+
|
[NiMh]
|
Gnd ----------------------+

I = C/50 forever; I = C/10 for 14 hour rate.
If using 14 hour rate, you could use a 24 hour
appliance timer like Intermatic TN111C

R = 1.25/I

Ed

But, what if the battery wasn't completely discharged? Say, 50% or 70%
charged? Then this (and all timer-based chargers) could overcharge it,
right?

Thanks,

Michael

 

[PeteS]

Rich Grise wrote:

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 19:53:27 +0000, PeteS wrote:

If the OP can access a.b.s.e ...

Nah - googlegroups.

Thanks,
Rich

Hey - I tried

Cheers

PeteS

 

[Michael]

"Roddy Meatstick.............." <roddy9@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:joumh.686$Am5.260@trndny03...

Michael wrote:
Hi,

I've come accross this component:
http://www.nuhorizons.com/products/NewProducts/Nexus/Allegro/index.html

Which says that it uses a hall effect sensor to measure the current.

In theory, if I were to tape a hall effect sensor to the wire, would it
work
just as well? Obviously it would take a bit of calibration, but would
that
be the only difference?

Cheers,

Michael


Hall effect devices can be used to measure Lorentz force. That's how a
clamp on ammeter works. You'd actually be measuring the voltage produce
by the Hall effect sensor which increases with current increase.

Ok thanks Roddy,

Michael

 

[BobG]

joe wrote:

What's the easiest (cheap, few components, including a uP is OK) way to hook
a microphone to a serial radio transmitter (like the Maxstream Xbee) and
send low-quality voice audio?
http://www.maxstream.net/products/xbee/xbee-pro-oem-rf-module-zigbee.php
===========================================

Military SINCGARS radios use 16 Kbit Continuously Variable Slope Delta
Modulation. So your radios need to handle 2K bytes/sec to transmit
voice using this technique.

 

[Joe]

Charles Schuler wrote:

"Joe" <nuisancewildlife@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1167770781.326391.23780@i12g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I am trying to set up a cmos 555 as an astable (oscillator). I would
like it to output 1 pulse (that is, ON, or high) for 1 second and then
stay low for 5-10 seconds before repeating the process again and again.
I used to know how to do this, but now I am using the design equations
and everything seems to be giving me around a 50% duty cycle. Maybe a
555 is not the right component to use? Any links, advice, or info is
greatly appreciated.

http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm

Hello Charles,

Yes, thank you so much for that link, I remembered there was a diode
involved somewhere. That page even gives the design equations. It's
done, I just did the calcs and put the resistors and diode in, and I
now have a 1 sec pulse about every 7 seconds. Thank you again.

Joe

 

[Joe]

Rich Grise wrote:

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 12:46:21 -0800, Joe wrote:

I am trying to set up a cmos 555 as an astable (oscillator). I would like
it to output 1 pulse (that is, ON, or high) for 1 second and then stay low
for 5-10 seconds before repeating the process again and again. I used to
know how to do this, but now I am using the design equations and
everything seems to be giving me around a 50% duty cycle. Maybe a 555 is
not the right component to use? Any links, advice, or info is greatly
appreciated.


You might find some of these links useful:
http://www.google.com/search?q=555+astable+circuit

Good Luck!
Rich

Hello Rich,

Well, thank you for the 42,000 links. I am sure I can scare something
up in one of them. Just kidding, the previous poster was just a little
more specific about where to find the diode trick. I had done the same
thing you suggested but was a little discouraged at how many places
there are to go to find out about the 555. Hence, my post here.

Joe

 

[Charles Schuler]

"Joe" <nuisancewildlife@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1167793656.077511.89350@h40g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Charles Schuler wrote:
"Joe" <nuisancewildlife@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1167770781.326391.23780@i12g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I am trying to set up a cmos 555 as an astable (oscillator). I would
like it to output 1 pulse (that is, ON, or high) for 1 second and then
stay low for 5-10 seconds before repeating the process again and again.
I used to know how to do this, but now I am using the design equations
and everything seems to be giving me around a 50% duty cycle. Maybe a
555 is not the right component to use? Any links, advice, or info is
greatly appreciated.

http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm

Hello Charles,

Yes, thank you so much for that link, I remembered there was a diode
involved somewhere. That page even gives the design equations. It's
done, I just did the calcs and put the resistors and diode in, and I
now have a 1 sec pulse about every 7 seconds. Thank you again.

You are welcome and Happy New Year (I guess it is still OK to say that).

 

Thanks for your answers. But as you know, for example,in a capacitor
the electric
field exist between the electrodes(blades), or we can say it is
ristricted there. what I need is an variable electric field like what
we see in a "Van de graaff" (that is limited just from one side).
In the other word, I want to have an electric field with this
specification that I could change its intensity (variable electrostatic
field). for example in the electromagnetic fields, you can change the
field's intensity by changing the current of the coil. So do you have
any idea for the electrostatic fields?

On Dec 27 2006, 8:04 pm, "terry" <tsanf...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote:

mohammad.esmae...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi,
As you know there is an electricalfieldaround eachelectrostatic
charge. I know how to create anelectrostaticfield. But I have problem
by creating a "variableelectrostaticfield". Can you give me a guide?

Thanks in Advance.
1) Vary the distance?
2) Supply the device providing theelectrostaticfieldwith a varying
voltage?

 

[Tim Wescott]

Chris wrote:

panfilero wrote:

Hello, I just finished creating a circuit, it's a drum machine, but
I've done the whole thing on a solderless breadboard. I was wondering
if anybody could give me any tips on how I could go about transferring
my design onto a PCB. If anyone could reccomend any software or such
that is good for this? I have a copy of PSPICE, but I'm not sure if
that's mainly for simulations. I've seen the "do it yourself" kits
with the photo-resist chemicals and everything, but that seems
potentially messy and complicated. I was wondering if anyone was
familiar with the places that you send the schematic to and then they
mail you your PCB?

Thanks
Joshua


Hi, Joshua. I'd second the motion that the easiest thing to do would
be to use the Radio Shack perfboard (Model: 276-170, #3.29 ea) and just
transfer over directly.

But everyone has a yen to try making an etched board at leat once.
Hey, get it out of your system -- it's not too expensive anymore, if
waiting a while for board turnaround is OK with you.

Try Express PCB. They've got free proprietary CAD software, and have a
starter deal where you can get three 2.5" x 3.8" boards made for just
$51. You might be amazed what can actually fit on a board that size.

http://www.expresspcb.com/index.htm

Many swear by them. Many swear at them. They do go to some lengths to
make it easy for newbies, and engineering students doing senior
projects. Just remember their software locks you in to buying from
them or redoing the board in another CAD package -- the files are
incompatible with other CAD software.

Good luck
Chris

If you're going to do it often I'd recommend you learn how to use EAGLE

and go with PCB Express (pcbexpress.com -- they're different from
expresspcb.com, and I always get the wrong URL). The learning curve is
steeper with EAGLE, but EAGLE will give you industry-standard Gerber
format files that you can shop around anywhere.

OTOH, if ease of use is of paramount importance, use Express PCB and
their baby CAD software.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Posting from Google? See http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google/

"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" came out in April.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html