Chip with simple program for Toy

Martin,
That might be an idea to run it 12v....and see how it goes although I
don't have a spare motor just yet to risk burning up. I see your point
about it. Although I might experiment with your RS part first. Seems
easy enough along with the other method someone mentioned using
resistors.
Thanks again.

-joe

 

** MOTOR SPECS Mabuchi 380**
Ok, I know I have posted the specs here before...but this is straight
from the manuf.

http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=rs_380sh

It's the "4045" submodel version, with the Nominal 7.2V.

 

[BobG]

This page in digikey has a wide input range dc to dc switcher for $17
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/1706.pdf

 

[John Popelish]

Bob J. wrote:

Hi all,

I want to know what is the right thing to measure leakage inductance, A
or B?

Check this out:
http://my.dreamwiz.com/jyeonsuk/qna/q_leakage_inductance.pdf

Leakage inductance is the part of one of the inductors that is not
coupled to the other one. In other words, it represents the part of
the total flux that passes through one coil that does not also pass
through the other coil.

"A" shows one of the inductors short circuited (to prevent easy
passage of flux through it), while the other inductance is being
measured. B shows both inductors shorted, while the capacitance
between the two coils is being measured. Which one of those
situations sounds more like it is involved with leakage inductance?

 

[Ben Jackson]

On 2006-05-26, Mark Healey <die@spammer.die> wrote:

So, how hot can I heat the thumbdrive (minus the case) without wrecking it?

Probably. You might want to bake it alone for a few hours at low temp
(200F) to drive out moisture so the package won't crack when you get it
hotter.

--
Ben Jackson
<ben@ben.com>
http://www.ben.com/

 

[Rikard Bosnjakovic]

Ken O wrote:

What you are saying this chip gives the output at pin 1, then after a clock
outputs at pin2 , then pin 3 etc... ?

Yes. That's how I used to do when I needed less than a 10-counter.


--
Sincerely, | http://bos.hack.org/cv/
Rikard Bosnjakovic | Code chef - will cook for food
------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Jason S]

Good question huh? Looks like nody seems to know =( Oh well.


"Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:447c366a$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...

Hi guys,

This might seem to be an odd question, but I'm very curious to know....

Do high brightness LED's come available as bi or tri colour, with
waterclear lens? I am talking ones like 5000MCD+. I know it might sound
crazy, but if they can make white LED's with 30000mcd, why can't a bi or
tri colour LED be made similarly too? Is it because there would be
problems projecting the light through the waterclear lens sufficiently?
I can only seem to find ones that have very low MCD levels - levels very
similar to that found in the standard diffused type bi/tri. Please note
that I do understand that each colour won't have the same MCD level due to
different wavelengths, even if they did exist.
If they don't exist, would there be a valid reason for this, other than
projection issues?

Any info or links would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Jason.

 

[Mike]

Actually I want to do different typr of coils, i need something to compare
strenght. So i do not really need the absolute value, but just an
indication what works best.

ken

I have quit doing it now but, I have been building a little Guass
meter for several years that slotcar (remember those?) racers use to
test and match the little magnets in their motors. Yeah, a lot of
those guys are very serious about their racing. Anyway, I was able to
wholesale it for $150 so you should have no problem building one
yourself on the cheap. The units I made used a ratiometric sensor
similar to the ones that have been recommended. My earliest versions
used opamps to shift and scale the sensor output that fed a panel
meter module. The last ones I made used a sigma delta A/D and a PIC
driving a standard LCD. Either works just fine. All have used the same
sensor built into a traverse probe. The sensor cost me about $13 ea
and were never in stock so I always ordered 25 at a time. Whatever
sensor you use, make sure it stays linear throughout the range of the
field you expect to encounter. Most of those sensors will run out at
anywhere from +- 100-2500 Gauss. I don't know if repeatability is all
that important to you, but keep an eye on the temperature specs for
sensitivity, offset, and linearity.

Mike

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

On Thu, 1 Jun 2006 21:24:12 +1000, "Jason S" <jst3712@iprimus.com.au>
wrote:

Good question huh? Looks like nody seems to know =( Oh well.

I have arrays built from tri-color LED arrangements, spaced on 4mm and
5mm centers. But they are sold custom-made for big buyers. They are
_very_ bright, because they are designed for daylight situations in
the out-of-doors use. You see them on those snazzy TV-like displays,
once in a while. Inside each "pixel" are three LEDs, a blue, a green,
and a red. All three, very bright. All three wire-bonded very close
to each other inside a plastic lens.

I don't know of anyone making hobbyist pieces like this -- either in
individual tri-color LED units or in panels that most of us can order.

But they exist.

Jon

 

[John Jardine.]

"Jim Newlon" <JimNewlon@ATT.Net> wrote in message

[...]

Jim

It really is tacky, pathetic and a sad insult, to see spam in this
particularly low IQ form.

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:40:55 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:08:58 +0200, "CS" <address@server.com> wrote:

Hi

I have a small bedroom recording studio full of electromagnetic fields
(mainly 50hz+harmonics up to ~3,5khz from power cables in walls).

Here is how it looks on Adobe Audition's spectrum analyzer:
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/4522/dirtysilence7th.jpg

I'm planning to build a 2m x 2m Faraday's cage/booth to protect active
electric guitar pickups from external electrostatic and electromagnetic
noise 20hz-96khz

Please suggest best material (copper ? aluminium ? iron ? or maybe a
combination of different metals), how thick should it be and how to get rid
of the current in a situation where no true ground is available.

How many dBs of attenuation should i expect ?

Thanks in advance.

ps. If this is not the right newsgroup to ask this question please suggest
the best one.


The three field types are magnetic, electrostatic, and
electromagnetic.

Forget magnetic shielding. Enough iron to give any useful shielding to
a room would collapse the structure of a house.

Electromagnetic shielding, aka RFI screen room, is difficult and only
keeps out high-frequency fields. Google "emi screen room" or somesuch.

You achieve good electrostatic shielding (block capacitively-induced
hum) with any conductive coating on the walls: foil, screen wire,
metal sheets. Just connect and ground them all. Some modest
electromagnetic shielding will result, too. A water pipe is a good
low-frequency ground.

But none of this should be necessary if cabling and grounding are
right.

John
Assuming the noise is coming from the wiring in the walls, could the

noise come from fluorescent fixtures, or other noise generating
devices, connected to the same circuit but in another room? I know
little about electronics so this question is because of curiosity.
Also, do the guitar strings act as antennas and transfer whatever they
receive to the guitar pickup?
Thanks,
Eric

 

[CS]

Użytkownik "Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> napisał w wiadomości
news:fbn0a2lih10vtlqeanlbgnmkjq46r147n1@4ax.com...

Assuming the noise is coming from the wiring in the walls, could the
noise come from fluorescent fixtures, or other noise generating
devices, connected to the same circuit but in another room?

Possibly, but i doesn't have to come from other devices. Standard power in
my country is already 50hz AC + harmonics in the wire and any good guitar
pickup even if it is a humbucker will pick that 50hz.

Also, do the guitar strings act as antennas and transfer whatever they
receive to the guitar pickup?

IMHO this is impossible.

 

[John Larkin]

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:25:41 -0700, Eric R Snow <etpm@whidbey.com>
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 08:40:55 -0700, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:08:58 +0200, "CS" <address@server.com> wrote:

Hi

I have a small bedroom recording studio full of electromagnetic fields
(mainly 50hz+harmonics up to ~3,5khz from power cables in walls).

Here is how it looks on Adobe Audition's spectrum analyzer:
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/4522/dirtysilence7th.jpg

I'm planning to build a 2m x 2m Faraday's cage/booth to protect active
electric guitar pickups from external electrostatic and electromagnetic
noise 20hz-96khz

Please suggest best material (copper ? aluminium ? iron ? or maybe a
combination of different metals), how thick should it be and how to get rid
of the current in a situation where no true ground is available.

How many dBs of attenuation should i expect ?

Thanks in advance.

ps. If this is not the right newsgroup to ask this question please suggest
the best one.


The three field types are magnetic, electrostatic, and
electromagnetic.

Forget magnetic shielding. Enough iron to give any useful shielding to
a room would collapse the structure of a house.

Electromagnetic shielding, aka RFI screen room, is difficult and only
keeps out high-frequency fields. Google "emi screen room" or somesuch.

You achieve good electrostatic shielding (block capacitively-induced
hum) with any conductive coating on the walls: foil, screen wire,
metal sheets. Just connect and ground them all. Some modest
electromagnetic shielding will result, too. A water pipe is a good
low-frequency ground.

But none of this should be necessary if cabling and grounding are
right.

John
Assuming the noise is coming from the wiring in the walls, could the
noise come from fluorescent fixtures, or other noise generating
devices, connected to the same circuit but in another room? I know
little about electronics so this question is because of curiosity.

Yes. Fluorescents and triac dimmers generate harmonics of the line
frequency, and they not only couple better into sensitive electronics,
they are much more audible.

Also, do the guitar strings act as antennas and transfer whatever they
receive to the guitar pickup?

They could, if the pickup was poorly electrostatically shielded or not
grounded, but string-pickup capacitance is small so the effect will be
minor. One easy way to tell would be to touch the strings; if the hum
changes...

One gotcha is that preamps can rectify RF. So a nearby TV station can
produce a buzz that sounds like noise from the AC line, but it's
actually the field rate of the video (which is almost the same as line
frequency.) This is a problem in my house, a few miles from a big
antanna farm. RadioShack telephones and computer speakers are
especially bad about picking up RF. The strings could definitely be
involved here.


John

 

[John Fields]

On 1 Jul 2006 13:48:52 -0700, "Durn" <jjdurney88@yahoo.com> wrote:

Some crap about a pyramid scheme and then identified himself as:

6.) John J. Durney
4 Innis St
Oil City PA 16301

---
or one of the other losers on the list.

How fucking stupid can you get?


--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[phaeton]

How fucking stupid can you get?

But.. but..butt.... if it's on the intarweb, IT MUST BE
TRUE!!!!!!11oneoneone!

 

[Greg Neill]

<diplome333@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1151972601.114294.88480@j8g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

hi !

I have a problem.... i don't understand...help me please !!!
http://www.animals-superstars.com/photo-109260.html

Tank you

Patate069

Your problem may not be what you think it is.

*PLONK*

 

[JeffM]

was: help me please !!!

diplome333@hotmail.com wrote:
>[SPAM]

 

[Tom Biasi]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:n1sda21qlq00dmd21opat1uqc9m5b5cdjf@4ax.com...

On 1 Jul 2006 13:48:52 -0700, "Durn" <jjdurney88@yahoo.com> wrote:

Some crap about a pyramid scheme and then identified himself as:

6.) John J. Durney
4 Innis St
Oil City PA 16301

---
or one of the other losers on the list.

How fucking stupid can you get?


--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

I think that's what he is trying to find out John.

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Wed, 05 Jul 2006 00:45:27 GMT, "Melodolic" <a@a.a> wrote:

David L. Jones wrote:

Then it'll probably do just fine. BUt you still don't get the
"measurement confidence" you get with a higher quality meter like a
Fluke.

I use a Fluke at work. My "measurement confidence" in more-or-less cheapie
meters is based on 15 years of hassle free use.


Yes, the new one is a lot better than the older models which were
absolute crap. The new model is "less crap" relatively speaking, but
crap none the less compared to a good quality meter.

So, "a heap of crap" is less crap than "crap", which is the same as
"absolute crap"? I'd have thought the order, from less crap to more crap,
would be "crap", "a heap of crap", and "absolute crap". If I'm right, does
that mean you're talking crap?
Crap, and a heap of crap, are just measurements of the amount of crap.

Absolute crap means there is nothing mixed in with the crap, like
methane, for example. So, the order would probably be: crap, a heap of
crap, and an absolute heap of crap. When you are talking about high
quality measuring instruments the descriptions must also be of a
similar high quality. Speaking of high quality Fluke stuff I have a
non-contact device made for finding the hot lead in an AC circuit
that's made by Fluke. It's called the VOLT LIGHT LVD1. It uses a white
LED as a flashlight and has bi-color led indicater that changes from
blue, through purple, to red, when it senses AC. The really nice thing
about it is the flashlight points in the general direction of the
current carrying conductor. This makes it real useful in low light
conditions. Like when I'm looking for hot wires in a machine control
cabinet.
ERS

True, it's not, if that's all you've got. We all survived quite nicely
before autoranging meters came along!

I use my meters interchangeably. Thus far, I have come through forays into
the bad old days unscathed. I'm plucking up the courage to throw a volt or
two at my half-price-15-years-ago Maplin own-brand moving needle jobbie.

Smoke me a kipper...

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Wed, 05 Jul 2006 22:58:37 GMT, "Jack F. Twist"
<jack_invalid_f_twist@earthlink.net> wrote:

"ehsjr" <ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote in message news:6XWqg.4651$%61.595@trndny09...
Get item 90899-1VGA from Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/
On sale now for $2.99 and it includes the battery.

This is the meter to drop, abuse, throw in the tool
box, carry up the ladder, give away as a gift, etc.

Let the guys and gals debate what meter to get here
to their hearts content, while you use the thing.
It is fine for most of what you'll do. And it will
buy you the time to save the money to buy a good
bench meter that you will coddle and treat with
kid gloves. My view is that all meters under $50
are roughly the same in terms of accuracy - far
more accurate than most people will ever need from
a DMM - and vary only by features.

I agree, but I'd opt for their 35017-3VGA instead. It's a
bit more money but a lot more accurate, and shock resistant.
Even if it does bite the dust after a year or two, buy another.
Or three or four. You'll still be far ahead compared to
buying a single obscenely overpriced Fluke.

Though the Fluke meters are expensive I don't think they are

overpriced. It's one of those tools that really is worth the money.
ERS