Chip with simple program for Toy

[Aratzio]

vbNUikHcLTBVnaRJszBFbKXisJxYRBFcUkAODEbTeSDPopROha
amnCDjJRwjuvVBHRkjNochhnHOEMAabVrmESZPuwWhxkYRJuYq
RkdgWJvDzptBxKdFTzsVHTLdRAPwsZmyYGwOrQmrUPxIjDVueI
JfzJoIaUTdqsCVxlvVazkRmWieqqQEpZaQPAMhXMgOFTLVEela
AJdoErxKmuUnGBojmganosXTBELQQIduiBpwDzIJMVAzoItgqB
IofWiTNgMVGQdgineBsPGyREjsCjksuMYXlDdHnPiEEPqaApqu

 

[El Barbaro del Ritmo]

MiUPIQqYYAOmpZAYHTTTSxldlNiBuqnlkuzcjOJAMkGACSZcrd
YviBjffbwbEAzfjGIOhEcRzIDGdBuGTKnIayHIvbaCRZCsmkZm
PJzGvhOFSnaBuQOmzoAIHxolOttPCszYHhlDMprmKzSgFrbfeE
VZqtBYSuCQUlHNEJNrQindnPEqQdZuDLhHcpazvWtpDQvKPIMG
chBvaSIzSNdDdEMDCdYlDaSIAaieQdbkVcgskChDkXgsYMvMFY
DtnQKQiGNCzDLNZfUNaQTXSjzLfvehbGUXpHrlFrzVavddWVLm

 

[Aratzio]

NtoRXoLYUxoLVfHrQUlnutafmuQHasiRaTUzZokkoWMJHAezLr
BVGRcBtCeEXUmntuezWwQSAOuTRTntEpViuRZXCmAliJsJwoxm
FmVWmCgaavXlABVXtfyOHlFGPWsBmhXNajSMeHFZyQziZbtUwv
hOzZNXLqDfoSQMuQfbCitPioPlabymIAPiTPhEAdbHCDIxjHnV
icPHNCvpZeJSrmmzAIQZvWmnuJuTblUWuVdOGRvlRYToWtvKev
DOwhqWLUmFMhNZHliJSWwITMjIjMqjmFgKlyaDQfOTtXFtogXV

 

[Doug Freyburger]

foJgMmPmNnrIAqNyUUUdSuOiSUYBZYXpQOVgNGeFVMcbycoQik
mDxXdKnMQHBjCCeNNNkQephElIIrpfOnvAMWhCcJKDwOFyJHbD
ysBkHbNzFZMCHYPdHoGhmjPIvJQDfqgWzewPOnIRLFxzsMosBl
wDeMvKiGEAFjciFghmfBZuuBbwnzwsklSzZRURnelgdlsxEPrp
ufTnZUVYrJsXYaypEZIErqRrfSkRKNbtHmDVPCuVqpKWBHlYKK
mVSrtmbdorIUCDclrmehEhGNLWdrshtDkfsVFeUrUNFrDDXsDA

 

Aratzio wrote:

vbNUikHcLTBVnaRJszBFbKXisJxYRBFcUkAODEbTeSDPopROha
amnCDjJRwjuvVBHRkjNochhnHOEMAabVrmESZPuwWhxkYRJuYq
RkdgWJvDzptBxKdFTzsVHTLdRAPwsZmyYGwOrQmrUPxIjDVueI
JfzJoIaUTdqsCVxlvVazkRmWieqqQEpZaQPAMhXMgOFTLVEela
AJdoErxKmuUnGBojmganosXTBELQQIduiBpwDzIJMVAzoItgqB
IofWiTNgMVGQdgineBsPGyREjsCjksuMYXlDdHnPiEEPqaApqu

That is some of the best writing and logic you have ever put out
Aratzio - still nonsense and rubbish - but this is the best!

 

[Art Deco]

<aozotorp@aol.com> wrote:

Aratzio wrote:
vbNUikHcLTBVnaRJszBFbKXisJxYRBFcUkAODEbTeSDPopROha
amnCDjJRwjuvVBHRkjNochhnHOEMAabVrmESZPuwWhxkYRJuYq
RkdgWJvDzptBxKdFTzsVHTLdRAPwsZmyYGwOrQmrUPxIjDVueI
JfzJoIaUTdqsCVxlvVazkRmWieqqQEpZaQPAMhXMgOFTLVEela
AJdoErxKmuUnGBojmganosXTBELQQIduiBpwDzIJMVAzoItgqB
IofWiTNgMVGQdgineBsPGyREjsCjksuMYXlDdHnPiEEPqaApqu


That is some of the best writing and logic you have ever put out
Aratzio - still nonsense and rubbish - but this is the best!

Protobrain demonstrates how he won his Foam Duck.

--
Official Associate AFA-B Vote Rustler
Official Overseer of Kooks and Saucerheads in alt.astronomy
Co-Winner, alt.(f)lame Worst Flame War, December 2005

"And without accurate measuring techniques, how can they even
*call* quantum theory a "scientific" one? How can it possibly
be referred to as a "fundamental branch of physics"?"
-- Painsnuh the Lamer

 

[Joel Kolstad]

"dungaree" <matilda@downunder.biz> wrote in message
news:iHc8g.75088$H71.14012@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...

Point the LEDs at one another. Digital data should easily
be transferred half-duplex in both directions.

Yeah, I did that for a class project some years ago... 1Mbps was fairly easy
with pedestrian op-amps doing the heavy lifting, although I had read Phil
Hobb's notes on noise in photodetectors to optimize the design somewhat (they
helped so much I decided to go out and buy his book). The original goal was
to have a full-duplex system via time-division multiplexing, but I ran out of
time to do it (initially synchronizing the two ends when they're first turned
on takes a bit of effort), so instead I just had a toggle switch that turned
everything around.

Getting way off-topic here:

At the time I argued something along the lines of how RS-232 to fiber optic
converters are often used for long distance links in harsh environments (e.g.,
production floors), and how requiring only one fiber rather than two would
save costs. I realize these days that, while, sure, it does save costs, in
many plants the labor of installing *any* sort of link completely outweighs
the costs of the actual fiber, associated hardware, etc.

I do know of a couple of plants where this wouldn't be the case, though -- a
sawmill here in Oregon where the owner has literally dozens of little
microcontroller-based projects running the place that he designed himself
(most are just soldered together on perfboard because they're all one-offs),
and a glass factory in Wisconsin where the entire float glass line is overseen
by a single PC... running a DOS program designed some time in the late-'80s!
(If you asked someone to design such a system for you, these days the response
would probably involve multiple PLCs, multiple PCs, etc...)

---Joel Kolstad

 

[Erwin Thomas]

How much voltage would you like..16V. Other considerations would be
regulation, power, ripple. Yes you can make multipliers from just about
anything that produces a changing voltage. Transformers are a popular
method, series or parallel multipliers using capacitors are another. The
ULN2003 configured for parallel multiplier that provide lower ripple and
output impedance. To reduce ripple even more some phase shifts would be
necessary, regulation could be improved by a adjustable regulator. The
series multiplier easier to construct may be the way to go, since you could
tie ULN2003 outputs together to drive. All of these circuits can be found on
the internet, but must be adapted.

Good luck

"temp@temp.com" <not@not.com> wrote in message
news:Xns97B2B98C4773Etenotempcom@140.99.99.130...

Greetings All

Can I make voltage multipliers from several ULN2003A Darlington Array IC
chips?

I'm trying to increase the voltage out my National Instruments usb-6008.
I
have several ULN2003A DARLINGTON ARRAYS I was wondering if I could use
these as VOLTAGE MULTIPLIERS. I have 3v coming out my usb6008 and I'm
trying to get to about 16v or would I need to use a different chip.

Anyone have any examples with this chip? I'm using Multisim 9 to test
different configurations out.

Tia Sal2

 

Thanks for moving the post. Sorry, I didn't know.

I think I need about 3-4 amps. It's a motor to start a small nitro RC
engine (.15 size)
I guess the motor is about a mabuchi 380 in size.
The starting requires a bit of pulse starting(ie on for 15-20 seconds
off again, on again) so I imagine the initial start loads maybe a
little higher?

I took this from some other posting on the web:
checked the specs for the 380/400 motor too :Specification
Nominal voltage 7,2 V
Operating voltage range 3,6 ... 8,4 V
No-load rpm 16400 min1
No-load current drain 0,5 A
Current drain at max. efficiency 3,3 A
Current drain when stalled 21 A
Max. efficiency without gearbox 72 %
Length of case, excl. shaft 37,8 mm
Diameter 27,7 mm
Free shaft length 13,8 mm
Shaft diameter 2,3 mm
Weight 73 g

 

Yes, in reality I'm dropping from 12V car battery, which is probably
13.2v like you mentioned
to the equivalent of a 6 nicad cell (C or subC size) battery pack in
series. the 6-cell is supposed to be 7.2v, but I think after a full
charged it's somewhere around 8.0 to 8.4V.

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 11 May 2006 09:35:04 -0700, g20zoom wrote:

Yes, in reality I'm dropping from 12V car battery, which is probably
13.2v like you mentioned
to the equivalent of a 6 nicad cell (C or subC size) battery pack in
series. the 6-cell is supposed to be 7.2v, but I think after a full
charged it's somewhere around 8.0 to 8.4V.

This should be pretty easy:
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM338.html

It's good for 5 amps, but you'll need a considerable heat sink. It also
has overload protection; I notice the lock-up current is about 25A; if
your motor stalls you'll need more power.

Good Luck!
Rich

 

[ehsjr]

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks for moving the post. Sorry, I didn't know.

I think I need about 3-4 amps. It's a motor to start a small nitro RC
engine (.15 size)
I guess the motor is about a mabuchi 380 in size.
The starting requires a bit of pulse starting(ie on for 15-20 seconds
off again, on again) so I imagine the initial start loads maybe a
little higher?

I took this from some other posting on the web:
checked the specs for the 380/400 motor too :Specification
Nominal voltage 7,2 V
Operating voltage range 3,6 ... 8,4 V
No-load rpm 16400 min1
No-load current drain 0,5 A
Current drain at max. efficiency 3,3 A
Current drain when stalled 21 A
Max. efficiency without gearbox 72 %
Length of case, excl. shaft 37,8 mm
Diameter 27,7 mm
Free shaft length 13,8 mm
Shaft diameter 2,3 mm
Weight 73 g

Your best approach is to use NiCds and charge them from
the car or the AC mains if available. Why force yourself
to start the RC engine near the car? The charge circuit
using the car or a 12V supply is real simple: one resistor,
a 1N400x diode and an LM317.

-----
+12 ------Vin|LM317|Vout---+
----- |
Adj [R] 5 ohm 1/2 watt
| |
+----------+--->|---> To NiCd +
1N400x

Gnd --------------------------------> To NiCd -

This will provide a charge current of 250 mA, which
will take 14 hours to charge a fully discharged 2.5 aH
C cell. You can get more sophisticated, but it is
probably not necessary.

But if you must, you can run a comparator across the
NiCd pack. When the voltage rises to full charge, the
comparator switches and drops out a relay, which
disconnects the charge circuit from the source. That
prevents draining the car battery and terminates the
charge to the pack so it can't overcharge. (You can
leave a NiCd on a 14 hour charger for well in excess
of 14 hours with no problems, but not forever.)
If you elect to go with the comparator/relay disconnect
circuit, you could change the value of the resistor to
1.5 ohms, 2 watt. The charge rate would than be .83
amps, and charging a fully discharged pack would take
about 3 1/2 hours.

Ed

 

[Bob]

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote:

I think I need about 3-4 amps. It's a motor to start a small nitro RC
engine (.15 size)

If you are driving an inductive load, such as a motor, you can reduce
the voltage using PWM. To go from 12v to 7.2v, use PWM with a
60% duty cycle. If you motor doesn't need to be reversible, then
all you need is a cheap uC with PWM (PIC, AVR, etc.) and a power
transistor.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2006-05-11, g20zoom@gmail.com <g20zoom@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks for moving the post. Sorry, I didn't know.

I think I need about 3-4 amps. It's a motor to start a small nitro RC
engine (.15 size)
I guess the motor is about a mabuchi 380 in size.
The starting requires a bit of pulse starting(ie on for 15-20 seconds
off again, on again) so I imagine the initial start loads maybe a
little higher?

I took this from some other posting on the web:
checked the specs for the 380/400 motor too :Specification
Nominal voltage 7,2 V
Operating voltage range 3,6 ... 8,4 V
Current drain when stalled 21 A

for starting the electric motor you need the stall current.
you may do better using a 12V motor from a
windscreen wiper or cordless drill, or using a 6V
motorcycle battery as a power source.



--

Bye.
Jasen

 

Thanks for everyone's input.
I didn't realize this would be more complex to get the stall current.
I figured...hey I have a 12V car battery that's always charged...and
that it would be easy to tap off and get it down to 7.2v.

Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2006-05-11, g20zoom@gmail.com <g20zoom@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks for moving the post. Sorry, I didn't know.

I think I need about 3-4 amps. It's a motor to start a small nitro RC
engine (.15 size)
I guess the motor is about a mabuchi 380 in size.
The starting requires a bit of pulse starting(ie on for 15-20 seconds
off again, on again) so I imagine the initial start loads maybe a
little higher?

I took this from some other posting on the web:
checked the specs for the 380/400 motor too :Specification
Nominal voltage 7,2 V
Operating voltage range 3,6 ... 8,4 V
Current drain when stalled 21 A

for starting the electric motor you need the stall current.
you may do better using a 12V motor from a
windscreen wiper or cordless drill, or using a 6V
motorcycle battery as a power source.



--

Bye.
Jasen

 

The problem that I and others I know use the 7.2V battery pack
infrequently...say every few weeks, at which time the nicad battery is
dead. This involves waiting to charge it backup and also some
maintenance when using the batteries to prevent memory problems. It
turns out that most of the time, we are near a car, so I thought it
would be a cool addition to have some kind of 12v to 7.2v converter,
something I could just plug into the cigarette adapter and go. On the
surface, in my hand I have a small battery back and in my real vehicle,
I see a huge battery with high capacity that I want to tap into. At
first glance, seems like an easy feat to drive a tiny electrical motor
with a 12v car battery, but the electronics are proving a bit more
complicated to get the stall amps(25A) to start the electrical motor.
I didn't realize this was so complicated to build because of the
current to start/drive an electrical motor. So it's looking more like
the battery pack is indeed the way to go.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2006-05-14, Bob <bob3635x@yahoo.com> wrote:

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote:

I think I need about 3-4 amps. It's a motor to start a small nitro RC
engine (.15 size)

If you are driving an inductive load, such as a motor, you can reduce
the voltage using PWM. To go from 12v to 7.2v, use PWM with a
60% duty cycle. If you motor doesn't need to be reversible, then
all you need is a cheap uC with PWM (PIC, AVR, etc.) and a power
transistor.

PWM on that scale can be done with a 555 three passives and a power transistor.



--

Bye.
Jasen

 

[ehsjr]

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote:

The problem that I and others I know use the 7.2V battery pack
infrequently...say every few weeks, at which time the nicad battery is
dead. This involves waiting to charge it backup and also some
maintenance when using the batteries to prevent memory problems. It
turns out that most of the time, we are near a car, so I thought it
would be a cool addition to have some kind of 12v to 7.2v converter,
something I could just plug into the cigarette adapter and go. On the
surface, in my hand I have a small battery back and in my real vehicle,
I see a huge battery with high capacity that I want to tap into. At
first glance, seems like an easy feat to drive a tiny electrical motor
with a 12v car battery, but the electronics are proving a bit more
complicated to get the stall amps(25A) to start the electrical motor.
I didn't realize this was so complicated to build because of the
current to start/drive an electrical motor. So it's looking more like
the battery pack is indeed the way to go.

I saw this posted on the other group, and posted an answer
there. If all you want to do is run the motor, and you don't
care if the speed varies, you don't need a regulated supply.
Based on the figures posted in the other group, I think
you can do this really easily. Put a 3 ohm, 50 watt resistor
in series with the motor and measure the voltage across
the motor. If what I read is correct, the motor is rated
for 6 to 9 volts. If the measurement across the motor is
within that range, you're good to go. (You can use three
1 ohm 15 watt resistors in series in place of the 3 ohm
resistor.)

I *seriously* doubt that tiny motor has a 25 amp stall current.
But let's say it does, and there is difficulty starting it.
Use the following circuit:

+ ---+---[3ohm]---+---[Motor]---+
| | |
| | <----+ |
| | Ry-1 |
+-----o |
| |
| C1 |
+------+-----||----[Rly]---+
| 100uF |
[10K] |
| |
Gnd --------+-------------------+


When you plug it in to the cigarette lighter jack,
the cap draws heavy current through the relay, which
causes it to energize and close the contact Ry-1,
providing a start pulse to the motor at as much
current as it draws. The cap charges fairly
fast, which reduces the current through the relay,
so it de-energizes and the motor now gets all of
its voltage through the 3 ohm resistor. The 10K
resistor discharges the cap when the thing is
unplugged.

Use a heavy duty automotive relay. You may need
to experiment with the size of C1 - the larger
it is, the longer the start pulse.

Ed

 

[Martin]

Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2006-05-11, g20zoom@gmail.com <g20zoom@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks for moving the post. Sorry, I didn't know.

I think I need about 3-4 amps. It's a motor to start a small nitro RC
engine (.15 size)
I guess the motor is about a mabuchi 380 in size.
The starting requires a bit of pulse starting(ie on for 15-20 seconds
off again, on again) so I imagine the initial start loads maybe a
little higher?

I took this from some other posting on the web:
checked the specs for the 380/400 motor too :Specification
Nominal voltage 7,2 V
Operating voltage range 3,6 ... 8,4 V
Current drain when stalled 21 A

for starting the electric motor you need the stall current.
you may do better using a 12V motor from a
windscreen wiper or cordless drill, or using a 6V
motorcycle battery as a power source.

Bye.
Jasen

You can get the "same" motor with different windings which would be
more appropriate for 12 volts as well, which may work better with any
hardware involved.
I would check the online sources for electric model airplanes, they
would use such motors.

Or some simpler options

You can quite possibly get away with running the motor you have at 12
volts.
It will be abusive to it, and it will not last as long as it might
have, but it is likely to be ok for quite a while. The specs for it
probably assume steady state use. Using it in an intermittent fashion
(as a starter) allows it to cool more than its specs assume, helping
you to get away with abusing it.

Using long fairly thin wires to power it from the car battery will
provide a voltage drop, getting it closer to the voltage it should be
at.

Another (very simple) way to introduce a voltage drop is to put a
couple of diodes in series with the motor. Radio Shack's part #
276-1185 is a bridge rectifier rated at 25 amps that contains 4
diodes. By hooking it up in a specific way, you get 2 diode drops in
the circuit. If you use 2 of them you can get 4 diode drops ( a drop
of 3 or 4 volts)
Hook it up as follows:
from the plus terminal of your battery to the minus terminal of
rectifier #1,
from the plus terminal of rectifier #1, to the minus terminal of
rectifier #2,
from the plus terminal of rectifier #2, to the plus terminal of the
motor.
from the minus terminal of the motor to the minus terminal of the
battery.

some notes on doing this:
The above is correct regarding the terminal orientation of the
rectifiers, we are hooking them up "backwards" since we are not really
using them as rectifiers.
The AC terminals on the rectifiers are not connected to anything in
your application.
The rectifiers specify a heat sink, you probably dont need it given the
short duty cycle.
Test it, if it gets too hot to touch then you do need one.

Martin Bakalorz

 

Ed,
This seems fairly simple to try out...I'll start with the resistors and
go from there.
I see your point about the cap giving it the start up power. I can
start simply and build it up as needed. Thanks again.

-joe

ehsjr wrote:

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote:
The problem that I and others I know use the 7.2V battery pack
infrequently...say every few weeks, at which time the nicad battery is
dead. This involves waiting to charge it backup and also some
maintenance when using the batteries to prevent memory problems. It
turns out that most of the time, we are near a car, so I thought it
would be a cool addition to have some kind of 12v to 7.2v converter,
something I could just plug into the cigarette adapter and go. On the
surface, in my hand I have a small battery back and in my real vehicle,
I see a huge battery with high capacity that I want to tap into. At
first glance, seems like an easy feat to drive a tiny electrical motor
with a 12v car battery, but the electronics are proving a bit more
complicated to get the stall amps(25A) to start the electrical motor.
I didn't realize this was so complicated to build because of the
current to start/drive an electrical motor. So it's looking more like
the battery pack is indeed the way to go.



I saw this posted on the other group, and posted an answer
there. If all you want to do is run the motor, and you don't
care if the speed varies, you don't need a regulated supply.
Based on the figures posted in the other group, I think
you can do this really easily. Put a 3 ohm, 50 watt resistor
in series with the motor and measure the voltage across
the motor. If what I read is correct, the motor is rated
for 6 to 9 volts. If the measurement across the motor is
within that range, you're good to go. (You can use three
1 ohm 15 watt resistors in series in place of the 3 ohm
resistor.)

I *seriously* doubt that tiny motor has a 25 amp stall current.
But let's say it does, and there is difficulty starting it.
Use the following circuit:

+ ---+---[3ohm]---+---[Motor]---+
| | |
| | <----+ |
| | Ry-1 |
+-----o |
| |
| C1 |
+------+-----||----[Rly]---+
| 100uF |
[10K] |
| |
Gnd --------+-------------------+


When you plug it in to the cigarette lighter jack,
the cap draws heavy current through the relay, which
causes it to energize and close the contact Ry-1,
providing a start pulse to the motor at as much
current as it draws. The cap charges fairly
fast, which reduces the current through the relay,
so it de-energizes and the motor now gets all of
its voltage through the 3 ohm resistor. The 10K
resistor discharges the cap when the thing is
unplugged.

Use a heavy duty automotive relay. You may need
to experiment with the size of C1 - the larger
it is, the longer the start pulse.

Ed