Chip with simple program for Toy

EBAY!!, do as everyone else does when they sell anything remotely
electrical. State clearly, that it works fine but is sold as is, no
guarantee and no returns. I haven't heard of anyone yet on EBAY causing
hassle due to being electrocuted, BUT, I do frequent local auctions (U.K.)
and all electrical goods have to be tested before sale, whether or not they
work doesn't matter, they just need to be checked for earth leakage so as
not to fry anyone who plugs them in. Most reputable auctions have an
Electrician who for a small fee, checks the item over before sale. Hope this
helped.

Gaz

 

[ah]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:36 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 08:48:54 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Fri, 09 Dec 2005 01:13:16 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

It's rude to expose others to such ambiguity.

It's rude to expose others to your small appendage.

STOP THINKING ABOUT MY PENIS!

I was talking about your index finger.

http://www.misternicehands.com/

Ok, I'll pull your appendage.

Touch me and I'll have to kill you.
--
ah

 

[ah]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:14 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Phil "The Shill" Kyle wrote:
ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote in news:WPanf.17098$7r6.9407@trnddc07:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Fri, 09 Dec 2005 01:13:16 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

It's rude to expose others to such ambiguity.

It's rude to expose others to your small appendage.

STOP THINKING ABOUT MY PENIS!

No.

pedo

Er..... how old are you?

*ding*
--
ah

 

[ah]

Rich Grise wrote:

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:43:05 +0000, Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:31:31 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:
Peter Hucker wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 08:53:31 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:
Peter Hucker wrote:
On Sat, 10 Dec 2005 21:38:01 -0000, Rich The Newsgroup Wacko <wacko@example.com> wrote:

Visualize Whirled Peas!

I'll need some marajuana first.

You'll need a slight bit more'n that, Peter.

"Some" is not a specific quantity.

But easily identifiable--in this context--as not nearly enough.

"Some marajuana" is never anywhere near specific.

"Dope will get you through times of no money better than money will get
you through times of no dope."
-- Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers

"Dope will get you through times of no pussy better than money will."
-- some cow-orker in the EMR shop at Beale AFB, CA, ca. 1974

Cheers!
Rich

[1] EMR = Electromagnetic Reconnaissance. Or, depending whom you're
talking to, Educable Mentally Retarded. ;-P

IAWTP.
--
ah

 

[Palindr☝me]

Lem wrote:

I need some technical help.

I'd like to know what sort of circuit is used for a low voltage
halogen desk lamp such as this one:

http://www.lampsontheweb.com/images/Lamps/ls331trblu.jpg

I'm particularly interested to know what electrical safety features
are included in the circuit because I'm puzzled that when I put a
volt meter across the two metal supports I get almost no voltage
reading!

if there is no potential difference then presumably these supports
could be shorted out without ill effect?

All the ones I have seen have about 12V AC between the telescopic
columns. Are you measuring this with the light lit and with a (working)
AC volt meter on an appropriate range?

I would imagine that there is a thermal fuse built into the windings.
So, if you short the columns to each other for any length of time, the
thermal fuse will blow and you will have a dead, generally irreperable,
transformer.

The electrical circuit is pretty simple. A transformer with its
secondary connected to the bottom of the columns and a lamp connected to
the top. The on/off switch may switch the primary or secondary. If it is
a three position switch, it typically switches the secondary and either
changes to a different secondary tap or introduces a rectifier.

In the UK, the "13A" plugtop will have a 3A fuse in it to protect the
twin-wire flex. The lamp will bear a double-insulated logo. The primary
and secondary windings will be wound on different sections of the
former, to provide the insulation needed. The insulating parts of the
former between windings will typically extend out and over the windings
to further reduce the risk of insulation failure and both windings will
be wire-terminated, with the wires for one winding coming from the
opposite side to the wires from the other.

Oh, and there will be holes/slots in the base and in the outer shell
above the transformer, to get some heat out through convection. Such
holes having to pass the idiot with a bread-knife test..

There will be a warning label somewhere that you can't see it (eg, on
the bottom) saying "Do not allow a metal object to come into contact
with the....."

--
Sue

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:05:38 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:36 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 08:48:54 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

STOP THINKING ABOUT MY PENIS!

I was talking about your index finger.

http://www.misternicehands.com/

Ok, I'll pull your appendage.

Touch me and I'll have to kill you.

With that amount of gas, you just might.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Sign on a condom machine: HELP STAMP OUT PEOPLE!

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:06:00 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:14 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Phil "The Shill" Kyle wrote:
ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote in news:WPanf.17098$7r6.9407@trnddc07:

Peter Hucker wrote:

STOP THINKING ABOUT MY PENIS!

No.

pedo

Er..... how old are you?

*ding*

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gary.hart/lyricsb/berryc.html

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

A father is someone who carries pictures where his money used to be.

 

[ah]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:05:38 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:36 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 08:48:54 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

STOP THINKING ABOUT MY PENIS!

I was talking about your index finger.

http://www.misternicehands.com/

Ok, I'll pull your appendage.

Touch me and I'll have to kill you.

With that amount of gas, you just might.

You have no idea...
--
ah

 

[ah]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:06:00 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:14 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Phil "The Shill" Kyle wrote:
ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote in news:WPanf.17098$7r6.9407@trnddc07:

Peter Hucker wrote:

STOP THINKING ABOUT MY PENIS!

No.

pedo

Er..... how old are you?

*ding*

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gary.hart/lyricsb/berryc.html

Musta been frustrating not being able to say penis in public all those years ago.
--
ah

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 13:37:24 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:05:38 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:36 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

http://www.misternicehands.com/

Ok, I'll pull your appendage.

Touch me and I'll have to kill you.

With that amount of gas, you just might.

You have no idea...

Do you smoke?

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Stupidity is the basic building block of the universe - Frank Zappa

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 13:38:19 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:06:00 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:14 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Phil "The Shill" Kyle wrote:

pedo

Er..... how old are you?

*ding*

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gary.hart/lyricsb/berryc.html

Musta been frustrating not being able to say penis in public all those years ago.

We haven't moved forward much.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

The tired doctor was awakened by a phone call in the middle of the night. "Please, you have to come right over," pleaded the distraught young mother. "My child has swallowed a contraceptive."
The physician dressed quickly, but before he could get out the door, the phone rang again.
"You don't have to come over after all," the woman said with a sigh of relief. "My husband just found another one."

 

[Victor Roberts]

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 12:06:45 +0000, Palindr?me
<sb382638@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote:

Lem wrote:
I need some technical help.

I'd like to know what sort of circuit is used for a low voltage
halogen desk lamp such as this one:

http://www.lampsontheweb.com/images/Lamps/ls331trblu.jpg

I'm particularly interested to know what electrical safety features
are included in the circuit because I'm puzzled that when I put a
volt meter across the two metal supports I get almost no voltage
reading!

if there is no potential difference then presumably these supports
could be shorted out without ill effect?

All the ones I have seen have about 12V AC between the telescopic
columns. Are you measuring this with the light lit and with a (working)
AC volt meter on an appropriate range?

I would imagine that there is a thermal fuse built into the windings.
So, if you short the columns to each other for any length of time, the
thermal fuse will blow and you will have a dead, generally irreperable,
transformer.

The electrical circuit is pretty simple. A transformer with its
secondary connected to the bottom of the columns and a lamp connected to
the top. The on/off switch may switch the primary or secondary. If it is
a three position switch, it typically switches the secondary and either
changes to a different secondary tap or introduces a rectifier.

In the UK, the "13A" plugtop will have a 3A fuse in it to protect the
twin-wire flex. The lamp will bear a double-insulated logo. The primary
and secondary windings will be wound on different sections of the
former, to provide the insulation needed. The insulating parts of the
former between windings will typically extend out and over the windings
to further reduce the risk of insulation failure and both windings will
be wire-terminated, with the wires for one winding coming from the
opposite side to the wires from the other.

Oh, and there will be holes/slots in the base and in the outer shell
above the transformer, to get some heat out through convection. Such
holes having to pass the idiot with a bread-knife test..

There will be a warning label somewhere that you can't see it (eg, on
the bottom) saying "Do not allow a metal object to come into contact
with the....."

I haven't seen the original post (I'm posting from
sci.engr.lighting) but if there is no potential difference
between the posts then the power for the lamp is probably
carried by wires that are inside the hollow posts - which
seems to me the most reasonable way to design such lamps.

--
Vic Roberts
http://www.RobertsResearchInc.com
To reply via e-mail:
replace xxx with vdr in the Reply to: address
or use e-mail address listed at the Web site.

This information is provided for educational purposes only.
It may not be used in any publication or posted on any Web
site without written permission.

 

[Palindr☝me]

Victor Roberts wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 12:06:45 +0000, Palindr?me
sb382638@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote:


Lem wrote:

I need some technical help.

I'd like to know what sort of circuit is used for a low voltage
halogen desk lamp such as this one:

http://www.lampsontheweb.com/images/Lamps/ls331trblu.jpg

I'm particularly interested to know what electrical safety features
are included in the circuit because I'm puzzled that when I put a
volt meter across the two metal supports I get almost no voltage
reading!

if there is no potential difference then presumably these supports
could be shorted out without ill effect?

All the ones I have seen have about 12V AC between the telescopic
columns. Are you measuring this with the light lit and with a (working)
AC volt meter on an appropriate range?

I would imagine that there is a thermal fuse built into the windings.
So, if you short the columns to each other for any length of time, the
thermal fuse will blow and you will have a dead, generally irreperable,
transformer.

The electrical circuit is pretty simple. A transformer with its
secondary connected to the bottom of the columns and a lamp connected to
the top. The on/off switch may switch the primary or secondary. If it is
a three position switch, it typically switches the secondary and either
changes to a different secondary tap or introduces a rectifier.

In the UK, the "13A" plugtop will have a 3A fuse in it to protect the
twin-wire flex. The lamp will bear a double-insulated logo. The primary
and secondary windings will be wound on different sections of the
former, to provide the insulation needed. The insulating parts of the
former between windings will typically extend out and over the windings
to further reduce the risk of insulation failure and both windings will
be wire-terminated, with the wires for one winding coming from the
opposite side to the wires from the other.

Oh, and there will be holes/slots in the base and in the outer shell
above the transformer, to get some heat out through convection. Such
holes having to pass the idiot with a bread-knife test..

There will be a warning label somewhere that you can't see it (eg, on
the bottom) saying "Do not allow a metal object to come into contact
with the....."


I haven't seen the original post (I'm posting from
sci.engr.lighting) but if there is no potential difference
between the posts then the power for the lamp is probably
carried by wires that are inside the hollow posts - which
seems to me the most reasonable way to design such lamps.

Yep, very reasonable.

The one in the OP's picture seems to have simple hinges at the top and
bottom which aren't big enough to take a wire through, IMHO.

I actually have many of what I think is this particular lamp. I use them
as work-bench lights. You can actually see through the case to see the
wires in the base terminate at crimp tags under the bolts of the
telescopic legs.

Of course there is another quick way to see - with a 12v lamp and a
couple of bits of wire..

--
Sue

 

[Victor Roberts]

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 16:36:37 +0000, Palindr?me
<sb382638@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote:

Victor Roberts wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 12:06:45 +0000, Palindr?me
sb382638@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote:


Lem wrote:

I need some technical help.

I'd like to know what sort of circuit is used for a low voltage
halogen desk lamp such as this one:

http://www.lampsontheweb.com/images/Lamps/ls331trblu.jpg

I'm particularly interested to know what electrical safety features
are included in the circuit because I'm puzzled that when I put a
volt meter across the two metal supports I get almost no voltage
reading!

if there is no potential difference then presumably these supports
could be shorted out without ill effect?

All the ones I have seen have about 12V AC between the telescopic
columns. Are you measuring this with the light lit and with a (working)
AC volt meter on an appropriate range?

I would imagine that there is a thermal fuse built into the windings.
So, if you short the columns to each other for any length of time, the
thermal fuse will blow and you will have a dead, generally irreperable,
transformer.

The electrical circuit is pretty simple. A transformer with its
secondary connected to the bottom of the columns and a lamp connected to
the top. The on/off switch may switch the primary or secondary. If it is
a three position switch, it typically switches the secondary and either
changes to a different secondary tap or introduces a rectifier.

In the UK, the "13A" plugtop will have a 3A fuse in it to protect the
twin-wire flex. The lamp will bear a double-insulated logo. The primary
and secondary windings will be wound on different sections of the
former, to provide the insulation needed. The insulating parts of the
former between windings will typically extend out and over the windings
to further reduce the risk of insulation failure and both windings will
be wire-terminated, with the wires for one winding coming from the
opposite side to the wires from the other.

Oh, and there will be holes/slots in the base and in the outer shell
above the transformer, to get some heat out through convection. Such
holes having to pass the idiot with a bread-knife test..

There will be a warning label somewhere that you can't see it (eg, on
the bottom) saying "Do not allow a metal object to come into contact
with the....."


I haven't seen the original post (I'm posting from
sci.engr.lighting) but if there is no potential difference
between the posts then the power for the lamp is probably
carried by wires that are inside the hollow posts - which
seems to me the most reasonable way to design such lamps.

Yep, very reasonable.

The one in the OP's picture seems to have simple hinges at the top and
bottom which aren't big enough to take a wire through, IMHO.

I actually have many of what I think is this particular lamp. I use them
as work-bench lights. You can actually see through the case to see the
wires in the base terminate at crimp tags under the bolts of the
telescopic legs.

Of course there is another quick way to see - with a 12v lamp and a
couple of bits of wire..

Hasn't the OP already answer this, at least for his/her
lamp? The post says there is no potential difference between
the posts. I must assume this is with the lamp on, unless
the OP made a ridiculous measurement.

Or, the OP could have used a DC meter on an AC circuit, so
perhaps the question is not settled until the OP responds.

--
Vic Roberts
http://www.RobertsResearchInc.com
To reply via e-mail:
replace xxx with vdr in the Reply to: address
or use e-mail address listed at the Web site.

This information is provided for educational purposes only.
It may not be used in any publication or posted on any Web
site without written permission.

 

[Clive Mitchell]

In message <htpvr1hdc5v719rss73q6ifu1bmkdiublm@4ax.com>, Victor Roberts
<xxx@lighting-research.com> writes

I haven't seen the original post (I'm posting from sci.engr.lighting)
but if there is no potential difference between the posts then the
power for the lamp is probably carried by wires that are inside the
hollow posts - which seems to me the most reasonable way to design such
lamps.

They run 12V AC up the telescopic supports from a standard wire-wound
transformer.

It's most likely the original poster tried to measure the voltage across
the telescopic arms with a meter set to DC and got virtually no voltage
reading as a result.

--
Clive Mitchell
http://www.bigclive.com

 

[Charles Schuler]

No, I mean ELECTRICALLY balanced. And with the feedline at right angles
to the antenna so that it doesn't pick up anything by induction. It's a
tricky thing to do, yet back in the old days hams used to feed dipoles or
extended double zepp antennas with open wire line and not get much RF in
the shack. I know mine didn't.

Ran a Windom in Texas in 1965 (WA5KBO) with only 150W and burned a hole in
my lip (no joke) with the RF on the metal ring around the microphone! The
Windom was a good performer, but I could not effectively ground the rig. I
was in student housing (College Station) and was not allowed antennas but
improvised!

 

[Dave]

rf 'ground' is a real misunderstood thing. and things like this point out
just how poorly understood it is. there is really no need for a radio to be
'grounded' to prevent rf burns or to have an antenna work properly... the
important thing is to remember that at that point where the rf leaves the
radio on the center conductor of the coax connector the current there must
be exactly balanced by a current going the opposite direction the inside of
the shield of the coax connector. looking at the worst possible case, just
stick a random wire in the coax connector and run the rig off a battery with
a short cable and no other 'ground' wire. current flows out the center
conductor of the connector into the exposed wire and somehow has to get back
to the inside of the connector shell to balance it out... well, the only
place for that current to come from is coupling from the antenna wire back
onto the case of the radio and from there it flows back into the connector.
now, put your hand on a metal part of the radio, or your lip if you are
unlucky, and what happens?? you are much bigger than the case of the radio
and you are fairly conductive, so now you provide a bigger collector for the
current from the antenna so lots of it flows through you to get back to the
radio connector... hence rf burns. how to stop it?? provide a lower
impedance path for the rf to get back to the connector than through you.
that can be a counterpoise wire, a 'ground' wire that collects current from
the soil under the antenna, connect the case of the radio to your car and
the car becomes the collector... OR add an equal sized second wire that
'balances' the current from the wire in the center conductor... the critical
point is that it mut be very nearly identical to the first one so the
current in it is the same... a dipole that is symetric with respect to the
feed point will work, but you have to watch out because the case of the
radio is connected to the coax connector also, which tends to unbalance the
equation since there is no equivalent lump of metal on the center conductor
part of the antenna. to make this job of balancing the currents easier we
normally add a length of coax (to get the antenna farther away from the
radio) then add a balun to help force the currents in the two halves of the
dipoles to be equal so there is no need for current to flow from the radio
back into the inside of the shield. a choke on the outside of the feedline
also can help, but the reason is different... a choke on the coax creates a
very high impedance so that current has a hard time flowing from the case of
the radio or outside of the coax back to the inside of the coax. enough
rambling, just remember, rf ground is a myth, all you need to do is get
those currents equal while preventing the path where they flow from being
through you or something else that could be damaged by them.


"Charles Schuler" <charleschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:LpCdnUPvrpJW213enZ2dnUVZ_tOdnZ2d@comcast.com...

No, I mean ELECTRICALLY balanced. And with the feedline at right angles
to the antenna so that it doesn't pick up anything by induction. It's a
tricky thing to do, yet back in the old days hams used to feed dipoles or
extended double zepp antennas with open wire line and not get much RF in
the shack. I know mine didn't.

Ran a Windom in Texas in 1965 (WA5KBO) with only 150W and burned a hole in
my lip (no joke) with the RF on the metal ring around the microphone! The
Windom was a good performer, but I could not effectively ground the rig.
I was in student housing (College Station) and was not allowed antennas
but improvised!

 

[Cecil Moore]

Charles Schuler wrote:

Ran a Windom in Texas in 1965 (WA5KBO) with only 150W and burned a hole in
my lip (no joke) with the RF on the metal ring around the microphone! The
Windom was a good performer, but I could not effectively ground the rig. I
was in student housing (College Station) and was not allowed antennas but
improvised!

Dang Charles, I did exactly the same thing in 1957. If you had
asked me, I would have told you to watch out for those metal
microphones when using a Windom.
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp

 

[ah]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 13:37:24 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:05:38 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:36 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

http://www.misternicehands.com/

Ok, I'll pull your appendage.

Touch me and I'll have to kill you.

With that amount of gas, you just might.

You have no idea...

Do you smoke?

Only when I'm hot, or under duress.

Why?
--
ah

 

[ah]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 13:38:19 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 08:06:00 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:30:14 -0000, ah <splifingate@gmail.com> wrote:

Phil "The Shill" Kyle wrote:

pedo

Er..... how old are you?

*ding*

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gary.hart/lyricsb/berryc.html

Musta been frustrating not being able to say penis in public all those years ago.

We haven't moved forward much.

It's because of the Foreskin Pogrom(tm).
--
ah