Chip with simple program for Toy

[JeB]

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 17:09:38 GMT, "Randy Gross"
<aaawelder@yahoo.com> wrote:

Greetings,

I'm trying to locate information on the hand crank magneto generator
used in vintage phones:

how they were constructed
what charge was produced and how was it used.

I tried Google but my query returned little.

try searching for "field telephone"

 

[Randy Gross]

JeB wrote:

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 17:09:38 GMT, "Randy Gross"
aaawelder@yahoo.com> wrote:

Greetings,

I'm trying to locate information on the hand crank magneto generator
used in vintage phones:

how they were constructed
what charge was produced and how was it used.

I tried Google but my query returned little.


try searching for "field telephone"
no@spam.org

I see that there is a lot of interest in this device. I was hoping to
get an illustrated parts breakdown so that I can get a better
understanding of whats going on when the crank is turned.

If anyone has one or know where I might view a print, I would
appreciate the tip.

rg

 

[John Woodgate]

I read in sci.electronics.design that Jasen Betts
<jasen-b@free.net.nospam.nz> wrote (in
<ki83u2-s0t.ln1@news.compass.net.nz&gt about 'AN: LInks to Lancaster
Classics Project Reprints...', on Fri, 26 Aug 2005:

"pong" as in stink, I have a & month old expert living here, she makes
pongs all by her self...

That's going to be the least of your troubles. The first 18 years are
the worst, and then it gets marginally better. Maybe. (;-)
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

 

[keith]

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:47:17 +1200, Jasen Betts wrote:

I would be wrong to expect a sense of
humour, or much imagination. Very young people are expert at DIY pongs.

Sorry, the language doesn't compute. I've learned what a POM is here,
but PONG is a video game from the early '70s. DIY PONG is a home-built
video game, likely the last in its class.

"pong" as in stink, I have a & month old expert living here, she makes pongs
all by her self...

I understand, now! Do take care of her. Some day you will remeber
her "pongs" with a smile. ;-)

--
Keith

 

[Rich Grise, but drunk]

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:47:17 +1200, Jasen Betts wrote:

I would be wrong to expect a sense of
humour, or much imagination. Very young people are expert at DIY pongs.

Sorry, the language doesn't compute. I've learned what a POM is here,
but PONG is a video game from the early '70s. DIY PONG is a home-built
video game, likely the last in its class.

"pong" as in stink, I have a & month old expert living here, she makes pongs
all by her self...

Floatin' the ol' air biscuit, are we?

Cheers!
Rich

 

[John Miles]

In article <33utt2-l9h.ln1@news.compass.net.nz>, jasen-
b@free.net.nospam.nz says...

In article <3mugfqF18c4orU1@individual.net>, Don Lancaster wrote:

=========================

BTW, Tektronix also released their rights to legacy equipment tech docs.
The big question is when HP will do likewise.

They (Agilent) already have. They grant permission to distribute older
HP manuals on request.... and they also have a full-time marketing guy
who is gathering up as many legacy manuals (and scans of manuals) for
the agilent.com site as he can find.

The hp_agilent_equipment user group on Yahoo has a files section where
the current list of stuff the marketing person is looking for is
maintained. They seem to be making a good-faith effort to undo their
previous attempts to erase all traces of the older HP gear from
existence.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

 

[marika]

Lester Mosley wrote:

Pay no attention to Happydog.

so, who do you think he is trying to con?

Also, nothing was ever his and nothing ever will be

I think he is going senile.

who is he trying to get to rollover?

men always think they own people, and women are dumb enough to believe
them

mk5000

"This is my truth, this is our victory / The blood will flow down from
the sky, angels reaping all of you, faithful or not / The moon will
turn to fire, the sky to ash, sickles reaping all of us, faithful or
not / And we will wait here, swords drawn, ready to fight for you"--
alove for enmies, harveset

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

If you are smart you will keep your screwdriver out of the set. There are
no controls in the set. All is controlled through the service menu. The set
needs service by a tech with the right experience and access to the service
literature. There may or may not be a phase adjustment, but if there is and
it needs adjustment it is likely that either lots more adjustments are off
if the EEPROM is corrupt, and/or there is a problem causing the shift that
needs to be fixed. Likely the latter.

Leonard

"Jasen Betts" <jasen-b@free.net.nospam.nz> wrote in message
news:fgqdu2-20j.ln1@news.compass.net.nz...

In article <Xns96C08CEC66005comtecktelusnet@198.80.55.250>, Comteck wrote:

I've got a 27" JVC TV. The TV works ok, but there is about an inch of
space on the left hand side of the screen that does not display the
picture. It looks like the screen has moved slightly to the right.
Does anyone have any ideas where the problem might be?

Could be a fault developing, or it could just need adjusting. the control
will labeled h-phase, or h position (or have a picture of a square
overlapping the side of another square) and if you're lucky it'll be
accessible from outside the TV - possibly using a philips head
screw-driver in the apropriattely labeled hole..

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Mike Berger]

Unless the TV is at least 15 years old, odds of finding a horizontal
position control are virtually nil. And it's almost certainly
developed a problem. Making a setting adjustment may mask it
for a while, but it will almost certainly get worse. It's
generally cheaper to fix problems when they develop.

Jasen Betts wrote:

Could be a fault developing, or it could just need adjusting. the control
will labeled h-phase, or h position (or have a picture of a square
overlapping the side of another square) and if you're lucky it'll be
accessible from outside the TV - possibly using a philips head
screw-driver in the apropriattely labeled hole..

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Justin]

I'm a second year mechanical engineering grad student right now, and
while it seems I don't use my calculator ( TI-83 ) as much as in
undergrad it is still useful. It seems a lot of my friends however
liked the TI-89 better for its ability to enter and solve equations as
you want. Also, other things I've heard is that CASIO is harder to
learn to use. Don't know anything about the HP's.

That being said, I'ld like to hear when some of these people graduated.
I had one friend that used this old beat up graphing calculator, but
refused to get a new one for some of the same reasons as some of you.
I think he almost quoted Eric Gisse with:
"Doing it on the calculator means slaving yourself to
technology"

I'm just guessing that those who have shunned Steve O are older people
who graduated pre-graphing calculator. (or could be recently and in
your profession one just isn't needed). One trend in courses since the
advent of the calculator is that the work load increased greatly. I'ld
say it would be almost impossible now to go to college without the aid
of a calculator.

i.e. the washing machine did not decrease the amount of time that
traditional women spent cleaning, it increased the amount of cleaning
done in a day. <-- a comment from a technology and society elective

 

[Nanu5871]

Steven O. wrote:

I am returning to school, adult ed kind of thing, to learn about
electronics. For the tests, I need a calculator which can solve
systems of linear equations with complex coefficients. (When doing
the homework at home, I use Mathcad.)

I just went to Radio Shack, and got a case of sticker shock (much like
what I'm feeling these days when I go to buy gasoline for my car). The
cheap calculators, which cannot do systems of linear equations, cost
around $20. The calculators which look like they probably can do
systems of linear equations -- although it's not entirely clear from
the packaging -- jump to around $125 to $150. Prices on E-bay are
cheaper, but I'm not entirely sure what I am buying.

Can someone suggest a few models of calculators that:
1. Can solve systems of linear equations with complex coefficients.
2. Are relatively easy to learn to use, and to do the data entry.
3. If possible, perhaps cost less than $100, though I will spend
$100+ if it's unavoidable.
4. Does other stuff that is like to come up in undergrad level EE
courses and tests.

If anyone really wants to be a Saint, take a peek on E-bay, at some of
the stuff currently on sale, and tell me if any of those calculators
would meet my requirements. (Here's a list of just a few that are
currently being offered under the keywords "Calculator" and
"Scientific": TI-81, TI-83, TI-85, TI-89.)

A check of the TI Web site suggests that the TI-83 or TI-84 have the
features I want, but again, it's hard to know without having used
them. At the high end, they have the Voyager 200 (which costs $200),
and the TI-89 Titanium (which costs $150). Recommendations for the
minimum I really need for my purposes -- and for options for brands
other than TI -- would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for all replies.

Steve O.

"Spying On The College Of Your Choice" -- How to pick the college that is the Best Match for a high school student's needs.
http://www.SpyingOnTheCollegeOfYourChoice.com


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For electronics (associate degree level) we just use a TI-36X solar.
It does Log/anti-log for dB calculations, ENGineering units, fractions,
sin/cos/tan,etc. I also bought a TI-84+ which as they said is a bugger
to enter in complex problems and you would need to study the manual for
it over Xmas break to understand it.
I recommend a notebook with Matlab or MuPad(free) if the instructor lets
you but ask first if it is permitted on the tests.
TI-36X is best for doing 98% of all the problems you will see.
Nanu5871

 

[Nanu5871]

Guess who wrote:

On Fri, 09 Sep 2005 09:39:52 -0500, Mike Berger <berger@shout.net
wrote:


You people sure are judgemental.


I have
no doubt that some of you dinosaurs used charcoal to derive
all advanced formulas from basic premises on the back of your
shovel


That makes sense ...the source of reply, not the rightness of it. You
must be far removed from reality. The calculator is a tool to be used
on occasion. There are other tools thatr serve as well and beter in
some circumstances. The myths surrounding the need for calculator and
computer are being demolished daily. One of the best compliments I
experienced was from a class where neither were used [although I have
taught the use of both.] A year later, one student thanked me with,
"We are teaching the other kids how to do their trig." You have no
idea of what you speak.



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I think you will find that for the most part, TI-36X will do nice for

calculations and MultiSim 7,8, or comparable will be best for the rest
of the electronics stuff.
I have never seen any electronics tech or engineer bother with using the
TI-84,89,etc or other overpowered calculator. They always use a simple
engineering calculator and simulation software.
Save money, headaches, and stress....but if you insist, I would be glad
to sell my TI-84+ silver edition for $129 to you...if you just gotta
have the overpowered calculator in your hands.
Nanu5871

 

[Kitchen Man]

On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 10:55:37 -0500, Mike Berger <berger@shout.net>
wrote:

Jim Spriggs wrote:

If the recommendation is for an expensive calculator, tell the course
administrators that they are morally obliged to indicate in the course
description (or whatever it is that possible future students see before
they actually sign up for the course) that an expensive calculator is
required.

How is it any different than the expensive textbooks that are
often required?

Easy. The calculator is still useful after you graduate.

 

[CWatters]

"Helpmeister" <nospam@all.thx> wrote in message
news:q8OWe.5401$zG1.1826@trnddc05...

Maybe someone could give me a definitive answer on this:
In my car I was using a 300-watt power inverter
snip
The blown glass-type fuse that I removed had 15A imprinted on the side,

What voltage was marked on the one you took out and was it in the plug that
fits in the cigar skt?

Are you sure it's a 300W inverter?...

15A x 12V = 180W

What country are you in?

If the output is 220-240V (eg for the UK/Europe) could the fuse be a 1.5A (1
point 5 Amps) ?

1.5 x 230 = 345 W

 

[John Fields]

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:37:10 -0500, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:30:03 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:56:04 -0400, "Bart" <consultec@fuse.net
wrote:

Hi all,
I want to make 4 LED's light up in the following sequence (looping):
O O _ _
_ O O _
_ _ O O
O _ _ O
O O _ _
_ O O _
_ _ O O
O _ _ O

the above shows it has gone through two sequences, I'll want it to be
continuous and with variable frequency (a potentiometer?)

I've read up on 555 oscillators, logic gates (nand, nor, etc.), flip-flops,
op-amps..........
I don't know where to start. I DO have a nine volt battery and some
LEDs.
Any guidance is greatly appreciated,
Bart

---

OK, here's something that'll work using a CMOS 555 and a couple of
dual "D" type flip-flops:

---
Oops...
Forgot the ground on the power-on reset.

Also, start the thing with the pot cranked to max R. The display
should scroll at about one position change per second.
---



7555 Vcc
+-------+ |
+--|TH R|O-+
| |___ |
+-O|DIS OUT|--+
| +-------+ |
| | Vcc Vcc
+----[POT]<---+ +-----+ | |
| 1M | +----|D | | [100K]
| | | | _| | |
[1ľF] +------|> S|O------+----+
| | | | _| | | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ | [0.1ľF]
| | | | +-----+ | | |
| | | | HC74/2 | | GND
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O------+
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O--+ |
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O------+
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
GND | | +--|D | | |
| | | _| | |
+-|----|> S|O--+ |
| | _| |
+----|Q R|O------+
+-----+
HC74/2


The values of your LED dropping resistors will be:

Vcc - Vled
R = ------------
Iled

For your 9V supply,


Vcc - Vled 9V - 2V
R = ------------ = --------- = 350 ohms
Iled 0.02A


360 ohms is a standard 5% value, so the power they each need to
dissipate will be


(Vcc - Vled)˛ (9V - 2V)˛
P = --------------- = ------------ ~ 0.136 watts
R 360R


so a standard 5% 360 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor will be fine.

---
Crossposted to seb.


--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> schreef in bericht
news:nr3pi1h59p6sioo3c6a06pu0rurmt6mded@4ax.com...

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:37:10 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:30:03 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:56:04 -0400, "Bart" <consultec@fuse.net
wrote:

Hi all,
I want to make 4 LED's light up in the following sequence (looping):
O O _ _
_ O O _
_ _ O O
O _ _ O
O O _ _
_ O O _
_ _ O O
O _ _ O

the above shows it has gone through two sequences, I'll want it to be
continuous and with variable frequency (a potentiometer?)

I've read up on 555 oscillators, logic gates (nand, nor, etc.),
flip-flops,
op-amps..........
I don't know where to start. I DO have a nine volt battery and some
LEDs.
Any guidance is greatly appreciated,
Bart

---

OK, here's something that'll work using a CMOS 555 and a couple of
dual "D" type flip-flops:

---
Oops...
Forgot the ground on the power-on reset.

Also, start the thing with the pot cranked to max R. The display
should scroll at about one position change per second.
---



7555 Vcc
+-------+ |
+--|TH R|O-+
| |___ |
+-O|DIS OUT|--+
| +-------+ |
| | Vcc Vcc
+----[POT]<---+ +-----+ | |
| 1M | +----|D | | [100K]
| | | | _| | |
[1ľF] +------|> S|O------+----+
| | | | _| | | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ | [0.1ľF]
| | | | +-----+ | | |
| | | | HC74/2 | | GND
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O------+
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O--+ |
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O------+
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
GND | | +--|D | | |
| | | _| | |
+-|----|> S|O--+ |
| | _| |
+----|Q R|O------+
+-----+
HC74/2


The values of your LED dropping resistors will be:

Vcc - Vled
R = ------------
Iled

For your 9V supply,


Vcc - Vled 9V - 2V
R = ------------ = --------- = 350 ohms
Iled 0.02A


360 ohms is a standard 5% value, so the power they each need to
dissipate will be


(Vcc - Vled)˛ (9V - 2V)˛
P = --------------- = ------------ ~ 0.136 watts
R 360R


so a standard 5% 360 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor will be fine.

---
Crossposted to seb.


--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

Looks good and a good explanation but... I'm missing a LED John. Or did you
leave it an excercise for the OP?

petrus bitbyter

 

[John Fields]

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 16:51:15 -0500, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:37:10 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 15:30:03 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 13:56:04 -0400, "Bart" <consultec@fuse.net
wrote:

Hi all,
I want to make 4 LED's light up in the following sequence (looping):
O O _ _
_ O O _
_ _ O O
O _ _ O
O O _ _
_ O O _
_ _ O O
O _ _ O

the above shows it has gone through two sequences, I'll want it to be
continuous and with variable frequency (a potentiometer?)

I've read up on 555 oscillators, logic gates (nand, nor, etc.), flip-flops,
op-amps..........
I don't know where to start. I DO have a nine volt battery and some
LEDs.
Any guidance is greatly appreciated,
Bart

---

OK, here's something that'll work using a CMOS 555 and a couple of
dual "D" type flip-flops:

---
Oops...
Forgot the ground on the power-on reset.

Also, start the thing with the pot cranked to max R. The display
should scroll at about one position change per second.
---



7555 Vcc
+-------+ |
+--|TH R|O-+
| |___ |
+-O|DIS OUT|--+
| +-------+ |
| | Vcc Vcc
+----[POT]<---+ +-----+ | |
| 1M | +----|D | | [100K]
| | | | _| | |
[1ľF] +------|> S|O------+----+
| | | | _| | | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ | [0.1ľF]
| | | | +-----+ | | |
| | | | HC74/2 | | GND
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O------+
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O--+ |
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O------+
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
GND | | +--|D | | |
| | | _| | |
+-|----|> S|O--+ |
| | _| |
+----|Q R|O------+
+-----+
HC74/2

---
Aaarrghhh!!!

I forgot the fourth LED, and the 7555's RESET is negative true...

7555
+-------+
+--|TH OUT|O-+
| |___ _| |
+-O|DIS R|O----Vcc
| +-------+ | Vcc
| | Vcc |
+----[POT]<---+ +-----+ | [100K]
| | | _| | |
| 1M | +----|D Q| | |
| | | | _| | |
[1ľF] +------|> S|O------+----+
| | | | _| | | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ | [0.1ľF]
| | | | +-----+ | | |
| | | | HC74/2 | | GND
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O------+
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O--+ |
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O------+
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +-|----|> S|O--+ |
| | | _| |
+-[<LED]--[R]---+----|Q R|O------+
| +-----+
GND HC74/2
_
Also, a better way to run the LEDs would be off of the Q's. The
starting (and running) sequence could be made the same as if they
were being driven by the Q's by complementing the SETs and RESETs,
but there'd no LED loads on the Q's and, consequently, no problem
with logic input thresholds being load dependent.

Wire it up the way it's shown and if you have problems with it, post
back and I'll be happy to help you get it right.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Pooh Bear]

The unknown Posterchild wrote:

Since self-abuse is the most sincere form of flattery, I offer Version 2.3
of the circuit in question.

http://www.get-noticed.com/darkwood/preamp_v2.3.jpg

It needs some more work but you guys stopped abusing me so I felt unloved.

Do you have a specific aversion to using op-amps ? Your discrete amplifer
sections will certainly add some 'colouration' ! It's not even as if they make
for especially low current consumption.

AC coupling of the drains of J1 and J2 will cause some interesting
intermodulation too.

The level control after the passive eq will cause a loading effect that'll most
likely screw up the eq itself. Active eq is the answer.

Graham

 

[Pooh Bear]

Ban wrote:

John Woodgate wrote:
I read in alt.binaries.schematics.electronic that The unknown
Posterchild <asleep@thewheel.com> wrote (in
vo4Xe.23$_55.8@bignews6.bellsouth.net&gt about 'design help needed',
on Sat, 17 Sep 2005:
It needs some more work but you guys stopped abusing me so I felt
unloved.

Battery life may be a bit short.

Why have you still got 3 Mohm input impedance? Everyone told you that
for capacitor microphones you need something between 1.5 kohm and 4.7
kohm. You also show a number of non-standard resistor values, which
you can't get.

This "design" terribly looks alike my first hobbyist attempts as a kid in
the 60s. Obviously the OP has still to arrive at the opamp aera.

I'm sure some ppl were still doing stuff like this for MI in the early 70s.

Graham

 

[John Fields]

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:09:58 -0500, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

Aaarrghhh!!!

I forgot the fourth LED, and the 7555's RESET is negative true...

7555
+-------+
+--|TH OUT|O-+
| |___ _| |
+-O|DIS R|O----Vcc
| +-------+ | Vcc
| | Vcc |
+----[POT]<---+ +-----+ | [100K]
| | | _| | |
| 1M | +----|D Q| | |
| | | | _| | |
[1ľF] +------|> S|O------+----+
| | | | _| | | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ | [0.1ľF]
| | | | +-----+ | | |
| | | | HC74/2 | | GND
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O------+
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O--+ |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +------|> S|O--+ |
| | | | _| | |
| | | +--|Q R|O------+
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | | HC74/2 | |
+-[<LED]--[R]-----+ | |
| | | | | |
| | | | +-----+ | |
| | | +--|D | | |
| | | | _| | |
| +-|----|> S|O--+ |
| | | _| |
+-[<LED]--[R]---+----|Q R|O------+
| +-----+
GND HC74/2

Also, a better way to run the LEDs would be off of the Q's. The
starting (and running) sequence could be made the same as if they
were being driven by the Q's by complementing the SETs and RESETs,
but there'd no LED loads on the Q's and, consequently, no problem
with logic input thresholds being load dependent.

Wire it up the way it's shown and if you have problems with it, post
back and I'll be happy to help you get it right.

---
More problems.

HC74's aren't supposed to run on 9V, so you'd have to use something
like a 78L05 to get that 9V down to 5V if you used HCMOS, and
recalculate the LED series R's.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer