Chip with simple program for Toy

On 2005-06-28, Doug McLaren <dougmc@frenzy.com> wrote:

Yes, you actually have to be moving the pedal with your entire
weight for those 6 seconds, but with a spring and proper
gearing or leverage, you can reproduce the same two pound push
for 600 seconds.

So, what I really need to do is put this magic pedal under one
of the corners of my bed (so it's supporting much of my
weight), and then take a nap on it.
You think too small. Park your car on it overnight! After
eight hours, you could store up enough thrust-hours to
accellerate your car at 1G for eight hours! That should be
more than enough thrust to get it into orbit. Remember to take
some O2. Oh, you might want to save up some thrust-hours to
make a controlled re-entry.

Unlimited free energy! I could put one of these pedals into
an electric R/C plane, wrap it in rubber bands (so there's a
constant force on it) and use that to fly my electric plane
across the Atlantic. Look out Maynard! Look out laws of
thermodynamics -- I've got a perpetual motion machine, in R/C
form!
On my way to the patent office, looking over my shoulder for
snipers working for the oil companies....

--
Grant Edwards grante Yow! Pardon me, but do you
at know what it means to be
visi.com TRULY ONE with your BOOTH!
 
On 2005-06-28, Steve Banks <none@here.isfine> wrote:

| weight on the pedal for 1200/200 seconds or 6 SECONDS!

Your understanding of the idea of work (in the physics sense) is very
flawed bla bla bla.

I guess you missed the relationship between thrust and time.
Hint: pretend the airplane is just a fancy rocket. In this
example it is putting out 2 lbs. of thrust, for 600 seconds,
we are disregarding the weight of the rocket.

Yes, you actually have to be moving the pedal with your entire
weight for those 6 seconds, but with a spring and proper
gearing or leverage, you can reproduce the same two pound push
for 600 seconds.

Wrong.

Gears and levers do not provide a ratio between thrust/time and
thrust/time. The ratio provided by gearing/leverage provides
ratios of thrust/distance -- which is what was explained to you
using the formula for work.

Thanks, I am quite familiar with the formula. The point of the SPRING was
to store the energy that it could be dissapated as a two pound push for a
longer period.
I realize that. However, you seem to think that force
integrated over time is energy. It isn't force integrated over
_distance_ is energy. Energy is conserved. Thrust-time is not.

Reaching for the work formula will not help you see this
relationship

Because there is no such relationship.

What are you afraid of?!?
Well, there's a pretty long list, but I don't think it has
anythign to do with this discussion.

without a bit of algebra, and that woud be contrary to my
stated goal of a quick guess ;).

Quick, but not founded in real physics.

Ok, if you don't trust my instincts then look at Newtons
second law and pretend we are pushing on a large rock in space
with our pedal.

We have known forces( 2 and 200lbs.) , assume a large mass,
the times are known(600 and 6 seconds), the terminal
velocities can be computed and will be the SAME if we push for
600 seconds with 2 lbs or 6 seconds with 200 lbs.
Only because the mass you're accellerating is the same in both
cases. This results in the distance moved by the smaller force
being much larger.

The only trick here is in finding the right sized rock to
limit how far you have to move the pedal in those 6 seconds.
I give up.

--
Grant Edwards grante Yow! I just forgot my
at whole philosophy of life!!!
visi.com
 
On 2005-06-28, Steve Banks <none@here.isfine> wrote:

That wasn't the point, and you grossly deviated when you made the comparison
of a ~1500mah 9.6 power pack to a 12V 7000ah battery. With a more correct
battery pack for the thrust and duration given it comes out to just under
120 strokes, or about a minute on the treadmill, which happens to be within
an order of magnitude of my 6 second guess. So thanks for lending validity
to my theory, which BTW didn't take me years of specialized college
coursework to realize.
OK, we'll try this again.

1.5A * 9.6V * 3600s = 51840 joules. Somebody in decent shape on
a bicylce (far more efficient than a treadmill) can put out
50-100 joules/second for an extended period of time. On the
conservative side, we'll say 50W. Assuming 50% efficiency for
the combination generator and whatnot:

1.5 * 9.6 * 3600
------------------ = 2074 seconds = 35 minutes.
50 * 0.5


Assuming 100W (you'd better be in pretty good shape), and a
100% efficient generator and battery (let me know where you
plan on buyign those) it's a fourth of that -- about 9 minutes.

Still not within an order of magnitude of 6 seconds.

--
Grant Edwards grante Yow! My polyvinyl cowboy
at wallet was made in Hong
visi.com Kong by Montgomery Clift!
 
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 07:54:24 GMT, "Ban" <bansuri@web.de> wrote:

Right, but 1GHz and up has never been done with through-hole parts.
---
Sure it has. Take a look at some old Fairchild, Motorola, and Plessey
ECL.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
 
On 28 Jun 2005 07:41:44 -0700, "js5895" <JoshTmp@nycap.rr.com>
wrote:

Hi,

I bought lighted wiper nozzles for my car. Do I have to cut the head
light wires
or is there another way to not cut them. Also if I have to cut the
wires, what's the best method for splicing them together, if its solder
can you tell me of a website on how to solder wires.
there are plastic wiring devices at automotive stores that will
"tap" power from a wire .... it pushes a metal probe into the one
with power and connects it to the one you want to provide power to.
I'd choose the parking lites and not the headlights if you are going
to use this method. Otherwise get a wiring diagram for you car and
find out where power is provided when the lights are turned on and
tap in there.
 
what a silly thread. GO FLY!!

"Grant Edwards" <grante@visi.com> wrote in message
news:11c2o083a2bt778@corp.supernews.com...
On 2005-06-28, Steve Banks <none@here.isfine> wrote:

That wasn't the point, and you grossly deviated when you made the
comparison
of a ~1500mah 9.6 power pack to a 12V 7000ah battery. With a more
correct
battery pack for the thrust and duration given it comes out to just under
120 strokes, or about a minute on the treadmill, which happens to be
within
an order of magnitude of my 6 second guess. So thanks for lending
validity
to my theory, which BTW didn't take me years of specialized college
coursework to realize.

OK, we'll try this again.

1.5A * 9.6V * 3600s = 51840 joules. Somebody in decent shape on
a bicylce (far more efficient than a treadmill) can put out
50-100 joules/second for an extended period of time. On the
conservative side, we'll say 50W. Assuming 50% efficiency for
the combination generator and whatnot:

1.5 * 9.6 * 3600
------------------ = 2074 seconds = 35 minutes.
50 * 0.5


Assuming 100W (you'd better be in pretty good shape), and a
100% efficient generator and battery (let me know where you
plan on buyign those) it's a fourth of that -- about 9 minutes.

Still not within an order of magnitude of 6 seconds.

--
Grant Edwards grante Yow! My polyvinyl
cowboy
at wallet was made in Hong
visi.com Kong by Montgomery
Clift!
 
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 08:24:04 +0200, Dr Engelbert Buxbaum wrote:

Shannons theorem says that in order to see a signal with frequency n,
the sampling rate needs to be at least 2*n.
That's Nyquist's sampling theorem, surely.

Shannon's law deals with channel capacity and signal to noise ratio:

C = B log(base2)(1+S/N)

--
"Electricity is of two kinds, positive and negative. The difference
is, I presume, that one comes a little more expensive, but is more
durable; the other is a cheaper thing, but the moths get into it."
(Stephen Leacock)
 
On 28 Jun 2005 10:49:32 -0700, "js5895" <JoshTmp@nycap.rr.com> wrote:

Why the parking lights, even the instructions that
came with them, say the parking lights, but I never
use the parking lights so, I will never see them.
I have the wiring diagram to my car and I know
where both are.

Thanks.
In most vehicles, the parking lights are on when the headlights are
on.

The reasons for using the parking light wire:

1. it's physically smaller than the headlight wire and more likely to
fit in a press-on "tap" connector

2. If you do something wrong, you won;t kill the headlights.
 
"Grant Edwards" <grante@visi.com> wrote in message
news:11c2nbs7beaosbe@corp.supernews.com...
On 2005-06-28, Steve Banks <none@here.isfine> wrote:

....

We have known forces( 2 and 200lbs.) , assume a large mass,
the times are known(600 and 6 seconds), the terminal
velocities can be computed and will be the SAME if we push for
600 seconds with 2 lbs or 6 seconds with 200 lbs.

Only because the mass you're accellerating is the same in both
cases. This results in the distance moved by the smaller force
being much larger.
True, but the resulting energy that you can extract from the same sized rock
moving at the same velocity is the same.

The only trick here is in finding the right sized rock to
limit how far you have to move the pedal in those 6 seconds.

I give up.
That is an acceptable answer, I would have also accepted "you idiot!!!" or
"remind me to slap your mama!!!"

Really, it doesn't work, I'm quite aware of that. (hint: momentum !=
energy), I really just like messing with fizzycists like Doug "Watch out for
that slow moving meteor!!" Mclaren
8^o
 
One day sandeep got dressed and committed to text

Hi to all ,
I want to know about the different BJT/FETamplifier configurations
about their working and which component is used in them and why?
And how they are used practically?
Thank you.


Reply

Get off ya butt and down to the library or bookshop !!

--
Regards ..... Rheilly Phoull
 
sandeep wrote:

Hi to all ,
I want to know about the different BJT/FETamplifier configurations
about their working and which component is used in them and why?

Common collector circuits.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/npncc.html

I saw the end of the above url as meaning something, "npncc =
npn transistor common collector circuit", so I changed the
last c to an e, and as I had guessed, there is the common emitter
circuit.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/npnce.html
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/npncb.html

I try to access the same catalog without a filename
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/

There are a lot of files with more information here.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/npnce2.html
for example, a continuation of ..npnce.html

Hmmm, I found the main index.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/hframe.html

And how they are used practically?
The ce stage is the most common circuit, gives good voltage
and current amplification.

The cb stage is used in radio circuits.

The cc stage is often called emitter follower, and is used here
and there in all kinds of electronics.


--
Roger J.
 
Roger Johansson wrote:

The ce stage is the most common circuit, gives good voltage
and current amplification.
Here is a table over the characteristics of the 3 basic circuits
for bipolar transistors, scroll down 30% of web page:

<http://people.deas.harvard.edu/~jones/es154/lectures/lecture_3/bjt_amps
/bjt_amps.html>

The index: http://people.deas.harvard.edu/~jones/es154/
Lots of useful stuff here, and beautiful graphics.

I looked at other papers this guy has on the web.
Here is a little index http://people.deas.harvard.edu/~jones/

His papers lead me to even more valuable texts about electronics.

http://www.educatorscorner.com/index.cgi?CONTENT_ID=1131

http://www.educatorscorner.com/index.cgi?CONTENT_ID=1129

There is an incredible amount of knowledge and well written texts
on the web, if you can find them.

Here is a bunch of links to electronics tutorials:
http://people.deas.harvard.edu/~jones/es154/pages/tutorials.htm



--
Roger J.
 
"Ban" <bansuri@web.de> wrote in message
news:S2hve.2377$h5.132195@news3.tin.it...
cgwiita@ucla.edu wrote:
I'm making a simple electronic-transmission controller for my car, but
I seemed to have run into a problem. The basic idea is to control
three solenoids with a BASIC stamp. I've got everything working like
it should, but I'm having trouble on the output circuits to the
solenoids. Here's the problem: I need to send 12v out of the control
box and to the solenoid (they are grounded internally in the
transmission) with transistor switches. I can't for the life of me
however, figure out a way to send out 12v from the controller,
controlled with the 0-5v of the Stamp pins (doesnt matter if the Stamp
needs to switch high or low). I have the 12v available to me in the
controller, so its really a matter of switching the 12v in the box to
the solenoid 3 feet away. I guess what I'm getting stumped on, is
that with everything I try to setup, theres always a voltage drop
from what I want to switch (the 12v) to the base (0 or 5v, its always
lower...)

Some specs:
solenoids, 10ohm
transistor im using (NTE11)- NPN, Hfe minimum of 230, max current
capacity 5A

Any ideas?

Yes, The transistor needs to be PNP (NTE12), because the solenoids are
grounded. And you need another NPN like 2N3906 to make a level translator.

12V PNP
o-----o------ -----------o
| \ v |
| --- |
| ___ | |
'-|___|-o |
10k | |
.-. |
| |560 |
| |0.5W |
'-' |
| 1N4001 |
INPUT | .---o
___ |/ | |_
o-|___|-o---| NPN - )|
4k7 | |> ^ )|
.-. | | ._)|
| | | '---o
10k| | | |
'-' | ===
| | GND
=== ===
GND GND
(created by AACircuit v1.28 beta 10/06/04 www.tech-chat.de)
View/font fixed

--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy
Hello Ban,
I believe the 3906 is a PNP and the 3904 is the NPN.
Cordially,
west
 
west wrote:
"Ban" <bansuri@web.de> wrote in message
news:S2hve.2377$h5.132195@news3.tin.it...
cgwiita@ucla.edu wrote:
I'm making a simple electronic-transmission controller for my car,
but I seemed to have run into a problem. The basic idea is to
control three solenoids with a BASIC stamp. I've got everything
working like it should, but I'm having trouble on the output
circuits to the solenoids. Here's the problem: I need to send 12v
out of the control box and to the solenoid (they are grounded
internally in the transmission) with transistor switches. I can't
for the life of me however, figure out a way to send out 12v from
the controller, controlled with the 0-5v of the Stamp pins (doesnt
matter if the Stamp needs to switch high or low). I have the 12v
available to me in the controller, so its really a matter of
switching the 12v in the box to the solenoid 3 feet away. I guess
what I'm getting stumped on, is that with everything I try to
setup, theres always a voltage drop from what I want to switch (the
12v) to the base (0 or 5v, its always lower...)

Some specs:
solenoids, 10ohm
transistor im using (NTE11)- NPN, Hfe minimum of 230, max current
capacity 5A

Any ideas?

Yes, The transistor needs to be PNP (NTE12), because the solenoids
are grounded. And you need another NPN like 2N3906 to make a level
translator.

12V PNP
o-----o------ -----------o
| \ v |
| --- |
| ___ | |
'-|___|-o |
10k | |
.-. |
| |560 |
| |0.5W |
'-' |
| 1N4001 |
INPUT | .---o
___ |/ | |_
o-|___|-o---| NPN - )|
4k7 | |> ^ )|
.-. | | ._)|
| | | '---o
10k| | | |
'-' | ===
| | GND
=== ===
GND GND
(created by AACircuit v1.28 beta 10/06/04 www.tech-chat.de)
View/font fixed

Hello Ban,
I believe the 3906 is a PNP and the 3904 is the NPN.
Cordially,
west
Yes, I always mess them up. Also the drawing is messed up. The emitter of
the PNP should be at the input voltage. ASCII kills me! I use mainly
European part numbers, BC546(NPN) BC556(PNP) or BC337(NPN) and BC327(PNP)
for higher current.
--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy
 
On 28 Jun 2005 18:00:23 -0700, "Continuum" <chaoscontinuum@gmail.com>
wrote:

Thanks everyone for your extremely quick and well detailed responses.

I was just wondering as I am just starting out with my electronics
hobby and was
wondering if learning to make PCB's is worth my time or if i should
just use surface
mounted.
If you use surface mount parts, you _need_ a PC board. Circuits using
through-hole parts can be made on perf board.




--
Peter Bennett VE7CEI
email: peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
GPS and NMEA info and programs: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter/index.html
Newsgroup new user info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
 
<jjbutera@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1120079406.415840.269950@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
My friend acquired a police lightbar from an old police cruiser, and we
thought it might be fun to use it with our band on stage. I haven't had
a chance to look at it closely yet to inspect the ratings and such, but
I'd like to be able to convert it so instead of running of a car's 12V
battery that it be plugged in to run on 120V AC. I believe this thing
probably draws 30 to 40 amps from the car battery.

Can anybody tell me how I would go about with this conversion? The
light bar has three stages (spots, intersection lights, main spinning
lights). I'm creating a stompbox that we can use to turn off/on each
stage. I know how to do this. I just don't know how to do the 12V DC
conversion to 120V AC.

I hope I'm correct in assuming that I can decrease the amperage
significantly by increasing the voltage (P=I*V) or else it becomes
unusable in an outlet served by a 15A breaker.

Any suggestions on how to do this conversion? It seems that it should
be pretty easy. I just don't know the steps involved.

Jason

Hi Jason,

Your easiest solution would be to power it from a 12 Volt supply. Get the
max. current specs at 12 V. and get a power supply that can handle it.
Converting all the circuits to 120 V internally is probably not worth the
trouble.- IMHO.
Regards,
Tom
 
Er, i think the best way to charge a car battery, is to leave it in the car.
<wanjung@toast.net> wrote in message
news:1119933540.711655.94660@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
junk1@davidbevan.co.uk wrote:
This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?


Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

I hope you can forgive me. This way off topic. I don't know what
happened, but I have been unable to log onto this usenet for the
longest time and am just trying to see if I could do it. Strangely, now
I can whereas I could not for almost a year.

However I do know people have been using car batteries for charging Li
Polies sucessfully. They just use a 12 volt charger to recharge the
batery. No problems.

Wan
 
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 23:22:31 GMT, "olddog" <olddog@newtrox.com> wrote:

Er, i think the best way to charge a car battery, is to leave it in the car.
---
And drive around for a while.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
 
"sandeep" <sandeepalankar@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1119952135.530998.45670@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I want to know about the different BJT/FETamplifier configurations
about their working and which component is used in them and why?
And how they are used practically?
Take a look at TI's "Op Amps for Everyone" by Ron Mancini and also
Frederiksen's "Intuitive IC Op Amps" (out of print, though).

You question is pretty general, though -- it's like asking, "I want to know
about the different regular reciprocating/Hemi/Wankel car engine
configurations and which components are used in them and why?" To get a full
answer you're signing up for a lot of reading...
 

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