Chip with simple program for Toy

[Active8]

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 19:17:05 +0000, Fred Abse wrote:

On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 17:16:21 -0500, Active8 wrote:

pedant mode
"to which you are replying"
/pedant mode



thus "f grammar" I should start *speaking* in pedant mode. Maybe
that will keep the neanderthals away.

I took "f grammar" as an invitation to tease

Ok.

snip

Thanks. I missed that the first time. And no cygwin needed! I'm
going to give cygwin another try, though.

Same prob trying to get Cygwin to install the missing dll
cygintl-3.dll. Rea the faqs. Might post to the list. I'm not holding
my breath.

Bite the bullet. Get into Linux. You'll tear your hair for about six
months, then things will suddenly drop into place, and you'll wonder how
you ever managed without it.

I've used Linux and Free BSD for file servers and they work great. I
just need to get a new version of Mandrake and another box. My old
Redhat is just to buggy (?) and slow on the old 450 MHz box I used.
I don't want to post re the Samba / XP problem(s) while I'm using
such an old version.
--
Best Regards,
Mike

 

[Roger Johansson]

"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:

Futurlec is awesome but they take forever to ship.

Yes, my initial investment in parts (i bought one each of all their
value packs) was from futurlec.
It was just over 2.5 weeks between the time i placed my order and the
parts shipped.

If they sent the stuff halfway around the globe by ship I think 2.5 weeks
total shipment time is very acceptable.


--
Roger J.

 

[Andreas Rutz]

Michael Black wrote:

I don't know, but surplus stores used to advertise surplus phone
ringers (ie from military field phones) as useful for bringing worms
to the surface. These were hand-cranked generators, which I don't
know the output of, but if someone else does it might answer the
question.

Michael

It's around 100V AC , 20Hz for these old-stlye field telephones. Maybe ist
is a possibility to use current limited mains voltage. Use an isolation
transformer under any circumstances and be very careful what you are doing!
Or get such a military phone...

Andreas

 

[Lord Garth]

"Andreas Rutz" <enemy_soldier@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d253mp$cu$1@news.hispeed.ch...

Michael Black wrote:

I don't know, but surplus stores used to advertise surplus phone
ringers (ie from military field phones) as useful for bringing worms
to the surface. These were hand-cranked generators, which I don't
know the output of, but if someone else does it might answer the
question.

Michael


It's around 100V AC , 20Hz for these old-stlye field telephones. Maybe ist
is a possibility to use current limited mains voltage. Use an isolation
transformer under any circumstances and be very careful what you are
doing!
Or get such a military phone...

I wonder if the fire ant would leave if the soil were energized?

 

[Roger Johansson]

"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:

Actually, I placed the order, and it didn't get packed and shipped for
2.5 weeks.

That is very irritating. I hate when that happens.
The company should tell all customers about such delays at their web
site, so the customers know about it before even considering placing an
order.

On the other hand, most companies in the world never inform of that, so
it is not like they are alone in that behavior.

It then took another week to travel halway around the world. The week
for travel time is acceptable, sure. It's just that they sat on the
order for a while after I placed it.

Maybe they are not storing all the products they say they have in store,
so it takes time to get the stuff from their sub-contractors. That is
often the real cause for delays.


--
Roger J.

 

On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:39:23 -0500, "Michael" <newszz10@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Does an ISDN line function as both a POTS and ISDN
line. (yes--stupid?)

The system detects the difference and switches to adapt?
(yes--stupid?)

So on an ISDN line you would still see 90vac ringing voltage from ANY
incoming call? (yes--stupid?)

ISDN is a digital phone line. You're probably talkng about "ISDN
basic rate interface" (ISDN-BRI), which has 1 signalling channel and 2
data channels, also known as "2B+D". The signalling channel (the
"D") sets up the call and controls ringing function. The actual call
takes place on a "B" (for "data-Bearing") channel.

The ringing voltage is generated in the ISDN "modem" (adapter) that
you'd have at your house (or whereever the ISDN line is to be).

I used to have ISDN service that my job was paying for, and I used it
for my office phone plus ISDN internet. Once we figured out they were
being billed over $200 each month in useage changes, I got rid of it!
Some areas have true flat-rate plans (Kentuckey is one), so there is
woudl make more sense to use. You didn't ask about that aspect, I'm
just throwing that bit out there.

Hope that helps.

 

[Tom Biasi]

<stu@aaronj.com> wrote in message
news:1111927639.273294.85840@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

These paragraphs are from an article about a homebuilt hybrid car in
Mother Earth News.

"Any project fresh off the drawing board has its share of problems, and
the Opel hybrid was no exception. When David pressed the accelerator
for the first time, he got a 300-amp surge which melted his relays. So
he searched his graduate texts for the answer ... and finally found it
in-of all places-an old high school physics book: A pulser was
necessary to "chop" the current flow and prevent a heavy initial draw
to the drive motor.

As Dave explains it, "The motor will always have full voltage and full
current, but the pulser makes it 'think' the voltage and amperage are
cut down to about 1/4 of what's actually available. With this
gadget-which is simply a combination of a reworked car generator and an
old fan motor-I can keep the draw within limits and effectively control
the car's acceleration . . . without sacrificing the maximum current or
voltage that's necessary for high-speed driving. I could have achieved
the same results with a commercially available FCR control ... but one
of those units would have cut my power slightly, and cost in the
neighborhood of $800! I can build my own device for about $25, and I
can fix it myself if it breaks!"


Boyntonstu

The article is talking about controlling the motor speed my adjusting the
duty cycle of the pulses being sent to it.
Look up DC motor speed controllers and this type will be discussed
somewhere.
It seems the person made his own version with some simple parts but as you
can see he goes into no detail.
Tom

 

[Fritz Schlunder]

<stu@aaronj.com> wrote in message
news:1111927639.273294.85840@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Hey. Crosspost properly. Not only did you crosspost improperly, but you
also made subtle changes to the title. Grrr!

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 02:06:35 GMT, "Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net>
wrote:

"Andreas Rutz" <enemy_soldier@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d253mp$cu$1@news.hispeed.ch...
Michael Black wrote:

I don't know, but surplus stores used to advertise surplus phone
ringers (ie from military field phones) as useful for bringing worms
to the surface. These were hand-cranked generators, which I don't
know the output of, but if someone else does it might answer the
question.

Michael


It's around 100V AC , 20Hz for these old-stlye field telephones. Maybe ist
is a possibility to use current limited mains voltage. Use an isolation
transformer under any circumstances and be very careful what you are
doing!
Or get such a military phone...


I wonder if the fire ant would leave if the soil were energized?


I wonder if they would just catch on fire. But as to the question of

bringing worms to the surface: How could you be so mean? Well, if you
are that cruel, wanting to shock defenseless worms until they do your
bidding and all, you'll need about 90 volts minimum. It seems AC works
best. I dunno why, but that's what worked when I was a kid. And after
you get all those worms to surface mebbe you should consider a career
in the military working at Gitmo.
ERS

 

[Bob]

<mister.steve.smith@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1111974259.538374.219450@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I am simulating a single supply opamp in an inverting opamp
configuration with gain set to 1. I/P is an ac sine 200mVpp 0Voffset. I
am using the TLC081 TI single supply opamp spice model.
Qn) When input sine wave becomes +ve wrt gnd , then o/p should drive
negative. Of course that can't happen because we have a single supply
system. In the simulation i see an o/p DC offset(300mV) wrt which the
o/p sine wave swings up and down. Does this mean that in a single
supply opamp the o/p always gets a DC offset even if input has no DC in
it? I don't qualatatively understand what happens when V- input of a
single supply opamp crosses the V+ input(0V always in this case).
Thanks

If the + input is more negative than the - input then the output will head
toward the most negative supply that the opamp's power pins are connected
to. If the most negative supply is what you're calling "gnd" then that's the
most negative voltage that the output can get to.

Typically, in a single-supply opamp that's hooked up in an inverting
configuration, the + input is biased at the midpoint of the supply. For
example, if the supply is 9V, then the + input will be set to 4.5V. If you
then capacitively couple the - input (through the feedforward resistor) then
the output will move up and down from its idle 4.5V point (as the input is
driven with a changing signal).

An interesting thing happens if you capacitively couple the output. Then,
you can get an output signal that goes more negative than your most-negative
supply ("gnd", in your case). This is how car audio amplifiers can get
speakers to move both outward and inward, on those type of amplifiers that
require one side of the speaker to be connected to the minus side of the
car's 12V battery (i.e., the car's chassis).

Bob

 

[Chris Dugan]

<elehman1@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:STR1e.21517$rL3.11988@fe2.columbus.rr.com...

Should the used pins be left unconnected or should they be taken to
ground?


It depends entireley on the device in use.

Chris

 

[John Fields]

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 08:57:21 -0800, "Larry Brasfield"
<donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com> wrote:

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:ls7g419rupl4j9ar8d5f9lbrjjnb8bjrop@4ax.com...
On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 09:42:21 -0500, "Glenn Ashmore" <gashmore@cox.net
wrote:

This is more of an electricity question than electronic but: We just
finished running water and power to a new construction site. Water is in a
copper pipe run about 1,000' through the woods burried about 2' deep that
just ends in a 2' vertical piece with a faucet on top. Power runs parallel
to the pipe about 100' away to a transformer on a pole at the construction
end.

The mystery is that there is a 25-30VAC difference between the faucet and
the mud puddle below it. Touch the faucet without wearing rubber boots and
you get shocked! I can see how a current might be induced into the pipe as
it runs along the power line but how can there be a potential between the
ends of a 24" copper pipe???

---
There isn't, there's a differential between the secondary of a
transformer (the 1000 feet of pipe) running in parallel with the
primary of the transformer (the power line) and the puddle.


There are two difficulties with that analysis.

1. The currents flowing in the power cable should be somewhat
well balanced and they flow within an inch or two of each other.
The conductors carrying those currents will have some degree
of twisting, tending to cancel when considering the net coupling
to any single parallel conductor. Magnetic coupling coefficients
sufficient to effect a 30/240 stepdown are highly improbable.

2. The copper pipe may be in the same trench, but it should be
separated by some distance. (I forget the code requirement,
but enforcing it is part of the reason an inspection is required
before the trench is filled in.) Unless the pipe is jacketed, (a
condition not stated by the OP), the fill around it will further
serve to reduce the coupling from nearby power conductors.

---
If it's not magnetic, then it's either capacitive crosstalk or
leakage.
---

As I stated in another post, the OP's observations could easily
be due to an unsafe condition that should be investigated by
a competent person on site, who can discover the additional
facts necessary to explain and correct the problem. This is
true regardless of any debate that might occur regarding the
magnetic coupling. I should hope that Mr. Fields is able to
concur with that view, even if he disagrees with my points
about magnetic coupling.

---
_Able_ to concur, you pompous ass? I'm able to do whatever I _choose_
to do, with or without any prompting from you. As a matter of fact,
I'd prefer not to be associated with you at all so, in the future,
stand on your own two feet and don't involve me in posts which require
rubber-stamping validation of your views. Glenn Ashmore isn't stupid,
and whether I _choose_ to concur with your view or not, I'm sure he'll
consider your view and do whatever's required to keep from killing
himself or someone else.


--
John Fields

 

[John Fields]

On 28 Mar 2005 08:11:30 -0800, "rollajarhead"
<rolla_jarhead@yahoo.com> wrote:

Below is the matrix filled out and as to what happnes if more then one
switch is pushed the controler will not allow it.

SWITCH OUTPUT CONDITIONS
PRESSED
ZOOM FOCUS COMMON MENU
--------+--------+--------+---­------+-------+
NONE | | | | |
--------+--------+--------+---­------+-------+
IN | +12 | 0V | GND | 0V |
--------+--------+--------+---­------+-------+
OUT | GND | 0V | +12 | 0V |
--------+--------+--------+---­------+-------+
NEAR | 0V | 12V | GND | 0V |
--------+--------+--------+---­------+-------+
FAR | 0V | GND | +12V | 0V |
--------+--------+--------+---­------+-------+
MENU | 0V | 0V | GND | +12V |
--------+--------+--------+---­------+-------+

More information on this problem, I have a control unit built by one
company and a camera by another and I am trying to solve the interface
problem.

---
OK. If that's the matrix for the camera, the columns should be
labelled "INPUT CONDITIONS" since that's what you have to put _into_
the camera in order to make it do what you want it to. What I've got
so far, then, is that you have a camera with four control inputs which
look tike this:


+--------+
ZOOM>-------| |
| |
FOCUS>------| |
| |
MENU>-------| |
| |
COMMON>-----| |
+--------+


Also, from the table, it looks like if you want it to zoom in you
connect +12V to ZOOM and GND to COMMON, but if you want it to zoom out
you connect +12V to COMMON and GND to ZOOM and let everything else
float. In other words, +12V is one end of a 12 volt supply, GND is
the other end and 0V means that neither end of the power supply is
connected (those wires float, with nothing connected to them). Is
that correct?


From your earlier description of the controller, it seems to be no
more than a box with five switches on it and some means of bringing
out those switch closures, but you don't mention how the switches are
wired. One way would be like this:


+-------------+
| |
| ZOOM |O-------> ZOOM IN NO
| IN |O-------> ZOOM IN COMMOM
| |
| ZOOM |O-------> ZOOM OUT NO
| OUT |O-------> ZOOM OUT COMMON
| |
| FOCUS |O-------> FOCUS NEAR NO
| NEAR |O-------> FOCUS NEAR COMMON
| |
| FOCUS |O-------> FOCUS FAR NO
| FAR |O-------> FOCUS FAR COMMOM
| |
| MENU |O-------> MENU NO
| |O-------> MENU COMMON
| |
+-------------+

Another, like this:


+--------------+
| |
| ZOOM |O-------> ZOOM IN
| IN |O--+ |
| | |
| ZOOM |O--|-----> ZOOM OUT
| OUT |O--+ |
| | |
| FOCUS |O--|-----> FOCUS NEAR
| NEAR |O--+ |
| | |
| FOCUS |O--|-----> FOCUS FAR
| FAR |O--+ |
| | |
| MENU |O--|-----> MENU
| |O--+-----> COMMON
| |
+--------------+

Or, perhaps, some other way. Without knowing it will be impossible to
work up an interface for you.


--
John Fields

 

[Rikard Bosnjakovic]

rollajarhead wrote:

John if you want I can email the schematics I have of the controler. I
have no idea of how I would do it in ASCI.

http://www.tech-chat.de/download.html


--
Rikard Bosnjakovic http://bos.hack.org/cv/

Anyone sending unwanted advertising e-mail to my address will be
charged $250 for network traffic and computing time. By extracting
address from this message or its header, you agree to these terms.

 

[Andrew Holme]

clintonb@fflax.net wrote:

It seems like I keep damaging the pots when I'm rewiring them in my
electric guitars or my amps. I'm assuming the heat from my soldering
iron is wrecking them. But I'm surprised they would be so sensitive
to heat. The hottest iron I use is 40 Watts.

Wrecking them how? How long are you applying heat for? It shouldn't take
more than 2 or 3 seconds per joint.

 

[John]

"Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:8d6e411i1kaavb8dncif09otiu37g4ri94@4ax.com...

On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 02:06:35 GMT, "Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net
wrote:


"Andreas Rutz" <enemy_soldier@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d253mp$cu$1@news.hispeed.ch...
Michael Black wrote:

I don't know, but surplus stores used to advertise surplus phone
ringers (ie from military field phones) as useful for bringing worms
to the surface. These were hand-cranked generators, which I don't
know the output of, but if someone else does it might answer the
question.

Michael


It's around 100V AC , 20Hz for these old-stlye field telephones. Maybe
ist
is a possibility to use current limited mains voltage. Use an isolation
transformer under any circumstances and be very careful what you are
doing!
Or get such a military phone...


I wonder if the fire ant would leave if the soil were energized?


I wonder if they would just catch on fire. But as to the question of
bringing worms to the surface: How could you be so mean? Well, if you
are that cruel, wanting to shock defenseless worms until they do your
bidding and all, you'll need about 90 volts minimum. It seems AC works
best. I dunno why, but that's what worked when I was a kid. And after
you get all those worms to surface mebbe you should consider a career
in the military working at Gitmo.
ERS

WOW! You ever go fishing? These womanized "men" these days get on my fucking
nerves.

 

[Glenn Ashmore]

When I was your age I grew red wigglers and Lousiana pinks to sell in bait
shops. (A truly gross out way for a teenager to earn pocket money) I had
12 beds about 4'x16' full of cow manure and yard clippings. When I needed
to harvest a bed I would sprinkle it with water and use an old crank type
telephone generator. I would work down the bed with a couple of pieces of
copper rod and the worms would come to the surface where I could scoop them
up. Worked a lot better than a shovel or garden fork because it didn't
damage the worms. Unfortunately I have no idea how much voltage it was but
it could give a pretty good shock.

Eventually I upgraded to a Model T spark coil from JC Whitney. The worms
would just about jump into the bucket.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

<sbben@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1111873896.811926.222670@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Hi, I'm working on a biology project at my high school. I'm raising
worms in a small tank of dirt (about 1.5 feet long 1 foot tall 1 foot
wide). I heard worms could be drawn up through the soil by passing an
electric current through it. Here's my problem, I tried using my
teachers power supply connected to two iron nails in the damp soil. The
power supply plugs into the wall and provides from 0-20 volts either AC
or DC to the probes. I don't know an exceptional amount about
electricity but I used a voltage meter to measure the voltage passing
through the soil. I measured 10 volts through the soil when the supply
was set to its highest (20 volts). Is this sufficient information to
calculate current?

I was only able to draw up one worm with this weak amount of energy. I
understand it is current and not voltage that will be the determining
factor here. I would like to design a power supply of my own. I have a
transformer that is labeled with input 120 volt and output 24 volt. If
I use this what will the current be? Is it safe relatively safe? I
would like to give the worms a good shock without using something
capable of killing a human. What is the power range I'm looking for
and what do I need to get it there (just a transformer or more)?
Should I rectify the output?

All responses greatly appreciated, thank you.

 

[John Fields]

On 28 Mar 2005 13:29:53 -0800, "rollajarhead"
<rolla_jarhead@yahoo.com> wrote:

OK. If that's the matrix for the camera, the columns should be
labelled "INPUT CONDITIONS" since that's what you have to put _into_
the camera in order to make it do what you want it to. What I've got
so far, then, is that you have a camera with four control inputs
which
look tike this:


+--------+
ZOOM>-------| |
| |
FOCUS>------| |
| |
MENU>-------| |
| |
COMMON>-----| |
+--------+


Correct


Also, from the table, it looks like if you want it to zoom in you
connect +12V to ZOOM and GND to COMMON, but if you want it to zoom
out
you connect +12V to COMMON and GND to ZOOM and let everything else
float. In other words, +12V is one end of a 12 volt supply, GND is
the other end and 0V means that neither end of the power supply is
connected (those wires float, with nothing connected to them). Is
that correct?


Correct again.


+--------------+
| |
| ZOOM |O-------> ZOOM IN
| IN |O--+ |
| | |
| ZOOM |O--|-----> ZOOM OUT
| OUT |O--+ |
| | |
| FOCUS |O--|-----> FOCUS NEAR
| NEAR |O--+ |
| | |
| FOCUS |O--|-----> FOCUS FAR
| FAR |O--+ |
| | |
| MENU |O--|-----> MENU
| |O--+-----> COMMON
| |
+--------------+


This looks like the schmatic I have of the controler.

John if you want I can email the schematics I have of the controler. I
have no idea of how I would do it in ASCI.

---
If you're going to make some money from this project and you need help
to complete it and you want me to help you, I'll be more than happy to
email you schematics, bills of material, etc, (for a fee, of course)
but if you're looking for free help and you want to keep the
discussion in this group, (seb) it would certainly be a good idea for
you to post the schematic you mentioned, in its entirety, to abse.
That way we can all have a look at what it is you think you want to do
and comment on it.

--
John Fields

 

[Anthony Fremont]

"Andrew Holme" <andrew@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:d2a25r$pci$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk...

clintonb@fflax.net wrote:
It seems like I keep damaging the pots when I'm rewiring them in my
electric guitars or my amps. I'm assuming the heat from my
soldering
iron is wrecking them. But I'm surprised they would be so sensitive
to heat. The hottest iron I use is 40 Watts.

Wrecking them how? How long are you applying heat for? It shouldn't
take
more than 2 or 3 seconds per joint.

He's probably talking about soldering ground leads to the metal can of
the pot for shielding. Using a 40W iron, it takes a long time to get
the metal hot enough to solder to. He needs a trigger type gun in the
140W range. This will get the metal hot enough in short enough time to
prevent damaging the pot. Of course the lugs only need the smaller
iron.

 

[Peter Bennett]

On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 11:28:50 GMT, <elehman1@columbus.rr.com> wrote:

Should the used pins be left unconnected or should they be taken to ground?

Generally, unused output pins should be left unconnected.

What you do with unused input pins will depend on the chip - for CMOS
logic parts, all input pins must be connected to something, and unused
input pins must be connected in a way that will allow the chip to work
as required. For example, and active low "reset" pin must be
connected to the positive supply, otherwise the chip will be
permanently held in its reset state.


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca