Chip with simple program for Toy

"fengjianqing" <fjq@qingdaonews.com> wrote:

You can send your file to me. We can help you to do these boards. Only
0.02 US$ per cm*cm for FR4 single side. But the price does not include
the transfer fee to you. You can send to fjq at qingdaonews.com
I am interested in the communication possibilities between China and
Europe, and maybe you can tell me something about that.

I understand that you send most of your products via airplane or
oceangoing ships, but is there a possibility to send products by truck,
through central Asia?

That should be a more economical way to send products from China to
Europe than by airplane, and faster than by ships, going around the whole
eurasian continent.

Do you know how the roads are in China, from China to Kazakstan
and from there to Europe?

Is that possibility used by chinese producers, or are there problems
which make that alternative less attractive?


--
Roger J.
 
Hello Roger,
Very gald to see your answer. Yes, you are right. We send most of our
products via airplane or oceangoing ships. You know if we use your
suggestions to transfer the products using truck s. No truck go directly
from one country to another one. I can not promise to you if the products
can send to your hands. Maybe will lose very easy. We all do not want to
see such thing happen. Do you agreee?
So I think the best way is by ship the first, the second by air.
For further discuss, you can send mail to me. Send to fjq at qingdaonews
dot com.

Best regards,
Feng
 
"fengjianqing" <fjq@qingdaonews.com> wrote:

Hello Roger,
Very gald to see your answer. Yes, you are right. We send most of our
products via airplane or oceangoing ships. You know if we use your
suggestions to transfer the products using truck s. No truck go
directly from one country to another one. I can not promise to you if
the products can send to your hands. Maybe will lose very easy. We all
do not want to see such thing happen. Do you agreee?
Yes, I think I understand. But sometime in the future we will see better
and safer transport infrastructures through central Asia.
An infrastructure which promotes peace and equality between all people on
the eurasian continent.

So I think the best way is by ship the first, the second by air.
Yes, for urgent orders airplane is the best, and for big volumes ship is
best, even if it takes a week or two to Europe.

For further discuss, you can send mail to me. Send to fjq at
qingdaonews dot com.
Not necessary, but thanks anyway.



--
Roger J.
 
JeffM wrote:
Try www.futurlec.com.
Robert Monsen


Morons who make their sites 100% Flash don't deserve anybody's
business.
Why not? Great prices, hard to find parts, orders arrive on time and
intact, no whining about small orders...

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
On 15 Mar 2005 07:55:45 -0800, etantonio@gmail.com (Etantonio) wrote:

Good morning,
a friend of mine have inserted this post on a Forum I created on my site
www.etantonio.it/en , this is the question :

"Someone knows something about LTA/WTA circuits?
I mean the best approach to the problem,
the best topology and all that can be usefull
to design an accurate and high-speed LTA?"

I don't know the answer, if you know it please post it just following this link:

http://www.etantonio.it/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15
---
Since you seem to think that we have the answers, why don't you steer
your friend here instead of steering us to your bullshit site?

The mountain and Mohammed, you know?

--
John Fields
 
futurlec.com.
Robert Monsen

Morons who make their sites 100% Flash
don't deserve anybody's business.
JeffM

Why not?
Robert Monsen
This reminds me of the American arrogance of the '80s
when we were losing business to Japan
because we couldn't seem to learn the lesson
"You can BUY in ANY language;
to SELL you must speak the language of your customer."

HTML is the lingua franca of the Web. Flash is a gimmick.
A site that is 100% Flash is moronic.
Having dealings with morons is moronic.
 
JeffM wrote:
futurlec.com.
Robert Monsen

Morons who make their sites 100% Flash
don't deserve anybody's business.
JeffM

Why not?
Robert Monsen


This reminds me of the American arrogance of the '80s
when we were losing business to Japan
because we couldn't seem to learn the lesson
"You can BUY in ANY language;
to SELL you must speak the language of your customer."
They probably just like flash, and since 98% of the world's computers
run it, nobody notices the difference. 2% may not be able to handle it.
Perhaps they don't know this. Perhaps they just don't care. Perhaps the
contract firm they hired to write the website doesn't care, or doesn't
know. Perhaps you are making a big deal out of nothing.

HTML is the lingua franca of the Web. Flash is a gimmick.
A site that is 100% Flash is moronic.
Having dealings with morons is moronic.
Well, it's possible they are idiot savants. The savant part appears to
be in being able to offer reasonable prices, deliver on time, and not
nick you for a small order surcharge.

Since I appear to be coming off like an ad, let me stress that I'm not
associated with them in any way, other than being a bit impressed with
their prices on SOME things. You need to check, since they appear to use
an odd 'price by demand' scheme, which can cause chips that are nearly
identical (and priced nearly identically at, say, digikey) to be priced
very differently.

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote:

This reminds me of the American arrogance of the '80s
when we were losing business to Japan
because we couldn't seem to learn the lesson
"You can BUY in ANY language;
to SELL you must speak the language of your customer."

HTML is the lingua franca of the Web. Flash is a gimmick.
A site that is 100% Flash is moronic.
Having dealings with morons is moronic.
I don't like flash web sites either, but at least I can express myself in
a civilized language.

If I see something I don't like I try to formulate my views as
explanations and positive suggestions, instead of negative criticism.

The reason why people don't like the flash file format is that it is like
a program which is downloaded and run on the client machine, and those
programs are not controllable by the client like html web sites.

Html is a way to suggest how the information is to be presented, but it
allows the client to adjust things like fonts, font sizes, background
colors, layout, to fit his special needs and taste.

Unfortunately we will probably have to wait for 10-20 years before
newsgroups can be recommended for children and civilized people.
The level of foul language background noise is still very high.


--
Roger J.
 
Robert Monsen wrote:
JeffM wrote:
Try www.futurlec.com.
Robert Monsen


Morons who make their sites 100% Flash don't deserve anybody's
business.


Why not? Great prices, hard to find parts, orders arrive on time and
intact, no whining about small orders...

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

Constant updates to the Flash software, and not having permission to
install new software on a computer where you work are two that come to
mind. Its a double insult to be hit with a slow loading flash page AND
a nasty warning that your software is out of date. In these cases I
send a "No thank you note" and tell the vendor I will look elsewhere for
my parts. Not only that, but how well will a Flash page be indexed by a
search engine? Are they treated like other oddball formats and ignored?

At my last job I had to let the IT droids install all software,
including software to program parts on the production line.

--
?

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
<ron010537@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1110937548.237131.278050@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

"A pox upon you!"
-H. Simpson
 
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Robert Monsen wrote:

JeffM wrote:

Try www.futurlec.com.
Robert Monsen


Morons who make their sites 100% Flash don't deserve anybody's
business.


Why not? Great prices, hard to find parts, orders arrive on time and
intact, no whining about small orders...

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen



Constant updates to the Flash software, and not having permission to
install new software on a computer where you work are two that come to
mind.
I haven't had any flash updates recently, and the site seems to work
properly. Perhaps they don't use the wizzy new features?

Its a double insult to be hit with a slow loading flash page AND
a nasty warning that your software is out of date.
Yes, that would be annoying. Thankfully, it hasn't happened to me at
this site yet.

In these cases I
send a "No thank you note" and tell the vendor I will look elsewhere for
my parts.
Good idea. This may prompt them to use a different technology whigh
would be more useful for you.

Not only that, but how well will a Flash page be indexed by a
search engine? Are they treated like other oddball formats and ignored?
I do get hits for futurlec on google all the time, so I suspect they've
somehow overcome that problem if it exists.

At my last job I had to let the IT droids install all software,
including software to program parts on the production line.
That is overly restrictive.

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
<hboothe@gte.net> wrote in message
news:1110942121.407450.280620@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Hey, folks, I know the topic of LM317 chargers for batteries has been
beaten to death but I've got a problem that I can't solve and my
reading of the groups has yet to yield a similar problem; maybe my
searching capability stinks, but who knows.

Anyway, I have a cordless drill that I want to charge in my vehicle
(13.8 volts when running (12V system)) and I built a charger using a
LM317 that has about 7 to 10 Ohms between the Adj and the Out pins,
runs the output through an LED and finally to my driver (marked as a
2.4v device). The output current is about 75 mA, upped from the prior
value of 50 mA (after I found it wouldn't charge up with the 50 mA
output). It still wouldn't charge up (slow running, no power) so I
checked it *again* against the factory wall wart and it draws, even
after being hooked up for 24 hours, around 110 mA (which explains why
the thing lasts for about 2 days off the charger before, even without
use, the battery goes dead). So, it seems to have some internal
leak-down circuit; I say that because I bought 3 of them (they were
cheap at Home Depot) and my friend has one and all four of them go dead
after a couple of days off the charger. Anyway, I decided to try to
build another charging circuit from scratch and test it on the
workbench before I tear into my vehicle to work on the circuit in it.

What I got is this, and it's messing with my head (which isn't well
tuned for electrical stuff anyway); I built the charger according to
the "Typical Applications" section of the National Semi documentation
to be a constant current charger (having been told two years ago when I
first built the charger by someone here in the groups that these types
of devices are current sensitive not voltage sensitive). It should, I
thought, be really simple: Vin = 13.8, tie Adj to the output, tie Out,
via some resistance, to the output, and BAM, battery charger. Not
quite. I read the notes and the calculation for the Iout should be
1.25/R (1.25 nominal voltage diff between Out and Adj, and R being the
resistance between Out and the load. So, Vin =13.8vdc, Adj goes
straight to the load, and Out goes through R to the load. R=10 Ohms,
so Iout should be 1.25 / 10 = 0.125 or 125 mA, and since the driver
eats (sinks) about 110 mA when fully charged the 125 mA should be
enough to charge the device (slowly) and then provide enough juice to
keep it up.

The only difference between this installation and the one in my vehicle
currently is that I didn't run the final output through a LED before
the load.

Finally, the problem; I measured the current through the device with
two different meters and I get about 460 mA...? I double checked my
pin locations on the TO-220 package, double checked my wiring (it's one
IC, one 10 ohm resistor, 3 pieces of wire or so...it can't be too
difficult to get it right...can it?), cleaned the breadboard of other
projects to make sure I'm not seeing another circuit involved, and yet
it's still drawing the same amount of current. I'm afraid to leave it
running for more than a few seconds because I think it might blow that
battery up. I'm going to try a constant voltage setup to see if that
might not fix it.

But, in case that doesn't work, and even if it does, just so I'll know,
is there something blatantly stupid I'm doing here? I even tried
another LM317 and got the same results (with the way I do electronics I
never buy just one of anything <GRIN>).

Hope someone can shed some light on this for me. Thank you for your
time and help.

--HC
You need a constant current at more than 12 volts to charge the battery.
The
LM317 will lose a couple of volts across itself and that alone puts you
below
what is needed.

You need to boost the voltage first and then regulate the current. There
are
many IC's that can boost the applied voltage but their output current will
be limited.
I doubt you'll achieve a rapid charge though you will probably be able to
trickle charge.
That could take about 10 hours which I'm sure is unacceptable.

How about going the easy way and get an inverter...this will create 120 VAC
and you
can use your home charger to do the job. This is not efficient so watch the
drain on
your vehicle battery.
 
Um, Hello, my name is HC and I'm an Idiot. <sigh>

If you hook up the LM317 just like the technotes document from National
says to, running Vin to 13.8 volts, and Out to the load, but you
MISPLACE the wire on the breadboard to the Adj pin, so that the
connection that is supposed to exist between the Adj pin and the load
does NOT exist, it runs basically straight 13.8 volts (Vin voltage) to
the load. :-/ I went to start on my constant voltage regulator and
was pulling wires off the breadboard and saw that I had missed placing
the Adj wire connection in the right row, it was one row off...and I
had not seen it. I hooked it up right and it's putting out 120 mA like
it should. Now the question is whether or not that'll burn that
battery out because 120 mA is more than it draws at idle...but at least
I'm now in the right range.

Sorry folks, sometimes I just screw stuff up. :)

--HC
 
Now that I've (hopefully) eradicated sheer stupidity from my project I
have it charging the driver but the problem is that it's putting 120 mA
across the driver even though the driver is fully charged (the same
driver on the factory wall wart only draws 110 mA). I'm afraid that
difference may mean that I'm going to boil/burn/ruin the battery.
Plus, I have had to put a heatsink on the LM317 because it's puttin'
off some heat (enough that it's painful to touch it). Can anyone shed
some light on what I'm doing? Am I doing (yet again) something stupid?

The constant voltage regulator tried to push 260 mA over the same
driver and got hotter than all git out, too. :-/

Thanks, all.

--HC
 
Rich The Philosophizer <rtp@example.net> wrote:

Just look at the facts - the Bible tells you that you get eternal life
by dying. That's insane. Life and death are opposites. Death cancels
out life.

The way to get eternal life is to _not_ die. :)
An old lady told a friend how she treated her dogs.

"I want to be really nice to my dogs, so I lock them up in a closet for a
year, and then I let them out again. It warms my heart to see them get so
extremely happy. They often remember that strong feeling of happiness for
many years. I only have to show them the open closet door to remind them
and they become very happy again."


--
Roger J.
 
<hboothe@gte.net> wrote in message
news:1110945856.469081.38370@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Hey, Garth, thanks for the reply. Since the cordless driver is
rated/marked at 2.4 volts I would think that the vehicle's power (12v
battery) would be more than enough to handle charging the thing. The
only reason I want the driver is to remove my front license plate which
obscures access to my front-mount receiver on my truck (where I hook up
things like tow hooks and trailer balls), so 1) it won't get used very
often and 2) even when it does, it can take an overnight to charge up,
no problem. The problem is that my current charge setup is only
putting out about 75 mA so it actually will take a fully charged driver
and, over about a week, discharge it to where it barely runs (as
opposed to if I just disconnected the driver from any charge source in
which case it would go dead in about 2 days). :(

Using an inverter is not a solution I'm willing to entertain because 1)
space (where to mount it?), 2) cost, I don't want to spend any money to
buy an inverter that will only be used to charge a 10 dollar driver,
and 3) it's not an elegant solution like the homemade charger would be.
:-/

I'm kind of obsessive about things. :) It's hell being me. Thanks
again for your help.

--HC
For some reason I got the idea that this was a 12V driver. Sorry!

Is this driver using sealed in rechargeable C cells? Perhaps they are
sub C cells. In any case, you still need a greater voltage than the cells
in order to charge them. Based on the voltage, these are NiCad
batteries. The voltage needed is related to temperature but something
close to 1.4 volts per cell at about 68 degrees F. Your two cell screw
driver is going to need 2.8 volts to do the job. the required current
should be one tenth the cell capacity for no more than 16 hours at a
time. More than this will cause the cells to heat and reduce their
capacity.
The lesson is to charge it and then don't charge again until it is empty.

A high capacity sub C cell might be rated at 2Ahr but this is a guess.
1.6AHr might be more typical. One tenth of this 160mA to 200mA.
The easiest thing I can think of is to get a mobile cell phone charger
and modify it. I got my Nokia mobile charger with a new phone body
for $5 at the T-Mobile store...can't go wrong at that price!

The NiMH battery in the phone is a higher voltage than you need but
a few series diodes will reduce that to a suitable value or better, use
a low dropout regulator to precisly set 2.8 volts. Measure the current with
your discharged screwdriver connected to the modified phone charger.
If it falls within the range above, happy days! if it is too high, control
it
with a resistor ( but watch for the voltage drop ) or shorten the recharge
time.
Just remember that a hot battery isn't a happy battery.


>
 
Hey, Garth, thanks for the info, again. I got the thing charging now
with the output at 122 mA, and I'm running it all through a green LED
in parallel with a 22 ohm resistor (to keep the LED from burning too
hot) and it seems to be charging the driver fairly rapidly. The time
limit you mention makes sense (since the current draw is 122 mA (give
or take 1 mA) whether it's the drained driver or the charged driver
that I'm currently testing), but I want to avoid that since I intend to
leave it in my vehicle and I want to be able to use it at a moment's
notice. With the darned thing discharging itself after a day or two it
would be useless to have to leave it unplugged after X number of hours
and then plug it back in for Y number of hours; 1) I have three
vehicles (not braggin', and they're not all new) and I use whichever
suits my needs or tastes on any particular day; the one in question
here is my truck and I try not to use it for short trips (4 miles) to
town to check the mail; so it may be days between when I drive it, and
2) even if I only used/had one vehicle I don't want to have to think,
"gee, did I plug in the charger to the driver? Crap, I did, and that
was yesterday....<run run run> <unplug>". :-/

Maybe this stuff about the drivers draining themselves in a day or two
is Ryobi's cheap way of circumventing complicated (I think the stuff
would be) circuitry to check if the battery is full...just use a load
resistor across the battery so it always eats current, that way you
could never over charge it. Maybe? I'm just not very well versed or
knowledgeable about electronics. :-/

I'm testing the rig now with the LED parallelled with the 22 Ohm
resistor, it's across my meter putting out 122 mA, and it's charging
the deader of the two drivers (the one I've had in my truck on that
system for over a year). I had to put a heatsink on the LM317 (I had
several I robbed off an old VCR that I was trashing) and we'll see how
that's doing shortly.

Thank you again, I appreciate your help and thoughts.

--HC
 
If you know the answer you can also answer here, but you know the answer???

Bye
 
Try www.futurlec.com.
Robert Monsen

Morons who make their sites 100% Flash
don't deserve anybody's business.
JeffM

...Constant updates to the Flash software,
...not having permission to install new software
...slow loading flash page

how well will a Flash page be indexed by a search engine?
Michael A. Terrell

It won't be--at all.


Are they treated like other oddball formats and ignored?

Yup. You've touched on another thing about Flash sites:
you can't cut & paste text from them.
Some Web developers use Flash specifically
so the underlying nature of their sites can't be easily examined.
You have to ask what's up with someone that would hire a Web developer
who puts his own priorities (code obfuscation) first.


:I do get hits for futurlec on google all the time,
:so I suspect they've somehow overcome that problem if it exists.
: Robert Monsen
:
I Googled the site and it looked like a normal HTML site
http://www.google.com/search?&q=site:futurlec.com+printed-circuit
so I went to the site again.
Guess what--it's not a Flash site any more.

So, do those guys read this group?
Were they coincidently trying something foolish
at the exact moment they were getting free advertisement here?
 

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