Chip with simple program for Toy

[Lord Garth]

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.05.13.18.09.09.981747@example.net...

On Wed, 04 May 2005 17:04:04 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:

I have knelt down in the lab, stabbing 13 pins of a 16 pin dip into my
knee. Talk about ouch!!! I had to use my pliers to remove the damn
thing.

I was at my bench trying to superglue a Molex connector to a piece of
perfboard, trying to apply pressure, and of course, it slipped and landed
on the floor just as my engineer was walking by. He reflexively bent over,
picked up the connector, and when he went to toss it on my bench, found
it superglued to his finger.

Cheers!
Rich

Ha! My former manager spoke of spilling xylene on the lab floor near the
sink and as he was occupied at the sink, he did not think that his shoes
were
being glued to the floor. When he moved, the shoes stayed.

 

[Lord Garth]

"R. Steve Walz" <rstevew@armory.com> wrote in message
news:42855878.3FC1@armory.com...

Lord Garth wrote:

"R. Steve Walz" <rstevew@armory.com> wrote in message
news:4282D1FB.4C76@armory.com...
alismans wrote:

I am trying to use the programmer from

http://members.aon.at/electronics/pic/picpgm/index.html

I have built the circuit
picpgm_cable according to the diagram. I have used a
74LS04 instead of 74ALS05
-----------------------
They are totally different parts, it won't work without the '05.
The '05 is open-collector, totally different.


because this is what was
available. I then run the software WinPicPgm and on
the status line at the bottom there is a message
"No pic programmer found".
Can you help me?
thanks!!



Wow! That one is way old Steve....are you just getting it?
--------------------
Nope, just finding the time to catch up is all, been too busy.

I'm up to my butt in alligators right now too...I will be traveling 200
miles
to the job site Monday at 4:30 A.M. Lets hope the phone guy is on time as
they don't like me climbing their poles!

 

[Lord Garth]

"R. Steve Walz" <rstevew@armory.com> wrote in message
news:428558C7.1C79@armory.com...

Lord Garth wrote:

"R. Steve Walz" <rstevew@armory.com> wrote in message
news:4282D1FB.4C76@armory.com...
alismans wrote:

I am trying to use the programmer from

http://members.aon.at/electronics/pic/picpgm/index.html

I have built the circuit
picpgm_cable according to the diagram. I have used a
74LS04 instead of 74ALS05
-----------------------
They are totally different parts, it won't work without the '05.
The '05 is open-collector, totally different.


because this is what was
available. I then run the software WinPicPgm and on
the status line at the bottom there is a message
"No pic programmer found".
Can you help me?
thanks!!



Wow! That one is way old Steve....are you just getting it?
---------------
I note ALSO that nobody gave the right answer, are you guys slipping?

The guy never got back to me about the use of a PCB or anything else.
I would have suggested some other O.C. component but I really haven't
given it any thought.

 

[Don Kelly]

"jason" <cheanglong@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115921324.676108.41100@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Hi Tom and Matt

Thanks a lot. I am looking around books such as The art of electronics
and also some microelectronics book. I understand some of the
explanation given in book but there are times I cannot understand which
node I should short , or open circuit in order to get the correct
voltage node or resistance?
I am still reading and try to understand.
I post here to see if anyone know the concept well and can share the
way how they catch the concept.
Thank you all

rgds and thanks
Jason

--------------

I think that you are trying to mix up two concepts- the modelling of a
transistor circuit and the concept of a Thevenin or Norton model. The
latter pair can be applied to a transistor device only in the small signal
case where the circuit can be modelled as a linear one. Thevenin (and
Norton), as with most circuit theorems, depend on "superposition" which is a
mathematical concept associated with linearity {e.g (I1+I2)R =I1R +I2R}
It can be shown that a source, however complex, can, if and only if, it is
linear, can be represented by the open circuit voltage in series with the
impedance seen looking back into the source when the voltage is set to 0.
The Norton model is the short circuit current source in parallel with the
impedance. In effect the Thevenin impedance becomes the open circuit voltage
divided by the short circuit impedance, or; in the case of a transistor
circuit -the slope of the I vs E curve at and near the operating point.
Norton and Thevenin have been around much longer than transistors and are
applicable in a much wider area of electrical devices and systems than
electronic circuits.
--
Don Kelly
dhky@peeshaw.ca
remove the urine to answer

 

[Rikard Bosnjakovic]

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

The best protection is to practice safe internetting, and use a firewall.
Hardware appliances provide more robust protection than software-only
firewalls. And don't forget that even the best firewalls are targets of
hacking.

Yup. Safe 'netting using your brains and precautions is the way to go. And
use applications that ain't the targets for those zillions of attacks.

I've been on the net since 1996 and haven't been infected with a virus,
ever. The only thing that strucked me was the "teardrop"-attack way back
in 1997. Other than that, clean as a baby.


--
Rikard Bosnjakovic http://bos.hack.org/cv/

Anyone sending unwanted advertising e-mail to my address will be
charged $250 for network traffic and computing time. By extracting
address from this message or its header, you agree to these terms.

 

[Dr Engelbert Buxbaum]

Jamie wrote:

color codes normally are Black for HOT, white for Neutral and Green
for earth Ground.

What place are you in? Here in Europe, there used to be black - live,
grey - neutral and red - PE many, many years ago, but now its brown,
blue and yellow/green. IIRC the change was made so that colour blind
people (regardles of the type of colour blindness) couls safely do the
connecting (dark-live, bright-neutral, bicolour-PE).

the neutral and earth ground are to be connected in
the breaker box on the ground bus bar, then an earth ground electrode
and possibly a water pipe that is near by that has been conductive
tested connected to the ground bus bar using no smaller than 10 #awg bar
copper
wire.

Yes, but that's all "behind" the fuse box. The idea is that all metal
items (water pipes, heating...) is at ground level and can't "bite"
anybody touching them.

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

On Wed, 11 May 2005 23:25:46 -0500, "Ratch" <Watchit@comcast.net>
wrote:

From Digital Design by M. Morris Mano

"A combinational circuit consists of logic gates whose outputs at any
time are determined directly from the present combination of inputs without
regard to previous inputs. A combinational circuit performs a specific
information processing operation fully specified logically by a set of
Boolean functions. Sequential circuits employ memory elements in addition
to logic gates. Their outputs are a function of the inputs and the state of
the memory elements. The state of the memory elements, in turn, is a
function of previous inputs. As a consequence, the outputs of a sequential
circuit depend not only on present inputs, but also on past inputs, and the
circuit behavior must be specified by a time sequence of inputs and internal
states."

When I saw the OP's glee at getting an answer for a test from here
(without trying to really understand it) I decided against saying
anything more just then. It appears the test may be over now, so:

To put it simply without distorting too much, combinatorial logic
doesn't have state and sequential logic does.

Jon

 

[Rich The Newsgroup Wacko]

On Sat, 14 May 2005 11:04:50 +0000, Rikard Bosnjakovic wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

The best protection is to practice safe internetting, and use a firewall.
Hardware appliances provide more robust protection than software-only
firewalls. And don't forget that even the best firewalls are targets of
hacking.

Yup. Safe 'netting using your brains and precautions is the way to go. And
use applications that ain't the targets for those zillions of attacks.

I've been on the net since 1996 and haven't been infected with a virus,
ever. The only thing that strucked me was the "teardrop"-attack way back
in 1997. Other than that, clean as a baby.

You've obviously never changed a diaper. (Ewwww!)
--
Cheers!
Rich
------
"But they'll never mechanize me -- not me! Said Charlotte, the Louisville
harlot."
-- S.I. Hayakawa"

 

[burbeck]

On 14 May 2005 07:05:43 -0700, downlode@gmail.com wrote:

Hi,
I'm trying to find an audio transformer like this one for sale in the
UK (or Europe):
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=273-1380

I've looked through just about all the online suppliers I can find
without any luck.
Can anyone suggest a dealer? If not, would a different component serve
my purposes? I'm building this project:

http://www.i-hacked.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=162&Itemid=44

Thanks for help.
Mike

hi mike
try type LT700 cheap
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3709&doy=14m5
regards bob

 

[Andrew Holme]

beatbox wrote:

Hi all,
Will the designs mentioned here work OK with old UK GPO dial phones?

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/telephone5.htm
http://www.epanorama.net/documents/telecom/telephone_intercom.html

Yes.

 

[R. Steve Walz]

Byron A Jeff wrote:

In article <428558C7.1C79@armory.com>,
R. Steve Walz <rstevew@armory.com> wrote:
Lord Garth wrote:

"R. Steve Walz" <rstevew@armory.com> wrote in message
news:4282D1FB.4C76@armory.com...

Mucho snippage...

I am trying to use the programmer from
http://members.aon.at/electronics/pic/picpgm/index.html

I have used a 74LS04 instead of 74ALS05
-----------------------
They are totally different parts, it won't work without the '05.
The '05 is open-collector, totally different.
I note ALSO that nobody gave the right answer, are you guys slipping?

Steve,

I took Mike's answer as the correct one. To quote

"My apple pie recipe calls for apples. But I used tomatoes because
that was what was available. How come my apple pie doesn't taste right???

The first step in making any circuit work is to use the correct part.
If you can't us the correct part, at least use a COMATIBLE (sic) one.
The '04 is trashing your return data path."

That's why I didn't bother to answer.

BAJ
-----------------------

But only a grade of B for that.

"But Byron, what's wrong, they're both inverters??!!"

-Steve
--
-Steve Walz rstevew@armory.com ftp://ftp.armory.com/pub/user/rstevew
Electronics Site!! 1000's of Files and Dirs!! With Schematics Galore!!
http://www.armory.com/~rstevew or http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public

 

[Andrew Holme]

el_squid_2000@yahoo.com wrote:

Hi - I am trying to get a handle on some switching speed concepts -
I beleive it is correct that the faster a signal switches the closer
to a square wave it becomes and therefore the more harmonics it
contains ?? So just how fast must it switch to contain 'all
harmonics' ?

Thanks in advance,
El Squid

The short answer is: instantly.

The long answer is: all signals are bandwidth-limited. No signal contains
an infinite number of harmonics, and no signal has zero rise-time.

Also, it isn't just the number of harmonics which determine waveform shape,
but also their relative amplitudes.

 

[R. Steve Walz]

el_squid_2000@yahoo.com wrote:

Hi - I am trying to get a handle on some switching speed concepts -
I beleive it is correct that the faster a signal switches the closer to
a square wave it becomes and therefore the more harmonics it contains
?? So just how fast must it switch to contain 'all harmonics' ?

Thanks in advance,
El Squid
-------------------

Good headwork. You're right! Why, infinitely, of course.

-Steve
--
-Steve Walz rstevew@armory.com ftp://ftp.armory.com/pub/user/rstevew
Electronics Site!! 1000's of Files and Dirs!! With Schematics Galore!!
http://www.armory.com/~rstevew or http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public

 

[Tom Biasi]

<upgrdman@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:1116148378.343595.316750@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I'm working on making a very bright set of "headlights" for my
remote-controlled car. I decided to go with white LED's because my RC
car is power'd by a nitro engine that produces some good vibration
which would probably make incandesent lights not last very long.

I bought 20 white LED's which are spec'd for a forward voltage of 3.0V
min, and 3.8V max. I read that I should wire them in series, and not
wire them in parallel, but I'm planning to power them with 3 NiMH AA's
(3x1.2v = 3.8V). Since that would be the same as the max forward
current, can I get away with parallel wiring, and not using resistors?

I am new to electronics, and from what I have read online, it seems
that resistors are used when your power source produces more voltage
than your electronics can handle. So if I am correct, 3 NiMH AA cells
should produce a tolerable voltage at all times (perhaps too little
when they get drained). So am I correct in assuming that I can wire all
the LED's in parallel, without resistors, to the 3 NiMH AA's?

For more information about the LED's I bought, the eBay page for them
has tables of info on them:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=66952&item=7514693502&rd=1

Lastly, I'm curious about how long my 3 NiMH AA's will provide good
power to the LED's. It looks like my LED's will be drawing 20mA each,
and I plan to use all 20 LED's, so that will be 400mA total. My NiHM
AA's are 2400mAh, so my first assumption is that they would last about
6 hours. But then I realized that would be about 6 hours to fully drain
my batteries. So this leads me to the question of when my batteries
will start to get to the minimum forward volage for my LED's: 3.0V. I
have no idea how to calculate that... any tips?

Thank you,
--Farrell F.
Hi,

Your LEDs are speced 3.0 to 3.8 Fwd. Wiring them in parallel means they
would all have to drop the same voltage. There is no guarantee that this
will be the case, in fact they most likely wouldn't be.
So, no, do not wire them in parallel, and for the same reason as stated you
would still be better off with a resistor otherwise you are relying solely
on internal resistances.
Since you do not have a lot of 'extra' voltage a small value (39 ohms)
could be used on each LED then you could wire the combo's in parallel.

To know more accurately than you have calculated the expected useful time of
the lighting system, you would need to know two things.
1. The current at which the LEDs produce a light that is not acceptable to
you.
2. The discharge curve of your power cells at the current that you are
using.
BTW: You seem to imply that you believe that the 3.0 to 3.8 volts are
operating ranges. This is not the case. This is the range of the expected
voltage drop across the LED when it is fully conducting.
Good Luck,
Tom

>

 

[Matt Flyer]

el_squid_2000@yahoo.com wrote:

Hi - I am trying to get a handle on some switching speed concepts -
I beleive it is correct that the faster a signal switches the closer to
a square wave it becomes and therefore the more harmonics it contains
?? So just how fast must it switch to contain 'all harmonics' ?

Thanks in advance,
El Squid

You are correct. One of the implications of this is that faster the

signal transitions (i.e. shorter rise or fall time) the higher the
significant energy content of the higher harmonics that your circuit
must handle. As a rule of thumb, beyond a certain point, which alot of
times can be aproximated as .5/Trise, you no longer need to worry about
the harmonics. A second implication of this conecpt is that it is not
posisble to generate an ideal square wave with physically realizable
components.

 

[Lord Garth]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote
in message news:118es7m1hk1jd1e@corp.supernews.com...

Same here in the Atari 2600 and Super Mario Bros years back in the '70s,
when a neighbor bought one for his kids. I must've repaired the
joystick at least a half dozen times.

I caught the niece and nephew wetting the game cartridge contacts with
their saliva to make the game play. (yuck!) One look inside the console
revealed the resultant corrosion. MCM sold replacement connectors at
that time. You should have seen my nephews face when I had his console
stripped! I also noted the joystick connectors had cold joints on most of
the pins.

 

[Mike]

On Sat, 14 May 2005 16:27:02 GMT, burbeck <burbeck@hotmail.com> wrote:

On 14 May 2005 07:05:43 -0700, downlode@gmail.com wrote:

Hi,
I'm trying to find an audio transformer like this one for sale in the
UK (or Europe):
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=273-1380

I've looked through just about all the online suppliers I can find
without any luck.
Can anyone suggest a dealer? If not, would a different component serve
my purposes? I'm building this project:

http://www.i-hacked.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=162&Itemid=44

Thanks for help.
Mike


hi mike
try type LT700 cheap
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3709&doy=14m5
regards bob

Thanks Bob,
I'll give it a try.
Mike

 

[Don Klipstein]

In article <1116148378.343595.316750@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
upgrdman@mindspring.com wrote:

I'm working on making a very bright set of "headlights" for my
remote-controlled car. I decided to go with white LED's because my RC
car is power'd by a nitro engine that produces some good vibration
which would probably make incandesent lights not last very long.

I bought 20 white LED's which are spec'd for a forward voltage of 3.0V
min, and 3.8V max. I read that I should wire them in series, and not
wire them in parallel, but I'm planning to power them with 3 NiMH AA's
(3x1.2v = 3.8V). Since that would be the same as the max forward
current, can I get away with parallel wiring, and not using resistors?

I am new to electronics, and from what I have read online, it seems
that resistors are used when your power source produces more voltage
than your electronics can handle. So if I am correct, 3 NiMH AA cells
should produce a tolerable voltage at all times (perhaps too little
when they get drained). So am I correct in assuming that I can wire all
the LED's in parallel, without resistors, to the 3 NiMH AA's?

You may get away with it, but fair chance you cook the LEDs. For one
thing, LEDs get more conductive as they get hotter, and you may get
"thermal runaway".

I would put a resistor in series with each LED and put the LED-resistor
combos in parallel with each other. As for resistor value - I would guess
22 ohms. You can try different ones - measure the voltage across the
resistor and divide that by resistance to determine the LED current. That
will probably indicate current better than a milliammeter, which on a
suitable current range will probably add enough resistance to change the
current significantly.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Bob Monsen]

donghun wrote:

Hi...I need some advice about voltage amplifier.
I want to amplify input signal to 100Vpp.
The input signal is 5 Vpp sine or cosine signal and bandwidth is under
the 20Mhz. Simple scheme is in the below.

+5V(DC) +100V or Over
| |
------- --------- ----------------------
|source |-----|Amplifier|--------|Load(about 10Mohm~Over|
------- --------- ----------------------
| |
-5V(DC) -100V or Over

If somebody knows a simple device for Amplifier, please let me know.

Use a transformer.

---
Regards,
Bob Monsen

 

[Ian Malcolm]

Jumpster Jiver wrote:

can this sort of cable be bought.. is it standard!?



If you can get in touch with the manufacturer's parts department maybe
you could order it. It's probably not available anywhere else.



If its a streight cable with both ends the same and detachable, take it

down a good video repair shop and see if they can match it. So long as
the contact pitch is correct you can always cut down a wider cable.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- &
[dot]=.
*Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must.