Chip with simple program for Toy

"aman" <aman.bindra@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113787325.197698.157470@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I have another idea. Why not use a sound sensor triggered by an alarm
clock. So the output of the sound sensor can trigger 555 monostable
multivibrator.


It might be easier to think backwards, use a presetable DOWN counter
and
look for the borrow or terminal count pin to go active. This
eliminates the
extra gates.
If you make the 555 pulse once for every 1.5 minutes, a single 10 bit
counter would cover more than 24 hours.
 
"js5895" <JoshTmp@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1113790587.746117.184540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I have the meter in voltage reading mode, not current mode, ouch!, lol.
I was testing it the night I got it, and forgot the load, and it was
lights out. When I have it in voltage mode it's in a complete circuit.
I had it in current mode, line to each screw on the switch but,
making sure it's wasn't a complete circuit, that's when it dimly lit,
which was weird, since it wasn't a complete circuit, but it only did
this once, I tried it again and nothing happened, it could of been
some anomaly from the no load incident or, because it's new.
I updated the image to show the common point, and where the switch
is sending power, here:
http://home.nycap.rr.com/joshs/threewaywire.bmp

Thanks.
Hey thanks, that little arrow help a bunch. No, I can't tell you why it
lit the neon at all, I'll just have to waste one! Have Dremel, will travel.
Remember that voltage is read across a circuit or device, not in series.
Please don't read current when your testing mains unless you get a clamp
on probe. I'm glad you and the meter are okay!

I have accidentally probed an outlet with my meter set to Ohms.
Fortunately,
I have a (generation one 1982) Fluke DMM. It shrugs off this sort of abuse.

Once, while using a friends cheap DMM, I didn't see that his probes were in
common and 10A. When he activated the light switch, the resulting bang
blew me off the ladder! My friend caught me and I was uninjured but I was
seeing spots for a while. Get this, the meter fuse was INTACT after
that!!!!
The rotary switch was welded though.
 
"spudnuty" <spudnuty@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:1113796719.602357.113400@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
3 way switches have 3 terminals: a common and two non common. The
common is wired to the load or to the hot. The two non commons are
wired between the 2 switches via two wires, usually black and red. When
the load is activated there is no potential between the common and non
common 1 (shorted) or non common 2 (no connection), nor between the two
non commons 1&2 (one is active the other no connection) When the load
is off a potential appears between the two non commons 1&2 since one
will carry the hot and the other will be connected to neutral through
the load.
The neon and series resistor will be connected between non common 1&2.
Typically they draw .5 to 3 ma so when you connected your meter it
caused the neon to light but dimly. The resistor is usually 19k to
220k.
Richard
You're describing exactly what I drew...I just don't know what kind of a
load
a DMM set to volts and placed in series does W.R.T. the neons. I not going
to test it either!!!!
 
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote in message
news:cmG8e.204$yd7.156@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...
"spudnuty" <spudnuty@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:1113796719.602357.113400@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
3 way switches have 3 terminals: a common and two non common. The
common is wired to the load or to the hot. The two non commons are
wired between the 2 switches via two wires, usually black and red. When
the load is activated there is no potential between the common and non
common 1 (shorted) or non common 2 (no connection), nor between the two
non commons 1&2 (one is active the other no connection) When the load
is off a potential appears between the two non commons 1&2 since one
will carry the hot and the other will be connected to neutral through
the load.
The neon and series resistor will be connected between non common 1&2.
Typically they draw .5 to 3 ma so when you connected your meter it
caused the neon to light but dimly. The resistor is usually 19k to
220k.
Richard


You're describing exactly what I drew...I just don't know what kind of a
load
a DMM set to volts and placed in series does W.R.T. the neons. I not
going
to test it either!!!!
Why not? If measuring voltage the input impedance of a DMM would be fairly
high - into the Mohms, I would suggest - subject to range selected.

Cheers.
 
"Chris" <not@work.com> wrote in message
news:IWG8e.15052$5F3.11556@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote in message
news:cmG8e.204$yd7.156@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...

"spudnuty" <spudnuty@lycos.com> wrote in message
news:1113796719.602357.113400@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
3 way switches have 3 terminals: a common and two non common. The
common is wired to the load or to the hot. The two non commons are
wired between the 2 switches via two wires, usually black and red.
When
the load is activated there is no potential between the common and
non
common 1 (shorted) or non common 2 (no connection), nor between the
two
non commons 1&2 (one is active the other no connection) When the load
is off a potential appears between the two non commons 1&2 since one
will carry the hot and the other will be connected to neutral through
the load.
The neon and series resistor will be connected between non common 1&2.
Typically they draw .5 to 3 ma so when you connected your meter it
caused the neon to light but dimly. The resistor is usually 19k to
220k.
Richard


You're describing exactly what I drew...I just don't know what kind of a
load
a DMM set to volts and placed in series does W.R.T. the neons. I not
going
to test it either!!!!


Why not? If measuring voltage the input impedance of a DMM would be fairly
high - into the Mohms, I would suggest - subject to range selected.
I'm not that curious since I can see it's wrong. I might use a high value
resistor
though, just not my DMM.
 
I can't seem to find a datasheet for the SFH2030, but found this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2242
where it says that the device can be used either as a photodiode (with
suitable reverse biasing), or as a photovoltaic cell. I suspect your circuit
is using it as the latter.
The datasheet for the Vishay part doesn't mention the same capability.


<jondoeengineer@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113686696.583964.284670@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
I've built the circuit shown at the following link:

http://www.mitedu.freeserve.co.uk/Circuits/Interface/irext5.htm

However, I seem to be having a problem regarding ambient light. I did
make one change to the circuit. Since I couldn't find the SFH2030 IR
detector diode, I used a Vishay BPV22NF with a daylight filter. Also,
it might be worth noting that I used a wall wart to power the device
instead of a battery. Anyway, the only way I can get the device to
work is to completely turn all of the lights off in the room. Is there
some way to get this to operate so that the circuit is insensitive to
ambient light such as daylight and 60 Hz lighting? I'm new to IR
circuits, but I'm guessing that this has something to do with the
reverse bias levels on the IR detector diode, but I'm not sure. Any
help would be appreciated.

The reason I select this circuit was because I thought it was less
prone to the effects of ambient light.
 
For your TV type, you should get in touch with Casio, and order the
original.

These sets are easily damaged, if the adaptor does not properly match for
its needs! I have seen a fair number of clients have problems after. Only
Casio can service the their sets, and the cost is not worth it.

--

JANA
_____


"Annie" <afritz@aol.com> wrote in message
news:d3so8q$hfr$1@reader01.singnet.com.sg...
Hi, I just bought a portable handheld tv, the Casio TV-970, and want to
purchase a universal adaptor for it.
The universal adaptors I've seen have different ratings, from 350mA, to over
1000mA.
The specifications on the user guide says that it runs on 6 volts, and the
power consumption is approximately 3.1W.

How much mA do I need?

Regards,
Patrick
 
"Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113807893.869570.121280@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Thanks all. Actually DTMF chip (UM95089) I'm using is old, discontinued
part. And it was really hard to find the datasheet around, lucky enough
here, I got one :). They have suggested keypad schematic(Figure 1)
which I can't understand! I've uploaded the datasheet here
http://www.geocities.com/nospam4u_jack/UM95089.pdf , will you please
have a look at this problem?

Thanks again
Excellent, this chip is a clone of our late '70's MK5089. You may ground
any row and any column to produce DTMF which is perfect for electronic
control of the dialer. You say your 2 of 8 keypad has internal pull-ups,
Have you any idea of the value? You may be able to short the keypad pull-up
resistors You're datasheet states that Vil has to be below .2 volts for it
to be
recognized as a low. If not, as John pointed out, you can fix this keypad
with
external logic in one of several ways. I would use an EPROM to fix this or
buy a replacement keypad. This vendor has some hanging in his store:

http://www.tannerelectronics.com/

Jim Tanner can help you if you choose to call the store.
 
On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:19:41 -0700, aman wrote:

I am looking for a single row 24 Pin power connector for AC with 0.1''
pitch. Can anybody point me to some useful sources for it. I am able to
find it at Tyco but it is "made to order part" with min quantity 512
and 35 days lead time.
http://www.google.com/search?q=%22header+connectors%22

Good Luck!
Rich
 
On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 07:24:31 -0700, Thomas Vogel wrote:

hi,

I can´t find this group: "alt.binaries.schematics.electronic ".

Can anybody give me a link for this group?
No. There is no such thing.

To access alt.binaries groups, you have to have a real newsreader,
connected to a real newsserver. Google wants to protect you from
naked pictures.

Sorry.
Rich
 
On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 04:15:16 -0700, stu wrote:

Thank you John,

I appreciate your response.
Let us know how long this 36 volt motor lasts at 48 volts with
bang-bang control.

Good Luck!
Rich
 
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 15:32:45 -0400, Byron A Jeff wrote:

In article <1113594290.611535.21470@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
aman <aman.bindra@gmail.com> wrote:
Is it possible to use 555 to generate a pulse which triggers after
every 24 hours.

Not by itself. There's no way to generate a RC constant with any accuracy
over that long a period of time.

Am I looking at an RC time constant which is not at all feasible ?

Right.

It's tasks like this where flash microcontrollers really excell. Something
like a small PIC or AVR can knock out this application with a single chip
and no external parts except for maybe a transistor switch to get to the
same 200 mA output current of the 555.
And $150.00 worth of development system, and however long it takes to
learn to program it.

Here's the _real_ answer:

http://www.ee.washington.edu/stores/DataSheets/cd4000/cd4060.pdf

Good Luck!
Rich
 
Let us know how long this 36 volt motor lasts at 48 volts with
bang-bang control.

Good Luck!
Rich
Dunno about you guy's but I'd feel safer riding that thing with some kind of
intermediate speed to lessen the strain on the motor/battery/transmission,
or something is likeley to go bang from the startup loads.

Chris
 
In article <pan.2005.04.18.16.59.53.152302@example.net>,
Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net> wrote:
It's tasks like this where flash microcontrollers really excell

And $150.00 worth of development system,
Only if you want to spend it. Homebrew programmers like my Trivial Programmers
can be breadboarded in less than an hour's time and for less than $15 in
Radio Shack parts.

My Trivial programmers are located here:

http://www.finitesite.com/d3jsys

and however long it takes to learn to program it.
You can program in assembly, no doubt. All of the development and programming
software is free.

While I recommend that if you're going to be doing this long term that you
be familiar with assembly, for a quick head start writing in a high level
microcontroller language like JAL may be the ticket. You can find JAL at
http://jal.sf.net. Also Wouter van Ooijen has a JAL based simple blinky LED
application for many type of PIC microcontrollers here:

http://www.voti.nl/blink/index_1.html

Here's the _real_ answer:
http://www.ee.washington.edu/stores/DataSheets/cd4000/cd4060.pdf
It's an answer for this application.

However any investment of time or money in a microcontroller can be amortized
over a bunch of projects. And even if it's truly a one off (which I doubt
once the utility is realized) $20 and an afternoon learning the basics of
how to program the part isn't that big an investment. The next project
won't have a 4060 or the 555 as a solution. However it's likely that a
bootloaded 16F88 for example can do this project, and the next one, and the
one after that.

BAJ
 
In article <1113787325.197698.157470@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
aman <aman.bindra@gmail.com> wrote:
I have another idea. Why not use a sound sensor triggered by an alarm
clock. So the output of the sound sensor can trigger 555 monostable
multivibrator.
There's a much simpler way if you want to go that route.

Buy a cheap battery driven clock with hands. Something like the module
outlined here:

http://www.du.edu/~jcalvert/tech/quartz.htm

Now remove the minute and second hand leaving only the hour hand.

Set up to pass the hour hand through a slotted sensor like this one:

http://www.embedded.com/showArticle.jhtml?articleID=10700612

Now with a simple 1.5V battery and a clock module you get a signal exactly once
every 24 hours. Use something like a 555 to guarantee a single trigger
and that's about it.

BAJ
 
"Susan" <liaaba@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1a0b6eef.0504180838.601ae044@posting.google.com...
Hi,
Hi, Susan or Keith.

I was having this conversation with my friends the other day, he saw
some guy on TV, he was touching some power source with 1 hand, and
holding a fish on the other, and his feet were standing on ground
(i.e. he's connected to ground). When they start the power source,
the fish starts frying and he was OK (now this is not the part we're
arguing about). So we started arguing, I was saying, since he's
connected to ground through his feet, there should be minimal (if not
none) current flow through his other hand that's holding the fish,
since it's an open node, there is not return path, so there should be
no current flow to that arm
That's right. Such a demonstration would
have to be a hoax.

(i.e. I'm viewing the human body as a 5
way circuit, 4 limbs, and your head all connected together to a common
node, your body, so 1 hand and the 2 legs form the complete path for
current flow, and there should only be current flow in this path, as
the other branches are not connected to a return path for the
electrons to flow, now I know I'm making a lot of assumptions about
the human body, and I'm assuming limbs work the same way as a copper
wire, in that electrons can only flow 1 direction in it in any 1
time),
That model is good enough for the present purpose.

hence I was arguing the fish should not be fried, there should
be a charge build up on the fish, but since the fish is not connected
to a return path, there should be no current through it. This made
sense to me, but my friend did mention something that got me pondering
as well, as we see on TV (urban legend or not, I don't know), when
people get electrocuted, their hair is all buffed up,
That is a requirement of Hollywood physics, not
the physics that govern in the real world. Also,
any electrical phenomenon must involve visible arcs
curling all over the place in Hollywood physics.

meaning there
was current flow into their head (possibly via the veins? bloody is
liquid, so it's conductive right?), but then, this would throw my
theory off, hence, I'm here to look for an answer.
Stick with the physics you learned in school or
textbooks and pay no attention to TV or movies.

Taking this further, so suppose someone grabs onto a floating power
source (say a broken transmission line), as long as his feet (or any
body part) are off the ground, he won't be electrocuted (much like the
bird on a transmission line...not yet anyway, but as soon as he steps
back onto ground, it'll get really interesting...speaking of which,
how do the birds discharge themselves without getting electrocuted?),
is this correct?
Roughly true. However, at high enough voltage,
(which is lower as frequency increases), enough
current can flow capacitively to be dangerous.
The best rule is: Stay away from high voltage lines.

Thanks,
Keith
You're welcome.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.
 
"Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113847546.997457.38760@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Lord thanks a lot for reply. I'm very sorry I didn't stated the problem
clearly. Pullup resistors (20K -10K) are internal to the chip and are
*not* on my keypad. Please refer to page 5 of the datasheet. Keypad is
just a simple arrangement of switches in 4x4 matrix, which is shorting
the corresponding row and column. Problem here is after pressing the
switch I've to connect the shorted terminal to ground, in order to
generate a tone. I want to get the tones only by pressing switches
itself. I know there are many chips around which can easily solve my
problem, but I'm interested to do with this one.

Thanks again

You can do it like this:

Connect the keypad row lines to the UM95089 row inputs.
Connect each of the keypad column lines to the base of
an NPN switch (such as 2N3904), and ground each emitter.
Connect each collector to one of the UM95089 column inputs.
This circuit is shown for a 2x2 switch array below, where
R1 and R2 are row inputs and C1 and C2 are column inputs.

.-----------o----------- R1
| |
| |
o | o
|=|> |=|>
| o | o
| |
'---. '---.
| |
.---)-------o---)------- R2
| | | |
| | | |
| o | | o |
|=|> | |=|> |
| o | | o |
| | | |
'---o '---o
| |
| |
| |
--- ---
.-v \-. .-v \--.
| | | |
GND------o-----)-----' |
| '--- C2
|
|
'---------------- C1
(created by AACircuit v1.28.4 beta 13/12/04 www.tech-chat.de)

This circuit gives up a little noise margin, but as long
as it is operated at room temperature or above and
the keypad is close to the IC, this degradation should
not cause a problem.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.
 
<liaaba@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113853100.364776.71430@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Larry Brasfield wrote:
"Susan" <liaaba@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1a0b6eef.0504180838.601ae044@posting.google.com...
Hi,
Hi, Susan or Keith.


I'm using my girlfriend's account, so this is Keith, not Susuan.
Hi, Keith.

I was having this conversation with my friends the other day, he saw
some guy on TV, he was touching some power source with 1 hand, and
holding a fish on the other, and his feet were standing on ground
(i.e. he's connected to ground). When they start the power source,
the fish starts frying and he was OK (now this is not the part we're
arguing about). So we started arguing, I was saying, since he's
connected to ground through his feet, there should be minimal (if not
none) current flow through his other hand that's holding the fish,
since it's an open node, there is not return path, so there should be
no current flow to that arm

That's right. Such a demonstration would
have to be a hoax.

(i.e. I'm viewing the human body as a 5
way circuit, 4 limbs, and your head all connected together to a common
node, your body, so 1 hand and the 2 legs form the complete path for
current flow, and there should only be current flow in this path, as
the other branches are not connected to a return path for the
electrons to flow, now I know I'm making a lot of assumptions about
the human body, and I'm assuming limbs work the same way as a copper
wire, in that electrons can only flow 1 direction in it in any 1
time),

That model is good enough for the present purpose.


So does this mean that under normal (real) circumstances, the person
will get electrocuted and the fish will remain untouched?
If the power source had enough voltage relative to earth,
and the victim had conductive enough shoes and stood on
conductive earth, then I would expect the victim to get a
very bad electrical shock. And if it killed him, he could
be said to have been electrocuted.

If so, does
that mean whenever a person gets electrocuted, whichever body parts are
not connected to the ground or not part of the path to ground, they
will remain unelectrocuted?
Electrocution applies to the whole organism. (It
either lives or dies.) But current sufficient to cook
flesh or disrupt heart or nervous system activity, at
line frequencies, pretty much has to flow through
ohmically connected circuits. So the person in the
hoax was not prone to having his fish-holding arm
shocked.

hence I was arguing the fish should not be fried, there should
be a charge build up on the fish, but since the fish is not connected
to a return path, there should be no current through it. This made
sense to me, but my friend did mention something that got me pondering
as well, as we see on TV (urban legend or not, I don't know), when
people get electrocuted, their hair is all buffed up,

That is a requirement of Hollywood physics, not
the physics that govern in the real world. Also,
any electrical phenomenon must involve visible arcs
curling all over the place in Hollywood physics.

meaning there
was current flow into their head (possibly via the veins? bloody is
liquid, so it's conductive right?), but then, this would throw my
theory off, hence, I'm here to look for an answer.

Stick with the physics you learned in school or
textbooks and pay no attention to TV or movies.

Taking this further, so suppose someone grabs onto a floating power
source (say a broken transmission line), as long as his feet (or any
body part) are off the ground, he won't be electrocuted (much like the
bird on a transmission line...not yet anyway, but as soon as he steps
back onto ground, it'll get really interesting...speaking of which,
how do the birds discharge themselves without getting electrocuted?),
is this correct?

Roughly true. However, at high enough voltage,
(which is lower as frequency increases), enough
current can flow capacitively to be dangerous.
The best rule is: Stay away from high voltage lines.


So how does the bird discharge themselves after leaving the
transmission to avoid getting electrocuted? Or do they?
Birds that live when landing on power lines do not
complete a circuit. Their feet are shunted by a fat
piece of copper so little voltage appears between
their feet. And little current flows through their legs.
What little capacitively conducted charge they may
have, if they depart the line not at a voltage zero
crossing, is small compared to the what you have
likely experienced when you shuffle across a nylon
carpet in your rubber shoes and touch a grounded
object.

I've seen the remnants of a crow that landed in the
wrong place on a power pole transformer. That
bird did not avoid getting electrocuted.

....
Thanks again, I'm gladly my knowledge acquired through my electronics
classes are not failing me.
There is not a lot of foolishness in the hard sciences.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.
 
On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 12:36:13 -0700, "Larry Brasfield"
<donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113847546.997457.38760@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Lord thanks a lot for reply. I'm very sorry I didn't stated the problem
clearly. Pullup resistors (20K -10K) are internal to the chip and are
*not* on my keypad. Please refer to page 5 of the datasheet. Keypad is
just a simple arrangement of switches in 4x4 matrix, which is shorting
the corresponding row and column. Problem here is after pressing the
switch I've to connect the shorted terminal to ground, in order to
generate a tone. I want to get the tones only by pressing switches
itself. I know there are many chips around which can easily solve my
problem, but I'm interested to do with this one.

Thanks again


You can do it like this:

Connect the keypad row lines to the UM95089 row inputs.
Connect each of the keypad column lines to the base of
an NPN switch (such as 2N3904), and ground each emitter.
Connect each collector to one of the UM95089 column inputs.
This circuit is shown for a 2x2 switch array below, where
R1 and R2 are row inputs and C1 and C2 are column inputs.

.-----------o----------- R1
| |
| |
o | o
|=|> |=|
| o | o
| |
'---. '---.
| |
.---)-------o---)------- R2
| | | |
| | | |
| o | | o |
|=|> | |=|> |
| o | | o |
| | | |
'---o '---o
| |
| |
| |
--- ---
.-v \-. .-v \--.
| | | |
GND------o-----)-----' |
| '--- C2
|
|
'---------------- C1
(created by AACircuit v1.28.4 beta 13/12/04 www.tech-chat.de)

This circuit gives up a little noise margin, but as long
as it is operated at room temperature or above and
the keypad is close to the IC, this degradation should
not cause a problem.
---
Very nice.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
 
On 18 Apr 2005 13:21:26 -0700, "phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Google wants to protect you from
naked pictures.

Naked pictures?!?! Where!?!?!

No more leaving it to the imagination, i want to see some young, nubile
PN junctions w/o their casings in suggestive poses!!
---
That would look like open heart surgery! Check out "Request for nasty
chip action... on abse.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
 

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top