Chip with simple program for Toy

Ron M. wrote:

On Saturday, October 25, 2008 at 10:57:30 AM UTC-5, Peter Hucker wrote:
Has anyone ever actually been unlucky enough to get solder splattering into their eye? I've had it hit my leg, hand, and face, but never in my eye. How bad is it?

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Confuscious say: "War doesn't determine who's right. War determines who's left."

My opinion is I don't want to know what it feels like, ever. So I will
continue wearing the glasses. YMMV

Right, but most people don't learn from lecturers like you and reading stuff about safety and people bossing-around other people around.
These people only learn from experience.

 

[Mr. Man-wai Chang]

On 3/12/2017 2:30 AM, Paul Hayton wrote:

Hi there

I run a retro BBS using Mystic BBS software. The author of the software has
been actively developing it for the last 15+ years. I thought I'd post here
to let anyone interested in BBSing that there is a Raspberry Pi (ARM) version
of Mystic available from mysticbbs.com

Be sure to use the latest 1.12 Alpha, it's far more developed and robust than
the much earlier 1.11 release.

Some links that may interest you

Mystic BBS - www.mysticbbs.com
Mystic Guy YouTube - https://goo.gl/2s71cx
fsxNet - www.bbs.geek.nz/fsxnet.zip

The last two links are things I run that help support Mystic and/or provide
access to Mystic support and others using the software

I supposed any Linux distributions could run it?

--
@~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty!
/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

 

[LoStaff .]

On Sun, 3 Dec 2017 01:44:46 +0800, "Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>
wrote:

>I supposed any Linux distributions could run it?

Mystic BBS v1.12 A35 is the latest alpha test release for people who want to
help test new features or run the cutting edge version.

These alpha versions are considered to be the most stable releases, and are the
recommended versions to use:.

Windows (32-bit native also works in 64-bit): MYS112A35_W32.RAR
Windows (64-bit native): MYS112A35_W64.RAR
Linux (32-bit): MYS112A35_L32.RAR
Linux (64-bit): MYS112A35_L64.RAR
ARMHF V6 Linux (32-bit, Raspberry Pi, ODROID, etc): MYS112A35_PI.ZIP
Macintosh OSX (32-bit): MYS112A35_O32.ZIP
Macintosh OSX (64-bit): MYS112A35_O64.ZIP

 

[Mr. Man-wai Chang]

On 19/12/2017 2:08 AM, edrhodes@hotmail.com wrote:

Why don’t you do some honest to God research, and come back here with an informed opinion instead of dropping charged questions as if they made you look clever. Hint; they don’t.

I am still hoping to meet someone smart enough to do the research for
you and me and the rest of the world about it.

US and the world are so crazy about Tesla and its batteries. I am
wondering what happen to all those battery fluid when it expired. What
is happening to those AA/AAA dry batteries and liquid capacitors?

You may be the deciding factor in my finally switching
over to Eternal September instead of Google Groups,
because ES would allow me to block you.

You have the right and possibly the guns and nuclear bombs to convert
the WHOLE USENET into a moderated one.

You definitely might be doing that in your company if not your country.

--
@~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty!
/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 12/24/2017 04:46 PM, Steve Morris wrote:

On 25/12/17 07:21, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, 24 December 2017 19:47:00 UTC, Steve Morris  wrote:
I was wondering what would happen if I wired the output of a 100W audio
amplifier directly across a sizable (4700uF) electrolytic capacitor.

It could be assumed the amp is push-pull and the cap is polarized.

How would it react in terms of a test load?

Steve Morris

try sci.electronics.basics


Do you post there too?

Steve Morris

Lots of us do. No stigma attached, it's just not a design question.
(Cross-posted to s.e.basics)

The answer depends entirely on whether the amp itself is stable with a
pathological load like that, and (assuming that it is) what its input is
and what the characteristics of the cap are.

If the amp output is just sitting at zero volts, it isn't going to do
anything dramatic to the cap. If it oscillates, or if you put in a
large AC signal, and the cap is a smallish polarized electrolytic (as
opposed to a nonpolarized one), the cap probably isn't long for this
world, unless the amp dies or current-limits first.

The reactance of such a capacitor at (say) 10 kHz is

Xc = 1/( 2 pi * 10kHz * 4.7e-6 F) = 3.3 milliohms,

i.e. very nearly a short circuit. The equivalent series resistance
(ESR) is probably more than that, so the cap looks like a very low
resistance.

The net is that depending on the characteristics of the amp and what you
put into it, your cap could be destroyed or could be completely unharmed.

Actual audio people will probably have a better handle on how your
average 100W amp will respond to such abuse.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 12/24/2017 05:07 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 12/24/2017 04:46 PM, Steve Morris wrote:
On 25/12/17 07:21, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, 24 December 2017 19:47:00 UTC, Steve Morris  wrote:

Should read
> Xc = 1/( 2 pi * 10kHz * 4.7e-3 F) = 3.3 milliohms

Merry Christmas!

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

This is a stupid idea That load in no way approximates what an audio amp is supposed to work into.

if it doesn't low the amp, that is the amp is hefty enough to survive, you are likely to blow the cap to kingdom come.

 

On Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 5:07:38 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 12/24/2017 04:46 PM, Steve Morris wrote:
On 25/12/17 07:21, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, 24 December 2017 19:47:00 UTC, Steve Morris  wrote:
I was wondering what would happen if I wired the output of a 100W audio
amplifier directly across a sizable (4700uF) electrolytic capacitor.

It could be assumed the amp is push-pull and the cap is polarized.

How would it react in terms of a test load?

Steve Morris

try sci.electronics.basics


Do you post there too?

Steve Morris



Lots of us do. No stigma attached, it's just not a design question.
(Cross-posted to s.e.basics)

The answer depends entirely on whether the amp itself is stable with a
pathological load like that, and (assuming that it is) what its input is
and what the characteristics of the cap are.

If the amp output is just sitting at zero volts, it isn't going to do
anything dramatic to the cap. If it oscillates, or if you put in a
large AC signal, and the cap is a smallish polarized electrolytic (as
opposed to a nonpolarized one), the cap probably isn't long for this
world, unless the amp dies or current-limits first.

The reactance of such a capacitor at (say) 10 kHz is

Xc = 1/( 2 pi * 10kHz * 4.7e-6 F) = 3.3 milliohms,

i.e. very nearly a short circuit. The equivalent series resistance
(ESR) is probably more than that, so the cap looks like a very low
resistance.

The net is that depending on the characteristics of the amp and what you
put into it, your cap could be destroyed or could be completely unharmed.

Actual audio people will probably have a better handle on how your
average 100W amp will respond to such abuse.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

At least, use a light bulb.

 

>"At least, use a light bulb"

Unfortunately that only presents a 100 ohm load, assuming a 100 watt bulb. It should also be incandescent. I use a toaster oven, measures 9.1 ohms. That much more closely approximates a proper load. Or we could let the dude make a mess and learn the hard way.

I know, I have an evil mind.

 

On Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 5:07:38 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 12/24/2017 04:46 PM, Steve Morris wrote:
On 25/12/17 07:21, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, 24 December 2017 19:47:00 UTC, Steve Morris  wrote:
I was wondering what would happen if I wired the output of a 100W audio
amplifier directly across a sizable (4700uF) electrolytic capacitor.

It could be assumed the amp is push-pull and the cap is polarized.

How would it react in terms of a test load?

Steve Morris

try sci.electronics.basics


Do you post there too?

Steve Morris



Lots of us do. No stigma attached, it's just not a design question.
(Cross-posted to s.e.basics)

The answer depends entirely on whether the amp itself is stable with a
pathological load like that, and (assuming that it is) what its input is
and what the characteristics of the cap are.

If the amp output is just sitting at zero volts, it isn't going to do
anything dramatic to the cap. If it oscillates, or if you put in a
large AC signal, and the cap is a smallish polarized electrolytic (as
opposed to a nonpolarized one), the cap probably isn't long for this
world, unless the amp dies or current-limits first.

The reactance of such a capacitor at (say) 10 kHz is

Xc = 1/( 2 pi * 10kHz * 4.7e-6 F) = 3.3 milliohms,

i.e. very nearly a short circuit. The equivalent series resistance
(ESR) is probably more than that, so the cap looks like a very low
resistance.

The net is that depending on the characteristics of the amp and what you
put into it, your cap could be destroyed or could be completely unharmed.

Actual audio people will probably have a better handle on how your
average 100W amp will respond to such abuse.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

We used to hook up 2 Macintosh power amps to the deflection coils of a tv tube. Made beautiful Lissajous figures!

 

[George Herold]

On Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 5:14:22 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 12/24/2017 05:07 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 12/24/2017 04:46 PM, Steve Morris wrote:
On 25/12/17 07:21, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, 24 December 2017 19:47:00 UTC, Steve Morris  wrote:

Should read
Xc = 1/( 2 pi * 10kHz * 4.7e-3 F) = 3.3 milliohms

Merry Christmas!

Hah, I'm late but Merry Christmas too!

Certainly the Audio amp has some output impedance too.
George H.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

On Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 11:28:33 AM UTC-5, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:

On 6/12/2017 9:44 AM, james@nospam.com wrote:
What is the thread size for screws to mount a HDD or Floppy drive?

I know they are very small, and vary in length, but I think they are all
the same thickness and thread pitch. I need to see if I can get these at
a local hardware store, or else I will have to go to ebay.

Anyone know the specs on them?

Did you attempt a Google Search using keywords?

https://www.google.com.hk/search?q=computer+chassis+screw+thread+size

And don't forget about Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=screws+computer+chassis

What is the thread size for screws to mount a HDD or Floppy drive?

Trade(US) or Metric?

 

On Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 11:28:33 AM UTC-5, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:

On 6/12/2017 9:44 AM, james@nospam.com wrote:
What is the thread size for screws to mount a HDD or Floppy drive?

I know they are very small, and vary in length, but I think they are all
the same thickness and thread pitch. I need to see if I can get these at
a local hardware store, or else I will have to go to ebay.

Anyone know the specs on them?

Did you attempt a Google Search using keywords?

https://www.google.com.hk/search?q=computer+chassis+screw+thread+size

And don't forget about Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=screws+computer+chassis

For Precision Screw Thread Sizes In Trade:
#2-56
#4-40
#5-40
#6-32
#8-32
#10-24
#10-32
1/4-20
1/4-28
5/16-18
5/16-24
3/8-16
3/8-24
1/2-13

For Precision Screw Thread Sizes In Metric
M2
M2.5
M3
M4
M5
M6
M8
M10
M12
M16

-- http://www.uccomponents.com/vented.html

 

[Diesel]

"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>
newsvuoqe$mf0$2@toylet.eternal-september.org Sat, 02 Dec 2017
17:44:46 GMT in alt.os.linux.ubuntu, wrote:

On 3/12/2017 2:30 AM, Paul Hayton wrote:
Hi there

I run a retro BBS using Mystic BBS software. The author of the
software has been actively developing it for the last 15+ years.
I thought I'd post here to let anyone interested in BBSing that
there is a Raspberry Pi (ARM) version of Mystic available from
mysticbbs.com

Be sure to use the latest 1.12 Alpha, it's far more developed and
robust than the much earlier 1.11 release.

Some links that may interest you

Mystic BBS - www.mysticbbs.com
Mystic Guy YouTube - https://goo.gl/2s71cx
fsxNet - www.bbs.geek.nz/fsxnet.zip

The last two links are things I run that help support Mystic
and/or provide access to Mystic support and others using the
software

I supposed any Linux distributions could run it?

A blast from the past. I thought it was more than fifteen years
old though, alas.



--
To prevent yourself from being a victim of cyber
stalking, it's highly recommended you visit here:
https://tekrider.net/pages/david-brooks-stalker.php
===================================================
Half of what I know will be obsolete in five years -- I'd just like
to know which half.

 

[Mr. Man-wai Chang]

On 29/1/2018 08:05, Diesel wrote:

A blast from the past. I thought it was more than fifteen years
old though, alas.

I think I started playing with BBS in Hong Kong using a 1200 baud modem
back in year 1989.

--
@~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty!
/( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you!
^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

 

On Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 7:43:44 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Tue, 06 Feb 2018 16:05:11 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

Will Deoxit on a circuit board cause problems? In other words, is it
conductive if it's touching components?

Think about it for a moment. If a switch lube were conductive, and
you sprayed it on the switch contacts, one might expect the switch
lube to short out the switch. That would make it a very bad switch
lube. Therefore, one might suspect that NOT shorting out the switch
which Deoxit is trying to lubricate might be a formulation
requirement. In other words, it better not be conductive.

Oh, so it can MAKE things that aren't supposed to conduct conduct.

 

[default]

On Sun, 11 Feb 2018 04:52:51 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I got an old AM-FM pocket transistor radio which looked good and clean
till I opened the battery compartment. Very corroded carbon zinc
batteries were in it. After removing them, I cleaned off as much of the
corrosion as possible by scraping with a plastic stick, and scrubbing
with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. That got rid of most of it, and I was
surprised to find the battery clips are not badly damaged, but I had to
use a fingernail file (sandpaper strip) on the ends of the springs.

Better yet, the radio works perfectly.

But there is still a little of that battery corrosion still in there. In
all the years I've worked on electronics, I have never found a perfect
way to clean up leaked batteries. Is there some sort of spray or a
chemical that will dissolve or deactivate that crap?

Of course it has to be safe for the circuit board and components too. I
use the 91% isopropyl alcohol, so it evaporates quickly and leaves
little water residue behind. (Then leave it dry well before use).

I like dish detergent and a soak in very hot water then scrub with a
toothbrush and let dry in a warm oven, for hours. But with unsealed
potentiometers, or those poly insulated tuning caps they used back in
the day, I wouldn't recommend it.

WD-40 seems to work well in electronics. Good for noisy pots and can
help keep out moisture.

 

[Andy]

On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 6:59:23 AM UTC-6, default wrote:

On Sun, 11 Feb 2018 04:52:51 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I got an old AM-FM pocket transistor radio which looked good and clean
till I opened the battery compartment. Very corroded carbon zinc
batteries were in it. After removing them, I cleaned off as much of the
corrosion as possible by scraping with a plastic stick, and scrubbing
with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. That got rid of most of it, and I was
surprised to find the battery clips are not badly damaged, but I had to
use a fingernail file (sandpaper strip) on the ends of the springs.

Better yet, the radio works perfectly.

But there is still a little of that battery corrosion still in there. In
all the years I've worked on electronics, I have never found a perfect
way to clean up leaked batteries. Is there some sort of spray or a
chemical that will dissolve or deactivate that crap?

Of course it has to be safe for the circuit board and components too. I
use the 91% isopropyl alcohol, so it evaporates quickly and leaves
little water residue behind. (Then leave it dry well before use).

I like dish detergent and a soak in very hot water then scrub with a
toothbrush and let dry in a warm oven, for hours. But with unsealed
potentiometers, or those poly insulated tuning caps they used back in
the day, I wouldn't recommend it.

WD-40 seems to work well in electronics. Good for noisy pots and can
help keep out moisture.

I recommend swabbing with a solution of sodium bicarbonate to neutralize the acid.

 

[default]

On Sun, 11 Feb 2018 05:53:28 -0800 (PST), Andy
<andrewkennedy775@gmail.com> wrote:

On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 6:59:23 AM UTC-6, default wrote:
On Sun, 11 Feb 2018 04:52:51 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I got an old AM-FM pocket transistor radio which looked good and clean
till I opened the battery compartment. Very corroded carbon zinc
batteries were in it. After removing them, I cleaned off as much of the
corrosion as possible by scraping with a plastic stick, and scrubbing
with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. That got rid of most of it, and I was
surprised to find the battery clips are not badly damaged, but I had to
use a fingernail file (sandpaper strip) on the ends of the springs.

Better yet, the radio works perfectly.

But there is still a little of that battery corrosion still in there. In
all the years I've worked on electronics, I have never found a perfect
way to clean up leaked batteries. Is there some sort of spray or a
chemical that will dissolve or deactivate that crap?

Of course it has to be safe for the circuit board and components too. I
use the 91% isopropyl alcohol, so it evaporates quickly and leaves
little water residue behind. (Then leave it dry well before use).

I like dish detergent and a soak in very hot water then scrub with a
toothbrush and let dry in a warm oven, for hours. But with unsealed
potentiometers, or those poly insulated tuning caps they used back in
the day, I wouldn't recommend it.

WD-40 seems to work well in electronics. Good for noisy pots and can
help keep out moisture.

I recommend swabbing with a solution of sodium bicarbonate to neutralize the acid.

What acid?

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2018-02-11, default <default@defaulter.net> wrote:

On Sun, 11 Feb 2018 05:53:28 -0800 (PST), Andy
andrewkennedy775@gmail.com> wrote:

On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 6:59:23 AM UTC-6, default wrote:
On Sun, 11 Feb 2018 04:52:51 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

I got an old AM-FM pocket transistor radio which looked good and clean
till I opened the battery compartment. Very corroded carbon zinc
batteries were in it. After removing them, I cleaned off as much of the
corrosion as possible by scraping with a plastic stick, and scrubbing
with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. That got rid of most of it, and I was
surprised to find the battery clips are not badly damaged, but I had to
use a fingernail file (sandpaper strip) on the ends of the springs.

Better yet, the radio works perfectly.

But there is still a little of that battery corrosion still in there. In
all the years I've worked on electronics, I have never found a perfect
way to clean up leaked batteries. Is there some sort of spray or a
chemical that will dissolve or deactivate that crap?

Of course it has to be safe for the circuit board and components too. I
use the 91% isopropyl alcohol, so it evaporates quickly and leaves
little water residue behind. (Then leave it dry well before use).

I like dish detergent and a soak in very hot water then scrub with a
toothbrush and let dry in a warm oven, for hours. But with unsealed
potentiometers, or those poly insulated tuning caps they used back in
the day, I wouldn't recommend it.

WD-40 seems to work well in electronics. Good for noisy pots and can
help keep out moisture.

I recommend swabbing with a solution of sodium bicarbonate to neutralize the acid.

What acid?

Ammonium chloride


--
This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software