Chip with simple program for Toy

On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 16:42:25 GMT, "Nicholas O. Lindan" <see@sig.com>
wrote:

kamakize@gmail.com> wrote

Trying to
find out what it is. Http://www.randompostcinema.com/what.html

Lightmeter? Bridge circuit, provisions for an external mirror galvo,
battery.

Doesn't it have a nameplate? Pics are pretty fuzzy and it is
hard to read the legends. Try placing the thing upside down
on a scanner.
looks like an old "standard cell", but the "photocell" labeling is
confusing.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
What does the upper label on the corner say?

This looks like it was made in the early 1930's to the mid 1940's. If
I had more views of it, especialy clearly (not out of fucus) showing me
the labels on everything, including rear views, I may be able to
identify it. I am very familiar with many of the types of test gear and
radio equipment from that era.

Jerry G.
======
 
Resistance/ohm meter standard of some type would be my guess.

Don
313

<kamakize@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1104748472.701663.131260@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
I recently picked up this strange thing at a thrift shop. Trying to
find out what it is. I know it isn't a radio, but figure some of you
that have been around the block may know what it was.

It has Photocells written under the top left buttons, looks like
contacts for a battery. GA under the other top contacts.

My guess it is from the 1930s-1950s

Pictures can be found at Http://www.randompostcinema.com/what.html

Anything you can tell me on what the heck it is, I much appreciate it.
You can reach me at Kamakize@gmail.com

Thanks much!
 
Yes, this is correct.

See also the Electrochemistry Dictionary at
http://electrochem.cwru.edu/ed/dict.htm
Good luck, and Happy New Year: Z.N.
 
On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 19:13:36 GMT, "WayneL" <nospam-mail@wlawson.com>
wrote:

Hi

Can anyone advise where I can get Quartz triple distilled water from (I'm in
the UK) and what is it the best conductivity you could expect from the most
purest water
Also what is the best way of 1/ storing ultra pure water and 2/ dispensing
it so that the rest of the water does not get contaminated. Should I
dispense it in to several small bottles with pipette lids?




Cheers

Wayne

___
Highest resistivity you can get is about 18.3 megohm-cm at 25 deg C.
Self-ionization of water limits it to any higher value. This type of
water can be produced by triple distillation in quartz apparatus or by
mixed-bed deionization(much easier).
Keeping it this way is tough, because it will have a tendency to
dissolve the countainer it is in and absorb atomspheric gasses,
especially carbon dioxide. I've seen a demineralizer setup that
produced 18.3 megohm-cm water(as measured by an in-line probe) that
would measure around 5 after falling through about a foot of air!
Purging the container with an inert gas, like argon would help with
this, but then you'd have to he concerned about contaminants in the
argon, etc. Some argon would dissolve in the water, but couldn't be
measured by conductivity. Also there my be organic compounds present
that can't be measured by conductivity. What is your application for
this water?
GRAVITY:

It's not just a good idea-IT'S THE LAW!
 
"John Woodgate" <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> wrote in message
news:v3FurKQZrx2BFw4W@jmwa.demon.co.uk...
I read in sci.electronics.design that WayneL <nospam-mail@wlawson.com
wrote (in <wVDCd.375$II4.204@newsfe5-win.ntli.net>) about 'Quartz Trpple
distrilled water', on Tue, 4 Jan 2005:
I have used google, but I am after water with an R>18MR.
Make your own!...
Most labs using hyper/ultra pure water have small machines to do just
this. If you can find a company near you, involved in the preparation of
chemical reagants, they may be prepared to sell you some. The problem is
that if you 'buy' such water, it is incredibly difficult to keep it this
pure. Normal bottles will contaminate it in only a few minutes (so you end
up paying a lot for special containers - teflon coated linings). Do a
search through the companies offering laboratory reverse osmosis systems.
If one is near you, talk to them.
It is not something that is easy to ship, and retain the purity.

Best Wishes
 
On Thu, 06 Jan 2005 06:57:21 GMT, Robert Baer
<robertbaer@earthlink.net> wrote:

Roger Hamlett wrote:

"John Woodgate" <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> wrote in message
news:v3FurKQZrx2BFw4W@jmwa.demon.co.uk...
I read in sci.electronics.design that WayneL <nospam-mail@wlawson.com
wrote (in <wVDCd.375$II4.204@newsfe5-win.ntli.net>) about 'Quartz Trpple
distrilled water', on Tue, 4 Jan 2005:
I have used google, but I am after water with an R>18MR.
Make your own!...
Most labs using hyper/ultra pure water have small machines to do just
this. If you can find a company near you, involved in the preparation of
chemical reagants, they may be prepared to sell you some. The problem is
that if you 'buy' such water, it is incredibly difficult to keep it this
pure. Normal bottles will contaminate it in only a few minutes (so you end
up paying a lot for special containers - teflon coated linings). Do a
search through the companies offering laboratory reverse osmosis systems.
If one is near you, talk to them.
It is not something that is easy to ship, and retain the purity.

Best Wishes

Yes; the more pure the water is, the more corrosive it becomes
(relatively speaking).
?
no.

Water is the universal solvent; even mountains turn into virtual
molehills when doused with water.
??
you seem to mixing your metaphors. it rains on mountains all the
time.
i wonder how long water would take to dissolve Pt.

Water is a polar molecule, acid (H) and base (OH) combined.
???
so what?


while you're at it, can a strong magnet clamped on a pipe remove water
hardness?


sheeshh!
 
Keith Williams wrote:
In article <1105625524.829086.55180@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
dave.harper@gmail.com says...

Mike Harrison wrote:
On 12 Jan 2005 10:50:46 -0800, dave.harper@gmail.com wrote:

I'm interested in using a flash chip for some datalogging
applications,
however am not sure if it's practical to integrate. EEPROMs are
nice
(and easy), but I would like to get something with more than
just
32kB
of memory.

Can flash memory only be written one sector at a time? Is it
possible
to do single-byte-only writes?

Yes, as long as the sector has previously been erased.
For datalogging, this is often not a problem as the flash can be
fully erased after emptying the
log. For continuous-wrap type logs it just means you need to
erase a
new sector before you use it.

Great, thanks for the insight. This means once a sector is erased,
I
can write a single byte at a time without affecting neighboring
bytes
on the same sector?

Sure.

One of the chips I was looking at was one from
Amtel:

http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc0291.pdf

I was planning on connecting the address and data pins through
serial-to-parallel converters to free up pins on my
microcontroller.
Would this chip and this concept work?

For some reason my browsers can't get to the web today, so I can't
look
at that particular DS. But, look at the programming cycle. What you
propose will likely be somewhere between "incredibly clumsy" and
"virtually impossible".

--
Keith
Why do you say that? This isn't for high speed data logging, and I'll
probably be writing only 20 bytes/sec.

I don't think it'd be too clusmy... output the address and data to the
s-p converters, and write.

Dave
 
In article <1105631916.804638.326020@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
dave.harper@gmail.com says...
Keith Williams wrote:
In article <1105625524.829086.55180@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
dave.harper@gmail.com says...

Mike Harrison wrote:
On 12 Jan 2005 10:50:46 -0800, dave.harper@gmail.com wrote:

I'm interested in using a flash chip for some datalogging
applications,
however am not sure if it's practical to integrate. EEPROMs are
nice
(and easy), but I would like to get something with more than
just
32kB
of memory.

Can flash memory only be written one sector at a time? Is it
possible
to do single-byte-only writes?

Yes, as long as the sector has previously been erased.
For datalogging, this is often not a problem as the flash can be
fully erased after emptying the
log. For continuous-wrap type logs it just means you need to
erase a
new sector before you use it.

Great, thanks for the insight. This means once a sector is erased,
I
can write a single byte at a time without affecting neighboring
bytes
on the same sector?

Sure.

One of the chips I was looking at was one from
Amtel:

http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc0291.pdf

I was planning on connecting the address and data pins through
serial-to-parallel converters to free up pins on my
microcontroller.
Would this chip and this concept work?

For some reason my browsers can't get to the web today, so I can't
look
at that particular DS. But, look at the programming cycle. What you
propose will likely be somewhere between "incredibly clumsy" and
"virtually impossible".

--
Keith

Why do you say that? This isn't for high speed data logging, and I'll
probably be writing only 20 bytes/sec.
Again, my browsers are highly trashed (tried to install PDFReader 7.0
and it didn't go so well), so I can't see the DS. The Atmel stuff may
be different than the others I've used. If so, "never mind".
I don't think it'd be too clusmy... output the address and data to the
s-p converters, and write.
The write cycle of the flash devices I used was far more complicated.
One had to do a silly dance[*] for each byte written. Again, look at
the data sheet at the write cycle. I think you'll find its not as
simple as writing an SRAM. Again, Atmel may be different.

--
Keith

[*] some examples of Flash commands for the AMD 29F040B I used moons
ago.

Write byte command:

cycle Addr Data
1 555 AA
2 2AA 55
3 555 A0
4 Addr Data

Erasing sector command:

Cycle Addr Data
1 555 AA
2 2AA 55
3 555 80
4 555 AA
5 2AA 55
6 Sector 30
 
krw wrote:
In article <2u8du0p1c8s2i7n3akluip68ud69edq65q@4ax.com>,
john@spamless.usa says...
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 16:09:20 +0200, "valentin tihomirov"
spam@abelectron.com> wrote:


Between separate shift register chips, clock skew is fatal. If skew is
possible, add some delay (RC or some gate delays) between the Qn
output of each chip and the Din of the next, more delay than the max
possible clock skew.

Another "trick" is to route the clocks from the Qn (last FF) towards
the Q0 (first FF).
I have routed clocks the opposite direction of the data shift, with a
clock buffer between each register chip, so the propagation delays
occurred in opposite directions. Only two loads on each clock (one
register and one clock buffer).

--
John Popelish
 
Please accept may apologies

Wayne

"David Harmon" <source@netcom.com> wrote in message
news:423d3bde.469181390@news.west.earthlink.net...
None of the newsgroups in the sci.electronics.* hierarchy are intended
for buying and selling. An obvious giveaway is that none of them have
"forsale" or "marketplace" in their name.

See Mark Zenier's guide to the hierarchy, at
ftp://ftp.eskimo.com/u/m/mzenier/seguide9706.txt

When sci.electronics was split back in '95, an associated newsgroup
was created for buying and selling:
misc.industry.electronics.marketplace

http://pages.ebay.com/help/welcome/usenet-policy.html
Quote:
eBay users may not post on Usenet groups (Internet newsgroups) to
advertise eBay or an eBay listing that is inappropriate or violates the
Usenet board policy. If Usenet abuse is reported to eBay, we may among
other remedies remove the listing, issue a warning, or suspend the
user's eBay account.
 
Call me a dumb but I cannot find any app notes on that. Are there any clock
implications, is it the major concern?
1. The SRs will need a clear clock. This can easily be solved by
adding a ST buffer bufore each clock input. Note that some SRs have a
ST input.

2. When SRs are cascaded clock skew can be a big problem. The IMHO
best way to avoid this is using SRs with a delayed output, like the
4094.


Wouter van Ooijen

-- ------------------------------------
http://www.voti.nl
Webshop for PICs and other electronics
http://www.voti.nl/hvu
Teacher electronics and informatics
 
thanks for your reply, it seems that the unit may be damaged then
i can only get the 0-60 second nterval working, it then switches to
the 0-60 minute "on" dial (with the red LED indicator and stays there
indefinately. i believe its possibile i could have shorted the output
while testing the lugs kept slipping off.

or

if you look under feature description it states that only the
"01" config is for coninuous operation and "00" and "03"
require toggling of the "start" switch.

since this is not a "01" model it does not repeat cycle on its own,
perhaps.

I have connected
L1 (white wire houshold power) to pins A,7, 9
and
L2 (black) to pin B and opposing side of myload1.
I have experimented with the output pins 1 or 4 or 3 or 6 to the
remaing side myload2

I get 2 results total from 4 outputs the smaller interval first and
then the LED lights at the ON timer dial (the longer interval and
STAYS permantly in that mode. (which has opened the possibilty
that i may have burned the larger interval timer circuit since the
2nd larger ON interval never completes.)

what i find confusing is that outputs 1 or 4 are identical to outputs
3 or 6 which are 2 different interval ranges.
it appears that i have a dual interval timer only half of which seems
to work which would be the smaller 0-60s "OFF" first interval (which
can be flopped as u stated depending on NO or NC conection .










On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 23:00:52 GMT, "CWatters"
<colin.watters@pandoraBOX.be> wrote:

urjant@mail.com> wrote in message
news:E=XnQUvmS4IGl6GKP4lxH2VWRQ0a@4ax.com...

I have a project that needs a timer relay to run
a device ON for a few seconds (30ish?) evey few minutes.

i purchased this item
http://www.dancon.com/pub/Timers/ElectronicTimer/Spec%20Sheet/DA100T.pdf

with a configured part number of DA1420A3

I looked at the data sheet and if the part number you give is correct then
you can make it do what you want......

The 14 => 6 to 60 sec OFF
The 20 => 6.4 to 60 min ON
The A3 => 120V 50/60Hz AC or 120V DC
The blank at the end after the A3 => "standard, OFF time first, DPDT relay
Output"

The thing to note is that the output relay is DPDT which means if you use
the right contacts you _can_ invert the output so that it's it ON for
Seconds first then OFF for Mins just as you wanted.

If the blank was an 03 that would mean "one time" only so.... it appears you
DO have a standard repeating model as well.

Note the the minimium OFF time would be 6.4 Mins (eg 6 mins 24 Seconds).
 
<urjant@mail.com> wrote in message
news:QHboQdTDEO=saGTjMEEJO=WR4YyD@4ax.com...

what i find confusing is that outputs 1 or 4 are identical to outputs
3 or 6 which are 2 different interval ranges.
No I think you missunderstand. It's NOT one timer operating each switch.
There is only _one_ relay coil and that operates the two switches together.
It like you have two switches linked together mechanically so both switch
together. In this case with your wiring I would expect "outputs 1 or 4 are
identical to outputs 3 or 6"

In the table for calculating the part number at the end of the dats sheet it
says under Features:

(Blank) = Standard, OFF Time First, DPDT
01 = ON Time First
03 = One Cycle Only (OFF Time First)
(Requires factory components)

So my interpretation is still that blank after the A3 means it's repeating.
 
heres is more text not found in the pdf.

temporary available at

ftp://parts:parts@divxdude.dyndns.org/book2.jpg









On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 11:58:15 GMT, "CWatters"
<colin.watters@pandoraBOX.be> wrote:

urjant@mail.com> wrote in message
news:QHboQdTDEO=saGTjMEEJO=WR4YyD@4ax.com...

what i find confusing is that outputs 1 or 4 are identical to outputs
3 or 6 which are 2 different interval ranges.

No I think you missunderstand. It's NOT one timer operating each switch.
There is only _one_ relay coil and that operates the two switches together.
It like you have two switches linked together mechanically so both switch
together. In this case with your wiring I would expect "outputs 1 or 4 are
identical to outputs 3 or 6"

In the table for calculating the part number at the end of the dats sheet it
says under Features:

(Blank) = Standard, OFF Time First, DPDT
01 = ON Time First
03 = One Cycle Only (OFF Time First)
(Requires factory components)

So my interpretation is still that blank after the A3 means it's repeating.
 
On 15 Jan 2005 04:08:52 -0800, padmow_69@yahoo.com (PADME) wrote:

Hi all,

I've heard there is an IC which can convert an IBM PC keyboard to ASCII.

Any help is very appreciated.

Thank you in advance
Padme
MANY years ago I built my own KVM switch, by sending the keyboard
signals down a shift register and doing a broad-side decode to
activate the switch. Following are the codes as seen at the shift
register. I have schematics, if you're interested... but it's NOT a
trivial task (as I did it... today probably just a uP :)

L-ALT 011101110
TAB 111110010
CAPS 111100111
L-SHFT 011101101
L-CTRL 011101011
SPACE 111010110
R-ALT 011101110
R-CTRL 011101011
R-SHFT 010100110
ENTER 010100101
BK-SP 010011001
INSERT 110001111
HOME 010010011
PG-UP 010000010
PG-DN 110000101
DELETE 010001110
END 010010110
UP-A 110001010
LEFT-A 110010100
DN-A 010001101
RT-A 010001011
Z 111100101
X 011011101
C 011011110
V 111010101
B 111001101
N 111001110
M 011000101
, 010111110
.. 110110110
/ 110110101
A 111100011
S 011100100
D 111011100
F 011010100
G 111001011
H 011001100
J 111000100
K 010111101
L 010110100
; 110110011
' 110101101
Q 111101010
W 011100010
E 011011011
R 011010010
T 111010011
Y 011001010
U 011000011
I 110111100
O 010111011
P 010110010
[ 110101011
] 110100100
` 111110001
1 111101001
2 011100001
3 111011001
4 111011010
5 011010001
6 011001001
7 111000010
8 111000001
9 110111001
0 110111010
- 010110001
= 010101010
\ 110100010
ESC 110001001
F1 011111010
F2 011111001
F3 111111011
F4 011110011
F5 011111100
F6 111110100
F7 101111100
F8 011110101
F9 111111110
F10 011110110
F11 010000111
F12 111111000
PRT-SCR 011101101
SCRL-LK 010000001
PAUSE 010001000
NUM-LK 010001000
NUM / 110110101
NUM * 110000011
NUM - 010000100
7-HOME 010010011
8-UP 110001010
9-PG-UP 010000010
4-LEFT 110010100
NUM-5 110001100
6-RT 010001011
1-END 010010110
2-DN 010001101
3-PG-DN 110000101
0-INS 110001111
..DEL 010001110
NUM + 110000110
NUM-ENT 010100101



...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
yeah i tried both ways..second(lond) interval just stays
on permenant. like 2nd dial LED stays on too.





I even tried closing it after applying L1 to the oter points ..no
change..

toggleing doesnt work at all timer does not function at all if no
power to A and B




On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:32:32 GMT, "CWatters"
<colin.watters@pandoraBOX.be> wrote:

urjant@mail.com> wrote in message
news:6hHpQaOa3fIKATLDIUJkXh6aKR+i@4ax.com...

heres is more text not found in the pdf.

temporary available at

ftp://parts:parts@divxdude.dyndns.org/book2.jpg

Ok that helps...

Refer to the text below where it says ""00" Feature". It clearly says
"Repeat Repeat Cycle Timing" as it also does for feature = 01.

Only under 03 does it says "One Cycle Timing"

I think I can see the problem... Try this....

Close the control switch to start the timer running BUT _leave it closed_
don't toggle it. Just wait. Does it repeat when the timers expire?

It think it will repeat because it says "Close control switch to start
timing cycle. Open control switch to reset". eg It doesn't say toggle switch
to start. Leave it closed and see what happens.

Colin
 
On 15 Jan 2005 11:24:31 -0800, ngdbud@hotmail.com wrote:

i mean the flybacks from the link in William j. beaty's posting.
Oh, well you need a flyback diode for that, to guard against the back
EMF. Don't take any notice of the other posters here, I know what
you're really asking. The answer basically to your question is the
answer basically to your question is you need a flyback diode for
that, to guard against the back EMF. Don't answer basically your
question is any notice of the other posters here, I know what you're
really asking. The answer basically to your question is you need the
answer basically to your question is a flyback diode for that, to
guard against the back EMF. Don't take any notice of the other posters
here, I know.
The answer basically to your question is what you're really asking.
The answer basically is your question.
HTH.
 
Also:
Vulgar responses normally indicate the intelligence level of the
respondant.
Art
Not an apt word:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=define%3Avulgar

BTW, starting a sentence with a conjunction is not proper English.
http://m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary?book=Dictionary&va=conjunction
(4) "Join" means "appears in the middle",
not "appears at the beginning".

}Top posters are totally ignored as well.
} Clarence_A
}
Well, not always ignored; sometimes corrected.
This is what the document on which the newsgroups concept is based
has to say about blockquoting and top-posting.
http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:8PaSp2kKbWoJ:www.faqs.org/rfcs/rfc1855.html+at-*-top-*-*-message+give-context

I'm sure you'll think I'm being pedantic here as well.
http://www.google.com/search?&q=define%3Apedantic
 
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 16:47:48 +0000, Miles Harris wrote:

On 15 Jan 2005 11:24:31 -0800, ngdbud@hotmail.com wrote:

i mean the flybacks from the link in William j. beaty's posting.

Oh, well you need a flyback diode for that, to guard against the back
EMF. Don't take any notice of the other posters here, I know what
you're really asking. The answer basically to your question is the
answer basically to your question is you need a flyback diode for
that, to guard against the back EMF. Don't answer basically your
question is any notice of the other posters here, I know what you're
really asking. The answer basically to your question is you need the
answer basically to your question is a flyback diode for that, to
guard against the back EMF. Don't take any notice of the other posters
here, I know.
The answer basically to your question is what you're really asking.
The answer basically is your question.
HTH.
Can I have a hit of that?
 

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