Chip with simple program for Toy

Dbowey wrote:

Jamie posted:

I guess working 21 years in a lab
performing Lost, Skin, Radiated, and velocity
tests in a work area that has made
electronic wire and cables for 50 years
isn't enough ?
To let you in on something, our
facility was one of the first to
start massive manufacturing of CAT 4,5
and the like along with the foam pairs
bundled with twisted pairs of control
wires etc...
high levels of DC currents pulsing
over long runs bundled in the same
race way with no form of EMF shielded
does un-balance the Twisted pairs there
by influencing the signal.


--

How about sharing some of that vast experience and tell us how induced voltage
unbalances a balanced cable pair by "influencing the signal." What work did
you do in that lab?

Don
bandpass, cross over, burn test for smoke, copper purity, rip cord break
with out deforming pairs.
Practical application testing, one of them just happens to be a a
test that requires a length of a 100' to be laid along in side of a race
way
with mounts that have a high current lines. the CaT is placed in a
holder that places it 1 " away from the high current lines which AC and
DC currents are generated up to 500Amps while monitoring the twisted pairs..
this test tell us how consistent the twisted pairs are and how well
they are bunched together. twisted pairs that are not uniform at the
correct the lay will show uneven readings under AC currents..
etc..
P.S.
we are currently making some CAT wire with combined Optics and
rein forced binders made of Kevlar along with some high current control
wires as a composite cable to be used in future homes and businesses.
should be interesting. we have never combined those types of components
in one cable before.
so far, testing on the samples appear to be passing very well on the
CAT and control wires. i think this maybe due to the fact that we have
put lightly braided shield around those.

Btw.
putting Cat wire in a race way that houses high current wires for
drives DC/AC has prevent to not work well for our electricians. it
took them aprox 3 mounts of playing around with a machine that was
having a very slow response rate reading data from controllers via a
Cat 5 . it turned out that, many errors were being generated in the
interface and thus the network connection was doing alot of resends
or waiting for updated readings thus causing the machines performance
to be unpredictable.
running the CAT 5 in its own race way solved that problem.
 
Subject: Re: Single Supply Op-Amp
From: "Ken McDonald" sorry.no@email.com
Date: 10/30/2004 2:10 PM Central Daylight Time
Message-id: <lGRgd.77085$5v2.32081@fe2.columbus.rr.com


"Repzak" <repzak@GEDhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4183e595$0$33733$14726298@news.sunsite.dk...

"Ken McDonald" <sorry.no@email.com> skrev i en meddelelse
news:lhPgd.1977$vH5.1958@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
Can someone recommend a single supply op-amp with better specs than an
LM358?

What are you needs ?

I guess I'm looking for a single supply dual general purpose op-amp that has
higher gain and higher slew rate than an LM358. Something newer I guess.


which application ?

I'm working on an infrared receiver right now, but am always throwing some
kind of amplifier circuit together.


Rail to Rail ?

Rail to Rail would be nice, but definitely want the output to go to ground.

Ken


Kasper
Hi, Ken. Usually, the LM358/LM324 are looked at as starting points. They're
popular because of the balance of features at a dirt-cheap price.

I'm hearing:
Single supply dual op amp
Higher gain than LM358 (GBW = 0.7 MHz)
Higher slew rate (SR = 0.3V/us)
Other than that, everything else at least as good as an LM358.

Of course, you'll have to pay more. One good choice for a "super LM358" is the
OP292, available from Analog Devices. The non-improvements include:

Minimum single supply = 4.5V
More expensive: DigiKey Prices
LM358NNS-ND $0.54 ea.
OP292GS-ND $3.02 ea.

Everything else is a plus. Check it out:

http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/882565314OP292_492_b.pdf


Good luck
Chris
 
colklink@newsguy.com wrote:


I understand how to use 2 telephones (USA) with 9v battery and
resistor and possibly .47mfd cap across resistor to make 2 station
intercom
BUT
How do you use two HANDSETS(USA modern not old carbon type) to make an
intercom? I cannot get into the handsets to see if earphone and the
mic are connected to anything such as a diode. I have a red & green
lead that I believe is earphone and a yellow (+) and black leads is
mic. I have tried experimently to connect them as if they were phones
and failed. I don't need much (gain/amplificarion if any) they will be
connected across 5 feet of wire.

PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP-MY SPAN FILTER IS VERY AGRESSIVE.
I understand that you are into tinkering with stuff, etc (after all, this
entire newsgroup is about that;-)) , but a phone set actually has couple
important features, such as echo and feedback cancellation as well as
amplification, that aren't too easy to implement using just discrete
electronics. On the other hand, a brand new analog phone can be had in
Wall Mart for maybe $7 to $10, and I cannot think of eBay not being able
to offer the two that you need for maybe $10 or less. Maybe you may want
to skip this basic part and instead concentrate on the actual application
you need the intercom for? Or am I violating tinkering spirit of a member
of this group by suggesting leaving some things to Wall Mart? ;-)

--
Dmitri Abaimov, RCDD
http://www.cabling-design.com
Cabling Forum, color codes, pinouts and other useful resources for
premises cabling users and pros
http://www.cabling-design.com/homecabling
Residential Cabling Guide
-------------------------------------




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http://www.cabling-design.com/forums
no-spam read and post WWW interface to your favorite newsgroup -
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"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8mkno051kuqumhf1chq4vpqefkhg0eugge@4ax.com...
On Fri, 5 Nov 2004 10:10:35 -0500, "Tam/WB2TT" <t-tammaru@c0mca$t.net
wrote:


"Matt Warnock" <warnockmREM@OVEcox.net> wrote in message
news:UzCid.7639$ep3.1328@lakeread02...
I'm connecting some electronics to the power in my car. I know that the
car electrical system can be a little harsh, so I'm wondering the best
way
to protect delicate electronics. The device in question is an LCD
screen
I have installed. The device came with an AC power supply and a
cigarette
lighter adaptor. The adaptor appears to have some power rectifying
circuitry. My question is, if I want to connect to this to the power,
what kind of circuitry should I build? I was going to use a 12v
rectifier
to keep the voltage from going over 12 volts, and a cap between the
input
voltage and ground and another one between the output voltage and
ground.
Is this a sufficient design for this application, and what value caps
should I use? I think I used small ceramic caps .22uf maybe? last time
I
made something like this. Also, I don't want to cut up my cigarette
lighter cord and use the rectifier, but this is an option too.

let me know if you have any ideas. thanks!

I don't know what you mean by 12 V rectifier. If you mean 12 V zener, keep
in mind that nominal battery voltage with the engine running will probably
be over 14 volts, and it could go higher under a trouble condition. To
limit
high voltage spikes, you could add an automotive transient suppressor.
These
generally limit at about 20 V.

Tam


A zener would require the appropriate resistor in series with it,
based on current draw and potential difference, to drop the excess
voltage also.

Tom
That's impractical. an LDO series regulator would work, but be overkill.

Tam
 
"Tam/WB2TT" <t-tammaru@c0mca$t.net> wrote in message
news:QsmdnTV_Rp5EChbcRVn-rg@comcast.com...
"Matt Warnock" <warnockmREM@OVEcox.net> wrote in message
news:UzCid.7639$ep3.1328@lakeread02...
I'm connecting some electronics to the power in my car. I know that the
car electrical system can be a little harsh, so I'm wondering the best
way to protect delicate electronics. The device in question is an LCD
screen I have installed. The device came with an AC power supply and a
cigarette lighter adaptor. The adaptor appears to have some power
rectifying circuitry. My question is, if I want to connect to this to
the power, what kind of circuitry should I build? I was going to use a
12v rectifier to keep the voltage from going over 12 volts, and a cap
between the input voltage and ground and another one between the output
voltage and ground. Is this a sufficient design for this application, and
what value caps should I use? I think I used small ceramic caps .22uf
maybe? last time I made something like this. Also, I don't want to cut
up my cigarette lighter cord and use the rectifier, but this is an option
too.

let me know if you have any ideas. thanks!

I don't know what you mean by 12 V rectifier. If you mean 12 V zener, keep
in mind that nominal battery voltage with the engine running will probably
be over 14 volts, and it could go higher under a trouble condition. To
limit high voltage spikes, you could add an automotive transient
suppressor. These generally limit at about 20 V.

Tam

A chip that limits the voltage to whatever its specified. I have one for 6
volts, there are ones for 6 and 9 and 12v. it has 3 pins, 1 in, 1 out, 1
shared ground. I guess I really mean a regulator, not rectifier.
 
Matt Warnock wrote:

I'm connecting some electronics to the power in my car. I know that the car
electrical system can be a little harsh, so I'm wondering the best way to
protect delicate electronics. The device in question is an LCD screen I
have installed.

**** The device came with a ...... cigarette
lighter adaptor. The adaptor appears to have some power rectifying
circuitry. ****
NO ! A cigarette lighter outlet provides DC. Therefore this adaptor doesn't need
to provide any *rectification*.

More likely, it adjusts ( regulates ) the car battery voltage ( which varies
somewhat in use ) to the correct voltage for the LCD.

My question is, if I want to connect to this to the power, what
kind of circuitry should I build? I was going to use a 12v rectifier to
keep the voltage from going over 12 volts,
Rectifiers don't do that.

and a cap between the input
voltage and ground and another one between the output voltage and ground.
Is this a sufficient design for this application, and what value caps should
I use? I think I used small ceramic caps .22uf maybe?
Far too small to do anything. You would need several, tens maybe, of thousands
of uF to significantly affect supply disturbances *plus* a series resistor or
choke.

last time I made
something like this. Also, I don't want to cut up my cigarette lighter cord
and use the rectifier, but this is an option too.
Do you know what voltage the LCD requires ? I suspect that the adaptor may
contain a voltage regulator that steps down the car's nominal 12 volts to the
needed value.


Graham
 
"Matt Warnock" <warnockmREM@OVEcox.net> wrote in message
news:FcTid.5$FE.4@lakeread06...
"Tam/WB2TT" <t-tammaru@c0mca$t.net> wrote in message
news:QsmdnTV_Rp5EChbcRVn-rg@comcast.com...

"Matt Warnock" <warnockmREM@OVEcox.net> wrote in message
news:UzCid.7639$ep3.1328@lakeread02...
I'm connecting some electronics to the power in my car. I know that the
car electrical system can be a little harsh, so I'm wondering the best
way to protect delicate electronics. The device in question is an LCD
screen I have installed. The device came with an AC power supply and a
cigarette lighter adaptor. The adaptor appears to have some power
rectifying circuitry. My question is, if I want to connect to this to
the power, what kind of circuitry should I build? I was going to use a
12v rectifier to keep the voltage from going over 12 volts, and a cap
between the input voltage and ground and another one between the output
voltage and ground. Is this a sufficient design for this application,
and what value caps should I use? I think I used small ceramic caps
.22uf maybe? last time I made something like this. Also, I don't want
to cut up my cigarette lighter cord and use the rectifier, but this is
an option too.

let me know if you have any ideas. thanks!

I don't know what you mean by 12 V rectifier. If you mean 12 V zener,
keep in mind that nominal battery voltage with the engine running will
probably be over 14 volts, and it could go higher under a trouble
condition. To limit high voltage spikes, you could add an automotive
transient suppressor. These generally limit at about 20 V.

Tam


A chip that limits the voltage to whatever its specified. I have one for
6 volts, there are ones for 6 and 9 and 12v. it has 3 pins, 1 in, 1 out,
1 shared ground. I guess I really mean a regulator, not rectifier.
Regulator, yes. Those are typically TO220 packages. They should be able to
handle just about anything automotive electrically speaking. Even in a
worst case scenario.

If the car adaptor has the regulation, why do you need to build anything
else? You might want to open up the cigarette adapter and see if there is
any regulator in the adaptor.. If there isn't, then just hook it straight to
power and don't worry about it.
 
John Larkin wrote:

I think people use toaster ovens. Try googling "toaster oven
surface
mount" or something. Heat is heat, although the time-temperature
profile should be controlled pretty well to properly reflow solder
paste. I've heard of people doing BGAs at home in a toaster oven, but
that scares even me.

An array of surfmount led's, solder pasted, placed, reflowed in an
oven shouldn't be too nasty. Hey, try it!

John

Thanks, John!

I'm going to try your technique in a few days as soon as my parts arrive.
I have to admit, it does look scary to me to put in an oven, but, hey, if
it gets me results I want - I'm all for it.

--
Dmitri Abaimov, RCDD
http://www.cabling-design.com
Cabling Forum, color codes, pinouts and other useful resources for
premises cabling users and pros
http://www.cabling-design.com/homecabling
Residential Cabling Guide
-------------------------------------


##-----------------------------------------------##
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http://www.cabling-design.com/forums
no-spam read and post WWW interface to your favorite newsgroup -
sci.electronics.basics - 5617 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##
 
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 05:05:33 GMT,
info_at_cabling-design_dot_com@foo.com (Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com))
wrote:

John Larkin wrote:

I think people use toaster ovens. Try googling "toaster oven
surface
mount" or something. Heat is heat, although the time-temperature
profile should be controlled pretty well to properly reflow solder
paste. I've heard of people doing BGAs at home in a toaster oven, but
that scares even me.

An array of surfmount led's, solder pasted, placed, reflowed in an
oven shouldn't be too nasty. Hey, try it!

John


Thanks, John!

I'm going to try your technique in a few days as soon as my parts arrive.
I have to admit, it does look scary to me to put in an oven, but, hey, if
it gets me results I want - I'm all for it.

Sometimes I put parts on both sides of a board. My production people
paste/place/reflow the botttom, cool, then repeat for the top. Second
pass through the oven, all the bottomside parts are hanging down, held
on by the surface tension of their re-melted solder. Works!

John
 
John Popelish wrote:

David Harper wrote:

Are there any advantages different types of capacitors have over other
types for regulating voltage? In my specific application, I have 2
ADCs, an accelerometer, and a pressure sensor (all of which use +5 as
reference).

As a follow up, does vibration affect capacitor's ability to regulate
voltage? (i.e. does microstrain in the cap cause voltage
fluxuations?) Are some more immune to vibration than others?

Thanks in advance for any insight!
Dave


High-K ceramics (Z5U, Y5V) definitely exhibit microphonic properties.

-- and Tantalums, if you can use them, don't. I've been present when a
problem was discovered in a pixel clock PLL that turned out to be
microphonic caps -- the solution was back-to-back tantalums.

Unless your application is very sensitive to power supply noise (which
your accelerometer may be, if it's a strain-gauge type), you can
probably decouple the power supply with such caps. Its really your call.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
 
On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 20:15:03 -0500, jsmith wrote:

THE ESSENCE OF OHMS LAW

by Jud Williams, Performance Power Technologies

A lot of folks do not have a feeling of what the difference
is between voltage and current or, for that matter, resistance. And
then there is the
term "power". Let's look at these terms and work toward a sense of
feeling about them.

Voltage is the hardest of the terms to understand because we have
developed
misconceptions due to hearing the term misused so often. Voltage is
merely stored
energy and really does not do anything useful. About all we can do
with voltage is
measure it. The thing that does all the work is current.

Current is well named because it describes what it really does. Look
at the current in a
river. It is basically the same concept. As current flows, it is
capable of doing work like
floating some object down the river or turning a water wheel.

Now, voltage does not do that. It just sits there as a potential. For
instance, the water
held back by a dam is just like the voltage in a battery. The voltage
in the battery is not
doing anything until something is hooked to the terminals which will
allow current to flow.
Then it is the current that does the work.

That's simple, isn't it?

As for power, it relates to how much work the current is doing. Take a
light bulb, for
instance. They are always rated in Wattage and we know that they get
very hot. That
heat is caused by the current flowing through the filament. The power
is then related to
the amount of heat that is generated. The hotter an object gets is
generally related to
the amount of power consumed.

So now we can presume that if a device were to have current passing
through it, it
would become warm to some degree, if not hot. If we were to increase
the amount of
current through a device, it would become hotter. How would we cause
the current to
increase through the device in question? Well, let's say that we are
using one battery to
begin with and then add a second battery which would double the
voltage. This
additional battery causes an increase of current through the device we
are working
with. Let's see how this happens.

And now, we will get a bit technical. This will explain Ohms law and
clear up some
mysteries surrounding it. Take a resistor of some value such as 10
Ohms. Note that we
capitalize the word Ohm. That's because it is a person's name. But to
go on with the
story, let's apply 12 volts across the resistor. Knowing these two
values we can now
calculate the amount of current that would be flowing through the
resistor. Ohms law
states that current (Amperes) is equal to the voltage, divided by the
value of the
resistor. Divide 12 Volts by 10 Ohms and we get 1.2 Amperes. Remember,
we
suggested that if we were to increase the voltage by adding another
battery, additional
current would flow. So let's add another 12 Volts and see what
happens. 24 Volts
divided by 10 ohms gives us 2.4 Amperes of current, just twice as much
as before. Do
you think the resistor will get warmer as a result of this?

Remember that the heat is a result of the power consumed by the
resistor. Ohms law
for power is current multiplied by Voltage. P equals I x E or "pie"
(just an easy way to
remember the formula). If the current with 12 Volts (one battery) is
1.2 Amperes, we
would calculate the power to be 14.4 Watts (Watt is another persons
name just as Volta
and Ampere are). Now let's again increase the voltage by adding a
second battery
which we have already discovered increases the current flow. 24 Volts
times 2.4
Amperes gives us 57.6 Watts. That is four times the wattage increase
for just twice the
voltage increase. Now you know why some devices get so hot so quickly.

END

Click Here to Return to List of
Articles
Watt you may encounter is some potential resitance to your current conduct.


Bob
 
On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 21:36:19 +0000, Dirk Bruere at Neopax
<dirk@neopax.com> wrote:

John Larkin wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 14:40:34 +0000, Dirk Bruere at Neopax
dirk@neopax.com> wrote:


jsmith wrote:


THE ESSENCE OF OHMS LAW

by Jud Williams, Performance Power Technologies

I prefer the hose pipe analogy.

The pressure of water ie how far it squirts, is voltage.
The amount of water per second is currrent.
The size of the hose is resistance.
Power is the rate at which water is coming out.



Why use analogies at all? There are no really good ones. It's easy to
explain things in real terms; all you have to do is accept that
particles can have charge and that materials can have resistance.

Because when children come across it for the first time it is not intuitive.
If it was trivially obvious it would not be named after Ohm.
Analogies are very helpful.
How many children understand water pressure and flow through pipes?
And if you tell them that water flow rate is proportional to pressure
difference, you are lying to the poor young souls.

John
 
John Larkin wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 21:36:19 +0000, Dirk Bruere at Neopax
dirk@neopax.com> wrote:


John Larkin wrote:


On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 14:40:34 +0000, Dirk Bruere at Neopax
dirk@neopax.com> wrote:



jsmith wrote:



THE ESSENCE OF OHMS LAW

by Jud Williams, Performance Power Technologies

I prefer the hose pipe analogy.

The pressure of water ie how far it squirts, is voltage.
The amount of water per second is currrent.
The size of the hose is resistance.
Power is the rate at which water is coming out.



Why use analogies at all? There are no really good ones. It's easy to
explain things in real terms; all you have to do is accept that
particles can have charge and that materials can have resistance.

Because when children come across it for the first time it is not intuitive.
If it was trivially obvious it would not be named after Ohm.
Analogies are very helpful.


How many children understand water pressure and flow through pipes?
Quite a few I imagine.
How many children have not played with hosepipes and water by age 12?

And if you tell them that water flow rate is proportional to pressure
difference, you are lying to the poor young souls.
Only if you're teaching fluid dynamics.

--
Dirk

The Consensus:-
The political party for the new millenium
http://www.theconsensus.org
 
On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 14:21:50 -0800, John Larkin wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 21:36:19 +0000, Dirk Bruere at Neopax
dirk@neopax.com> wrote:

John Larkin wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 14:40:34 +0000, Dirk Bruere at Neopax
dirk@neopax.com> wrote:


jsmith wrote:


THE ESSENCE OF OHMS LAW

by Jud Williams, Performance Power Technologies

I prefer the hose pipe analogy.

The pressure of water ie how far it squirts, is voltage.
The amount of water per second is currrent.
The size of the hose is resistance.
Power is the rate at which water is coming out.



Why use analogies at all? There are no really good ones. It's easy to
explain things in real terms; all you have to do is accept that
particles can have charge and that materials can have resistance.

Because when children come across it for the first time it is not intuitive.
If it was trivially obvious it would not be named after Ohm.
Analogies are very helpful.

How many children understand water pressure and flow through pipes?
Probably most of the ones who have ever played with a garden hose

And if you tell them that water flow rate is proportional to pressure
difference, you are lying to the poor young souls.
It must be a bitch being you.

Dumb fuck.
--
The Pig Bladder From Uranus, still waiting for
some hot babe to ask what my favorite planet is.
 
On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 22:24:34 +0000, Dirk Bruere at Neopax wrote:

Don Kelly wrote:

"Dirk Bruere at Neopax" <dirk@neopax.com> wrote in message
news:303qj0F2qmmblU1@uni-berlin.de...

jsmith wrote:


THE ESSENCE OF OHMS LAW

by Jud Williams, Performance Power Technologies

I prefer the hose pipe analogy.

The pressure of water ie how far it squirts, is voltage.
The amount of water per second is currrent.
The size of the hose is resistance.
Power is the rate at which water is coming out.

-----------
The amount of water per second is the rate at which water is coming out. Are
you saying that power and current are the same? Sorry- tain't so.

I know.
However, I didn't correct it after posting because I was trying to think of a
decent power analogy.
My HS fizzies teacher said, "power is the rate of doing work." This made
it especially clear to me, having learned about Ohm at about age 13. But
it does show the correspondence between electrical and mechanical stuff,
I'd say.

So, it's how fast the water is turning the wheel, multiplied by how
hard it's pushing.

Maybe tie the tank drain to a water wheel, that's coupled to the
bike pedals through a force gauge - although, it'd be somewhat of
a challenge coupling that to a bike going up that nearby hill. :)

Cheers!
Rich
 
jsmith wrote:
Sez who????
http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/units.html

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
Dirk Bruere at Neopax wrote:
Don Kelly wrote:

"Dirk Bruere at Neopax" <dirk@neopax.com> wrote in message
news:303qj0F2qmmblU1@uni-berlin.de...

jsmith wrote:


THE ESSENCE OF OHMS LAW

by Jud Williams, Performance Power Technologies


I prefer the hose pipe analogy.

The pressure of water ie how far it squirts, is voltage.
The amount of water per second is currrent.
The size of the hose is resistance.
Power is the rate at which water is coming out.


-----------
The amount of water per second is the rate at which water is coming
out. Are
you saying that power and current are the same? Sorry- tain't so.


I know.
However, I didn't correct it after posting because I was trying to think
of a decent power analogy.
Voltage is really like the difference in level between two bodies of
liquid, which is called 'head'. (I'm not sure if it's equivalent to
pressure.)

Then, energy is head * mass, and power is head * flow rate. Note that
energy and power has to be measured wrt the difference in levels, which
makes perfect sense. There is more potential energy with a fall of 100'
than a fall of 10'.

Now, use this fluid analogy to explain inductance... ;)

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 22:52:27 GMT, Rich The Philosophizer
<null@example.net> wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 14:15:55 +0000, Paul Burridge wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 03:59:52 GMT, Jonathan Kirwan
jkirwan@easystreet.com> wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 03:26:30 GMT, Rich Grise <rich@example.net> wrote:

Anybody else wanna call this guy's crap?

When I see such post "dumping," I just ignore it.

Same here. Let's face it: there's a lot of *bollocks* written about
the relationship between voltage, current and power. I know, because
just lately I've been responsible for most of it. ;-)

Are you the guy whom I recently mistakenly dumped all over because
I had mistaken you for one of my nemeses?

Well, I've been going easy, but now, you've declared that you can
take the heat, so watch out! ;-)
I'm afraid I've been around on Usenet for *far* too long now to pay
any attention to what anyone says any more. Feel free to flame away!
--

"What is now proved was once only imagin'd." - William Blake, 1793.
 
On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 23:23:59 GMT, Robert Monsen
<rcsurname@comcast.net> wrote:


Voltage is really like the difference in level between two bodies of
liquid, which is called 'head'. (I'm not sure if it's equivalent to
pressure.)

Then, energy is head * mass, and power is head * flow rate. Note that
energy and power has to be measured wrt the difference in levels, which
makes perfect sense. There is more potential energy with a fall of 100'
than a fall of 10'.

Now, use this fluid analogy to explain inductance... ;)
---
Ever do a belly flop?^)

--
John Fields
 

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