Chip with simple program for Toy

Lucian wrote:
Hi guys,

Could anyone let me know whether the number of mAh from a new battery
I intend to buy for my camcorder has to match the number of mAh from
the original battery? Thanks!
No. The higher the mAH the longer the battery will be able to power your camcorder.
Ensure that the voltage is the same.
--

Beginners and Intermediate Electronics
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/g.knott/index.htm
 
A gauss meter measures the field strength, whether static or dynamic. But
most gauss meters are meant for static field strength. Dynamic measurements are
more complex, just like any AC signal reading. You can see a peak change, rate
of change, or any number of variations of the field. It will all depend on the
meter and your application.
You can purchase Hall effect sensors pretty cheaply that have analog
outputs. They come with a field strength to output voltage chart in the slash
sheet. A little cogitation will show you how to make a simple analog meter from
such a device, since it is not much more than a fancy voltage meter calibrated
in field strength units.
In fact, you could use an analog Hall effect sensor and a DVM and a
conversion formula in a pinch.

Cheers!

Chip Shults
My robotics, space and CGI web page - http://home.cfl.rr.com/aichip
 
Thanks for the info, however, as a novice to electronics you've lost
me a little along the way. I actually have a schematic for an EMF
probe but it uses a panel meter a speaker and has an external probe -
do you think it would be possible to modify this to drop those items
and instead use LEDs? I have searched the net for a ready made
schematic for what I'm after but can't seem to find anything remotely
suitable.


Thanks,
Glenn
 
CM0 is in bit position 0 and has a value of 1 when set. Hence:

CM2 EQU H'0004'
CM1 EQU H'0002'
CM0 EQU H'0001'

CM2 | CM1 | CM0 = H'0007'

Hope this helps.
Dana Frank Raymond

"uuuuu" <uuuuu@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bi3o8r$ed3$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
I have the following PIC16F676 code

movlw CM2 | CM1 | CM0 ; configure comparator inputs as digital I/O
movwf CMCON ;

Is that the correct way , I mean
CM2 EQU H'0002'
CM1 EQU H'0001'
CM0 EQU H'0000'
so 2 | 1 | 0 will be just 3 which is not the same as 111 = 7 which
disables
the comparator?
 
The PIC headers specify CMx like the OP. Thus, you can't do what you want
using the OR operator.

I use a macro

#define BIT(_x) (1 << (_x))

and use

movlw BIT(CM2)|BIT(CM1)|BIT(CM0)

The reason they define it that way is that the bit operations take bit
numbers rather than masks. If you want to assign them separately, you use
something like

bcf CMCON, CM1

Regards,
Bob Monsen

"Dana Raymond, a minor God" <draymond@austin.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ZZe1b.944$bj.751@twister.austin.rr.com...
CM0 is in bit position 0 and has a value of 1 when set. Hence:

CM2 EQU H'0004'
CM1 EQU H'0002'
CM0 EQU H'0001'

CM2 | CM1 | CM0 = H'0007'

Hope this helps.
Dana Frank Raymond

"uuuuu" <uuuuu@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bi3o8r$ed3$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
I have the following PIC16F676 code

movlw CM2 | CM1 | CM0 ; configure comparator inputs as digital I/O
movwf CMCON ;

Is that the correct way , I mean
CM2 EQU H'0002'
CM1 EQU H'0001'
CM0 EQU H'0000'
so 2 | 1 | 0 will be just 3 which is not the same as 111 = 7 which
disables
the comparator?
 
Glenn Barlow wrote:
Thanks for the info, however, as a novice to electronics you've lost
me a little along the way. I actually have a schematic for an EMF
probe but it uses a panel meter a speaker and has an external probe -
do you think it would be possible to modify this to drop those items
and instead use LEDs? I have searched the net for a ready made
schematic for what I'm after but can't seem to find anything remotely
suitable.
Look at LED bargraph driver chips, LM3914 or 3915 IIRC,
to replace the speaker/meter (one's linear, the other
logarithmic, and I forget which is which). Caveat:
attenuation or amplification may be necessary to match the
chip's input needs.

As for eliminating the probe, the circuit will likely be
in a metallic case (for shielding purposes) which could
distort the field and hence the reading. If it isn't, the
circuitry itself will likely do some distorting and/or have
its operation affected by the field. That's why the probe
exists; to put as little metal as possible into the field so
as to keep such undesirable interactions to a minimum.

Do you absolutely _have_ to put the whole circuit in the
field? How large and how strong is the field? AC or DC? Why
don't you want to use a (more precise than LEDs) meter? Can
you tell us what you're trying to accomplish?

Oh, and could you share the circuit in
alt.binaries.schematics.electronics? I need to map the field
of a weird Helmholtz coil arrangement and I'm not happy with
what I've done so far.

Mark L. Fergerson
 
On 21 Aug 2003 14:45:10 -0700, glenn.barlow@db.com (Glenn Barlow)
wrote:

Am I right in believing that a Gauss Meter measures variations in the
magnetic field?

I have also heard the term EMF meter used - but my understanding is
that an EMF meter does not specifically measure changes in the
magnetic field - is this correct?
There are 2 basic technologies here. The Gauss meter (as others
have noted) can measure static magnetic fields like the Earth's
field or a permanent magnet. It needs a special sensor like Hall
effect or flux gate.

An EMF meter measures Electro Magnetic Fields, so that's
probably not what you want if you just want magnetism. But
you can make a simple monitor to measure *changing* in
magetic fields: Just connect a big coil of wire to a sensitive
AC meter. Note that this won't read the Earth's field or a
refrigerator magnet just sitting still, but can be very sensitive
to changes, by moving the coil or magnet. And it's pretty
easy to make from junk-box parts, like an old relay coil.

If you describe your application, we can provide specific advice.


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
Shareware from Interstellar Research
www.daqarta.com
 
The reason they define it that way is that the bit operations take bit
numbers rather than masks. If you want to assign them separately, you use
something like

bcf CMCON, CM1
yes, I do agree with this

movlw CM2 | CM1 | CM0 ; configure comparator inputs as digital I/O
movwf CMCON ;
so this would be wrong, right ? and yet this is straight out of pickit1 tutorial1
(debounce.asm)

Did they make a mistake ?
 
Dear Melissa,
You could try Jameco - www.Jameco.com - they have a
Cebek timers which use 12 Volt DC. Jameco also do a catalog. Or you could
Cebek's website directly - www.cebek.com/ingles/index.htm . They are Spanish
but thay may export to the U.S. Look under catalogue at the top of the page.
Hope this helps .

Simon.

"Melissa Frye" <mfrye@surfree.com> wrote in message
news:371a4c54.0308200906.6b267b26@posting.google.com...
I (with my complete lack of and electronics background) am trying to
build a gadget that does the following:

When started makes a buzzing noise for a pre-set, but variable amount
of time (.1 to 30 secs ideally), and automatically shuts itself off.

For example
Set for 17 secs. start. Buzzzzzzzzz (for 17 secs) autoshut-off.

Or
Set for 3.5 secs. start. Buzzzzzzzzz (for 3.5 secs) autoshut-off.

Can anyone give me any assitence with this? I can find buzzers at
radioshack, but not timers like I need....

Melissa
 
OK...don't laugh...I want to build a ghost detector to go ghost
hunting with my kids. Hence the request to build one with LEDs rather
than a panel meter. It seems that EMF detectors and Gauss meters are
both used in this type of application but what I really want to
measure is a changing magnetic field - so I really only want to
measure field strengths from 1-10 mG.

Calibration is not an issue from what I have read.

Does this make a little more sense?

Thanks,

Glenn
 
Blaster screamed:
Do you like to taste batteries, and sockets, and capacitors, what tastedo
you think you'd say
ARGHHHHHHHH!
knda bitter and acrid, and tingly I guess...looking for other opinions...I
like to taste the volt watts up
Batteries may be toxic. And they would taste bad.

Thankfully, Gravity warned me of the crosspostings and of the groups
(sci.electronics doesn't exists on news.cis.dfn.de)
--
E-mail address is fake. Please reply to the group!
 
On 22 Aug 2003 20:38:49 -0700, glenn.barlow@db.com (Glenn Barlow)
wrote:

OK...don't laugh...I want to build a ghost detector to go ghost
hunting with my kids. Hence the request to build one with LEDs rather
than a panel meter. It seems that EMF detectors and Gauss meters are
both used in this type of application but what I really want to
measure is a changing magnetic field - so I really only want to
measure field strengths from 1-10 mG.

Calibration is not an issue from what I have read.

Does this make a little more sense?

Thanks,

Glenn
Well, I can't laugh *too* hard, since many years ago I
got conscripted into building something similar for a
UFO hunter. Use a big coil of wire with an iron core.
Amplify and rectify the output, and feed to one of
those bar-graph LED drivers, if you really want LEDs.
Or maybe you could use a cheap LCD meter and add
an LED illuminator if it doesn't have one.

The coil-of-wire sensor lends itself to easy experiments
with different relay coils, old auto ignition coils, etc.

I wouldn't put a lot of time into making a fancy final
product, since my guess is this will be a short-lived
adventure. My client never found any UFOs, but
at least it wasn't hard to imagine how a spinning
disk might have a magnetic field. But I am at a
complete loss about ghost theory... are they now
supposed to be electric currents swirling around
an air core?

If you find any ghosts, please let us know!





Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
Shareware from Interstellar Research
www.daqarta.com
 
Nelson Win wrote:
Hi All,

I'm looking for a circuit that will fade one LED whilst brightening
another, and then reverse the brightness periodically. I believe it
uses op amps - I saw one before but can't find it again. Any help
appreciated! Thanks.

Look for the Fading Red Eyes at Bowden's Hobby Circuits:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/homepage.htm#menu
 
uuuuu <uuuuu@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bi3o8r$ed3$1@hercules.btinternet.com...
I have the following PIC16F676 code

movlw CM2 | CM1 | CM0 ; configure comparator inputs as digital I/O
movwf CMCON ;

Is that the correct way , I mean
CM2 EQU H'0002'
CM1 EQU H'0001'
CM0 EQU H'0000'
so 2 | 1 | 0 will be just 3 which is not the same as 111 = 7 which
disables
the comparator?


;-----------------------------------
I read it as load 'W with the logical "or" of CM2, CM1, CM0'

CM2=b'00000010' ( hex or decimal -2-)
CM1=b'00000001' ( hex or decimal -1-)
CM0=b'00000000' ( hex or decimal -0-)
all "ored" together gives ...
Num=b'00000011' which equals "3" as you say

Unless ... the CM's are actually real world bits 1,2,3 but actually known in
computerese as bit 0, bit 1, bit 2, in which case

CM1= 00000100 (hex or decimal -4-)
CM2= 00000010 (hex or decimal -2-)
CM3= 00000001 (hex or decimal -1-)
________
= 00000111 (hex or decimal -7-)

In which case the result is "7"

regards
john
;-----------------------------------
 
"uuuuu" <uuuuu@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:bi5ru2$esd$1@titan.btinternet.com...
The reason they define it that way is that the bit operations take bit
numbers rather than masks. If you want to assign them separately, you
use
something like

bcf CMCON, CM1

yes, I do agree with this

movlw CM2 | CM1 | CM0 ; configure comparator inputs as digital I/O
movwf CMCON ;

so this would be wrong, right ? and yet this is straight out of pickit1
tutorial1
(debounce.asm)

Did they make a mistake ?
Yes. When translated, it works out to

movlw 2 | 1 | 0

which is, of course

movlw 3

which is not what you want at all. Thats why you were having trouble turning
off COUT...

Another poster suggested using

movlw .7

which works, but isn't as self documenting.

Regards,
Bob Monsen
 
"Voltaic" <voltaic@ou.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns93E113509F8F6Voltaic@68.12.19.6...
DaveC <dave-usenet3016@mailblocks.com> wrote in
news:0001HW.BB6D9272000AA21B0A961670@news.individual.net:
I need to run six 12 ga circuits from the breaker panel to the new
construction (4 bathrooms).

Do I need to run one 12 ga ground conductor for each of these
circuits? Or can I share a single, larger ground conductor between all
of them. For example, can I run a 10 ga (or larger?) ground conductor
and branch that to four 12 ga conductors near the load?

you dont *need* to run grounds for all 4, but, if weighted correctly, your
car doesn't *need* 4 wheels. it is imperative to run them for at least 2
reasons: 1, its a code violation not to (at least in the US). 2: if
anything ever shorts out or something like that, its always nice to know
that things are properly grounded and wont be transferring the load of
power from the short and whatever else is in-line with that one ground.

people generally rub 3 conductor romex type wire (as i think is actually a
code requirement) from the breaker panels for "normal" household watages.
which includes 2 grounds and a hot. anyway, as it is a safety issue, i
would run the grounds.
It is not a code violation to share a common ground. To use this solution
you would need to use a raceway (conduit) wiring method. If it is rigid or
EMT, you can use the raceway as the ground. If PVC or flex, then you run a
ground sized per the largest circuit being served. In this case, they are
all 20A, so a single #12 ground is all that is required from the panel. Once
these circuits begin to split to each bathroom, you need to branch the
ground too to follow each circuit keeping all conductors together.

Like Voltaic said, if using NM cable (romex), it will already have the
grounding wire included in the cable and you can't buy it without it.

--
Mark
Kent, WA
 
Mark or Sue wrote:

"Voltaic" <voltaic@ou.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns93E113509F8F6Voltaic@68.12.19.6...


DaveC <dave-usenet3016@mailblocks.com> wrote in
news:0001HW.BB6D9272000AA21B0A961670@news.individual.net:


I need to run six 12 ga circuits from the breaker panel to the new
construction (4 bathrooms).

Do I need to run one 12 ga ground conductor for each of these
circuits? Or can I share a single, larger ground conductor between all
of them. For example, can I run a 10 ga (or larger?) ground conductor
and branch that to four 12 ga conductors near the load?


you dont *need* to run grounds for all 4, but, if weighted correctly, your
car doesn't *need* 4 wheels. it is imperative to run them for at least 2
reasons: 1, its a code violation not to (at least in the US). 2: if
anything ever shorts out or something like that, its always nice to know
that things are properly grounded and wont be transferring the load of
power from the short and whatever else is in-line with that one ground.

people generally rub 3 conductor romex type wire (as i think is actually a
code requirement) from the breaker panels for "normal" household watages.
which includes 2 grounds and a hot. anyway, as it is a safety issue, i
would run the grounds.



It is not a code violation to share a common ground. To use this solution
you would need to use a raceway (conduit) wiring method. If it is rigid or
EMT, you can use the raceway as the ground. If PVC or flex, then you run a
ground sized per the largest circuit being served. In this case, they are
all 20A, so a single #12 ground is all that is required from the panel. Once
these circuits begin to split to each bathroom, you need to branch the
ground too to follow each circuit keeping all conductors together.

Like Voltaic said, if using NM cable (romex), it will already have the
grounding wire included in the cable and you can't buy it without it.

--
Mark
Kent, WA





I don't think you can use EMT conduit as a ground. The conduit
connections aren't good enough to provide the required ground. In EMT
you have to run a separate ground.

Bill Gill
 
Perry,

Seems awfully expensive. I pick up old vcr units at the town dump.
Most are functional. I use b&w lipstick cameras. These plug directly
into the "video in" connector. A 9vdc wall xformer powers the camera.

Grumpy
 
By defining the individual bits in a register you can then 'assemble' the
final value using OR statements, etc. This doesn't take any more code space,
but makes the source much more readable. It also means that you don't have
to look up the register each and every time you use it.

I've gone much further in the past... I've formed each register using bit
fields and combining them using structs and unions. This is especially
usefull where a large number of registers must be initialized before main().
Each register's bit fields are unioned with a uchar or uint name so that the
entire register can be loaded with one operation, but later individual bits
or fields can be twiddled. I've also tried this with OOP techniques.

Dana Frank Raymond

"Electromechy1" <electromechy1@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030824044245.29838.00000412@mb-m24.aol.com...
hi,
i've seen the format of 2Ś1Ś0 a few times (mostly on newsgroups and people
with
problems) but nothing in any books, why is used instead of just moving
B'xxxxx'
into the required register and use comments? this is not a jibe just
curious.

regards

shaun
 
"Amplify and rectify the output" - OK this is the bit where I profess
huge ignorance as a novice to Electronics. How do I do this?

Glenn
 

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