Chip with simple program for Toy

eromlignod wrote:
Mark Fergerson <mfergerson1@cox.net> wrote in message news:<3F2F7F36.70105@cox.net>...

Multiplexer as suggested by others looks simplest
parts-count wise (with sample-and-hold period/v converter to
PWM drivers?). I never heard of a 1-of-219 chip, so you may
have to learn PICs. Or, you could cascade 1/whatever's handy
and skip unused inputs.

Actually the multiplexing and PWM control isn't that bad. I use a
74F675A serial in, parallel/serial out shift register with
output-hold. Since it has a serial output, you can cascade several
together to basically get one giant shift register. With fourteen of
them in a row I can convert a serial signal to a big 224-bit word. I
connect each bit to a power transistor to control current to the
strings.
I suppose I _could_ have looked at the patent before
dribbling. :>(

I refresh this word every few milliseconds and send a series of 100
words in a continuous cycle. So if I want to control string #48, I
just put a "1" in the 48th place of the word to turn it on and a "0"
to turn it off. The duty cycle is set by which word of the cycle of
100 words that I change the bit. For example, if I want string #48 to
have a 60% duty cycle, I set bit #48 in the word to "1" in the first
word I send, then set it back to "0" on the 60th word I send. Does
this make sense?
Yes, much more so than my first interpretation which
involved selecting an input, massaging it, then selecting
the appropriate output and repeating 219 times. That may or
may not be fatal in terms of bottlenecking, but then you
don't have really fast signals to process.

Too often people come here and ask questions without
providing background. I really ought to have looked at your
patent. But no, I had to go off half-cocked. Anyway...

<snip>

It really does come out to nearly one second.
OK, OK, I was too damn lazy to look up the strings'
values and work it out; you obviously weren't. ;>)

Also, how do you cope with the slight shifts in frequency
when the key is first struck and when the little felt pad
thingies damp the strings' vibration when a key is released,
by disabling polling a specific key while it is being played?

The tuning process only occurs when you first turn on the system.
Rats. You already said that and I failed to notice.

... You
must depress the pedal (which lifts the dampers) and let the strings
sustain and warm until they are in tune (20 seconds). Then the PWM
duty cycle values are stored in memory and maintained while you play.
Ah, that makes more sense. I was afraid it was an
on-the-fly thing which seemed over the top to me. You too,
apparently. I don't s'pose high-end pianos are subjected to
wild variations in temp/humidity etc. during play now that I
think about it.

When you're done, you just turn it off. The next time you turn it on,
it tunes again. This way you get a custom tuning for the room
conditions at that moment. After the piano is tuned by hand at the
factory the sustainers sustain the strings at a specified level before
recording their value. They are again sustained at this level when
tuning in the field. In this way the tuning is identical to the hand
tuning.
Recorded in some kind of PROM I assume (not that it
matters, they're quite reliable and I'd guess your patent
isn't that specific. (No, I still haven't looked at the patent)

More dribble: BTW, what are you using as a standard
during play, an ovened crystal oscillator or what? Also,
what is it referred against, the usual tuning fork? How does
the piano "remember" the "factory-set tuning" ratios, a set
of fixed dividers off the oscillator?

The pickups are so crude that they produce basically a fundamental
sine wave with very little filtering (to get overtones requires an
expensive pickup!).
Sometimes cheaper is better!

...I Schmitt-trigger this signal to get a
fundamental square wave. Then I feed this signal to the clock input
of a one-shot counter and set the "count" number to "1". When I
trigger it, the output goes low at the first low-to-high trasition of
the input wave and then high again at the next low-to-high (to signify
that it has counted to "one"). So the output is a pulse equal to
exactly one vibration of the string.
Quite elegant.

I feed this pulse to the "gate" of another counter and a 10 MHz
oscillator to the "clock" input. Now it will count how many "ticks"
of the oscillator happen in one string vibration. I read this number
from the chip into my MPU. This is the number that is compared to the
correct one, etc.
The "correct one" part is what I was wondering about;
from what you say each piano "knows" its own tuning from the
get-go from the PROM/whatever the values are stored in at
the factory.

Do you have a "failsafe" option for when power dies?

No, you're hosed if the power dies. But then, who wants to play in
the dark?
Hrm. I was thinking more about all the strings going
slack at once and something going TWANGGG! But with high-end
pianos, I guess there aren't any "small" catastrophes.

OK, having read your description, I have one final
question; given what you want the thing to do, your
circuitry sounds just about minimalist for the job. Exactly
what part are you unhappy with, having to stack shift
registers to get the word width you need? The only
minimalizing I can imagine that'd be worthwhile would be
putting all the processing, timing, and control functions in
a PIC but you still need all those inputs/outputs.
Industrial controllers typically handle that with racks of
mux/demux but then we're back to bottlenecking. You seem to
be about as close to truly tuning all the strings in
parallel as is feasible, at least to me.

Mark L. Fergerson
 
eromlignod wrote:

The part I orignally had asked the group about was the reading of the
pickups. You can use a similar "shift register" method that I do for
the strings to address the pickups (just shift a single "1" through
the register for polling). The problem is that I need to
simultaneously disconnect the sustaining signal from the coil and
connect the signal line to the counter so that I can get a reading
(like a double-throw switch). Rather than use a lot of fancy analog
switch chips, I was hoping that there was an easier solution involving
back-to-back NPN/PNP transistors or something. I need something
cheap.
John Fields asked the critical question to determine if
4066-type analog switch chips (likely cheaper than
discretes) can handle the signals involved and have adequate
"off" resistance for isolation. If so, you're good to go.

Mark L. Fergerson
 
On 4 Aug 2003 20:11:42 -0700, ADam <adamshake@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hello!
I am trying to build a custom model rocket launch controler. The idea
behind it is that there is one main switch, then an arming toggle switch
that arms each of the 2 launch
buttons that when pressed launch one of 2 possible ignitors,
therefor launching the rocket. Here is what I have:
6x8 Project Box
1 on/off switch (main switch)
2 lighted RED LED on/off toggle switches (pins labeled +Power ACC and
GROUND)
2 momentary pushbutton switches
1 green LED
12 Volt Lantern Battery

The Idea (I am sorry, I can't draw schematics to save my life)

I flip the main switch and the green LED lights telling me
that the board is ready.
Then I can flip each of the toggles independatly, they light up
(and I would like to add a buzzer at this step, but I am afraid I
am not ready for that)
Then I want to be able to hold the push buttons and poof.


The problem I am having right now is dealing with the lighted toggles.
I can get them to light up just fine. But I am unsure which of the 3
pins on them does what. Which is just the out for the light, and
which
is the actual cicruit switch.

http://www.geocities.com/adamshake/badschematic.GIF
and
http://www.geocities.com/adamshake/frontpic.jpg

Thats a BAD schematic and a pic of the layout that maybe will
give you a clue as to my thinking.

As of right now, its A) unable to have the green LED on without the
red toggle lighting up, and nothing is getting past the momentary
switches at all.

Any help with the right way to go about this would be great!!

hi, i like your model rocket thing... but be save all the time!
some may say "dont play with highly combustible material"
but i think electric ignition is the safest thing in the world if done
right...


i see on the schematic what you made wrong.
first a led only works in one direction for the current.
second it ALWAYS needs a resistor in series with it to work.
third the LED has to be in parallel with the plus of the battery (after
switched by the main switch)
and ground of the battery.


if you don't understand this i may make a circuit diagram for you (i really
want you make this working safe).
but this may not be of interest for many so you too may wite a mail
directly to me....

your box needs to be rewired but then it will be very useable....

(i once designed one with a hand crank to generate the firing voltage and a
resistance meter which showed
you if all wires are connected and this also showed "charged" voltage)




st_news@gmx.at
 
Thanks for the reply.
Frank

Bob Myers wrote:

"Frank Pickens" <frankpickens@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:3F2AFD2A.3F9AAADF@verizon.net...
I have bought a couple of 1X16 LCD display modules (parallel driven) and

can't find from any of the
data sheets that I have located whether static is a factor with these
devices. My concern is soldering
onto the 16 pads on the circuit board. Is special handling needed with
these devices ??

They're no more - or less - sensitive than any other modern
electronic device. Unprotected, you'll be running the risk
of damaging the inputs to the on-panel driver chips. The
LCD itself is relatively immune to ESD damage, but it's
not the only thing in the package.

Bob M.
 
Mark Fergerson <mfergerson1@cox.net> wrote in message news:<3F31416C.5080002@cox.net>...
eromlignod wrote:

The part I orignally had asked the group about was the reading of the
pickups. You can use a similar "shift register" method that I do for
the strings to address the pickups (just shift a single "1" through
the register for polling). The problem is that I need to
simultaneously disconnect the sustaining signal from the coil and
connect the signal line to the counter so that I can get a reading
(like a double-throw switch). Rather than use a lot of fancy analog
switch chips, I was hoping that there was an easier solution involving
back-to-back NPN/PNP transistors or something. I need something
cheap.

John Fields asked the critical question to determine if
4066-type analog switch chips (likely cheaper than
discretes) can handle the signals involved and have adequate
"off" resistance for isolation. If so, you're good to go.

Mark L. Fergerson
In looking up the 4066 analog switch, I accidentally turned up a
CD4053 analog MUX which looks like it does what I want. It is a
3PDT-type switch, which gives me the double-throw capability. I just
wish there were more than three poles. Oh well, they are only about
$0.40 ea. and I would need about 73 of them, but that's only about
$30. I don't know if I'll ever do any better. Thanks for the help.

Don
 
Never poked my nose into model rocketry stuff, but if seperate wires fire
the ignitors then it sounds like you simply need to wire the power to the
main switch, which is connected to the arming toggle switch, which is
connected to both of the launch buttons, which are each conencted to their
associated ignitors.

Hope this helps.
Dana Raymond

"Baphomet" <fandanospam@catskill.net> wrote in message
news:vj53v73h4apn10@corp.supernews.com...
http://www.theresistor.net/

"ADam" <adamshake@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8afa0eaa.0308041911.2a077e23@posting.google.com...

I am trying to build a custom model rocket launch controler.
The idea behind it is that there is one main switch, then
an arming toggle switch that arms each of the 2 launch
buttons that when pressed launch one of 2 possible ignitors,
therefor launching the rocket. > Any help with the right way to go about
this would be great!!
 
http://www.theresistor.net/

"ADam" <adamshake@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8afa0eaa.0308041911.2a077e23@posting.google.com...

I am trying to build a custom model rocket launch controler.
The idea behind it is that there is one main switch, then
an arming toggle switch that arms each of the 2 launch
buttons that when pressed launch one of 2 possible ignitors,
therefor launching the rocket. > Any help with the right way to go about
this would be great!!
 
David Nugent wrote:
From my attachment,

[Image]
David, this is not a binaries newsgroup. You can post images to
news:alt.binaries.schematics.electronic by attaching it as a GIF, JPEG,
or other common image file. Then, post a message here giving the name
of the post. If you try to post a binary file here, most people will
never see it.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
I've had another look at the USB specs from usb.org & the cable I am
using should be working "in theory". Why it isn't in reality has me a
bit stumped.
At this point the cable in use is just a usb cable cut in half so the
specs should be upheld.

I guess I'll have to keep reading.

Gene

genejocky2000@yahoo.com (Genejocky) wrote in message news:<5b42948.0308070128.27cb9c7a@posting.google.com>...
Hey Brett,

I'm trying to keep the USB Specs in mind (what I know of them anyhow).
If there are any specifics you could throw at me I would be very happy
to run with them.
The current process has progressed this far.
- taken functional USB a to USB b cable & cut it in half.
- crimped shielded RJ45 clips/connectors to the ends of the halves.
- used a RJ45 coupler to check the cable
- checked the wiring with a continuity tester & all seem ok.

I must admit that I have tried to send data to a printer through this
cable & found that it failed.
I'm very interested to know what is reason for this failure.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

Gene

"Brett" <custserv@forums.ws> wrote in message news:<bghhvq$oqqcn$1@ID-184277.news.uni-berlin.de>...
Because a USB cable has very specific specifications which the cable you
selected may not fall within. But hey, if it works...

"Genejocky" <genejocky2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5b42948.0308011529.1f3e68b6@posting.google.com...
I hadn't tried ensuring that I used a twisted pair... totally logical
though.
Thank you Lord Garth

Ken,
Why do you say "bad Idea"?


Gene



Ken <___ken3@telia.com> wrote in message
news:<pv7kiv4micf8g3daill1etaprp3ov5u8p2@4ax.com>...
On 31 Jul 2003 23:54:14 -0700, genejocky2000@yahoo.com (Genejocky)
wrote:


I am currently running a printer via usb cable.
I'd like to opperate the printer in another room from the pc.
The total length of the cable should still fall within the maximum
length allowed for the usb specification.
The plan is to create 2 cables by cutting the current usb-A to usb-B
cable in half.
A RJ45 connector is to be attached to each "cut end" to allow the pc
to connect to the usb cable- to the rj45 connector- to the cat5e cable
behind a wall plate- to the other end of the cat5e cable/wall plate in
the other room- to a RJ45 connector- to the 2nd half of the cut
printer cable- to the printer.

Bad idea.
 
Try using a very short cable in the "RJ45" section to prove your connections
are correct.
It is easy to overlook crossed wires in RJ45 plugs and sockets.
--

John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

"Genejocky" <genejocky2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5b42948.0308080030.6873e906@posting.google.com...
I've had another look at the USB specs from usb.org & the cable I am
using should be working "in theory". Why it isn't in reality has me a
bit stumped.
At this point the cable in use is just a usb cable cut in half so the
specs should be upheld.

I guess I'll have to keep reading.

Gene

genejocky2000@yahoo.com (Genejocky) wrote in message
news:<5b42948.0308070128.27cb9c7a@posting.google.com>...
Hey Brett,

I'm trying to keep the USB Specs in mind (what I know of them anyhow).
If there are any specifics you could throw at me I would be very happy
to run with them.
The current process has progressed this far.
- taken functional USB a to USB b cable & cut it in half.
- crimped shielded RJ45 clips/connectors to the ends of the halves.
- used a RJ45 coupler to check the cable
- checked the wiring with a continuity tester & all seem ok.

I must admit that I have tried to send data to a printer through this
cable & found that it failed.
I'm very interested to know what is reason for this failure.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

Gene

"Brett" <custserv@forums.ws> wrote in message
news:<bghhvq$oqqcn$1@ID-184277.news.uni-berlin.de>...
Because a USB cable has very specific specifications which the cable
you
selected may not fall within. But hey, if it works...

"Genejocky" <genejocky2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5b42948.0308011529.1f3e68b6@posting.google.com...
I hadn't tried ensuring that I used a twisted pair... totally
logical
though.
Thank you Lord Garth

Ken,
Why do you say "bad Idea"?


Gene



Ken <___ken3@telia.com> wrote in message
news:<pv7kiv4micf8g3daill1etaprp3ov5u8p2@4ax.com>...
On 31 Jul 2003 23:54:14 -0700, genejocky2000@yahoo.com (Genejocky)
wrote:


I am currently running a printer via usb cable.
I'd like to opperate the printer in another room from the pc.
The total length of the cable should still fall within the
maximum
length allowed for the usb specification.
The plan is to create 2 cables by cutting the current usb-A to
usb-B
cable in half.
A RJ45 connector is to be attached to each "cut end" to allow
the pc
to connect to the usb cable- to the rj45 connector- to the cat5e
cable
behind a wall plate- to the other end of the cat5e cable/wall
plate in
the other room- to a RJ45 connector- to the 2nd half of the cut
printer cable- to the printer.

Bad idea.
 
The very reason UTP is a must-have for the ethernet standard, it very
often does not work with any other protocol.

Just substitute a simple (non-twisted) multi core cable in place of
the UTP, (the RJ 45 are fine, no problem), and you should see things
working.

Regards,

Anand.

genejocky2000@yahoo.com (Genejocky) wrote in message news:<5b42948.0308070128.27cb9c7a@posting.google.com>...
Hey Brett,

I'm trying to keep the USB Specs in mind (what I know of them anyhow).
If there are any specifics you could throw at me I would be very happy
to run with them.
The current process has progressed this far.
- taken functional USB a to USB b cable & cut it in half.
- crimped shielded RJ45 clips/connectors to the ends of the halves.
- used a RJ45 coupler to check the cable
- checked the wiring with a continuity tester & all seem ok.

I must admit that I have tried to send data to a printer through this
cable & found that it failed.
I'm very interested to know what is reason for this failure.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

Gene

"Brett" <custserv@forums.ws> wrote in message news:<bghhvq$oqqcn$1@ID-184277.news.uni-berlin.de>...
Because a USB cable has very specific specifications which the cable you
selected may not fall within. But hey, if it works...

"Genejocky" <genejocky2000@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5b42948.0308011529.1f3e68b6@posting.google.com...
I hadn't tried ensuring that I used a twisted pair... totally logical
though.
Thank you Lord Garth

Ken,
Why do you say "bad Idea"?


Gene



Ken <___ken3@telia.com> wrote in message
news:<pv7kiv4micf8g3daill1etaprp3ov5u8p2@4ax.com>...
On 31 Jul 2003 23:54:14 -0700, genejocky2000@yahoo.com (Genejocky)
wrote:


I am currently running a printer via usb cable.
I'd like to opperate the printer in another room from the pc.
The total length of the cable should still fall within the maximum
length allowed for the usb specification.
The plan is to create 2 cables by cutting the current usb-A to usb-B
cable in half.
A RJ45 connector is to be attached to each "cut end" to allow the pc
to connect to the usb cable- to the rj45 connector- to the cat5e cable
behind a wall plate- to the other end of the cat5e cable/wall plate in
the other room- to a RJ45 connector- to the 2nd half of the cut
printer cable- to the printer.

Bad idea.
 
genejocky2000@yahoo.com (Genejocky) wrote in message news:<5b42948.0308070128.27cb9c7a@posting.google.com>...
Hey Brett,

I'm trying to keep the USB Specs in mind (what I know of them anyhow).
If there are any specifics you could throw at me I would be very happy
to run with them.
The current process has progressed this far.
- taken functional USB a to USB b cable & cut it in half.
- crimped shielded RJ45 clips/connectors to the ends of the halves.
- used a RJ45 coupler to check the cable
- checked the wiring with a continuity tester & all seem ok.

I must admit that I have tried to send data to a printer through this
cable & found that it failed.
I'm very interested to know what is reason for this failure.

Does anyone have any suggestions??
Lack of a screen on the USB may well cause this. It's possible that
commoning-up the unused cores and connecting them to the screen at
both ends would do it. I'm still not sure why you're doing it this
way though. You can buy USB A-Male to A-female extension cables for
about the same cost as a USB cable, or buy a 5m USB cable and splice
that on the your device.

If you're trying to do more than 5m, as (I think) has been stated
earlier you _will_definately_ need an active device.

I've beeen using a USB-over-CAT5 kit (Ł225 ~ $340 I guess) for 40m +
hub and interconnects.

btw I've found that routing USB through a 4PDT switch works, although
it seems to take longer to register the device when switched in (USB
plug make power before comms, my switch doesn't).

Chris
 
Stu <stu@aaronj.com> wrote in message
news:f8da9c78.0308071348.27aed827@posting.google.com...
On a 1 hp Harbor freight cable hoist there is a 5 foot control cord
and control switch fed with 4 wires black, white, blue, and brown.
This is what is inside:




----3-----------------4----------blue
:
:
: 1-----white 2----------black
:
:
----5 6----------brown


In the UP position: 1 connects to 5
2 connects to 4 white, blue and black connected


In the down position 1 connects to 3 white and blue connected
2 connects to 6 black and brown connected

Everythig is working fine. What is going on?

BoyntonStu

Not a lot, if it's an induction motor and drawn as shown ;-)

At a guess it should be something like ...

AC AC L1=main winding
| | L2=starting winding
.--|--|-----. C1=starting capacitor
| | | |
| | | |
| | | | 3o+-------,
| | +----White------------1-+o--__ |
| | | | 5o+----, |
| | | | | |
| | C| | | |
| | C|L1 | | |
| | C| | | |
| | | | 6o+----+ |
| '--+----Black------------2-+o--__ | |
| | 4o+-+--|--'
| ,----Blue-----------------------' |
| | | |
| C| | |
| C|L2 | |
| C| | |
| | | |
| | | |
| --- C1 | |
| --- | |
| '----Brown-------------------------'
|Induction |
'Motor------'


The switch reverses the phasing of the power to the 'starting' coil.
(or vice versa the main winding)
regards
john
 
I don't think you can calculate the voltage drop of a LED.
It depends on the construction and comes from the LED manufacturer's data
sheet and is determined by the construction theniques. Super bright LEDS
have a higher forward voltage than others.
You only need to calculate a resisance to go with a particular LED and
supply voltage.

Try here http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Calculators/LED.htm
--

John G

Wot's Your Real Problem?

"bob cannetti" <vm@volcanomail.com> wrote in message
news:f6848533.0308082209.63b8dc29@posting.google.com...
I am having trouble understanding how to calculate the specific
voltage drop of an LED. Can anyone clarify this for me? Thanks so
much.
 
Well, on the LED display (8x8) it would appear that the red and black wires
are power, and the green are serial data of some sort. Also, there must be a
microprocessor or other type of controller inside the display for it to show
anything as intelligible as "no data".
A check with a multimeter should reveal that one of the green wires is
ground- that will be the common for your serial data stream. But now we are
pretty much in the dark. We don't know what format, baud rate, or anything else
that the sign expects.
You will have to make a serial interface cable that plugs into your PC or
some other source. Also, we can't easily say whether this is RS-232 or RS-485
or even 20 mA current loop. Experiment.
For the second sign- no clue. Your only hope is to find somebody who works
on these things. But it won't hurt to tinker.

Cheers!

Chip Shults
My robotics, space and CGI web page - http://home.cfl.rr.com/aichip
 
<posted and emailed>
"Christopher Bogart" <cmjb13@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<bh2qhr$tr99g$1@ID-123984.news.uni-berlin.de>...
I hope somebody here can help me in the right direction.

I bought a casino slot machine sign from ebay and it has 2 parts to it. A
top light sign and an LED display.

....
Any help is VERY appreciated.

Many thanks in advance

Chris
I know a guy who's really big in casino machines - I worked in his
shop when PAC-MAN was taking down about a mil a week. Sigh, those
were the days. Anyway, he could probably get a whole tech thingie
on the sign.

What's it worth to you? ;-)

Cheers!
Rich
 
eromlignod wrote:
Mark Fergerson <mfergerson1@cox.net> wrote in message news:<3F31416C.5080002@cox.net>...

eromlignod wrote:


The part I orignally had asked the group about was the reading of the
pickups. You can use a similar "shift register" method that I do for
the strings to address the pickups (just shift a single "1" through
the register for polling). The problem is that I need to
simultaneously disconnect the sustaining signal from the coil and
connect the signal line to the counter so that I can get a reading
(like a double-throw switch). Rather than use a lot of fancy analog
switch chips, I was hoping that there was an easier solution involving
back-to-back NPN/PNP transistors or something. I need something
cheap.

John Fields asked the critical question to determine if
4066-type analog switch chips (likely cheaper than
discretes) can handle the signals involved and have adequate
"off" resistance for isolation. If so, you're good to go.

Mark L. Fergerson


In looking up the 4066 analog switch, I accidentally turned up a
CD4053 analog MUX which looks like it does what I want. It is a
3PDT-type switch, which gives me the double-throw capability. I just
wish there were more than three poles. Oh well, they are only about
$0.40 ea. and I would need about 73 of them, but that's only about
$30. I don't know if I'll ever do any better. Thanks for the help.
Googling for "analog multiplexer" brought up these, among
others:

http://www.quadtron.com/491AMUX1-64.htm

and:

http://www.reed-electronics.com/ecnmag/index.asp?layout=article&articleid=CA44286&rid=0&rme=0&cfd=1

(might wrap)

which are 64-channels each but might be a bit over-spec'd
for your app. I'm sure somebody sells a module you can use
instead of a huge board full of chips. Do some Googling.

Mark L. Fergerson
 
On Sat, 09 Aug 2003 05:13:16 +0100, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

She had a degree

Probably in geography :)


Its August 5, 2003, so I'm 51 today!
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Happy birthday to you
Happy birthday to you
Happy birthday, dear Michael
Happy birthday to you!


--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)
nofr@sbhevre.pbzchyvax.pb.hx
 
One simple method is to "adjust" the ground lead of the 5 volt supply
regulator to 5.1 volts, then place a silicon rectifier in series to drop it 0.6
volts. Now you have 4.5 volts regulated for the lasers and 5.1 volts regulated
for the logic- that won't hurt it a bit.

Cheers!

Chip Shults
My robotics, space and CGI web page - http://home.cfl.rr.com/aichip
 
Ewan Sinclair wrote:

I've got a bunch of laser pens that I'd like to run from a fixed power
supply rather than the batteries that they came with. The thing is, their
batteries produce 4.5v, but I can only seem to find 5 volt regulators. While
they seem to be happy at 5, I'd like to pull the voltage down by 0.5v if
there is a simple way, just to be on the safe side. Are there any simple
ways for this?

Also, I'm still not too sure why you have to put a capacitor across the
output and ground terminals of the regulator, what does it do? I gather that
its voltage rating must be at least double the voltage that will pass
through it, and that the capacitance needs to be proportional to the current
you will draw.

I'm not sure how much current I wll be wanting (I want several supplies,
with various numbers of pens runing off them), it could range from
35-1000mA, so what cap value should I use?

Sorry for all the idiotic questions!

Ewan
Keep in mind that if you are using those cheap dollar store laser pointer
thingies, they are terrible designs to follow. The 4.5V figure might be too high
for the diode. I did a test once. I noticed that these pointers where pretty
bright when new and rapidly decreased. This reminded me of how regular LEDs
behave when overdriven. So I took two new pointers. One I put on a constant 20mA
supply, and the other I used as is. After 1 minute, the 20mA laser was as bright
as new, but the other one was now dimmer. These pointers are cheap crap. They
save cost by not putting a resistor in series with the batteries.
So make sure that 4.5V is correct by testing the diodes first with a constant
current, you might be surprised to see how bright the laser diodes can be if
properly driven. Same goes for the 'fake money' detector near-UV led pens. They
also just short the battery pack on the LED, and the brightness goes way down,
but the LED itself when driven correctly stays very bright.
 

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