Chip with simple program for Toy

[Peter Michelson]

I have a similar request as the original poster. I would like to use a
momentary switch to cycle among three LEDs. Is the circuit design for
this
using flip-flops complex? Is there an easier way to generate the same
functionality? It seems that there must be some ICs out there that
provide
this kind of functionality out of the box. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks a lot!
Peter

You can use an led chaser kit to do the sequental leds. You can
use just the first two outputs on the chip for flip-flop. I've
got a page below showing some tinkering with the 4017 decade
counter chip that might be useful.

http://www.geocities.com/zoomkat/RSswitcher.htm

Thanks for the ideas! Also, interesting link.
Regards,
Peter

 

[Peter Michelson]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:72r7119c5t7p6vhmqsu1vopu35v65e45br@4ax.com...

Is there a more specific term for "driver"? I am not familiar with a
component by that name.

---
The driver would be the device/circuit sending the information to the
flip-flop which would cause it to flip or flop.
---

manner. I imagine that this circuit is functionally similar to one that
would drive marquis lights, except that instead of using a timer chip, it
is
user-driven.

---
"Marquee" lights?^)
---

Indeed =) One wonders what, exactly, a "marquis light" would be.

I'll reply, tomorrow or the day after, with a schematic which will
solve your problem.

That's very kind.

 

[Terry Pinnell]

Chris W <1qazse4@cox.net> wrote:

I want a circuit that will turn a light on with the press of a momentary
switch and then turn it back off when the momentary switch is hit
again. I had heard that a flip flop might be the way to go. After some
reading, I have found that a flip flop is a much more complex device
than I was lead to believe. I think a flip flop would some how do the
job, but it is going to take some more reading before I figure out how.
If you have been reading some of my other posts, you know that I want to
turn on and off more than one light, so I need several of these
circuits, preferably using the minimum number of components.

Another option I would like to explore is to turn the light on and off
using 2 inputs. Say we have in put A and B. If input B is high, when
input A goes high, turn the light on, or leave it on. If input B is
low, when input A goes hight, turn the light off, or leave it off.

Here are three practical circuits you can experiment with:
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Toggles-Momentary.gif

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

 

Thanks very much for all the great responses!

Another twist in my scheme that I should have included in my original
post is that I'd like to read the voltage on the [shunt, hall-effect
sensor, garden gnome...] with a 10 bit resolution ADC. If the ADC
measures from 0-5V and the shunts range is 0-50 mV, then I'm thinking
that my 10 bit ADC is not going to cut it. Back to the drawing board.

Either way, ya'll have given me a lot of great ideas to work with.

-mt

 

[Fred Abse]

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 18:21:24 -0500, R.Spinks wrote:

((Va-8)/1k)-50mA - (Va / 12k) - (Va/6k) + 90mA - (Va/4k) = 0 but that
does not yield 32v

Quite true.

However, ((8-Va)/1k) -50mA - (Va / 12k) - (Va/6k) + 90mA - (Va/4k) = 0
*does* yield 32V for Va

Look at the first term: Currents are positive if they flow *into* a node.
Hence (8-Va)/1K is the correct current with reference to node "A"

I leave it to you to verify the result.



--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)

 

[Bill Bowden]

Peter Michelson wrote:

As I said, I would like to cycle among three LEDs.
To elaborate: one LED is turned on at any given time;
each time I depress the momentary switch, I would like
the LED that is on to turn off, and the next LED
in sequence to turn on;

There is a "10 stage LED sequencer" at the below address.
You will need to change the 555 oscillator into a
555 "one shot" circuit so you can use a pushbutton.
The 4017 can be used for just 3 LEDs by connecting the
reset line (pin 15) to the 4th output, (pin 7).

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page5.htm#4017-2.gif

-Bill

 

[Bill Bowden]

Peter Michelson wrote:

As I said, I would like to cycle among three LEDs.
To elaborate: one LED is turned on at any given time;
each time I depress the momentary switch, I would like
the LED that is on to turn off, and the next LED
in sequence to turn on;

There is a "10 stage LED sequencer" at the below address.
You will need to change the 555 oscillator into a
555 "one shot" circuit so you can use a pushbutton.
The 4017 can be used for just 3 LEDs by connecting the
reset line (pin 15) to the 4th output, (pin 7).

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page5.htm#4017-2.gif

-Bill

 

[Peter Michelson]

"Bill Bowden" <wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1108675337.245641.194540@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

There is a "10 stage LED sequencer" at the below address.
You will need to change the 555 oscillator into a
555 "one shot" circuit so you can use a pushbutton.

Thanks for the tip. I have used a 555 timer before, but I don't think I
ever used it as a one shot circuit, so I'd have to look that up.

The 4017 can be used for just 3 LEDs by connecting the
reset line (pin 15) to the 4th output, (pin 7).

Thanks - I think that's exactly the approach that John Fields took in his

schematic (see other posting in this thread).

 

Thanks - I think that's exactly the approach that John Fields
took in his schematic (see other posting in this thread).

Yes, except for the extra transistors which will allow
much more current for brighter LEDs. If you hook the LEDs
directly to the 4017 with a resistor, you only get 2 or 3
milliamps. The extra transistor will get you 20 mA or more.

-Bill

 

[Rich Grise]

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 16:03:54 +0000, W. Wat son wrote:
....

with another DSL organization that possibly had the customer who turned
down DSL. My ISP (earthlink) called about 6 weeks ago to tell me that I
had DSL in my area and that I would be eligible to obtain it.

Then call Earthlink. They have their own wires, or a reciprocal lease.

Good Luck!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 18:36:36 +0000, kjhkjh wrote:

I guess I should have clarified that we'll be using a dedicated mag card and
won't be writing on the mag strip on the DL itself

Well, there's certainly no reason to have to swipe either card five times!
Computers have this wonderful stuff, called "memory". ;-) Read the data in,
fill in the form, have the sucker^H^H^H^H^H^Hcustomer pick his playing
cards, and swipe the target card and write it in one swell foop.

Good Luck!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 17:33:58 +0000, Tom Horsley wrote:

That DL belongs to the State that issued it not the person it was issued to.
Adding or changing anything on it can get you in really deep do-do.

Not to mention the fact that merely having purchased a mag card
writer automatically flags you as an obvious felon intent on
credit card fraud in umpteen different databases leading to
24 hour survelance and tax audits .

Naah. Just register Republican. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:36:00 -0800, Robert Monsen wrote:
....

Meh. Multiplication. You'd need 32 buffers, and 32 pins to select them.
You need a pin per input. There are probably better ways to do this...

16X 74HC150.

or 32x 74HC244 and 2X 74HC154, depending on how you want to scan them.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich The Newsgropup Wacko]

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 04:29:13 -0800, Chris wrote:

... The KISS
principle (Keep It Safe and Simple) applies here.

Keep It Simple, Stupid!

Keep It Safe and Simple, Think It Through, Stupid!
(KISS TITS)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[mirach]

Robert

The plugs are large . The one im looking at is 4"X 1.5" and has 260
pins in it. This is pretty typical of these plugs,just a little
different configurations etc. Thanks

 

[Lord Garth]

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.02.18.21.09.13.948054@example.net...

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 18:34:29 +0000, Andrew Holme wrote:
snip

Supposedly, "SN" stands for "Silicon Network". M is usually Motorola, or
used to be.

I recall SN as the Texas Instruments prefix Rich...
http://www.interfacebus.com/logic_prefix.html

Motorolla had their 'Batwing' M

Then there's the suffix:
N for plastic (really epoxy)
J for cerdip (both halves were ceramic surrounding the lead frame)
P for ceramic (hermetically sealed types)

One could really wear off the finger tip skin by handling too many
J parts!

 

[Peter Michelson]

Yes, except for the extra transistors which will allow
much more current for brighter LEDs. If you hook the LEDs
directly to the 4017 with a resistor, you only get 2 or 3
milliamps. The extra transistor will get you 20 mA or more.

-Bill

That's helpful, since I do not yet know the operating characteristics of the
LEDs that I will want to use.
Thanks,
Peter

 

[Fred Abse]

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 18:31:08 +0000, Andrew Holme wrote:

Are you sure you have the correct patent number there? US Patent
3,636,970 appears to be for fluid flow regulator valve.

That's what I got, too, using pat2pdf.

--
Then there's duct tape ...
(Garrison Keillor)

 

[nanotech1]

OOPS sorry

http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1&Sect2=HITOFF&d=PALL&p=1&u=/netahtml/srchnum.htm&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1=3,637,970.WKU.&OS=PN/3,637,970&RS=PN/3,637,970

 

[Si Ballenger]

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 16:20:20 -0500, "Peter Michelson"
<pete77r@hotmail.com> wrote:

---
Well, in all fairness, Bill's is better than mine in that he has a
single current limiting resistor as opposed to my three. Since only
one LED will be lit at any given time, there's only a need for one and
it can be connected from the common cathodes of the LEDs to ground.

He's suggested using a 555 to debounce the switch, but my simple RC
may work just as well. Depends on the switch's bounce
characteristics.

--
John Fields

For me, there is educational value in seeing multiple approaches to the same
problem, particularly when someone explains the difference between the
various approaches, as you just did. So thank you.

Would you (or any other reader without commercial bias) please recommend an
inexpensive and reliable vendor for electronics parts for projects such as
this one? If such recommendations are not allowed on the newsgroup, please
feel free to email them to me.

The below LED chaser kit for $6.50 would give you most of what
you want. A momentary push button, a 10k resistor and a 1uf
capacitor in parallel to ground for debounce should be sufficient
for manual operation instead of from the 555 timer.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=305&item=AEC&type=store
http://www.allelectronics.com/spec/AEC.pdf