Chip with simple program for Toy

Well, he posts at Google Groups.
Report him. Suggest that they block his IP address.
If they get enough complaints, they will act.
(All this jerk does on Usenet is spam.)
groups-abuse@google.com
 
"Rob Snyder" <rsnyder@reversedthebrokenglass.com> wrote in message
news:qJ3Ad.38117$ld2.15952316@twister.nyc.rr.com...
Greetings.

What *is* this ground thing? Does current flow from the negative output to
ground? From ground to the positive? Both? Neither? What they heck am I
missing?

Thanks!

Rob Snyder
Click to expand...
I remember when I was a kid...
Behind my grandfather's TV was a bottle of Coca Cola with dirt in it and a
piece of wire
from the TV in the dirt.
I asked my father WTF? (not in those words.)
It wasn't until I started reading about "toobs" and other stuff that I
realized...
In Spanish literal translation, Ground = Earth = dirt (tierra)
So, there was a bottle of dirt connected to the TV.

Rob, you are in the right place. You got some good questins and good
answers. Keep'em comming to try to
get these kids in the NG straight and narrow. Otherwise they turn into black
matter.
 
"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:1104266639.570107.35170@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Well, he posts at Google Groups.
Report him. Suggest that they block his IP address.
If they get enough complaints, they will act.
(All this jerk does on Usenet is spam.)
groups-abuse@google.com
Click to expand...
I did!
 
On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 15:20:58 -0500, "Bill Stock" <Me7@Privacy.net>
wrote:

I've got a temperature sensor circuit which is subject to severe
condensation. What's a good protective coating? I was thinking of filling
the enclosure with silicone caulk, but I imagine some spray coating might be
better?
Click to expand...
I'd imagine whatever you seal things up with is going to effect the
temperature response of the unit. Will that be a problem?
 
B. Stock wrote:
"I've got a temperature sensor circuit which is subject to severe
condensation. What's a good protective coating? I was thinking of
filling the enclosure with silicone caulk, but I imagine some spray
coating might be better?"
____________________________________
Re;
I've used a product called "Plasticoat" which is sold in many hardware
stores. I've dipped whole circuit boards in it. It's non-conductive,
water proof, acid proof, and tough, albeit probably not flame-proof.
It, and any other coating, will affect the response time constant of any
temperature sensor and increase any self-heating effect/error.
Additionally, you'll need to derate the power dissipation of any coated,
heat dissipating components. Repairs are made difficult, if not
impossible.

-Dan Akers
 
Thanks for the help, but I'm not sure I was clear enough in my previous posts..
the two-way equipment and the car radio are _both_ inside the taxi.. the owner
listens to a mainland AM station most of the time instead of anything local..

We don't live near transmitters, and the interference is pretty constant
regardless of where the car is and whether it's moving or stationary.. the car
is also brand new so rust, etc is not an issue..

Regards,
Chris
 
"Martin" <Martin@123.com> wrote

Anyway your scaring me now. How the heck are we suppose to know how to
orient the transistors if the diagrams they give us on the packages
are
wrong ??
Click to expand...
I think it's unlikely that the diagram on the package is wrong. The
other poster was just telling you to be wary of NTE cross-refs as the
pin-outs don't always match the original part.

What happens if you ground the base when hooked up as the schematic
shows (emitter to ground)? The LED should turn off.
 
Danny T wrote:

Excuse the bad ascii, I've never used that program before!
snip
Click to expand...

Whoops, I had 6V connected to the PIC there. I guess I'm missing a
voltage regulator... Do I also need one for the motor? (motor is 3V)

--
Danny
 
Skeleton Man wrote:
Thanks for the help, but I'm not sure I was clear enough in my
previous posts.. the two-way equipment and the car radio are _both_
inside the taxi.. the owner listens to a mainland AM station most of
the time instead of anything local..

We don't live near transmitters, and the interference is pretty
constant regardless of where the car is and whether it's moving or
stationary.. the car is also brand new so rust, etc is not an issue..

Regards,
Chris
Click to expand...
OK, I see now.

So, does the taxi equipment cause interference all the time, or only when it
is transmitting?

In your original post, you said you also wanted to improve reception. Have
you tried an external mag-mount vertical on the roof?
 
Andrew Holme wrote:
<snip good stuff>
I always thought switches where +ve side, not ground. Is there a
difference?

You would need a P-channel MOSFET to do it that way around.
Click to expand...
But does it make any difference, switching +ve or ground? Is there any
reasons for doing it either way? Not just for the motor, but the
switches too?

--
Danny
 
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 09:38:09 -0600, "Martin" <Martin@123.com> wrote:

I'm a novice.

I'm trying to test NTE108 transistor.
I found a little circuit that is suppose to test transistors.
Click to expand...
Alternately, Radio Shack used to carry (some stores may still have it)
an inexpensive "junk box tester" that identifies component leads for BJT
and FET transistors, diodes, SCRs, and triacs. Catalog # 22-330.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
Unfortunately the FAQs seem to assume more knowledge than I
have, being a non-scientist.
Click to expand...

The key is to understand that you must control the current
flow through the led to keep it from burning out.
The resistor acts as a crude current regulator.

Here are some good sources:

USING LED's
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/g_knott/elect112.htm

Current limiting resistor calculator
http://metku.net/index.html?sect=view&n=1&path=mods/ledcalc/index_eng

LED Apps
http://www.plasma-ireland.com/lp/applications.html

LEDs 101
http://members.misty.com/don/ledd.html

what size LED do
I need to get approx. light of a 2xAA pocket incandescent flashlight?
Click to expand...

I'd get a catalog from a place like
http://www.hosfelt.com/
and pick some led's with the high MCD ratings.
Stay away from super duper LEDs ("Luxons") for
the time being.

As a practical matter, for these simple circuits you will need at
least
3 volts to run red or yellow leds. At least 6 volts to run white ones.

Stephen Powell

Electronic Hobby Information
Stuff that should be easy to find, but isn't
http://octopus.freeyellow.com/
 
Skeleton Man wrote:
OK, I see now.

So, does the taxi equipment cause interference all the time, or only
when it is transmitting?

From the minute it's turned on to the minute you switch it off it
interferes (doesn't matter if it's transmitting or not)
Click to expand...
The power lead could be radiating; you might one or more supression
techniques (LC filter / screening / toroidal balun / re-routing /
shortening) on that.

The interference is almost certainly in the AM band - you can verify this
using a small handlheld transistor radio inside the cab. This makes it very
hard to seperate wanted from un-wanted signals. Supression may be the only
way to go.
 
Forgot this one (I just bought 10 of these so I should have remembered
it)
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/ST%20Micro/Web%20Data/TBA820M.pdf

--
John Popelish
 
John Popelish wrote:
Forgot this one (I just bought 10 of these so I should have remembered
it)
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/ST%20Micro/Web%20Data/TBA820M.pdf
Click to expand...
--

Have a look at
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/g.knott/elect24.htm
 
"Graham Knott" wrote:
John Popelish wrote:
Forgot this one (I just bought 10 of these so I should have
remembered
it)
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/ST%20Micro/Web%20Data/TBA820M.pdf

Have a look at
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/g.knott/elect24.htm
Click to expand...
I have a question about your circuit. R2 and C3; what is their
function?
 
Have a look around:
http://members.misty.com/don/ledx.html

www.ledmuseum.org

and

www.candlepowerforums.com

For red, amber, yellow green 2 AA will be fine, blue, white, true green
need a bit more voltage.

You can just stick a red Led in a 2AA maglite and it will work,
internal resitancew of batteries stops LED getting toasted immediately,
Adam
 
From the minute it's turned on to the minute you switch it off it
interferes (doesn't matter if it's transmitting or not)

The power lead could be radiating; you might one or more supression
techniques (LC filter / screening / toroidal balun / re-routing /
shortening) on that.
Click to expand...
So put the LC filter on the 2-way power supply and the radio, or just the 2-way
?

How do I calculate input/output impedance for the filter ? (so I can find a
table listing component values)

Regards,
Chris
 
Andrew Holme wrote:

Any chance you could look at my thread "Circuit & Component Check" to
see if all looks well?

Thanks! :)

--
Danny
 
Anthony Fremont wrote:

Any chance you could look at my thread "Circuit & Component Check" to
see if all looks well?

Thanks! :)

--
Danny
 
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