Chip with simple program for Toy

[Pooh Bear]

C Roman wrote:

I've been looking at all the different kinds of connectors at molex.com.

There are tens of thousands!

I also looked at digikey.com and mouser.com - they are more complicated
to use than molex.com

I just want to know this: if I have a defective connector in my hand (a
2-pin female connector that plugs in vertically to a male connector on a
pcb), what is the process for zeroing in on the part number on molex.com?

I spent an hour and gave up. They have a search screen that allows you
to specify # of conductors, spacing of connectors, friction or positive
lock, AWG, maximum current, etc. Every combination turned up connectors
that look nothing like mine.

I can always just clip off the female connector and solder wires to the
male header pins, but I'd rather not

It helps if you're familiar with their range.

I'd advise starting with the contact pitch.

It's one area where the printed catalogue scores way better than anything
online though. Mouser and Digikey are worse than useless too.

2 pole connector - like you mention - try the KK series.

Graham

 

[Nog]

"C Roman" <csroman@cox.net> wrote in message
news0J%e.50217$8q.21465@lakeread01...

I've been looking at all the different kinds of connectors at molex.com.

There are tens of thousands!

I also looked at digikey.com and mouser.com - they are more complicated to
use than molex.com

I just want to know this: if I have a defective connector in my hand (a
2-pin female connector that plugs in vertically to a male connector on a
pcb), what is the process for zeroing in on the part number on molex.com?

I spent an hour and gave up. They have a search screen that allows you to
specify # of conductors, spacing of connectors, friction or positive lock,
AWG, maximum current, etc. Every combination turned up connectors that
look nothing like mine.

I can always just clip off the female connector and solder wires to the
male header pins, but I'd rather not

You can re-strip the wires and crimp new pins on them. You need a pin
extractor and a crimping tool. Alternatively you can replace the whole
connector with a more common one like the pros do.
There are more types of connectors than there are stars in the milky way.
Good luck! Start here: http://www.action-electronics.com/molex.htm

 

[Kitchen Man]

On Sun, 2 Oct 2005 14:08:06 -0400, "Nog" <nognog@adelphia.net> wrote:

"C Roman" <csroman@cox.net> wrote in message
news0J%e.50217$8q.21465@lakeread01...
I've been looking at all the different kinds of connectors at molex.com.

There are tens of thousands!

I also looked at digikey.com and mouser.com - they are more complicated to
use than molex.com

I just want to know this: if I have a defective connector in my hand (a
2-pin female connector that plugs in vertically to a male connector on a
pcb), what is the process for zeroing in on the part number on molex.com?

I spent an hour and gave up. They have a search screen that allows you to
specify # of conductors, spacing of connectors, friction or positive lock,
AWG, maximum current, etc. Every combination turned up connectors that
look nothing like mine.

I can always just clip off the female connector and solder wires to the
male header pins, but I'd rather not

You can re-strip the wires and crimp new pins on them. You need a pin
extractor and a crimping tool. Alternatively you can replace the whole
connector with a more common one like the pros do.
There are more types of connectors than there are stars in the milky way.
Good luck! Start here: http://www.action-electronics.com/molex.htm

If one is going to dabble in connectors, it would be useful to learn
how to make your own connections. Get a good pin crimper for a
certain type of connector that you will use often and that is readily
available in multiple pin arrays and gauges, and then the worries
about matching connectors in catalogs go away.

 

[larek]

It appears to be the one created by Dave Dilatush, with the header cut
off.

It was orginaly posted to:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&selm=3qfqhe%2411f%40ixnews2.ix.netcom.com

With its most of its problems listed.

I got this one from somewhere , can't remember where.
Can't vouch for its accuracy.. , seems to be ok.

*lm386 subcircuit model follows:

{Clipped}

.ends
*----------end of subcircuit model-----------

Cheers
Rob

This message was sent using the sci.electronics.basics web interface on
www.Electronics-Related.com

 

[Joerg]

Hello Chris,

Analog Devices makes some LDOs that are supposed to tolerate AnyCap (tm) on
the output. I've used the ADP3300 and ADP3330 and I haven't managed to
make one oscillate yet but I have not been deliberately trying. Only one
hint: If you do not use the noise reduction pin (NR) then don't hang a long
trace off the pin, just put a pad and no track.

Yes, there are some LDOs that are designed right. The fly in the
ointment with these is that they are usually at least twice as expensive
as the vanilla brand. The ADP versions are north of 70c while the TI
TPS77001 is around 35c. In most apps 70c is just too much for a
regulator. I can do it with discretes or design a little switcher for
less (which I usually do).

It's almost bizarre. If you want a part that works right you have to pay
extra.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 00:51:20 +0100, Chris Jones
<lugnut808@nospam.yahoo.com> wrote:

Joerg wrote:

Hello Jim,

Then why are many of these regulators so lousy? Is that 5pF already too
much real estate for the bean counters or is it a lack of design skills?

The 5pF WAS an extra processing step (metal-oxide-metal cap)... could
not use gate capacitance for that, due to no voltage drop at the
compensation point. So maybe it's a cost issue for the LDO people, my
chip was MIL, or maybe it IS lack of design skills ;-)

Avoiding a processing step is certainly understandable. But they didn't
even provide a couple of pins where one could connect an external cap.
Maybe that is expecting too much these days.

The real problems that mfgs don't see (usually) aren't at the circuit
designers. They can select output caps where the ESR falls into a
certain range. What they often can't control is the client hanging some
additional stuff onto the rail that comes with more decoupling caps. Or
a "smart" purchaser who hasn't read the module spec and got cajoled into
buying this wonderful new ceramic cap for three cents less. What we hear
a lot is "Yabbut it had lower ESR". The last LDO circuit even drowned
out Rush on the local AM station after that happened. A solid 2Vpp on a
heavily loaded 4.7V rail, pretty impressive.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

Analog Devices makes some LDOs that are supposed to tolerate AnyCap (tm) on
the output. I've used the ADP3300 and ADP3330 and I haven't managed to
make one oscillate yet but I have not been deliberately trying. Only one
hint: If you do not use the noise reduction pin (NR) then don't hang a long
trace off the pin, just put a pad and no track.

Chris

Aha! Bipolar! Makes it easier! My requirement was rad-hard, thus
all-CMOS.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Bob Eldred]

"amorphia" <spam.ontoast@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1129219799.091452.171820@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hi all,

I'd much appreciate any advice on my search for a cheap and simple
pressure sensor. I need to make a device which can measure how hard a
baby is squeezing a tube, around 2cm thick. I figure the best way is to
use a silicon tube, just above atmospheric pressure, and connect it via
a pneumatic tube to a pressure sensor. So what I need is a pressure
sensor that does not have to be accurate in absolute terms, but needs
to be relatively sensitive, so it can measure changes in grip strength.
I reckon if it went up to 1000 kPa that would be more than enough.
Preferably it would come with an integrated USB interface and drivers
which provided an API. Alternatively, if you know a good one but it
just outputs a voltage, perhaps you could also recommend a good cheap
and cheerful USB A to D converter?

So far the best thing I've found is this, which you can combine with
a USB interface from the same supplier:

http://store.pasco.com/pascostore/showdetl.cfm?&DID=9&Product_ID=51374&Detail=1
But I think it will only interface using their proprietary software -
it's for classroom use, after all. But this gives you a basic idea of
what I'm after.

Other solutions to the basic problem also gratefully received!

Cheers,

Ben

--
Dr. Ben Kenward
Department of Psychology
Uppsala University, Sweden
http://www.benkenward.com

1000kPa??? That's about 10 Bar or 150 PSI. What baby is going to be able to
create that pressure squeezing on a tube? You're going to have to be about
100 times more sensitive than that, say 10kPa or 1.5 PSIG (gauge pressure)
to be effective. That's about 100cm of water. Get a cheap pressure gauge and
play around with it first before you try to instrument it.
Bob

 

[Lord Garth]

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:f0oal11f92daj6deohsspojoo7i90dhtl7@4ax.com...

Hmm, Don something?


Yep, That's the one ;-)

The Guru writes very good books...

I think I have quite a few starting with the RTL Cookbook, the TTL Cookbook,
the CMOS Cookbook, the Cheap Video And Son of Cheap Video Cookbooks
and the Active Filter Cookbook.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Thu, 20 Oct 2005 18:43:24 +1300, Jasen Betts
<jasen-b@free.net.nospam.nz> put finger to keyboard and composed:

On 2005-10-19, anglomont@yahoo.com <anglomont@yahoo.com> wrote:

There is a diode bridge but cannot really tell if the
relay is on the host side though it is rated 0.5A 20V/0.1A 100V;

could the bridge be for the modems power supply?

If it's an internal modem, then the power comes from the slot. No
bridge is required. However, a bridge would be needed to correct the
polarity of the tip and ring inputs before they can provide power to
the loop current stabilisation circuit, or whatever the correct
terminology is. These diodes would be on the PC (host) side of the
relay contacts and would therefore not be the cause of the problem.

-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BF7F37830000FABBF04075B0@news.readfreenews.net...

Thus spake Hugh Prescott:

No code book in front of me tonight but I think your conduit is too small
for four # 1 wires for normal power feeds. It's not just wire size that
counts you have to consider current in conductor and heating.

Four 90 degree bends (electricial sweeps) are the limit I think.

Do you need to use lubricant to pull, If I am helping you will use
lubricant, if you pull it's your choice.

I would use a steel cable as a fish tape and a comealong to pull it.

I ended up using 2 90 degree sweeps and two inspection boxes (90's as
well).
Used fish tape to pull nylon rope which was used to pull the wires.

Man, is it hard work. It's not a big job, but no come-along, just two
inexperienced guys huffing and puffing.

An inspection box is an asymmetric item. Pulling the wires into the box in
the longitudinal direction was relatively easy; feeding them back into the
"exit" that is 90 degrees to the body was problematic (especially the last
18
inches, or so). How does one do that last bit of wire so that you don't
end
up with a twisted knot of wires that won't fit in the box?

1-1/2 EMT is sufficient for four (one is ground) #1 conductors (NEC tables
referenced).

Thanks for all your help, guys. Mission accomplished.
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

Start at the point where the cables come out of the pull box and

"straighten' them going along towards the exit of the box. Towards the end
of the pull if you have twists (common) you can feed the the "crossovers"
into the conduit in the last few inches od cable, so it is easier to lay the
last section of cable in. What it comes down to is taking care to try and
feed the cables in without "crossovers". The extra time spent in tidying up
the cables and laying them out in one long loop is repayed by the ease of
installation.

--
Regards ......... Rheilly Phoull

 

[Andy Baxter]

Jasen Betts said:

put a wireless system in.


Why? It was working perfectly well before it broke, and the signal wire is
still in place. (If it's damaged we can use a different set of wires, or
install a new one which they have anyway). so as far as I can see there's
no need to rebuild the whole thing, which is adding extra complications
and costing them a lot in parts at the same time.

Next time a lightning bolt strikes that hilltop,a wireless
system will survive a whole lot better than the wired system.
(especially if the aerial is mounted low) fibre-optic is another
option.

don't know - the highest thing around is the windmill, so that would
probably get hit, and possibly take out any electronics in the battery hut
with it. The cable is buried, so shouldn't be at risk.
Also, there's no line of sight between the windmill and the meters, so
wireless would be difficult.

it's a hill top, they get struck quite regularly.

It's not actually on top of a hill - just at a high point on the ridge of
the valley, which opens onto a flattish plain behind.

It all depends on how often you get electric storms in that area, and how
often you want to be repairing that device.

I think it was running for several years before it got hit. The thing to
look at is how much lightning protection there is built into the windmill.
The windmill mast is grounded, so should protect the cables I think, but
there's still a risk of a strike running down the generator cables into
the battery hut.

--
http://www.niftybits.ukfsn.org/

remove 'n-u-l-l' to email me. html mail or attachments will go in the spam
bin unless notified with

 or [attachment] in the subject line.

 

[Big Mouth Billy Bass]

On Sun, 23 Oct 2005 14:08:00 -0400, via
<akQ6f.44$zV1.255084@news.sisna.com>, DarkPath <Lost@patrol.net> spake
thusly:

Switch Input #1-Main Power
Switch Input #2-Underwater Light
Switch Input #3-Circulator Pump
Switch Input #4-Jet Pump
Switch Input #5-Heat Demand Signal (thermostat)

Nothing may operate until switch #1 is activated (main power).

The light swithch (#2)may then be switched on or off independently after
the main power switch is on. However, they may not operate at the same
time. If one has been previously turned on, the other will not operate.
The first motor function to occure will have priority.

That last paragraph appears to be nonsense. Do you perhaps mean to
reference inputs #3 and #4? At any rate, as your title implies, a
Karnaugh map, drawn properly, should do the trick. What was the
question again? Surely you did not intend for someone on the group to
draw the map for you? Here's a reference on how to draw a map:

http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/Projects/Labview/minimisation/karnaugh.html

 

[Tim Wescott]

DarkPath wrote:

I wants to convert my old hot tub controller, wich is currently using
relays, to more reliable TTL gates (solid state) and opto-isolators.

Well, that's a worthy goal, indeed.

Design and build a logic circuit that will replace the control function
of the relay controller.

How cleverly you make this sound like a homework problem.

The all solid-state circuitry would have to
operate the following functions:

Switch Input #1-Main Power
Switch Input #2-Underwater Light
Switch Input #3-Circulator Pump
Switch Input #4-Jet Pump
Switch Input #5-Heat Demand Signal (thermostat)

Nothing may operate until switch #1 is activated (main power).

The light swithch (#2)may then be switched on or off independently after
the main power switch is on. However, they may not operate at the same
time. If one has been previously turned on, the other will not operate.

Why? That sounds like a dumb feature, but a good one to add complexity
to a homework problem. I'd want the underwater lights to be completely
independent of the heat/circulation control, and possibly even the main
power.

The first motor function to occur will have priority.

Once again a dumb-sounding feature. Wouldn't it be nicer to have the
jet pump be on user demand, and the circulator only go on if the
heater's running but not the jet pump?

If switch #5 (heat demand) is activated, water must be moving through
the system, therefore if the water is stagnant, the circulator must
start automatically. If the circulator or jet pump is already running
when the heat demand is activated, no other function needs to take place.

Please reply via usenet. My header is a spam trap

* You don't need to use a Karnaugh map to do this unless you want
to -- unless it's a homework problem. Simply reverse engineering
the relay logic, or using solid-state relays may be better.

* What's the make and model of your hot-tub controller?

* Here's what you do:

* Figure out how many internal states you have.
* List all your inputs and "starting" internal states in
columns on the left of your page
* List all your outputs and "ending" internal states in
columns on the right of your page
* Since you're dealing with an asynchronous system, append
two columns for each state with the necessary 'S' and 'R'
signals for your favorite S-R flip-flops.
* Enumerate all possible inputs and internal states. Use gray
code, it'll make generating the maps easier.
* For each output, 'S' and 'R' signal make a Karnaugh map.
If you don't know how just refer to your textbook or do
a web search.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2005-10-23, Andy Baxter <news4@earthsong.null.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

Jasen Betts said:

put a wireless system in.


Why? It was working perfectly well before it broke, and the signal wire is
still in place. (If it's damaged we can use a different set of wires, or
install a new one which they have anyway). so as far as I can see there's
no need to rebuild the whole thing, which is adding extra complications
and costing them a lot in parts at the same time.

Next time a lightning bolt strikes that hilltop,a wireless
system will survive a whole lot better than the wired system.
(especially if the aerial is mounted low) fibre-optic is another
option.

don't know - the highest thing around is the windmill, so that would
probably get hit, and possibly take out any electronics in the battery hut
with it. The cable is buried, so shouldn't be at risk.
Also, there's no line of sight between the windmill and the meters, so
wireless would be difficult

if it has a lower resistance than the earth surrounding it it will be at risk.
unless it is inside a metal conduit. and even then it'll be at risk if the
meter unit is grounded,

it's a hill top, they get struck quite regularly.

It's not actually on top of a hill - just at a high point on the ridge of
the valley, which opens onto a flattish plain behind.

It all depends on how often you get electric storms in that area, and how
often you want to be repairing that device.

I think it was running for several years before it got hit. The thing to
look at is how much lightning protection there is built into the windmill.
The windmill mast is grounded, so should protect the cables I think, but
there's still a risk of a strike running down the generator cables into
the battery hut.

the current thats in a lightning strike needs to disipate across the surface
of the ground from the point of impact. buried conductors are very
attrcative for this purpose.

I've had serial ports (well the 1488/1489 chips atleast) destroyed in electrical
storms even though the closest strike was half a mile away and all the phone
cables are underground.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Terry Pinnell]

"Chris" <cfoley1064@yahoo.com> wrote:

ErikBaluba wrote:
I have googled for freeware win32 software to make ASCII circuit diagrams,
but I can't seem to find such a ting.
Are there any good ones?

erik

Andy´s ASCII-Circuit

www.tech-chat.de

And PyAscii www.fidalqo.net

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:dvp7m19o34sf55eteejdjp7cbt3v204fcn@4ax.com...

On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 20:24:12 GMT, "Captain Blammo"
eas6@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

I'm trying to put together a protective device for the hotshoe on my
digital
camera. All that triggering an external flash requires is connecting its
two
terminals together through the camera, but most digicams will fry if
exposed
to more than 6v fed down the line by the flash unit.

I'm thinking that one or two AA batteries and a relay connected to the
camera would be just fine to protect against overvoltage, but the relay
needs to operate as close to instantly as possible and be able to pass
voltages from, say, 3 to 1000v on the flash unit side with no ill effect.

---
Yow!!! Where's that 1000V coming from? Surely the flash unit
doesn't expect the camera to discharge its (the flash unit's) caps
through the hot shoe and hold that voltage off until it's flash
time.

Also, if you want to fire a relay from the hot shoe you need to know
how much current for how long a time the hot shoe can handle.

Basically, you need to look at the spec's for the camera and the
flash unit and, if you can't figure out how to hook them up with
that documentation in hand, post the spec's and we'll tell you how
to do it.
---

I had a look in the digikey catalogue, and just ended up getting confused
by
the vast array of relays and mystery variables listed with them. Since
I'll
be staking the life of the irreplaceably expensive camera on this, I was
wondering if someone could do me a huge favour and recommend the
appropriate
part.

---
Since you can't figure out the "mystery variables" of the relays and
the camera is "irreplaceably expensive", we'd (me anyway) be
irresposible if we were to make a suggestion without getting more
data. Do you have data sheets for the camera and the flash unit?

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

I was thinkin that most flash units use thyristors anyway ?

--
Regards ......... Rheilly Phoull

 

[Andrew Holme]

gigabite1123@hotmail.com wrote:

Alright... any help would be GLADLY appreciated... I'm trying to figure
out how to decide what diodes and transistors to use in projects...
what factors do I need to look at to make these decisions. thanks

Just a few:

Speed
Junction capacitance
Gain
Power dissipation capability
Current handling capacity
Junction breakdown voltages
Physical size
Price / availability

Some are more important than others - depending on the application.

 

[kell]

erik

Andy´s ASCII-Circuit

www.tech-chat.de


And PyAscii www.fidalqo.net

I tried www.fidalqo.net and got an error. Is the site down?

Does Andy have an English version of his web site?

 

[kell]

chriswilliams wrote:

Hi all:

I would like to make some easy experiments
with operational amplifiers.

Where to find easy experiments or circuits
(not theory) with operational amplifiers.

Thanks in advance
www.play-hookey.com has a section on op-amps

 

[Bob Masta]

On 29 Oct 2005 15:13:57 GMT, Bubba <nickname@hcp.hr> wrote:

Greetings to all,

I was thinking about building low-cost analog sound level meter, however,
i am not sure how to get the non electrical value of sound pressure and
transform it in electrical value. I planned to display the level with
(cascaded) LM3915s', but was wandering about ideas of how to obtain sound
pressure level in the first place.

This is a non-trivial problem. You need a calibrated microphone to do
this. Laboratory-grade "condenser" microphones which have stable
performance are very expensive ($1000) and require 200 VDC supplies
and special preamps. Instead, you can get a cheap microphone that
has a calibration curve. Panasonic electret capsules come to mind,
available from Digi-Key last time I looked. You will have to accept
that the calibration will be crude at best, and will not last
indefinitely. (Electrets lose sensitivity over time.)

Be sure to get an "omnidirectional" model, since the "unidirectional"
units generally have much poorer frequency response.

The calibration information will consist of a frequency response
curve (which for an omni electret will be pretty flat) plus a
sensitivity value. A typical listing is "-62 dB +/-3 dB (0 dB =
1V/ubar, at 1000 Hz)" For more information on how to
use this to go from volts to SPL, see "Some formulas
for working with sound" at
www.daqarta.com/uuccunit.htm#yy01
Also a general discussion of dB at:
www.daqarta.com/gg00glos.htm#gg0a

Hope this helps!



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Home of DaqGen, the FREEWARE signal generator