Chip with simple program for Toy

[Ban]

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk wrote:

This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?


Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

The voltage should be OK if it is the same kind of battery. There are
Gel-cells around, that require less voltage. So make sure the charger is for
liquid acid lead batteries. It might get more hot when charging and it will
take forever with that car battery, but it should be suitable.
--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy

 

[Steve Banks]

Alternative sugestions:

1. Walk back to your car to charge the lipos (or the lead battery)
2. Since car batteries are huge, maybe another 7ah battery will give you
enough charges.
3. How about some sort of foot pump like generator that you can pump the
small lead battery back up, or possibly a lipo directly to save a few
strokes, perhaps even while you are flying.
4. Buy more lipos and pre-charge them?

If you can shlep a battery to the pit area, then your car probably isn't
that far away and is an excellent source for 12 volts (at least here in the
states).


<junk1@davidbevan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119688798.653100.296920@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?


Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

 

[Funfly3]

buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro for
Ł17/Ł19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use

 

[John Miller]

Funfly3 wrote:

buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro for
Ł17/Ł19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use

Beware of cheap (unregulated) chargers used routinely. They will boil
your electrolyte, and generate excess hydrogen while they're at it.

--
John Miller
email domain: n4vu.com; username: jsm(@)

 

[Andrew Mawson]

<junk1@davidbevan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119688798.653100.296920@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with
the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So
same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if
I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?


Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

I OK I'll 'fess up - I don't know - WHAT'S a LIPOS ??????

AWEM

 

[colin]

"Bob Myers" <nospamplease@address.invalid> wrote in message
news:VA5ve.7657$fj.6485@news.cpqcorp.net...

"colin" <no.spam.for.me@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:2_2ve.2400$5D4.1641@newsfe4-win.ntli.net...

Dont forget any practicaly generated squarewave isnt going to need an
infinite series of sine waves to fully define it.

True, but that's just another way of saying that there are no truly
"perfect" square waves in practice, since finite limits on bandwidth
always mean that you can never get to zero rise/fall time.

yes indeed you dont get those nasty little discontinuities wich cuase the
ringing as someone mentioned. its also the squarenss of the corners wich
are never perfectly square.

a squarewave isnt necessarily made up of sinewaves its just very useful
indeed to be able to consider it as a series of sinewaves.

No, it really, really is. Any periodic signal IS composed of sinusoidal
components; the frequency domain (i.e., what you see on the screen of
a spectrum analyzer) is just as valid as the time domain (which is what
you
see on the screen of an oscilloscope).

ah, I meant made up as in 'constructed from'. (ie adding together
individualy generated sinewaves). wich is what i thought the OP was getting
confused about, if you look at an oscillator (such as LC or crystal rather
than relaxation type) generaly it will start off producing a fairly pure
sinewave that builds up in amplitude, when the amplitude exceeds the supply
rails it will be clipped, and hence the top and bottom 'round part' will be
removed. so the harmonics arise from the bits that are missing from what
would otherwise be a very large sinewave.

You have to be carefull, if you look at the spectrum of a squarewave thats
been through an all pass filter wich adds 90' phase shifts above a certain
frequency it will be different on an oscilloscope although it has the same
ampliitude of harmonics, so it will look the same on a spectrum analyser
unless its a digital one wich displays phase too, but phase information on a
FFT display can sometimes be eratic.

Basicaly I was just trying to say its valid to work in only time domain
completly if you need too, wich might be the case if your looking at a
digital waveform, however even with digital waveforms you will often need to
consider the frequency domain too, especialy if its the loop of a PLL for
instance, or the effects of the highest harmonics on crosstalk, power supply
decoupling reactance, emi etc.

If your working with RF then you would normaly only think in terms of the
frequency domain.

Its good to have the fexibilty to think in either one or the other or both
at the same time.

Colin =^.^=

 

[Bob Masta]

On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 01:35:44 GMT, Charles Jean
<alchemcj@earthlink.net> wrote:


<snip>

If I were
to see what looks like a very low distortion sine wave on the oscope,
I can infer that this is a "true sine" wave, with very little
contribution from any higher harmonics, and not some weird lucky mix
of higher sin/cos frequencies that are significant compared to the
fundamental? Or would the use of a spectrum analyzer be required to be
sure?

The trick part of your question is "looks like a very low distortion
sine wave on the scope". I have found that it is very difficult to
judge distortion from a scope trace, below a few percent. And
certain distortion combinations can be even harder to detect
visually, maybe up to 10% or so, if all they do is fatten the
sine wave a bit. So you definitely need a spectrum analyzer to
know about low distortion levels.

But in truth there is nothing in the spectrum that is not
in the waveform. In theory, you could have a *really*
large-screen high-resolution scope face and an overlay
of a perfect sine wave to match up with, and you could
detect distortion down to as low a level as you want.
Just not very practical!

Best regards,



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Home of DaqGen, the FREEWARE signal generator

 

[Funfly3]

"Andrew Mawson" <andrew@no_spam_please_mawson.org.uk> wrote in message
news:d9jkh0$g7e$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119688798.653100.296920@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with
the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So
same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if
I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?


Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk


I OK I'll 'fess up - I don't know - WHAT'S a LIPOS ??????

AWEM


Lithium Polymer or LiPo for short at the moment these are the way forward

for a lot of electric flying my 11.1v 2600mah LiPo weighs 140 grams, my 9.6v
2400mah NiCd pack weighs 500 grams, LiPo have a much greater charge density
than normal packs or in other words are lighter and smaller for the same
capacity

 

[Funfly3]

"John Miller" <me2@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:d9jhq2$5ge$2@n4vu2.n4vu.com...

Funfly3 wrote:
buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro
for
Ł17/Ł19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use

Beware of cheap (unregulated) chargers used routinely. They will boil
your electrolyte, and generate excess hydrogen while they're at it.

--
John Miller
email domain: n4vu.com; username: jsm(@)
What's the price of a regulated charger that will charge a car battery

routinely??? a 10AH charger is around Ł45 so a 50AH is going to be a lot
more and the battery has a 3 year warranty all for Ł17 cook it then take it
back

 

[Poxy]

Funfly3 wrote:

"Andrew Mawson" <andrew@no_spam_please_mawson.org.uk> wrote in message
news:d9jkh0$g7e$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119688798.653100.296920@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with
the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So
same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if
I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?


Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk


I OK I'll 'fess up - I don't know - WHAT'S a LIPOS ??????

AWEM


Lithium Polymer or LiPo for short at the moment these are the way
forward for a lot of electric flying my 11.1v 2600mah LiPo weighs 140
grams, my 9.6v 2400mah NiCd pack weighs 500 grams, LiPo have a much
greater charge density than normal packs or in other words are
lighter and smaller for the same capacity

And they have an unfortunate propensity to spontaneously burn up SUVs.

Exhibit A:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140641

 

[Doug McLaren]

In article <jNdve.3863$oJ.2722@news-server.bigpond.net.au>,
Poxy <pox@poxymail.com> wrote:
....
| > Lithium Polymer or LiPo for short at the moment these are the way
| > forward for a lot of electric flying my 11.1v 2600mah LiPo weighs 140
| > grams, my 9.6v 2400mah NiCd pack weighs 500 grams, LiPo have a much
| > greater charge density than normal packs or in other words are
| > lighter and smaller for the same capacity
|
| And they have an unfortunate propensity to spontaneously burn up SUVs.

And if you'll read the description of the story you linked to, they
didn't `spontaneously' burn up that SUV. The pack was damaged --
that's hardly spontaneous, even if it was slightly delayed.

And to be fair, NiCd batteries can cause fires too when damaged.

Yes, LiPos do require that some care be taken with them, and if you
fail to take proper care of them they can catch fire. But 1) under
the right (wrong) conditions, other batteries can cause fires/catch
fire too, and 2) they're not the sticks of unstable dynamite that
people seem to make them out to be.

| Exhibit A:
| http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140641

--
Doug McLaren, dougmc@frenzy.com
She gave me a look you could have poured on pancakes.

 

[hermit50]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:42BCCE90.5F683F32@earthlink.net...

"thomson.eric@gmail.com" wrote:

Rich,

You obviously put much too much faith in institutions of higher
education! This group needs a FAQ, as it seems every day someone comes
with a "Hey, can you help me get started in electronics?" query.

We should have a list of books for beginners who are interested in
practical stuff (breadboard etc) and theoretical stuff (basic physics).

Eric


Any books to suggest? I am willing to write and maintain a FAQ, but
no one can seem to agree on what they want in it.

--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida


Hi all

I'm a newbie to electronics. A book I'm reading at the moment, which I purchased
from http://www.maplin.co.uk/ is as follows:

Title: Starting Electronics, (Second edition).
Author: Keith Brindley
ISBN: 0 - 7506 - 4435 - 4

The author uses breadboards to build, and explain, various circuits.

Also, I found the following websites, which I find to be very helpful in
explaining some basic stuff that might be of interest to other newbies:

http://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/intro/electron.htm

http://www.amasci.com/miscon/whatis.html


HTH

hermit50

 

[Tim Auton]

"Funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"John Miller" <me2@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:d9jhq2$5ge$2@n4vu2.n4vu.com...
Funfly3 wrote:
buy a cheap car charger from a car shop and buy a car battery from Macro
for
Ł17/Ł19 and its got 3 a year guarantee that's what I use

Beware of cheap (unregulated) chargers used routinely. They will boil
your electrolyte, and generate excess hydrogen while they're at it.

What's the price of a regulated charger that will charge a car battery
routinely??? a 10AH charger is around Ł45 so a 50AH is going to be a lot
more and the battery has a 3 year warranty all for Ł17 cook it then take it
back

You're getting Amps and Amp-hours confused. A 10A charger can charge a
100Ah battery.


Tim
--
Don't tell me I'm still on that feckin' island!

 

[Tim Auton]

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk wrote:

This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

Is this for charging in the field or at home?

If it's for use at home, get a 13.8V (or 12V) power supply. I've got
the Pro Peak 20A one. Ł35 and it's got more than enough oomph for
everything I need. I've not seen another PSU with similar capacity
anywhere near the price, except in a PC of course

http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/Pro+Peak+Power+supply-5167.htm

If it's for the field I wouldn't get a car battery. Decide how many
charges you want, then buy cyclic or deep-discharge rated SLA of
appropriate capacity. Do you really need 30 charges out of a field
battery? Lugging a car battery around is no fun, if you drop it acid
pours out and they aren't rated for deep-discharge cyclic use so you'd
be lucky if it lasts a year.

A cyclic-rated SLA will give you over 500 genuine cycles, which is
several years of flying for most of us.


Tim
--
Don't tell me I'm still on that feckin' island!

 

[Jim Slaughter]

Buy a small tractor battery. They're about $18 at your local auto parts
store. Buy a cheap auto battery charger for it. You should be able to get
one in the $20-30 range. I have two tractor batteries. (They're not very
heavy) I keep 'em both charged.

Of course the simplest solution is to use your CAR BATTERY to charge your
lipos! That's what I do when I'm at the field.

A final solution is to buy a 12V power source to use your li-po charger in
the house!

The little gel cells just don't have enough amp hours to last long.


<junk1@davidbevan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119688798.653100.296920@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

This may sound a bit of a silly question, but currently I use one of
the small 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid batteries to charge my lipos with
(via a lipo charger) - but I only get about 3 charges before the 12V
has dropped too far.

...so the obvious solution is to buy a 12v car battery (about 70Ah).

The question is; will I be able to charge the 12V car battery with the
same charger that I use to charge the 12V sealed lead acid?

As I understand it a car battery is just a lead acid battery? So same
technology and same voltage just higher Ah. Will I blow myself up if I
use the small 12v lead acid charger on the big 12v car batt?


Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

 

[Jim Slaughter]

You'll quickly ruin the car battery if you charge it constantly. You need to
charge it and then put it on a trickle charger if that's what you want to
do.

<junk1@davidbevan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119712277.943094.238960@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I think its one of these...

http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/detail.php?JPNO=5510050&activepage=1&Navmain=Batteries/Chargers&subcatname=Lead%20acid%20-%20gel%20cells

...the output from my charger is 12V/450mA so I guess it would take
100h to fully charge a flat /70Ah car battery?

Is it safe to charge a car battery unattended? I usually just leave my
current 12V on charge permenantly in the garage and just take it off
charge to go flying. I always supervise LiPos when I charge them, but
they only take 1h, I dont really fancy baby sitting a 12V car battery
for 100h!

Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk

 

[colin]

"Doug McLaren" <dougmc@frenzy.com> wrote in message
news:Gaeve.85367$PR6.41949@tornado.texas.rr.com...

In article <jNdve.3863$oJ.2722@news-server.bigpond.net.au>,
Poxy <pox@poxymail.com> wrote:
...
| > Lithium Polymer or LiPo for short at the moment these are the way
| > forward for a lot of electric flying my 11.1v 2600mah LiPo weighs 140
| > grams, my 9.6v 2400mah NiCd pack weighs 500 grams, LiPo have a much
| > greater charge density than normal packs or in other words are
| > lighter and smaller for the same capacity
|
| And they have an unfortunate propensity to spontaneously burn up SUVs.

And if you'll read the description of the story you linked to, they
didn't `spontaneously' burn up that SUV. The pack was damaged --
that's hardly spontaneous, even if it was slightly delayed.

And to be fair, NiCd batteries can cause fires too when damaged.

Yes, LiPos do require that some care be taken with them, and if you
fail to take proper care of them they can catch fire. But 1) under
the right (wrong) conditions, other batteries can cause fires/catch
fire too, and 2) they're not the sticks of unstable dynamite that
people seem to make them out to be.

| Exhibit A:
| http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140641

lead acid batteries can go with a hell of a bang too if they generate enough
hydrogen gas wich then gets ignited.
(like if u acidently short one out after over charging it !)

Colin =^.^=

 

[Tim Auton]

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk wrote:

Decide how many charges you want, then buy cyclic or deep-discharge rated SLA of appropriate capacity.

Is SLA short for sealed lead acid? As thats what I have got now and I
cant seem to find them over 7Ah? I am charging 1600mAh LiPo packs, and
get 2 or 3 charges before the charger refuses to charge (as input
voltage has dropped)

I guess if im realistic then I will go to the patch with 3 charged
LiPos and probably wont want more than 10 flights which will mean
7x1600mA = 11Ah - so I guess I would need a minimum of 15Ah in the 12V.
Please let me know if you can find such a battery.

Search for "sealed lead acid" on your favourite search engine and
you'll find loads of suppliers. One at random:

http://eurobatteries.com/sitepages/sla.asp


Tim
--
Don't tell me I'm still on that feckin' island!

 

[Larry Brasfield]

<cgwiita@ucla.edu> wrote in message news:1119720866.224886.118950@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I'm making a simple electronic-transmission controller for my car, but
I seemed to have run into a problem. The basic idea is to control
three solenoids with a BASIC stamp. I've got everything working like
it should, but I'm having trouble on the output circuits to the
solenoids. Here's the problem: I need to send 12v out of the control
box and to the solenoid (they are grounded internally in the
transmission) with transistor switches. I can't for the life of me
however, figure out a way to send out 12v from the controller,
controlled with the 0-5v of the Stamp pins (doesnt matter if the Stamp
needs to switch high or low). I have the 12v available to me in the
controller, so its really a matter of switching the 12v in the box to
the solenoid 3 feet away. I guess what I'm getting stumped on, is that
with everything I try to setup, theres always a voltage drop from what
I want to switch (the 12v) to the base (0 or 5v, its always lower...)

Some specs:
solenoids, 10ohm
transistor im using (NTE11)- NPN, Hfe minimum of 230, max current
capacity 5A

That is going to be hard to use for a ground referenced solenoid.

Any ideas?

View with fixed-width font.
1K
___
.-|___|-o------o +12V
| |
| |< KSB834
o-----| (or other 1A,
| |\ Hfe>30, 60V)
|/ |
IN o-| 2N3904 |
|> o------o RELAY
| |
| -
.-. ^ 1N4002
| | |
130 | | |
'-' |
| |
'-------o
|
===
GND
(created by AACircuit v1.28.4 beta 13/12/04 www.tech-chat.de)

Adjust the 130 Ohm R if you do not have 5V CMOS drive.
The drive polarity is high input to energize the solenoid.

Thanks in advance...
Welcome.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.

 

[Tom Biasi]

"Jim Slaughter" <jim@slaughter.org> wrote in message
news:O_eve.2394$Tk2.1176@trnddc02...

You'll quickly ruin the car battery if you charge it constantly. You need
to charge it and then put it on a trickle charger if that's what you want
to do.

junk1@davidbevan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119712277.943094.238960@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I think its one of these...

http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/detail.php?JPNO=5510050&activepage=1&Navmain=Batteries/Chargers&subcatname=Lead%20acid%20-%20gel%20cells

...the output from my charger is 12V/450mA so I guess it would take
100h to fully charge a flat /70Ah car battery?

Is it safe to charge a car battery unattended? I usually just leave my
current 12V on charge permenantly in the garage and just take it off
charge to go flying. I always supervise LiPos when I charge them, but
they only take 1h, I dont really fancy baby sitting a 12V car battery
for 100h!

Thanks

David Bevan
http://www.davidbevan.co.uk



Or buy a deep cycle RV or marine battery.