R
Ross Herbert
Guest
On Sun, 23 Sep 2012 19:37:35 +0000 (UTC), Anonymous
<nobody@remailer.paranoici.org> wrote:
:I'm trying to repair my MSI motherboard by replacing the caps near the
:regulators since they are bulging and are most likely defective.
:However, even at the highest setting of my soldering iron (480 degrees
:Celcius) I'm unable to liquify the solder. I don't know what kind of
:solder they're using for motherboards but it's obviously not the kind
:you can easily manipulate with common DIY tools.
:
:Anyone have a trick for solving this problem?
I tend to agree with Michael Terrell.
Unless you use at least a 45W iron you won't get enough heat into the joint to
remove the solder with conventional solder suckers or wick. Because there is no
way to get a razor saw (as someone suggested) in the space available on a MB it
is impossible to cut the leads this way. In most cases you can't cut the leads
with side cutters either, even using fine bladed types, due to lack of
clearance, so this is not an option either. One method I use quite successfully
is to keep the soldering iron tip on the underside of each pin in turn while
putting slight pressure on the same side of the upright electro. You can usually
rock the pin out by a fraction of a mm each time and after several side-to-side
rocks, heating each pin in turn, you can get both pins free. You must be careful
not to apply too much side pressure otherwise you risk stripping the thru-hole
plating. Afterwards it is a simple matter to use new solder (and/or liquid flux)
to complete the cleanout of each thru-hole with a sucker or braid.
<nobody@remailer.paranoici.org> wrote:
:I'm trying to repair my MSI motherboard by replacing the caps near the
:regulators since they are bulging and are most likely defective.
:However, even at the highest setting of my soldering iron (480 degrees
:Celcius) I'm unable to liquify the solder. I don't know what kind of
:solder they're using for motherboards but it's obviously not the kind
:you can easily manipulate with common DIY tools.
:
:Anyone have a trick for solving this problem?
I tend to agree with Michael Terrell.
Unless you use at least a 45W iron you won't get enough heat into the joint to
remove the solder with conventional solder suckers or wick. Because there is no
way to get a razor saw (as someone suggested) in the space available on a MB it
is impossible to cut the leads this way. In most cases you can't cut the leads
with side cutters either, even using fine bladed types, due to lack of
clearance, so this is not an option either. One method I use quite successfully
is to keep the soldering iron tip on the underside of each pin in turn while
putting slight pressure on the same side of the upright electro. You can usually
rock the pin out by a fraction of a mm each time and after several side-to-side
rocks, heating each pin in turn, you can get both pins free. You must be careful
not to apply too much side pressure otherwise you risk stripping the thru-hole
plating. Afterwards it is a simple matter to use new solder (and/or liquid flux)
to complete the cleanout of each thru-hole with a sucker or braid.