Big connectors, Small wires

Searcher7 wrote:
Any recommendations for crimpers for the 16-14 gauge range of lugs?

Go to the local Auto Parts joint. (Kragen, Pep Boys, etc.)

Cheers!
Rich
 
Rich Webb wrote:
A general rule of thumb is that if you have to ask, then you should not
do it. Get the right size terminals or another spool of wire.

Oh, feh! That's what s.e.basics is for!

Cheers!
Rich
 
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:44:15 -0700 (PDT), Mint
<chocolatemint77581@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Mar 21, 9:35 pm, Searcher7 <Search...@mail.con2.com> wrote:
I have tons of terminals for wire gauges around 16-14. But the wired I
use is 22-18.

Is folding the wire before crimping recommended?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I have done that a lot and I always solder them too.

Crimps can slip, even when using the right size.
.... but not if they're done properly. There are specs for a minimum
pull-out force (see, e.g., www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/TM-638000029.pdf)
which will be less for smaller gauge wires, of course. But a slip, which
I'd interpret as pulling out easily with just a tug? Nope. And, as
others have mentioned, solder added to a stranded crimp produces a
stress concentration zone that reduces the overall reliability of the
connection.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
Mint wrote:
On Mar 21, 9:35 pm, Searcher7 <Search...@mail.con2.com> wrote:
I have tons of terminals for wire gauges around 16-14. But the wired I
use is 22-18.

Is folding the wire before crimping recommended?

I have done that a lot and I always solder them too.

Crimps can slip, even when using the right size.

They _can_, but if the crimp is done right, they seldom do.

Cheers!
Rich
 
Rich Webb wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:44:15 -0700 (PDT), Mint
On Mar 21, 9:35 pm, Searcher7 <Search...@mail.con2.com> wrote:
I have tons of terminals for wire gauges around 16-14. But the wired I
use is 22-18.

Is folding the wire before crimping recommended?

I have done that a lot and I always solder them too.

Crimps can slip, even when using the right size.

... but not if they're done properly. There are specs for a minimum
pull-out force (see, e.g., www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/TM-638000029.pdf)
which will be less for smaller gauge wires, of course. But a slip, which
I'd interpret as pulling out easily with just a tug? Nope. And, as
others have mentioned, solder added to a stranded crimp produces a
stress concentration zone that reduces the overall reliability of the
connection.

But a crimp _can_ work with stranded wire, if you use the right
size terminal for the wire, and, as always, do the crimp right.

I once worked at a battery charger manufacturer, and they routinely
used #8 AWG stranded with MONGO lugs, and after the lugs were crimped,
they dipped them in a solder pot, but that was AFTER they got the
proper crimp; it was more like just tinning the joint to deter
corrosion.

Did I say it was after crimping? ;-)

Cheers!
Rich
 
On Mar 21, 9:35 pm, Searcher7 <Search...@mail.con2.com> wrote:
I have tons of terminals for wire gauges around 16-14. But the wired I
use is 22-18.

Is folding the wire before crimping recommended?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
I have done that a lot and I always solder them too.

Crimps can slip, even when using the right size.

Andy
 
On Mar 24, 8:41 pm, Rich Grise <ri...@example.net.invalid> wrote:
Searcher7wrote:
On Mar 24, 4:10 am, Rich Grise <ri...@example.net.invalid> wrote:
Searcher7wrote:
On Mar 22, 5:00 pm, Rich Grise <ri...@example.net.invalid> wrote:
Searcher7wrote:
I have tons of terminals for wire gauges around 16-14. But the wired
I use is 22-18.

Is folding the wire before crimping recommended?

It's not "recommended," but if you use care, and your terminals have
either that plastic thing, or you use heat-shrink, it should be no
problem. Been there, done that, and all I got was this lousy T-shirt.
;-)

They do have the vinyl sheath.

http://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/index~text~TP14-8~path~product~pa.......

(Too bad the box doesn't tell you what kind of crimpers to use. The
ones I have for the 22g, 20g, and 18g wires don't want to work on
these lugs).

I don't remember who posted it a couple of posts upthread, but somebody
found some ferrules, which would have been my first choice, but I got
tired of googling them. It's basically a 22-18 sleeve with a $14 pin on

                                               Ahem ----------> #14>> the other end. That would be the "professional" way to do it, which would
definitely be recommended if it's a production job. But then again, you'd
have to buy more parts; I fear you're faced with a judgement call. =:-O

That wouldn't work for this.

I'm using terminal blocks because the idea is to keep all possible
stress off of the leads that are permanently soldered to the screwed
down PCB. That is why those leads will run to a screwed down terminal
block.

On the other side of that terminal block the leads can be easily
switched and swapped at will without worry.

The thing is, you crimp the ferrule onto the wire, then crimp the pin
half of the ferrule onto your fat terminals. Of course, you'd need
enough clearance between the block and the ass-end of the now longer
terminal/ferrule assembly.

But if it's going to be a mostly-permanent installation, I'd just
go ahead and double (or even triple, like a squashed 'S') the wires.

Cheers!
Rich

Cheers!
Rich
From what I can tell it is easier and cheaper to just go with what I
have.

In fact, I just picked up some spade connectors:
http://picclick.com/1000-PCS-NTM-NICHIFU-22-16-220675738499.html

So I can stick with the proper sized connectors and use the larger
lugs for something else.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 

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