Best Phillips Screwdrivers?

[whit3rd]

On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 11:20:30 AM UTC-8, David Billington wrote:

On 26/12/16 19:12, Michael Black wrote:
On Mon, 26 Dec 2016, Doug White wrote:

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast.

Isn't the issue that there is some Japanese variant of the Phillips
screw, called something else, so while nominally a Phillips fits it,
it's not really a match?

Are you thinking of a pozidrive screw, if so a Phillips screwdriver
shouldn't be used.

Alas, it's not that simple. Pozidrive is licensed by Phillips just like Phillips is,
the Japanese use JIS standards instead.

Frearson (aka Reed and Prince) is a fourth standard; that one, rarely slips
and doesn't have multiple sizes with different shapes. It's rare, though.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 19:04:21 GMT, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>
wrote:

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast.

I use mostly Craftsman (Sears) screwdrivers.
<https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/711LQSOTfOL._SL1000_.jpg>
My main driver is a #2 Philips with a long 8" shaft. It fits most
appliances, computers, automotive, and consumer electronics devices.
For small screws, I use a #1 but those are rare.

I was taught to test rotate the screwdriver in the Philips screw head
before applying torque. If the driver is loose, or sloppy, don't use
it or you'll wreck the head, the driver, or both. It should be a good
tight fit, or you'll need to find the correct Philips-like driver. For
those, I have a collection of various Philips-like drivers (Posidriv,
Supadriv, Reed and Prince (Fearson), Sel-o-Fit, B.N.A.E, Lotus head,
Japan Industrial Standard (JIS), French Recess, ACR Philips, Philips
Square-Driv mix, Philips II, etc.
<http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/?ALLSTEPS>

Note: If you use an electric or pneumatic screwdriver, plan on
trashing screw heads and bits. I've found that I can effectively use
an electric screwdriver to remove screws, but even with a clutch, I
would strip heads and break tips when tightening screws.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 02:26:16 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
<presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

In rec.crafts.metalworking Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

One problem is that the #1 tip is very pointy, and I think it is
bottoming out on some screws, which increases its tendency to slip.
This accellerates the damage & makes it more likely to slip the next
time. The #2 tip is definitely rounded and no where near as pointy.
The #0 seems to have a some of the same issue, but not as pronounced.

I'm going to have to replace the #1's (and may get another #0 as well),
and was wondering if folks have a favorite brand that grips screws well
and holds up better. I've had good luck with Wiha drivers in the past,
but mostly for smaller stuff (jeweller's screwdriver size).

I'm with you on the black Xcelites. They're good, unless you're dealing
with shitty screws, which they cam out of.

There's no way in hell any vacuum cleaner is going to be made with JIS or
Pozidrive screws. Cheap, soft, poorly formed screws? You bet.

Soft shitty poorly formed JIS screws also exist - in cheap, shitty,
poorly made Japanese vacuums. Not nearly as common as they used to be
(japanese quality is generally pretty good today)

I have a feeling that the stainless steel screwdrivers from Craftsman with
the blue handles are a bit harder than usual steel drivers. If I need to
do something ugly like hammer a screwdriver into place, then torque it, I
grab one of those and they do well, and aren't silly priced. Mine were
made in the USA, but hell, they could be chinese junk now.

I've fussed with Wera "lasertip" drivers with ribbed tips that grip crappy
fasteners at trade shows, and they seemed OK. Never bought a set though.
Their website is unbearable to look at, so I've never located part numbers
and tried a tool distributor.

Wiha phillips drivers in the #1 and #2 side seem to run real small (too
narrow and too pointy), and slip out. Not impressed at all, and the #2 is
useless for standard electrical type work such as installing outlets.
Their precision drivers are good though.

For small JIS drivers, go Moody tools. They're made in the USA, and of
acceptable quality for the most part. I used these on camera gear, which
is JIS, and not phillips. You can really feel the difference. JIS drivers
on JIS screws do not feel like they want to cam out.

Never been dissapointed with a real Klein driver either. They work great.
The imitation stuff is horrible though.

 

[Larry Fisk]

"Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:XnsA6EA8F29B8B04gwhitealummitedu@69.16.179.42...

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

..
I have worked on computers and cell phones for a living for the last 20
some years. I discovered Japan Cross (JIS) drivers early on. I use these
Hozan JIS for the most part, mine are an earlier version but the steel is
good and hard and fit the screws precisely. Rarely strip one unless someone
has used a phillips on them before me. Most laptop screws have a drop of
loctite applied to them from the factory, so they are tough to start
sometimes. For my work these four sizes work for most all, but I use small
torx bits quite a bit now days too.
https://www.amazon.com/Hozn-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

 

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:37:45 GMT, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>
wrote:

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com> wrote in
news:5Bg8A.450261$122.354400@fx25.am4:


"Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:XnsA6EAAD0DCCF04gwhitealummitedu@69.16.179.42...
"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com> wrote in
news2f8A.324421$X11.268116@fx19.am4:


"Michael Black" <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1612261411400.23783@darkstar.example.org...
On Mon, 26 Dec 2016, Doug White wrote:

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite
Phillips screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I
outfitted my electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago,
and the #1 Phillips tip is already toast. I took apart a dead
stick vacuum cleaner today that had a dozen screws down in holes,
and I had to get my other #1 driver from my woodworking toolbox to
finish the job. It is also showing signs of excess wear on the
tip.

Isn't the issue that there is some Japanese variant of the Phillips
screw, called something else,

It has an alphanumeric designation.

The crosspoint head is shallower so the point of the bit bottoms out
and the side blades only half engage.

That sounds suspiciously like what I ran into today. Of course, it's
impossible to tell when they are an inch down a narrow hole.

I'll have to investigate getting a special set of drivers for small
appliance repair.

Put some engineer's blue (or correction fluid) on the end of the
screwdriver, seat it in the screw head and give it a sharp tap with
something.

You may find that the coating on the pointy tip is compacted - you
could maybe try grinding a very small bit off the pointy bit and see
if it gives you more purchase.

That may work in the future, but for now, I have two #1 Phillips screw
drivers with trashed tips I need to replace. Which brings me back to my
original question...

Doug White

The only craftsman philips drivers I ever damaged were replaced
without a question. I think it was 2 in over 40 years.

 

[Klay Anderson]

On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 12:04:23 PM UTC-7, Doug White wrote:

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast.

I learned long ago to use a "Japanese screwdriver for a Japanese screw". At length, it means use an ISO tip with ISO screws a JIS tip with a JIS screw, a Philips tip with a Philips screw, and a Pozidrive tip with a Pozidrive screw. I use Hozan for most Asian heads, Euro Stanley for Pozidrive and Xcelite for USA Philips. I have security bit tip sets for the occasional pisser-offer. Yea, I have a lot of money invested in tools as I have drawers full of brands and sizes. But it is an investment that pays. Hozan for instance make driver sets with interchangeable tips. This can save money.

Klay

 

[Cydrome Leader]

In rec.crafts.metalworking clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 02:26:16 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

In rec.crafts.metalworking Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

One problem is that the #1 tip is very pointy, and I think it is
bottoming out on some screws, which increases its tendency to slip.
This accellerates the damage & makes it more likely to slip the next
time. The #2 tip is definitely rounded and no where near as pointy.
The #0 seems to have a some of the same issue, but not as pronounced.

I'm going to have to replace the #1's (and may get another #0 as well),
and was wondering if folks have a favorite brand that grips screws well
and holds up better. I've had good luck with Wiha drivers in the past,
but mostly for smaller stuff (jeweller's screwdriver size).

I'm with you on the black Xcelites. They're good, unless you're dealing
with shitty screws, which they cam out of.

There's no way in hell any vacuum cleaner is going to be made with JIS or
Pozidrive screws. Cheap, soft, poorly formed screws? You bet.

Soft shitty poorly formed JIS screws also exist - in cheap, shitty,
poorly made Japanese vacuums. Not nearly as common as they used to be
(japanese quality is generally pretty good today)

Yeah yeah, and the OP is fixing time capsule vacuum cleaners for a museum.

There's got to be some strange dull pointed phillips "standard" in China
for bad screws.

 

[Leon Fisk]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:00:39 GMT
Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

<snip>

I'll have to investigate getting a special set of drivers for small
appliance repair.

I bought this cheapo Harbor Freight set to get the special bit for Game
Boy Dual Screens:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-screwdriver-set-with-tweezers-97517.html

Those bits aren't 1/4 inch but rather 5/32 inch. I was able to use it
with a small torx bit to get down into a deep hole that my 1/4 bits
couldn't.

Nothing special but it has already paid for itself. Figure it should
last for awhile if I only use it when necessary...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

 

[Burger Man]

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 18:54:24 -0700, "Larry Fisk" <user@live.com>
wrote:

"Doug White" <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:XnsA6EA8F29B8B04gwhitealummitedu@69.16.179.42...
For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.
.
I have worked on computers and cell phones for a living for the last 20
some years. I discovered Japan Cross (JIS) drivers early on. I use these
Hozan JIS for the most part, mine are an earlier version but the steel is
good and hard and fit the screws precisely. Rarely strip one unless someone
has used a phillips on them before me. Most laptop screws have a drop of
loctite applied to them from the factory, so they are tough to start
sometimes. For my work these four sizes work for most all, but I use small
torx bits quite a bit now days too.
https://www.amazon.com/Hozn-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

I gave up trying to exactly differentiate screw types a long time ago.
Some others came to a similar conclusion.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/hozan-jis-screwdrivers-review/
Now if a driver seems to camming too much, I just try a different
driver or when I can, resort to an impact driver (hammer type) which
is an indispensable tool sometimes, especially for old motorcycle
stuff. http://www.dansmc.com/impactdriver.jpg

 

[Jim Wilkins]

"Leon Fisk" <lfisk@no.spam.iserv.net> wrote in message
news3ts5g$hpq$1@dont-email.me...

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:00:39 GMT
Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

snip
I'll have to investigate getting a special set of drivers for small
appliance repair.

I bought this cheapo Harbor Freight set to get the special bit for
Game
Boy Dual Screens:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-screwdriver-set-with-tweezers-97517.html

Those bits aren't 1/4 inch but rather 5/32 inch. I was able to use
it
with a small torx bit to get down into a deep hole that my 1/4 bits
couldn't.

Nothing special but it has already paid for itself. Figure it should
last for awhile if I only use it when necessary...

--
Leon Fisk

I was in an RC hobby store and asked about JIC and Posidrive
screwdrivers, which they didn't carry. Maybe they don't torque the
screws in models hard enough to notice the difference?

They did have EC5 connectors and 10 AWG Silicone rubber insulated wire
to connect to a Lithium jump starter pack, so I can measure its real
Amp-Hour capacity and misuse it with other loads.
-jsw

 

[Leon Fisk]

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 13:41:12 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>

I was in an RC hobby store and asked about JIC and Posidrive
screwdrivers, which they didn't carry. Maybe they don't torque the
screws in models hard enough to notice the difference?

A lot of people think they are all "Phillips" and that some
screwdrivers just work better than others...

I always tried to take pride in my repair work. I wanted stuff to look
as good or better than when it came in. Jimmied up screw slots were not
"professional" work in my opinion.

The Game Boy I was working on was one I found along the road and had
been well used/abused. Not to mention it was in the spring and the snow
was still melting. I managed to get four of the five special headed
screws out by wedging the slot with a jewelers straight blade. The last
one broke the side off my screwdriver. Crap!

Even with the new, proper bit from HF it came out really hard. I was
surprised it didn't break the bit. It looked amazingly well inside yet.
No corrosion to speak of. The problem was corrosion on the cartridge
connector pins. Got it working and that ended my "fun" with a Dual
Screen Game Boy.

Next time I get close to one of the local hobby shops I'll have to see
what kind of odd items they have. Thanks for the tip

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

 

[Jon Elson]

Doug White wrote:

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

The problem is that Phillips is only ONE of the standards for cross-recess
screw heads. There is also Reed and Prince, ISO, Japanese and military
cross recess. The Phillips tip will generally turn these others, but is not
a good fit, and will quickly get the gripping surfaces rounded off.

Jon

 

[Pete Keillor]

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 13:41:12 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
<muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

"Leon Fisk" <lfisk@no.spam.iserv.net> wrote in message
news3ts5g$hpq$1@dont-email.me...
On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:00:39 GMT
Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

snip
I'll have to investigate getting a special set of drivers for small
appliance repair.

I bought this cheapo Harbor Freight set to get the special bit for
Game
Boy Dual Screens:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-screwdriver-set-with-tweezers-97517.html

Those bits aren't 1/4 inch but rather 5/32 inch. I was able to use
it
with a small torx bit to get down into a deep hole that my 1/4 bits
couldn't.

Nothing special but it has already paid for itself. Figure it should
last for awhile if I only use it when necessary...

--
Leon Fisk

I was in an RC hobby store and asked about JIC and Posidrive
screwdrivers, which they didn't carry. Maybe they don't torque the
screws in models hard enough to notice the difference?

They did have EC5 connectors and 10 AWG Silicone rubber insulated wire
to connect to a Lithium jump starter pack, so I can measure its real
Amp-Hour capacity and misuse it with other loads.
-jsw

That wire usually has very fine strands, so is very flexible and can
carry an extraordinary amount of current. Still not big enough for
some of the old battery powered 2 meter gliders. They used to call
those "flying welders", because if one crashed, that's what it looked
like when you shorted about 48 C sized nicad cells.

Pete Keillor

 

[Jim Wilkins]

"Leon Fisk" <lfisk@no.spam.iserv.net> wrote in message
news3udjr$tla$1@dont-email.me...

On Tue, 27 Dec 2016 13:41:12 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
.......

Next time I get close to one of the local hobby shops I'll have to
see
what kind of odd items they have. Thanks for the tip

--
Leon Fisk

Except for carbon fiber extrusions and high current battery connectors
the stock and tool selection hasn't changed much in decades. I
mentioned these low-cost meters
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Replacement-Voltmeter-Gauges/b?ie=UTF8&node=15729811
and the owner said they don't try to compete with the Internet on that
stuff.
-jsw

 

[Martin Eastburn]

This is what I have - more than just Phillips -

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/439523/wheeler-engineering-89-piece-professional-plus-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set

Flats that fit the screws - this makes slips out of the slot rare.

Martin

On 12/27/2016 8:01 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:00:39 GMT
Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

snip
I'll have to investigate getting a special set of drivers for small
appliance repair.

I bought this cheapo Harbor Freight set to get the special bit for Game
Boy Dual Screens:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-screwdriver-set-with-tweezers-97517.html

Those bits aren't 1/4 inch but rather 5/32 inch. I was able to use it
with a small torx bit to get down into a deep hole that my 1/4 bits
couldn't.

Nothing special but it has already paid for itself. Figure it should
last for awhile if I only use it when necessary...

 

[DoN. Nichols]

On 2016-12-26, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

O.K. The first thing is that the proper Phillips tip *looks*
too big fro the screw. The wings extend beyond the slots in the screw
head..

The test (with a new tip) is to put it in loosely and feel for
play ifyou gently try to rotate it with your fingertips on the shank.
If it feels a bit loose, it is too small -- go to the next size up.

Aside from this -- there are screw heads which look similar, but
are not. Reed and Prince is one such. That one has a different point
shape, too.

As for what I find better overall are long shank 1/4"
screwdriver bits without handles. They can plug into handles, or into
electric screwdrivers/torque-limiting drills, or even into small ratchet
wrenches at need. They are forged from harder metals than consumer
grade screwdrivers.

One problem is that the #1 tip is very pointy, and I think it is
bottoming out on some screws, which increases its tendency to slip.

This is because (as I mentioned above) it is likely too small
for the screw. Often (for flat-head screws) the diameter of the screw
head is barely larger than the diameter of the screwdriver shank.

Way back when, I got some screwdrivers from Snap-On, and they
were very good. The handles were a rounded triangle shape, lots of grip
for torque. Plated shank, but unplated tip. However, one of the two
from then (No. 2 Phillips and a common size straight-blade) had the
handle split in two across about the enclosed end of the shank. I don't
know whether it was something like oil attacking the plastic or what,
and they no longer make that shape of handle.

This accellerates the damage & makes it more likely to slip the next
time. The #2 tip is definitely rounded and no where near as pointy.
The #0 seems to have a some of the same issue, but not as pronounced.

And -- does the No. 2 point fit into the screws before they are
damaged?

I'm going to have to replace the #1's (and may get another #0 as well),
and was wondering if folks have a favorite brand that grips screws well
and holds up better. I've had good luck with Wiha drivers in the past,
but mostly for smaller stuff (jeweller's screwdriver size).

Wiha makes larger ones, too. But make sure that the point fits
the screw before you start to apply torque.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

 

[DoN. Nichols]

On 2016-12-26, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in news:fmmck-C67AE6.15484126122016@
46.sub-75-242-165.myvzw.com:

[ ... ]

Perhaps the suggestion to use "inserts" would do the job. I
occasionally use Phillips bits with a drill/driver, and have not had
one
go bad yet. I think the drill/driver would be more abusive than a
plain
Phillips screwdriver.

The screws I was fighting with today were down in deep holes, so there
was no way I could use an insert driver.

I've found at the local electronics parts place sets of 1/4"
hex drive screwdriver bits about 6" long. The larger ones are hex the
whole way down, but the smaller ones are turned to the proper diameter
for a normal screwdriver so they will if down those deep holes.

BTW -- when using them in a drill with torque limiting the weight of the
rill motor helps apply more axial force to the bit to keep it
irmly seated in he screw, so they do tend to last longer in
such service than you would expect.

And -- remember, the Phillips screw was *designed* to torque
out to limit the chance of wringing off a screw during
production assembly.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

The only Craftsman Philips drivers I ever damaged were replaced
without a question. I think it was 2 in over 40 years.

The last one that I exchanged was a #2. I broke the tip the first
time I used it. I was removing the cover from a computer. One of those
cheap Chinese #6, with a combo Philips/hex head. I removed it with a no
name driver that I bought from 'Bud's Place', which was Walmart's
closeout branding. I bought 100 of them for 25 cents each. I had
intended to braze some of the 1/4" hex security bits on them, but I have
never managed to wear one out.

I've never bought another Craftsman tool since then. That was about
20 years ago.



--
Never piss off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Doug White wrote:

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

One problem is that the #1 tip is very pointy, and I think it is
bottoming out on some screws, which increases its tendency to slip.
This accelerates the damage & makes it more likely to slip the next
time. The #2 tip is definitely rounded and no where near as pointy.
The #0 seems to have a some of the same issue, but not as pronounced.

I'm going to have to replace the #1's (and may get another #0 as well),
and was wondering if folks have a favorite brand that grips screws well
and holds up better. I've had good luck with Wiha drivers in the past,
but mostly for smaller stuff (jeweler's screwdriver size).

Xcelite's quality dropped, after Cooper Tools bought them. Like
every other brand that they've purchased.


--
Never piss off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)

 

[Benderthe.evilrobot]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:UrWdndnd-pb4jfnFnZ2dnUU7-R9QAAAA@earthlink.com...

Doug White wrote:
For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips
screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my
electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips
tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today
that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1
driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also
showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

One problem is that the #1 tip is very pointy, and I think it is
bottoming out on some screws, which increases its tendency to slip.
This accelerates the damage & makes it more likely to slip the next
time. The #2 tip is definitely rounded and no where near as pointy.
The #0 seems to have a some of the same issue, but not as pronounced.

I'm going to have to replace the #1's (and may get another #0 as well),
and was wondering if folks have a favorite brand that grips screws well
and holds up better. I've had good luck with Wiha drivers in the past,
but mostly for smaller stuff (jeweler's screwdriver size).


Xcelite's quality dropped, after Cooper Tools bought them. Like every
other brand that they've purchased.

Like Weller soldering irons; I bought a new TCP-1 and the thermostat didn't
last a month.

They replaced the stat, no quibble - it lasted about a week.

They also used thinner plating on the tips - they usually broke through on
the bit inside the element barrel, the copper oxide would build up and seize
it in solid.

I switched to Antex because it was a cheap disposable item - it turned out
to be better than Weller.