Best flux remover yet: brake cleaner...

[John Larkin]

On Tue, 01 Aug 2023 06:27:10 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
wrote:

On a sunny day (Mon, 31 Jul 2023 21:33:46 -0700) it happened John Larkin
jlarkin@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote in
dj2hcihnvnbqj2gch2h0rk5eec1vrfi72o@4ax.com>:

On Tue, 1 Aug 2023 00:13:53 -0400, bitrex <user@example.net> wrote:

On 7/31/2023 5:27 PM, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jul 2023 14:41:36 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Do my brakes need cleaning? I\'ve never done that. How embarassing.

Seems more useful for drum brake service, I \"cleaned\" the original pads
and rotors on my Volt by replacing them and taking the old ones to the
scrap yard after ~7 years. Regeneration means they tend to last a long
time but less so in the Northeast than California.

Most of the bolts and pins are torque-to-yield so no point in cleaning
those either, they go to the scrapper also. Modern disc brakes are
pretty low-maintenance.


We have a \"vapor degreaser\" with two tanks, a boiling deflux side and
a clean distilled side. When it\'s shut down and nobody is looking and
the spray wand is off, I dunk my boards in the flux side and then the
clean side. Don\'t tell anyone!

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/gga0hhl0uv38sauo7ucs8/h?rlkey=1x3twrmajyelxxpnr210thot4&dl=0


New manufacture boards should look new, but the e.g. HP service guides
I\'ve read have said that for repairs by techs they should just let the
flux lie vs. trying to scrub it off.

But that\'s ugly. I like my protos all shiny.

I prefer them working!

Beautiful schematics and boards work better than crufty ones. There is
a reason for that.

I see some schematics and Spice sims and prototypes that are horrors.
Nothing personal.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zaftysxtgclxj82/Z412_Proto.JPG?raw=1

That first one is an oldie, before I discovered gold.

 

[John Larkin]

On Tue, 1 Aug 2023 05:40:17 -0700 (PDT), Fred Bloggs
<bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, July 31, 2023 at 2:41:53?PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

https://www.envirofluid.com/articles/tetrachloroethylene-a-deadly-danger-in-brake-cleaner/

Another horrible way to die.

The good thing about dying is you only have to do it once.

 

[Martin Rid]

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> Wrote in message:r

On 2023-07-31 14:51, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:> mandag den 31. juli 2023 kl. 20.41.53 UTC+2 skrev Phil Hobbs:>> Hi, all,>>>> Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.>>>> You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a>> polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap>> behind?>>>> Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to>> clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest>> brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,>> which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds>> that it was the cheapest.)>>>> Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned>> air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It>> even left the Sharpie annotations behind.>>>> It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever>> work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)> > not all brake cleaner is chlorinated> > The good stuff is!CheersPhil Hobbs-- Dr Philip C D HobbsPrincipal ConsultantElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOpticsOptics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog E
lectronicsBriarcliff Manor NY 10510http://electrooptical.nethttp://hobbs-eo.com

I believe the red cans of crc are still chlorinated.

Cheers
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
https://piaohong.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/usenet/index.html

 

[Martin Rid]

John Larkin <jlarkin@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> Wrote in message:r

On Mon, 31 Jul 2023 14:41:36 -0400, Phil Hobbs<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:>Hi, all,>>Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.>>You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a >polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap >behind?>>Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to >clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest >brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos, >which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds >that it was the cheapest.)>>Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned >air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It >even left the Sharpie annotations behind.>>It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever >work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)>>Highly recommended.>>Cheers>>Phil HobbsDo my brakes need cleaning? I\'ve never done that. How embarassing.We have a \"vapor degreaser\" with two tanks, a boiling deflux side anda clean distilled side. When it\'s shut down and nobody is looking andthe spray wand
is off, I dunk my boards in the flux side and then theclean side. Don\'t tell anyone!https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/gga0hhl0uv38sauo7ucs8/h?rlkey=1x3twrmajyelxxpnr210thot4&dl=0

Vapor degreasers are awsome.

Cheers
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
https://piaohong.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/usenet/index.html

 

[Jan Panteltje]

On a sunny day (Tue, 1 Aug 2023 13:57:07 -0000 (UTC)) it happened Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in
<uab2vj$3m2cu$1@dont-email.me>:

Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> wrote:
On a sunny day (Mon, 31 Jul 2023 14:41:36 -0400) it happened Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in
2bbdc611-7a26-9894-a1e2-497fcea6bd7f@electrooptical.net>:

Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

But what does it do to the inside of components?

Metal, fully-dense ceramic and 100% cross linked Novolac epoxy?

Not a lot.

I looked up that dangerous stuff that is in it, it seems to attack plastics?

I normally leave the rosin flux on after soldering on proto boards.
It protects and does no damage.

It gets in the way of subsequent mods, which makes the proto get flaky much
sooner. Besides, it’s ugly.

Beauty is in the beholders eye.. it does no harm and helps when modifying things.
You need a warm soldering iron, it will melt then
Functionality has a beauty.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 2023-08-01 12:23, Jan Panteltje wrote:

On a sunny day (Tue, 1 Aug 2023 13:57:07 -0000 (UTC)) it happened Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in
uab2vj$3m2cu$1@dont-email.me>:

Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> wrote:
On a sunny day (Mon, 31 Jul 2023 14:41:36 -0400) it happened Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in
2bbdc611-7a26-9894-a1e2-497fcea6bd7f@electrooptical.net>:

Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

But what does it do to the inside of components?

Metal, fully-dense ceramic and 100% cross linked Novolac epoxy?

Not a lot.

I looked up that dangerous stuff that is in it, it seems to attack plastics?

Circuit boards don\'t have a lot of thermoplastic stuff on them. It\'s
pretty well all inorganic or else crosslinked and hence insoluble.

You can soften epoxy a bit by boiling it in TCE, but it takes a lot
longer even with a lot of heat applied.

I normally leave the rosin flux on after soldering on proto boards.
It protects and does no damage.

It gets in the way of subsequent mods, which makes the proto get flaky much
sooner. Besides, it’s ugly.

Beauty is in the beholders eye.. it does no harm and helps when modifying things.
You need a warm soldering iron, it will melt then
Functionality has a beauty.

I find that old flux with bits of oxide from the soldering tip makes it
harder to modify, not easier. With larger parts (SOICs and 0805 or
larger) it isn\'t such an issue, but with a fairly tight layout full of
0603s MSOPs, and so on, cleaning is a big help.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Jan Panteltje]

On a sunny day (Tue, 01 Aug 2023 07:17:48 -0700) it happened John Larkin
<jlarkin@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote in
<mg4icid375al48iffa063n3ck38r077aji@4ax.com>:

On Tue, 01 Aug 2023 06:27:10 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid
wrote:

On a sunny day (Mon, 31 Jul 2023 21:33:46 -0700) it happened John Larkin
jlarkin@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote in
dj2hcihnvnbqj2gch2h0rk5eec1vrfi72o@4ax.com>:

On Tue, 1 Aug 2023 00:13:53 -0400, bitrex <user@example.net> wrote:

On 7/31/2023 5:27 PM, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jul 2023 14:41:36 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Do my brakes need cleaning? I\'ve never done that. How embarassing.

Seems more useful for drum brake service, I \"cleaned\" the original pads
and rotors on my Volt by replacing them and taking the old ones to the
scrap yard after ~7 years. Regeneration means they tend to last a long
time but less so in the Northeast than California.

Most of the bolts and pins are torque-to-yield so no point in cleaning
those either, they go to the scrapper also. Modern disc brakes are
pretty low-maintenance.


We have a \"vapor degreaser\" with two tanks, a boiling deflux side and
a clean distilled side. When it\'s shut down and nobody is looking and
the spray wand is off, I dunk my boards in the flux side and then the
clean side. Don\'t tell anyone!

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/gga0hhl0uv38sauo7ucs8/h?rlkey=1x3twrmajyelxxpnr210thot4&dl=0


New manufacture boards should look new, but the e.g. HP service guides
I\'ve read have said that for repairs by techs they should just let the
flux lie vs. trying to scrub it off.

But that\'s ugly. I like my protos all shiny.

I prefer them working!

Beautiful schematics and boards work better than crufty ones. There is
a reason for that.

I see some schematics and Spice sims and prototypes that are horrors.
Nothing personal.

Yes I\'ve heard of Spice, mostly use chili, pepper and salt, like just now in my pizza, tasted great.


>https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?raw=1

Imagine you are an electron.
you \'job\' is be a current
You go from here to there and encounter a whole big field of other electrons (the large copper areas you dremeled)
you bump into those other electrons there, it causes a mass movement,
\'reflection\' when the movement hits the other end of that large area
and electrons bounce back, capacitive influences from external fields (if you will) cause more mass hysteria
and some of those wild electrons now join you and enhance or neutralize your movement.
Keep copper between connection as little and as short as possible!e!!!
Buy some .1 inch veroboard ...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zaftysxtgclxj82/Z412_Proto.JPG?raw=1

That first one is an oldie, before I discovered gold.

It makes little sense, only for skin effect maybe or to impress you audience.
Or stop corrosion, some solder resin also stops corrosion
some things I build on that veroboard are still working >30 years later.

I build some nice things last few days, sort of an alarm system.
Was a good soldering exercise...
Lots of long cables and a small ebay module, battery backup, power....
beeper, LEDs, SMDs all veroboard.
It is under test now....

And I repaired a digital multimeter, it had had 240V AC on the oms continuity range.
Amazing only one resistor has evaporated...
Of couse I did not have that value . 900 Ohms, but 220 and 680 SMDs in series worked
and calibration is good.
So we keep busy playing with \'tronixs.... sorry ele-tronics, or what was it again?
/

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 2023-07-31 17:35, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:

mandag den 31. juli 2023 kl. 23.28.07 UTC+2 skrev John Larkin:
On Mon, 31 Jul 2023 14:41:36 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamM...@electrooptical.net> wrote:

Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs
Do my brakes need cleaning? I\'ve never done that. How embarassing.

it is to remove the protective oil on the new discs when replacing

And get rid of all the dust that gets glued on by various bits of oil
and brake fluid that leak out. You really do not want any of that
inside your hydraulic system.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs



--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Phil Hobbs]

John Larkin <jlarkin@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com> wrote:

On Tue, 1 Aug 2023 05:40:17 -0700 (PDT), Fred Bloggs
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, July 31, 2023 at 2:41:53?PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

https://www.envirofluid.com/articles/tetrachloroethylene-a-deadly-danger-in-brake-cleaner/

Another horrible way to die.

The good thing about dying is you only have to do it once.


“A coward dies a thousand times before his death” (Shakespeare)

Not intending to impugn anyone’s courage, but some folks do seem to make
dying a bit of a hobby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics,
Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

 

[Michael Terrell]

On Monday, July 31, 2023 at 2:41:53 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

I\'ve used it for over 20 years. I\'ve mentioned it on numerous group, but I was met with skepticism. I was buying it from a dollar store, back then. Sometimes the Ollie\'s discount stores have it at a good price.

 

[Michael Terrell]

On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 9:57:16 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Metal, fully-dense ceramic and 100% cross linked Novolac epoxy?

Not a lot.

It gets in the way of subsequent mods, which makes the proto get flaky much
sooner. Besides, it’s ugly.

Did you ever look at early Delco circuit boards? They were dipped into flux, then dip soldered on a solder pot. The entire bottom of the boards were covered with flux, and some had it on the top side where it splashed. It wasn\'t unusual to see it 1/8\" thick in spots.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com> wrote:

On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 9:57:16 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Metal, fully-dense ceramic and 100% cross linked Novolac epoxy?

Not a lot.

It gets in the way of subsequent mods, which makes the proto get flaky much
sooner. Besides, it’s ugly.

Did you ever look at early Delco circuit boards? They were dipped into
flux, then dip soldered on a solder pot. The entire bottom of the boards
were covered with flux, and some had it on the top side where it
splashed. It wasn\'t unusual to see it 1/8\" thick in spots.

“I’d like to say a big hello to all intelligent life forms everywhere, and
for you others, the secret is to keep banging the rocks together, guys. “.


Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC /
Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

 

[Phil Hobbs]

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, July 31, 2023 at 2:41:53 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


I\'ve used it for over 20 years. I\'ve mentioned it on numerous group, but
I was met with skepticism. I was buying it from a dollar store, back
then. Sometimes the Ollie\'s discount stores have it at a good price.

I’m chronically behind the curve, is all. Reasonably well adjusted about
it, though

Cheers

Phil Hobbs



--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC /
Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

 

[Chris Jones]

On 1/08/2023 4:41 am, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors.  Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly.  (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable.  One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all.  It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work.  (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

I would be wary of using any halogenated solvent to clean boards with
eletrolytic capacitors.

https://chemi-con.com/build-your-dream-with-an-trusted-service-whatever-you-neded-2/

https://www.chemi-con.co.jp/products/relatedfiles/capacitor/catalog/al-technote-e.pdf

 

[Phil Hobbs]

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com> wrote:

On 1/08/2023 4:41 am, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors.  Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly.  (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable.  One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all.  It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work.  (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


I would be wary of using any halogenated solvent to clean boards with
eletrolytic capacitors.

https://chemi-con.com/build-your-dream-with-an-trusted-service-whatever-you-neded-2/

https://www.chemi-con.co.jp/products/relatedfiles/capacitor/catalog/al-technote-e.pdf

Thanks, that’s useful stuff.

I’d need some persuading to believe that 40 seconds’ exposure to non-ionic
perchlorocarbons that evaporate rapidly is going to cause a lot of chloride
corrosion on the other side of an intact O-ring seal.

The UCC document doesn’t really address chlorinated solvents, other than to
say that they’re been replaced. And of course TCE-based vapor degreasers
have been used for cleaning circuit boards since forever.

I suppose it’s possible that O-ring elastomers have been reformulated to be
less resistant to chlorocarbon solvents, but the document doesn’t say that.


Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC /
Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

 

[Glen Walpert]

On Thu, 3 Aug 2023 12:59:43 -0000 (UTC), Phil Hobbs wrote:

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com> wrote:
On 1/08/2023 4:41 am, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white
crap behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors.  Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly.  (I picked it on the excellent
grounds that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable.  One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all.  It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work.  (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


I would be wary of using any halogenated solvent to clean boards with
eletrolytic capacitors.

https://chemi-con.com/build-your-dream-with-an-trusted-service-
whatever-you-neded-2/

https://www.chemi-con.co.jp/products/relatedfiles/capacitor/catalog/al-
technote-e.pdf

Thanks, that’s useful stuff.

I’d need some persuading to believe that 40 seconds’ exposure to
non-ionic perchlorocarbons that evaporate rapidly is going to cause a
lot of chloride corrosion on the other side of an intact O-ring seal.

The UCC document doesn’t really address chlorinated solvents, other than
to say that they’re been replaced. And of course TCE-based vapor
degreasers have been used for cleaning circuit boards since forever.

I suppose it’s possible that O-ring elastomers have been reformulated to
be less resistant to chlorocarbon solvents, but the document doesn’t say
that.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

O-ring elastomers have improved a lot in the last 50 years, but there are
still none that are completely impermeable to chlorinated solvents (not
counting teflon as an elastomer). The chemical compatibility tables in
the Parker O-ring handbook should confirm that, especially for low cost
materials. Whatever solvent diffuses into the seal will continue to
diffuse in all directions after exposure; some will get inside. No doubt
insignificant for protos or consumer gear with normal short cleaning
followed by drying, but if long term reliability is important the
manufacturers recommendations should probably be followed.

I used a Viton O-ring in a test with 1,1,1-trichloroethane (very similar
to TCE) when I was a lab tech for the leading mechanical seal mfgr in the
70\'s. Worked for a few hours, total failure in less than 24 hours from
extreme swelling. Viton is better than most for chemical resistance,
probably too expensive for capacitors.

Of course if you want high reliability you probably shouldn\'t be using
aluminum electrolytics in the first place.

Glen

 

[Michael Terrell]

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 7:29:04 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Michael Terrell wrote:
On Monday, July 31, 2023 at 2:41:53 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


I\'ve used it for over 20 years. I\'ve mentioned it on numerous group, but
I was met with skepticism. I was buying it from a dollar store, back
then. Sometimes the Ollie\'s discount stores have it at a good price.

I’m chronically behind the curve, is all. Reasonably well adjusted about
it, though

I use household ammonia to clean dirty boards, followed by a rinse with distilled water, then let them dry. I spray a fine mist and stand the board nearly vertical so that the dust and other crud is washed away, the the same wit the distilled water.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 7:29:04 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Michael Terrell wrote:
On Monday, July 31, 2023 at 2:41:53 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Hi, all,

Just wanted to pass along a new (to me) discovery.

You know how when you try removing rosin flux with \"flux remover\" or a
polar solvent such as methanol or acetone, it leaves all this white crap
behind?

Yesterday I was in Advanced Auto Parts to get a can of Berryman B12 to
clean out my fuel injectors. Just on spec, I bought a can of Carquest
brake cleaner ($8ish for a 19-oz can) to try out on my current protos,
which were getting a bit gnarly. (I picked it on the excellent grounds
that it was the cheapest.)

Stuff is unbelievable. One good spritz, followed by a bit of canned
air, and the board looks like nobody ever monkeyed with it at all. It
even left the Sharpie annotations behind.

It does have various chlorinated things in it, but man, does it ever
work. (Use it outside if you don\'t have a fume hood.)

Highly recommended.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


I\'ve used it for over 20 years. I\'ve mentioned it on numerous group, but
I was met with skepticism. I was buying it from a dollar store, back
then. Sometimes the Ollie\'s discount stores have it at a good price.

I’m chronically behind the curve, is all. Reasonably well adjusted about
it, though

I use household ammonia to clean dirty boards, followed by a rinse with
distilled water, then let them dry. I spray a fine mist and stand the
board nearly vertical so that the dust and other crud is washed away, the
the same wit the distilled water.

Anything aqueous is a problem for sensitive high-Z analog stuff. Drugstore
IPA is more or less fatal.

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC /
Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

 

[Mike Monett VE3BTI]

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

ƒ oIƒ Td like to say a big hello to all intelligent life forms
everywhere, and for you others, the secret is to keep banging the rocks
together, guys. ƒ o.


Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations
LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog
Electronics

Originalos episode 2: Before Soccer - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKPAtCDM1Lc

--
MRM

 

[Mike Monett VE3BTI]

Mike Monett VE3BTI <spamme@not.com> wrote:

Originalos episode 2: Before Soccer - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKPAtCDM1Lc

Need one with banging rocks together:

Originalos episode 21: Before the greenhouse effect - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WweECY2Rtk



--
MRM