Battery Charger V/Ah

What To Look For In A Men's Watch
There are many accessories that suit a man nicely, but there is
nothing that has the touch quite like a fine luxury watch. While there
is a wide array of men's watches to choose from, there are certain
facets that make up the perfect watch. Everybody is going to have
different tastes and different expectations, but every watch should
have specific features.

The first thing you want to look at is the bracelet of the men's
watch. A quality watch is going to have a durable and stable bracelet
that is made of stainless steel. Stainless steel is going to look much
sharper and more expensive than leather, and is far more practical in
general. The great thing about stainless steel is that it can be worn
with virtually any outfit and every occasion imaginable.

at$B!'(Bsalereplicawatch.com

 

[Duck]

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[Robert LaCasse]

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:04:05 -0700, Rick Cortese <ricortes@earthlink.net>
wrote:

|>Really, go with a 317 set up as a constant current source if you want it
|>done right but don't want to go the $120 charger route. In a perfect
|>world you should set up a charger with two 317s: First one to regulate
|>the DC voltage to ~16V max<to allow for forward voltage drop on the 2nd
|>317 and still have over 14.7V you want for charging> and the second one
|>to limit current to the .8 amps you are looking for. It would only cost
|>you a couple of bucks to do it that way.

For some reason, the Yamaha Shop Manual's instruction from GP is
that (a constant current charger is not suitable for charging MF batteries)
and conventional chargers may harm the MF battery as well....

Your explanation on the Voltage/Amperage was quite suitable as I
have noticed and heard over and over again......so it must be true heh.....

 

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Waterproof - if your Swiss replica watch claims to be waterproof, it
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Stop Watch - this is a second hand that measures intervals of time in
the replica watch.
Strap - this is also called a band any Swiss replica watch has in
either cloth, leather or other non-metal material.
Subdial - A small dial used for keeping track of elapsed hours or
minutes in your fake Rolex.
Digital Watch - this is a replica watch that checks the time using
digits not hands.
Dual Time Zone - A Swiss replica watch that measures more than one
time zone.
Battery - this is provided for the power in your replica Rolex.
Bezel - The bezel is that portion of the case that immediately
surrounds the outside of the replica Rolex watch crystal.
Crystal - this is the glass that covers the face of your Swiss replica
watch. Two main crystal types which are used in replica Rolex are
Mineral and Sapphire.

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[Robert LaCasse]

On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 22:13:13 -0700, Dennis Lee Bieber
<wlfraed@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

|>> The charging volts are not higher than 12.4 volts on any of the
|>> chargers....
|>>
|> Under voltage for charging -- even at trickle rates.

I use at least 13.5v+++

When using a DVM, were do you get your charging volt readings from,
the standard DCVolt or the 12v Batt/Load setting, the difference in mine is
about .5 volt....which makes a difference in topping up...to those 12v +
incremental digits...

 

[Mike Tomlinson]

In article <GucWj.10$JE4.9@newsfe11.ams2>, Arfa Daily
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes

But it's just been explained

You're arguing with w_tom, one of the most clueless posters to usenet.
Have a google if you don't believe me.

--
(\__/) Bunny says NO to Windows Vista!
(='.'=) http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~pgut001/pubs/vista_cost.html
(")_(") http://www.cypherpunks.to/~peter/vista.pdf

 

[mm]

On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 22:32:56 -0700, Robert LaCasse
<scooter@yamaha.info> wrote:

|>> All the "Walwart" max output 800ma (.8A) with 3 volts selected
|>> showed 2amps on the amp meter, and almost 4amps at the 12v setting. The
|>> inline charging modules were pretty much the same...
|
|
|>Your post doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
|
|>You need more than 12.4V to charge a 12V battery. If you want to limit the
|>current, use an LM317 wired as a constant current source, choose the
|>resistors accordingly to set 800mA.
|

"Walwarts" = Universal Chargers

I think if you spelled this with two l's it wouldn't look so much like
Walmart, which is the way I read it each time until this last one.

Besides the fact that wall-wart might not be a widespread term. And
for that matter, not all little black plug-in boxes are "universal" or
multi-voltage.

And you didn't use the word but while I'm at it, adaptor has its own
problem in that one can adapt a lot more things than just voltages.
(I don't even know how they chose that word. Changing to direct
current and changing voltage don't seem like adaption to me.)

A Universal Charger's max 800mA "Walwart" will read 16v as a
charging current, when set at it's max 12v.

Little black box plug-in battery charger or replacer seems to be the
words.

I haven't read much of the thread but I'm sure someone pointed out
that the 16 volts drops quite a bit when it is actually charging
something. At least with a cheap model. Doesn't that solve the
problem?

P&M

If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM

 

[James Sweet]

Major Debacle wrote:

James Sweet wrote:

Perhaps I should have used the word "bulb" instead of "lamp", for it
is the fluorescent bulb which has burned out and needs replacing. The
fixture is in good shape. This omission on my part may or may not
have caused confusion. The fixture itself is built into a cabinet and
the electrical guts are inside a cavity. The back of the cabinet
would have to be removed to get to them.

The fluorescent bulb which has burned out looks like any American
style bulb except that it has just one nubby electrode at each end
instead of two pins. A standard 21 inch, American style, two pin
fluorescent bulb will fit in this fixture, but it flickers and gets
extremely hot at the ends. I've called a couple of light bulb
suppliers in the area and neither was able to help. I have an email
in to Technico Marine, http://www.technicomarine.com/ and I'm waiting
for a reply. If you have any suggestions on where else to go for this
bulb, please post.

Thanks...


No, "Lamp" is a correct term for a fluorescent "bulb", it's not really
a bulb afterall, but a tube.

That sounds like a slimline, I know I've seen fairly short slimline
lamps (tubes) at McLendon hardware near me, I can look next time I go
there. What is the diameter? I believe I've seen both T8 and T6.

This is the wrong length, but otherwise the sort I'm thinking
http://www.lbutampa.com/Lighting-Products/Product/Satco/Light_Bulbs/S6471/


That picture looks exactly like the one I need to change. The diameter
of the tube is probably 3/4", so it would be a T6. I don't have it here
with me. Definitely not a T8. As for length, a two-pin slender style
tube of nominal size 21 inches fits this fixture.

I have run all this by several merchants who specialize in light bulbs
and none have even been able to come close.

I am probably going to have to change the fixtures.

Does it list the wattage? I'll look around and see what I can find.

 

[w_tom]

Because important details are missing, then different answers are
provided; all correct because each is based upon different
assumptions.

Bob Shuman's and bz's answers assume a GFCI in the breaker box. As
correctly noted, a GFCI's white neutral wire must remains electrically
separated from all other neutral wires. And both black (hot) and
white (neutral) wires must be keep separate from other circuits so
that even milliamps cannot leak through a partially penetrated wire
insulation.

If GFCI is in the kitchen, then dodger741's answer is relevant.
That assumes the computer is somehow on the same circuit. Not clear
from your post which circuit has the GFCI.

Paul's questions about environment when tripping occurs is also
relevant.

And finally, if the microwave is generating too much common mode
noise, then common mode filtering in a computer (on a GFCI circuit)
could trip that GFCI. But that would have to be a massive common mode
noise generator - would definitively interfere with other radio
frequency equipment (AM radio, TV screen?).

On May 26, 10:24 pm, kolw...@minetfiber.com wrote:

Sometimes my microwave trips the other circuit that has our computers
on it, even though the appliance is on a different circuit at the far
end of the house. This happens maybe 1 out of 3 starts.

I've replaced the GFCI and it still trips; moved the microwave to a
third different circuit - same problem.

The microwave has been working normally for almost 5 years, but has
recently started making a buzzing sound on start up.