Battery Charger V/Ah

[Robert LaCasse]

Hi!

I tested some battery chargers last night , and found "as usual"
that the amps and voltages stated on the modules were not the same as what I
found on the Volt and Amp testers....

Some 12v charging modules, would say 1.5 amp, whereas the voltage
test was 12-->17v and/or 4-->6amps on the meters....

All the "Walwart" max output 800ma (.8A) with 3 volts selected
showed 2amps on the amp meter, and almost 4amps at the 12v setting. The
inline charging modules were pretty much the same...

I have a 12v 8Ah MF SLA battery to charge at .8amp and I can't get
anything to charge as low as .8 amp from the walwarts.......when I do,
nothing happens for days, as far volt checks are concerned...

The charging volts are not higher than 12.4 volts on any of the
chargers....

Some ppl discard this discrepancy with the volts compensate for the
current, expression, but does it really, if a low charging amp can't be
achieved? I don't want to buckle cells or dehydrate the $240 MF SLA battery.

 

[Dennis Lee Bieber]

On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 20:01:08 -0700, Robert LaCasse <yamaha@here.info>
declaimed the following in alt.scooter:

I tested some battery chargers last night , and found "as usual"
that the amps and voltages stated on the modules were not the same as what I
found on the Volt and Amp testers....

HOW did you test? Just hooking a DVM across the leads will not give

reasonable readings.

Some 12v charging modules, would say 1.5 amp, whereas the voltage
test was 12-->17v and/or 4-->6amps on the meters....

A 12V lead-acid battery tends to need >13V to charge, with 14V being

a common value.

All the "Walwart" max output 800ma (.8A) with 3 volts selected
showed 2amps on the amp meter, and almost 4amps at the 12v setting. The
inline charging modules were pretty much the same...

Put a fully charged battery on the other end -- likely the back

pressure will reduce the actual current flowing to nil (if not actually
drain the battery due to the low voltage of the charger)

I have a 12v 8Ah MF SLA battery to charge at .8amp and I can't get
anything to charge as low as .8 amp from the walwarts.......when I do,
nothing happens for days, as far volt checks are concerned...

.8A for 8Ah implies you are aiming for a 10hour charge rate... if

the battery were drained...

The charging volts are not higher than 12.4 volts on any of the
chargers....

Under voltage for charging -- even at trickle rates.

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-13.htm

Slow charge, risking sulfation, is 2.3V per cell... or 2.3 * 6 =>
13.8V.

Fast charge is 2.45V per cell... 2.45 * 6 => 14.7...

On low-beam (55W I believe), at freeway cruise, my Aprilia only
manages 13.5-13.8; on high-beam (35W) it achieves 13.8-14.1 -- according
the trip computer voltage display.

Some ppl discard this discrepancy with the volts compensate for the
current, expression, but does it really, if a low charging amp can't be
achieved? I don't want to buckle cells or dehydrate the $240 MF SLA battery.

Then don't rely on cheap chargers -- for a $240 battery, surely you
can justify a $120 computerized charger.
--
Wulfraed Dennis Lee Bieber KD6MOG
wlfraed@ix.netcom.com wulfraed@bestiaria.com
HTTP://wlfraed.home.netcom.com/
(Bestiaria Support Staff: web-asst@bestiaria.com)
HTTP://www.bestiaria.com/

 

[Robert LaCasse]

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 03:35:47 GMT, "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
wrote:

|>
|>"Robert LaCasse" <yamaha@here.info> wrote in message
|>news:363g04hkpo3a73a4ov8b2koh6vhp5t3dtv@4ax.com...
|>> Hi!
|>>
|>> I tested some battery chargers last night , and found "as usual"
|>> that the amps and voltages stated on the modules were not the same as what
|>> I
|>> found on the Volt and Amp testers....
|>>
|>> Some 12v charging modules, would say 1.5 amp, whereas the voltage
|>> test was 12-->17v and/or 4-->6amps on the meters....
|>>
|>> All the "Walwart" max output 800ma (.8A) with 3 volts selected
|>> showed 2amps on the amp meter, and almost 4amps at the 12v setting. The
|>> inline charging modules were pretty much the same...
|>>
|>> I have a 12v 8Ah MF SLA battery to charge at .8amp and I can't get
|>> anything to charge as low as .8 amp from the walwarts.......when I do,
|>> nothing happens for days, as far volt checks are concerned...
|>>
|>> The charging volts are not higher than 12.4 volts on any of the
|>> chargers....
|>>
|>> Some ppl discard this discrepancy with the volts compensate for the
|>> current, expression, but does it really, if a low charging amp can't be
|>> achieved? I don't want to buckle cells or dehydrate the $240 MF SLA
|>> battery.
|>
|>Your post doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
|>
|>You need more than 12.4V to charge a 12V battery. If you want to limit the
|>current, use an LM317 wired as a constant current source, choose the
|>resistors accordingly to set 800mA.
|>

"Walwarts" = Universal Chargers

A Universal Charger's max 800mA "Walwart" will read 16v as a
charging current, when set at it's max 12v.

The current/amps will read 2--->3.5amps at 12v, which is something I
never really understood, since the Universal Charger is not rated to go or
handle more than .8amps maximum?

At the highest setting, the Universal Chargers won't do much unless
your talking days to charge an older battery at it's rating 800mA......

Are the Universal Chargers defective, most electronics shops say no,
and they are rated correctly....?

I usually put the battery on an older UPS that had the same battery
and I get good results on that.....It (voltmeter) reads 14v at 1.2amps

Am I confusing the .8aH suggested charging rate of 10% for an 8amp
battery with the Universal Chargers 800mA.

 

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[§ńühw¤Łf]

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 11:23:44 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote in message
news:87-dner0Rf5BdprVnZ2dnUVZ8gidnZ2d@bt.com...
John "C" wrote:
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote in message

Right?

Yes, Ricky!

John C.

Welcome to the the K-Man & John 'C' Show

- Featuring the Kadaitcha Man and his yes-man; John 'C'.


Correction.

Welcome to the John 'C' Show

- Featuring Kadaitcha Man stalker, John 'C'.

I have the cunt plonked. As you no doubt see, there is no benefit to reading
any of his tripe.

Actually there *is*
I got him to fess up to being a WIFE BEATER.

FYI

--
http://www.encyclopediadramatica.com/images/0/06/Centipedes.jpg

 

[dorsy1943]

On Apr 1, 11:46 pm, "hemyd" <myd!!!...@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Having been on holidays for the past few days, I managed my bg quite nicely
with a combination od diet, minor exercise (walking) and medication. My fbg
this morning was under 75. Low crab toast for breakfast.  Had minestrone
soup (few carbs - no pasta or potatoes) for lunch, then half an hour later
went for my first bike ride in several days. Into a strong 40 mph head wind,
flew down the other way, then back into the head wind on my way home. About
7 miles. Measure my bg - Arrghhhhh! 211 !!! Someone here mentioned getting
Liver Dumps From Hell. I get them all the time... Hopefully 8 units of
Novorapid will bring that one down soon....

Henry Mydlarz (Type 2)

I have been t2 for about 17 years. Early on I would find that after
exercise my sugar went up not down. I asked questions but no one
could answer. It drove me crazy. Liver dump makes sense. However I
have not had that problem for many many years. I try to exercise
within an hour of eating (I am definitely not a low carber--breakfast
might be a soup with oatmeal, beans and vegetables with a tomato base
and a banana, apple or orange for dessert.) If I don't exercise until
about an hour or so before lunch, I test my blood sugar and if it is
in the 80's or lower, I have a piece of fruit or some whole grain
crackers first.

Dolores

 

[ChrisCoaster]

On Apr 17, 11:12 am, Ken Layton <KLayton...@aol.com> wrote:

On Apr 15, 6:16 pm, ChrisCoaster <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote:

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[Bennett Price]

I've got a small 12V DC .9 Watt 'muffin' fan (1.75"x1.75"x3/8").
It was the cooler for a video card's processor chip and was
frozen up.

I put a drop of oil into its sleeve bearing and it now runs
reliably - almost. It will start every time as long as it is
not oriented with the open 'face' down. (The open face is the
side in which you can see the bearing). If the open bearing is
down, it sometimes starts and sometimes needs a slight nudge to
get it going.

What's going on? How come? TIA

 

[Who Me?]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote

It would be a strange power supply that allowed that. Although it might be
possible with different tappings on a transformer.

True that a "real" power supply shouldn't work like that but I believe most
of what he was talking about were simple transformers, with or without
diodes for rectification.

A simple transformer is capable of supplying only so much power and P=IxE so
as the current goes up, the voltage goes down. That's also why the output
voltage reads higher than the "rating" when it is open (supplying NO
current).

 

[whit3rd]

USB is a master/slave connection, and your intent is to connect
two masters. It can be done, by a cable that supports a
dual-port memory which is a slave to both the masters.
And, some software.

However, a peer-to-peer connection is far easier and can
generalize to more than two computers. Firewire and Ethernet
and variations on WiFi are the best choices here.

Those little USB keychain flash drives are widely available,
inexpensive
and completely supported by modern OS software. Use them if
it has to be a USB solution.

 

[Baron]

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article <OgOlGON20eCIFwpp@g3ohx.demon.co.uk>,
Ian Jackson <ianREMOVETHISjackson@g3ohx.demon.co.uk> wrote:
I had a similar thing which drove me crazy. Happened just after
fitting a new graphics card. Which was just coincidence. Turned out
to be the main processor overheating and shutting down. Its fan was
working normally and no error messages generated. Removing the
heatsink, cleaning and applying new thermo conductive paste sorted
it. Now have a spare power supply...


I had the same problem with the PC shutting down when the processor
was working hard. Its heatsink was full of dust. Soon afterwards, I
again had shutdowns. This time it was because the PSU fan had seized
solid (probably dry bearings). Freeing-off and re-lubrication with
WD40 has worked for the last 6 months (but I will fit a new fan one
day).

Mine was relatively new and the heatsink clean. Plenty of fans, too,
all working. It's a home assembled one which worked fine for a year or
so before developing the symptoms. I used the paste which came with
the heatsink originally and that had gone hard - dunno why.

The heat dries out most pastes ! That is why the move to phase change
materials was made. Also the phase change material allows for a much
thinner interface improving thermal conductivity and thus a more
effective heat transfer.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

 

[jakdedert]

Bennett Price > wrote:

I've got a small 12V DC .9 Watt 'muffin' fan (1.75"x1.75"x3/8").
It was the cooler for a video card's processor chip and was
frozen up.

I put a drop of oil into its sleeve bearing and it now runs
reliably - almost. It will start every time as long as it is
not oriented with the open 'face' down. (The open face is the
side in which you can see the bearing). If the open bearing is
down, it sometimes starts and sometimes needs a slight nudge to
get it going.

What's going on? How come? TIA

You oiled it, but you didn't get the gunk off the shaft. When the fan
is oriented face down there is enough endplay in the shaft for the bit
of gunk left on it to bind in the bearing. When it's face-up, that part
of the shaft is likely outside of the bushing.

When doing these, I usually operate them briefly with some kind of
solvent, until they run freely again. Then I flush the bearing with
that solvent--blow as much of it out as possible--THEN relube with 3 in
1 type oil.

Sometimes I also pack the open space with a bit of cheap grease before
resealing...figuring that if the bearing starts to get hot because of
binding, some of that grease will liquefy and and replenish the bearing.
I don't know if that's valid, but I usually get good life out of the
refurb.

OTOH, fans are cheap and readily available...much cheaper than the stuff
they protect.

jak

 

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From: service0077@watchec.com
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:55:45 -0700 (PDT)
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[JosephKK]

On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 23:50:18 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsaje04ddaritvg2u96m558rkndr8jq2hh0@4ax.com...
On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 09:22:41 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:06b004htd49j569u0ttk8sin5p39dc2llv@4ax.com...
On Wed, 09 Apr 2008 18:45:28 +1200, Terry Given <my_name@ieee.org
wrote:

Jay Ts wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:

Terry Given <my_name@ieee.org> wrote:


these are great, they look fantastic, unity power factor, dimmable,
and
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Yeah, and they're only $145 each:

http://www.lampsplus.com/products/s_lr6/


And only 650 lumens, which is less than a 60 watt incandescent (890
lumens). I'm using 4 27 watt (100 watt equivalent) 6500K CFLs to
light my work room, so to replace them with those LED bulbs, it
would cost ... oh, forget it, I don't even want to do the math!
No way.

and how many lumens come out of your fixture with the 890 lumen lamp in
it?

CFLs are terrible for that. they are measured in the light sphere sans
fixture, which can make a tremendous difference. easily 20-30%.


Oh, and the LR6 bulbs are spotlights, which is a no-go just by itself.
And they aren't daylight balanced (5500-6500K), another definite
no-go.


they are not bulbs. They are light fittings with integral lamps. that
alters the C-B calcs substantially.

I think it's still going to be a while until 100-watt equivalent,
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Jay Ts

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Cheers
Terry

For street lighting, warehouse lighting, and industrial lighting there
is a competing technology: Induction lighting. Typical lamp/bulb life
50,000 to 75,000 hours. Twice the life and better luminous efficacy
at a 50% surcharge compared to HID lighting. It is starting to get a
lot of notice. Oh, and better electrical efficiency, takes about half
the power for the same amount of light.

I don't know how much take-up of this technology there has been in the UK.
It does beg the question of how much trouble it could cause, if a single
streetlamp or warehouse luminaire went 'rogue'. Already, I see fellow hams
bleating all the time about HF bands interference problems from rogue
CFLs,
and SMPS's and PLT and so on. Imagine the potential for interference if a
high power streetlight ballast, feeding an induction lamp 50ft up a pole,
started radiating on 13 odd megs. Or a factory one 50ft up in the ceiling
...

Arfa


In the US they have to meet FCC radiated and conducted emission
standards. Thus the CFLs going rouge probably only statistically meet
those standards, such is part of the nature of regulation.

They have to meet strict emission regulations here too, which I'm sure for
the most part, when in full working order, they do. The problems arise when
the crappy little filter caps in the front end of the switching driver for
the tubes, go open circuit or high ESR, due no doubt to the unventillated
enclosure in the bottom of the lamp, that the electronics sit in, running
very hot. Once that cap has failed, the inverter radiates like a bastard,
swamping the airways with broadband hash. It's bad enough when one goes
rogue like this, 6 foot off the deck in someone's driveway light outside
their house. Think what it would be like if one went bad 50 foot up in the
air ...

Arfa

Please explain under what situations would a cfl be mounted 50 feet
above ground.

 

any styles, choices, and designs specifically designed to appeal to
the majority of reasons and whys a person may need such working attire.
From: watches0883@global-replica-watch.com
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 01:23:42 -0700 (PDT)
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As a professional worker, you know that safety is often the key
between a good job and a deadly job. Having the appropriate flame
resistant work wear is one way to keep it safe by staying out of hot
water so to speak. There are many styles, choices, and designs
specifically designed to appeal to the majority of reasons and whys a
person may need such working attire.


http://www.shoesbootjeans.com
http://www.shoesbootjeans.com/Replica_Mens%20Shoes_1.html
http://www.shoesbootjeans.com/Replica_Womens%20Shoes_1.html
http://www.shoesbootjeans.com/Replica_Boots_1.html
http://www.shoesbootjeans.com/Replica_Boots_1.html
http://www.shoesbootjeans.com/newarrivals.html
http://www.shoesbootjeans.com/hotproducts.html
There are so many reasons the professional man or woman may find it
beneficial to have flame resistant work wear. The main consideration
is the need, and of course, nothing best the most superior quality
will suffice. With high quality you are guaranteed a work day were you
rest assured you are safe and secure.

What names are there to consider when looking for high quality flame
resistant work wear?

 

[§ńühw¤Łf]

On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of alt.usenet.kooks,
snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got double secret probation for
writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters of pure
thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net> got double
secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret probation
for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in message
news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.)
Since then, I get spontaneous power loss periodically -
sometimes seconds after booting, other times after hours of
operation. I've tried replacing the power supply, and I've
tried removing all my hardware (other than RAM), so I'm
thinking it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That way, the
errant loose one will be fixed and your problem will be
resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a few
cables...fondle them...blow out the dust bunnies...listen to the
Grateful Dead live at Winterland for inspiration. Drink another
beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and wander away.
Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the side of the gully
and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of annihilation?
I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

--
http://thinkprogress.org/2008/04/20/mccain-earmark-abc/

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Add to this that my eyes are not as
good as they were 20 years ago (even 5 years ago...) and that *all*
lead-free joints *look* bad with their dull crystalline surface, and I
would
have to agree that now, bad joints are likely to turn a job from a
one-coffee money spinner, to a pot-of-coffee frustrating money loser ...

What would happen if service technicians got together and agreed to refuse
to service equipment made with lead-free solder?

That is exactly what they want them to do.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm