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On Thu, 30 Jan 2020 11:56:55 -0600, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> wrote:
Look at the schematic
https://circuitdigest.com/fullimage?i=circuitdiagram/Automatic-Light-Fence-Circuit-Diagram-with-Alarm.png
That is the classic 555 astable multivibrator circuit, with the
addition of another external trigger. That is NOT what should be
there. He would want it as a retriggerable monostable multivibrator.
Stays on while light is blocked then times out when light is resumed.
That circuit will not work properly. The better idea is to use the
transistor to short the timing cap (threshold pin) to ground and
ignore the pin 2 trigger input entirely.
The author of the article, Pankaj Khatri, has no clue as to what he's
doing. If he did manage to get it to work (as planned) it isn't
because it was designed to work as planned.
On 1/30/2020 11:48 AM, RobH wrote:
On 30/01/2020 16:58, amdx wrote:
On 1/30/2020 10:30 AM, RobH wrote:
On 30/01/2020 15:39, amdx wrote:
On 1/30/2020 9:28 AM, RobH wrote:
On 30/01/2020 14:56, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, 29 January 2020 20:48:16 UTC, RobH wrote:
I have put together a circuit from here:
https://circuitdigest.com/electronic-circuits/light-fence-circuit-diagram-with-alarm
and this is the schematic:
https://circuitdigest.com/fullimage?i=circuitdiagram/Automatic-Light-Fence-Circuit-Diagram-with-Alarm.png
I have the led, ldr and the 100k pot part of the circuit working
fine,
but the buzzer from the 555ic does not work or sound as it is
supposed
to do. (the buzzer is new and and has worked on another project)
I am using a BC327 pnp transistor as I don't have a BC557 transistor
The author clearly has it working fine, but I cannot get it fully
working.
Hopefully as per the schematic, I have a wire from pin 2 on 555ic
to the
emitter of the BC327, and also a wire from pin 3 of the 555ic to the
positive side of the buzzer.
Now, the strange thing is after removing the said wire from the
BC327
emitter, the buzzer does work, albeit when the ldr has not been
covered.This seems to be due to the capacitor across pins 1 and 2
of the
555ic.
Thanks
LED output is dc. Your 5v buzzer can go across LED & R2, but do
add a diode across it. The 555 is not needed.
NT
Ok thanks.
I have some diodes which I could use.
Pardon my ignorance, but as I am only doing this as a hobby and
have not touched electronics in over 35 years. I mistakenly thought
that the circuit and design I saw on that said website was how it
should be, but have now found that it is not.
Hey guys, he said that pin 2 is moving up and down by changing
light input to the ldr. The problem as I see it, he said the voltage
went down
to 4.6V on pin 2, that's not low enough, it must go below 3V to
switch the 555.
Mikek
Using a 5v supply the voltage across pin 2 on the 555 was 4.01v and
went down to 2.57v after changing the light input to the ldr. On pin
3 it was 0v as before.
Thanks
Pin 2 needs to go below 1/3 VCC, so with a 9 volt supply, that
would be 3V, with a 5V supply that would be 1.6V.
If you put the 9v supply back in and put a 47 ohm resistor from pin 2
to ground, that should bring pin 2 down to about 1.3V and trigger pin
3 to sound your buzzer. OR you could just ground pin 2 to make the
buzzer buzz. All of this is not the fix for your circuit, but this is
to help you understand how the 555 behaves. If this works then we will
figure out how to make the transistor pull it lower.
Let me know.
Mikek
Using the 9v supply and either shorting or using a resistor on pin 2 to
ground caused the led to stay on and the buzzer to beep all the time.
The voltage on pin 2 was 6.58v when shorted and 1.9v when using a 100
ohm resistor. (Smallest I had)
OK, so now you know that the 555 will trigger when pin gets low enough.
How long did you want the buzzer to buzz? Was it any time the ldr
signaled it to or just one beep when the LDR made the change.
I don't know the purpose of the circuit.
We either have one problem to fix or two problems to fix. But I need to
know what the buzzed is supposed to do.
JUst to give you a head start, I suspect your transistor is not being
turned off hard enough, meaning you can't bring pin 2 low enough.
Might increase the 210 ohm to 500 ohms or 1000 ohms to start.
But that's getting ahead.
Mikek
Look at the schematic
https://circuitdigest.com/fullimage?i=circuitdiagram/Automatic-Light-Fence-Circuit-Diagram-with-Alarm.png
That is the classic 555 astable multivibrator circuit, with the
addition of another external trigger. That is NOT what should be
there. He would want it as a retriggerable monostable multivibrator.
Stays on while light is blocked then times out when light is resumed.
That circuit will not work properly. The better idea is to use the
transistor to short the timing cap (threshold pin) to ground and
ignore the pin 2 trigger input entirely.
The author of the article, Pankaj Khatri, has no clue as to what he's
doing. If he did manage to get it to work (as planned) it isn't
because it was designed to work as planned.