APC Smart-UPS does nothing after non-use

[Tim Phipps]

gareth magennis wrote:

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:7ZSdnf6TSfErPafVnZ2dnUVZ_gqdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Last time I downloaded floppy boot disks from the Interweb,
most of them (95 and 98) wouldn't work, don't know why.
The CD ROM -- such as the one for W2K -- should have a utility that
creates
the required floppies.




Just had a look on my Win98SE disk and can't find the utility amongst the
zillions of files. I know there is one that launches during setup, but can
you launch it just off the CD?



Gareth.

William is correct that there is a utility on the Windows 2000 (and XP)
cds for creating the set of floppies required to initialise the setup
process if your system can't be booted from a cd. AFAIK there was no
such utility on the Win98 cds.

To the OP: I am surprised that a P-II system does not support booting
from cd. Be sure that your cd was made to be bootable. If it is an
original operating system cd it should be. If you cannot find where to
change the boot sequence there is often a hotkey that you can press at
boot time to give you a menu of bootable drives to choose from. IIRC on
IBM systems you need to press F12.

--
Tim Phipps

replace "invalid" with "uk" to reply by email

 

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[Franc Zabkar]

On 26 May 2008 19:14:12 -0400, Sam Goldwasser
<sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> writes:

A normal AT/ATX PSU has +12V on the yellow and +5V on the red. Be
aware that certain 3rd party PC manufacturers (eg Apricot)
intentionally wired these the other way around in an attempt to force
the user to buy replacement parts from them.

How many lawsuits did they have?

I recently offered my old Apricot PSUs to an Apricot enthusiast for
free. He hasn't yet responded to my email. Maybe that's a bad sign.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Major Debacle]

James Sweet wrote:

Major Debacle wrote:
Hi,

I need an FSL-520-D Japanese style fluorescent lamp. It is unlike an
American style lamp in that it only has one electrode at each end. An
American style lamp flickers and overheats when plugged into this
Japanese style fixture. Does anyone know where I might be able to
procure these FSL-520-D Japanese style fluorescent lamps?

The AC voltage across this Japanese fluorescent fixture when plugged
into a 110-120 American socket is about 600 volts measured with a
standard American multimeter. Just for my own edification, does anyone
know how this kind of fixture differs in its operation from an American
style fluorescent fixture?


Do you have a picture of the lamp? If it has 600V then it uses an
electronic ballast. The -D suffix just indicates Daylight (6500K) color
temperature phosphor. Shouldn't be too hard to find something that'll work.

Perhaps I should have used the word "bulb" instead of "lamp", for it is
the fluorescent bulb which has burned out and needs replacing. The
fixture is in good shape. This omission on my part may or may not have
caused confusion. The fixture itself is built into a cabinet and the
electrical guts are inside a cavity. The back of the cabinet would have
to be removed to get to them.

The fluorescent bulb which has burned out looks like any American style
bulb except that it has just one nubby electrode at each end instead of
two pins. A standard 21 inch, American style, two pin fluorescent bulb
will fit in this fixture, but it flickers and gets extremely hot at the
ends. I've called a couple of light bulb suppliers in the area and
neither was able to help. I have an email in to Technico Marine,
http://www.technicomarine.com/ and I'm waiting for a reply. If you have
any suggestions on where else to go for this bulb, please post.

Thanks...

 

[Mike Tomlinson]

In article <g04r9k$75c$1@registered.motzarella.org>, Baron <baron.nospam
@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> writes

You might try to charge the batteries with a conventional charger or
variable power supply for an hour or so at a low current then replace
them in the unit.

Its unlikely that it will work.

It does; I've done it many times. An electronic charger, one that
monitors the charging current, is needed, and if you have one that has a
setting/switch for "Maintenance Free" (i.e. sealed) type, so much the
better.

You don't need to aim for a full charge; just enough to allow the UPS to
initialise, then it will continue charging as required.

--
(\__/) Bunny says NO to Windows Vista!
(='.'=) http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~pgut001/pubs/vista_cost.html
(")_(") http://www.cypherpunks.to/~peter/vista.pdf