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[Sam Goldwasser]

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> writes:

Sam Goldwasser <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wmymlev8z.fsf_-_@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> writes:

Sam Goldwasser <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wve1ae5t7.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...
This is a (now obsolete I assume) 64/256 1+ GHz prescaler in a 14 pin
DIP.

Any leads other than what Google turns up for places that will take
an arm, leg, and your first and second born in exchange for locating
a 100,000 of them and probably won't return email about quantity 1.

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Data including full die schematic in 1986 RCA databook

Yep, have that (or equivalent):

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ct125/CA3179G.pdf

Had to twist Google's arm to get that.

This is in reference to the Ramsey CT-125 frequency counter I asked
about in another thread.

The CA3179G may be working fine but tends to oscillate if there is no or
low
input, or the input frequency is below about 2 MHz. Someone else with
the same counter described a similar behavior so it may simply be normal
for the chip, or the mediocre design and layout of the counter PCB.

But the sensitivity of the input is also way too low (requires about 1 V,
spec calls for a few dozen mV), so this could be related to the prescaler,
or to the input transistor, though that seems to work.

The CA3179G is socketed so it would be nice to be able to simply swap in
another one to see if anything changes. (Yes, I know, a socketed part in
a GHz circuit isn't the greatest, but the wet finger test doesn't turn
up any obvious effects).

I have a directory with the Ramsey info including schematics (thanks to
someone on this NG):

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ct125/

I don't guarantee this link will remain forever, so get'em while you can!

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Can you be sure the socket is original?

Datasheet shows Smith chart and (quasi?) microstrip layout and certainly no
socket.

How about removing the socket and minimally soldering IC to board and see
what happens. > 3 pins are n/c anyway

I know. I'm a bit impressed that it works at all on a normal PCB with
mediocre layout and minimial bypassing.

There are a lot of things that probably should be done.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[ctops.legal]

On May 15, 3:20 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:

"ctops.legal" wrote:

Hey I will just buy the interface cable and go into the interface
hardware that's the easy way, all the reading don't get to the problem
ALWAYS find a simple way, I guess the caveman had to break a s**tload
of rocks before he found one that would roll, thanks guys.

ctops.legal

  Idiot.

--http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account:http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

Come on now "Idiot. " that was uncalled for, see 1. our internet
signal is different than most of the rest of Comcast's other customers
in other parts of the US, we get a we get a TPV 6 (TPT/IPv6) Ethernet,
with a max dl @ 900 kbs, USB configuration is about 1/2 of that, 10
years ago the area got a non-Fiber-optic cable it's somethins else
similar but not the same, USB to wireless is about 2 times the dl rate
as dial-up, I am going to talk to a guy everybody knows around here
called Doc. he can build anything electronic, thanks guys I just
wanted to find out some simple information not start a argument over
USB v Ethernet/wireless.

ctops.legal

 

[webpa]

On May 20, 3:39 am, Senin <se...@inbox.com> wrote:

My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages back?

No. Your unit does not use tape to record messages. It uses digital
memory devices. Only under the most extraordinary circumstances would
there be a non-zero chance of recovering anything. If those
circumstances existed, I'm sure you'd have mentioned them.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"ctops.legal" wrote:

On May 15, 3:20 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net
wrote:
"ctops.legal" wrote:

Hey I will just buy the interface cable and go into the interface
hardware that's the easy way, all the reading don't get to the problem
ALWAYS find a simple way, I guess the caveman had to break a s**tload
of rocks before he found one that would roll, thanks guys.

ctops.legal

Idiot.

Come on now "Idiot.

Yes. Idiot. I pointed you to the resources required to design a USB
product, and you ignored them. Making a wheel from a rock was a lot
easier. You didn't have to pay anyone for the right to use it after you
made it, either.

" that was uncalled for, see 1. our internet
signal is different than most of the rest of Comcast's other customers
in other parts of the US, we get a we get a TPV 6 (TPT/IPv6) Ethernet,
with a max dl @ 900 kbs, USB configuration is about 1/2 of that, 10
years ago the area got a non-Fiber-optic cable it's somethins else
similar but not the same, USB to wireless is about 2 times the dl rate
as dial-up, I am going to talk to a guy everybody knows around here
called Doc. he can build anything electronic, thanks guys I just
wanted to find out some simple information not start a argument over
USB v Ethernet/wireless.

ctops.legal

Want to bet? You have to pay a fee to register a USB device, sign
"Non Disclosure Agreements" and pay for the development tools. Unless he
is already designing USB products that is a very big NRE. I spent years
in electronic design and manufacturing, and saw what an expensive mess
USB product development was. For a one off you are better off to buy
something. If you think you an build and sell a million units for less
than the Chinese, you are truly insane.

As far as your lame caveman comment: You're watching way too many
Geico commercials. It reminds me of Gary Larson's 'Farside' caveman
plumber cartoon. There are two cavemen looking into a hole, and a roll
of toilet paper is on a stick. One caveman says to the other, "Ug! This
not be cheap!"


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[James Sweet]

dBc wrote:

Greetings..

Regarding:
"| Doorbell transformers are often located in the attic."

True! Also, all too often all but forgotten about as they create RFI
havoc for nearby radio amateurs / SWL etc.! Trying to get the neighbor
or business to be cooperative to replace this crude RF transmitter
can, and often IS, quite a challenge!

Usually brought to you by the sheer ignorance of a fellow home or
business owner that "didn't know" such things could ever happen..

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"bz" <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9A9DC1EFF530EWQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139...
| dave@hurtle.com wrote in news:0c3c37fc-f6f1-4f44-9b9e-a93cdb18f78b@
| 27g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:
|
| > OK. I popped the cover off the control panel outside to have a
look.
| > At some point the control module was replaced with a Lee Dan
PK-543.
| > Well it looks like they still make them if this is the problem.
The
| > only other possible problem could be the transformer which kicks
the
| > voltage down to 16 VAC to run the module.
|
| > Now here's a dumb question. Where would this transformer be
located?
| > It's not behind the control panel outside. I looked around the
| > basement by the circuit breakers/cable/phone lines and couldn't
find
| > it there either. Any suggestions where to look?
|
| Doorbell transformers are often located in the attic.
|

Is that legal?

Mine is on the wall in the garage, I've also seen them in closets, never
seen one in the attic.

 

[James Sweet]

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages back?
Well, it has been shown recently that RAM chips can be read after removing
them from a switched off computer, and the data retrieved. This is usually
done by cooling the chips with liquid nitrogen before removal. The memory
holds the data long enough to be read off the chips, despite current
beliefs/data about how long memory chips keep their data. (often a few
minutes after the machine has shut down - much longer if cooled down).

This has quite serious implications as far as computer security is
concerned, as the RAM often contains copies of any data that was last used,
and is often not encryted, despite any encryption used in the machine.
(This is an oversight of some encryption systems I believe)

In your case it may be possible to remove the memory chips and copy them,
then you would need some sort of undelete software, and you may be able to
get your messages back. But somehow I don't think you are going to try
that.

Gareth.


The messages are stored in flash memory which is EEROM, not RAM.

Mine uses RAM, there's a 9V battery backp, lose that and all the
incoming and outgoing messages are lost. I finally modified it with a
resistor to charge a 9V NiCd battery.

 

[clifto]

Brian wrote:

The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

Keep an eye on that thing. DO google the SmartUPS 700 for experience stories.
If the batteries ever significantly discharge (i.e. more than a few minutes
off mains), I highly recommend you put new ones in rather than trust the
used ones, based on my experience. Mine is off line and scheduled for
destruction and recycling.

--
And no, no one can have it. You'd sue me when it goes bad again.

 

[James Sweet]

clifto wrote:

Brian wrote:
The UPS then worked normally! So yes, as the early responders answered,
it was simply dead batteries. Will recycle the old ones, and keep the
UPS plugged-in continuously so that hopefully these new batteries will
last a long time.

Keep an eye on that thing. DO google the SmartUPS 700 for experience stories.
If the batteries ever significantly discharge (i.e. more than a few minutes
off mains), I highly recommend you put new ones in rather than trust the
used ones, based on my experience. Mine is off line and scheduled for
destruction and recycling.

I'd buy it. Nothing that a few mods can't correct.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

James Sweet wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Senin" <senin@inbox.com> wrote in message
news:c69e4436-bf8d-4d0f-bfa2-21d016c6b79d@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
My housekeeper accidentally deleted all the messages (including my 2
year old daughter's) from my Uniden 900 MHz 378 series telephone
answering machine. Any possibible way of getting those messages back?
Well, it has been shown recently that RAM chips can be read after removing
them from a switched off computer, and the data retrieved. This is usually
done by cooling the chips with liquid nitrogen before removal. The memory
holds the data long enough to be read off the chips, despite current
beliefs/data about how long memory chips keep their data. (often a few
minutes after the machine has shut down - much longer if cooled down).

This has quite serious implications as far as computer security is
concerned, as the RAM often contains copies of any data that was last used,
and is often not encryted, despite any encryption used in the machine.
(This is an oversight of some encryption systems I believe)

In your case it may be possible to remove the memory chips and copy them,
then you would need some sort of undelete software, and you may be able to
get your messages back. But somehow I don't think you are going to try
that.

Gareth.


The messages are stored in flash memory which is EEROM, not RAM.



Mine uses RAM, there's a 9V battery backp, lose that and all the
incoming and outgoing messages are lost. I finally modified it with a
resistor to charge a 9V NiCd battery.

I've never seen that, but I have salvaged several flash memory chips
form physically damaged units. Any idea when yours was built?


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"ctops.legal" wrote:

Well I hate to say it but google searchs bring people to discussions,
I have never found a good news client N/B Pro is good binary files
client, but as far as posting I have yet to find a client that will
allow anonymous posting, you know one ?

I've never looked for one. BTW, Google isn't anonymous. A couple
phone calls, and they will reveal your information to the police.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[Eeyore]

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

Eeyore writes:
gareth magennis wrote:
"orange" wrote in message

Is it safe to keep the CMOS chips (RAM) in plastic box?
if not, can it be modified to be safe somehow, I just don't have any
alternative..

Wrap some aluminium foil around a small piece of expanded polystyrene, then
you can just push the chips into the sandwich and keep the lot in a plastic
box. The foil shorts all the pins together so there can be no potential
difference between any.

Aluminium foil is a BAD idea. In the event that there is any appreciable charge
on a given pin, pushing it into aluminium foil will discharge it *quickly* and

And how would this occur?

Because the ali foil provides essentially a short circuit path.

the resulting current may kill it.

Always use high resistance material for storing ICs like the anyi-static black
foam material. This allows any charge to 'leak' away slowly and safely.

Aluminum foil is fine. The black stuff has a relatively low resistance
anyhow. Check it with an ohmmeter.

I have many times. You're plain wrong or using the wrong grade foam.

Graham

 

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[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On May 22, 9:45 pm, b e <bill.engelm...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have Sony projection tv that has been moved three times.  The first
time is was moved a color gun went out.  It was under an extended
warranty at that time and was replaced and worked perfectly after
that.  One year ago I moved again.  A month or two after moving the
set began to go from an excellent picture to a very dark picture.  The
color does not change but everything becomes much darker.  I have
changed all settings to the brightest and sharpest.  I don't know if
this is something a layman can fix or if I have to have a professional
do the work.  I would appreciate any incite someone could give.  Thank
you in advance.

You do not say how old the set is or a model number, But, if it was a
month after moving that the picture started to get darker, I doubt
that the moving had anything to do with the problem. That would have
shown up immediately.

If you have increased the brightness to its maximum, there is nothing
more that you can do. If the set is more than a few years old, it
will probably cost more to fix than to by a new LCD set.

Bob Hofmann

 

[Allen]

On Fri, 23 May 2008 11:27:33 +0200, Gareth Magennis
<sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:

I'm sorry if you think that I think all White South Africans think the
same.
The tone of this posters reply just doesn't sound like it comes from
Europe
or North America, so I made a joke, attempting to make fun of this
ludicrous
and outdated type of predudice.
I have met some "privileged" White South Africans, not many, but was
quite
astounded to hear certain attitudes that seem to be buried in the
culture,
that you just don't hear in Europe. Similarly, I have met quite a lot
more
Israelis while travelling in India, and again was astounded to hear
certain
attitudes toward whole races of people, not least the Indians whose
country
they were a guest in.
Now that is not to say that I think all Israelis have a bad attitude,
but if
I hear a similar attitude from someone, I may liken it to the attitudes I
have experienced when meeting travelling Israelis, or White South
Africans
for that matter. In this case I heard something and made a joke about
it, I
didn't mean to offend anyone, except those with thise sort of attitudes.

I know the British also have some very arrogant attitudes, and I have to
say
that when I am abroad, I am often embarrassed to be British, to the point
where I avoid other British people. I think "we" deserve any jokes you
can
throw at us to be perfectly frank.

I dunno, humour is humour. There's a great debate about whether
Holocaust
jokes are acceptable or not, or at what point do we say "now it's OK to
make
the joke, last week it wasn't".


Gareth.

Ah don't stress: it's been 24 hours, I'm over it! I find people who moan
about being victims of racial stereotyping extremely tiresome and now
I'm one of them. I also happen to believe that *ism is a natural state of
mind for ALL human beings, and we have to work very hard to overcome it.
And finally, I didn't have such a shitty day at the office today, so I'm
less
likely to go looking for things to be offended at

And now that we're friends again, let's drop the subject - don't wanna hurt
the groups signal-noise ratio anymore than I already have.

 

[UCLAN]

Consider:
I've already emailed Sony customer service *and* the western service
facility in Los Angeles. No reply. That's why I asked here and on the
VCR newsgroup. Thanks for your suggestions.

dBc wrote:

Greetings UCLAN..

The question can still be posed to the good folks at Sony Service out
in San Jose or L.A., CA. as I recall. Writing them with your questions
should reveal an answer hopefully, before Christmas. Maybe MUCH
sooner..

Consider:
http://pro.sony.com/bbsc/ssr/services.servicesprograms.bbsccms-services-servicesprograms-servicecenterlocations.shtml

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor

 

[NoSp]

I'm repairing an LCD display and metallic tape is used in several
places, as shown in these photos marked "sticky foil":
http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2007/12/09/replace-laptop-backlight-ccfl-lamp/

There are several types of "metallic tape" or "aluminum tape" in the
market, but I'm not sure what kind of characteristics I'm looking for,
and I really don't know what the LCD display needs it for anyway
-reducing electromagnetic and radio interference and taking away heat?

I first thought the tape should be electrical conductive, but using a
continuity testing function in a multimeter this seems not to be the
case. So what am I looking for?
Will this do?:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110254391809

 

[NoSp]

Andy Cuffe wrote:

On Tue, 20 May 2008 23:54:45 +0200, NoSp <none@none.none> wrote:

What would be the best way to go about removing the white tape so as to
be able to unclip the metal frame from it?

You can either cut it, or peel it off. Just be careful not to cut the
ribbon cables. When you reassemble it, use some scotch tape to
reattach it.

I finally managed to work it out, thanks to the following web page
(http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2007/12/09/replace-laptop-backlight-ccfl-lamp/)
some guessing and a lot of patience.
I had to remove 2 groups of layers (with 2 sheets each) consisting of
various kinds of plastic -transparent, shiny, white etc. to get to the
CCFL, but I left the glassy LCD section alone. I haven't even removed
it, but only slightly lifted up from the metal frame. I put a soft piece
of cloth between, so I can easily put it together again, but don't dare
move it around etc.

Does the LCD itself come in one piece, or can it fall apart into several
different "sheets" if you mess with it?

In any case I took the utmost care with the ribbon cables, so I think it
should be OK.

The manufacturers sure make it hard for people to replace CCFLs -I'm
sure they could design it much better if they wanted, but they probably
just want to sell new LCDs instead. Talk about unnecessary environmental
waste and production.

 

[Jamie]

JR North wrote:

The speakers will not be common ground in this radio. Connecting them
that way may blow the radio. The mystrey wire on plug 1 is probably
+12V out for a power antanna drive.
JR

Or, to turn on a remote amp.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

On 23 May, 10:34, schn...@btinternet.com wrote:

On 22 May, 22:27, Franc Zabkar <fzab...@iinternode.on.net> wrote:



On Wed, 21 May 2008 08:15:15 -0700 (PDT), schn...@btinternet.com put
finger to keyboard and composed:

On 21 May, 12:59, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
In article
e4fe7d1b-3c7c-4d68-9a57-181035277...@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
schn...@btinternet.com> wrote:

I have aNokia6500Classicmobile/cellular phone. It has a mini USB
connector to plug in both the charger or accessories such as a stereo
headset. The suppliedNokiaheadset works fine, but is simply not a
very good design.
I tried eBay for several different third party connectors and have now
tried four, including eventuallyNokia'sown AD-55 mini USB adapter
and none of them work. When you plug headphones into them, they all
say "Connected device takes too much power - please disconnect".

Only guessing, but USB spec doesn't include analogue signals - just digits
and DC. So again I'd guess theNokiaunit includes electronics.

--
*Cover me. I'm changing lanes.

Dave Plowman d...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

You're right Dave - theNokiaunit which works does include
electronics. There's a microphone piece as well as a dial to change
volume, and a button to advance track number.

Does this document..

http://sw.nokia.com/id/596e3800-879f-4ae4-a599-8bbbef14f2d4/Series_40...

..clarify for your whether any mini-USB attachment with a 3.5mm stereo
adapter would require some electronics in-between to convert a digital
to analogue signal? That's assuming I've understood what you suggest
the problem might be.

You may be able to find your cable pinouts here:http://pinouts.ru/connector/4_pin_USB_A_or_USB_B_plug_connector.shtml...

To convince yourself that your adapter is a digital device, you could
connect it to your PC with an appropriate cable and then use
Microsoft's UVCView.exe or usbview.exe to display the device
characteristics. I'm assuming that your adapter would not be a host.
If it is a host, then the above won't work.

I'm using Windows 98SE. In Control Panel's Device Manager, under the
Power properties for the USB Root Hub, I see that my USB flash drive
reports that it requires 100mA max current. I'm not sure, but I
suspect that Win XP may be able to report the actual current draw.

UVCView and Usbview both report that my USB phone is bus powered and
requires 200mA MaxPower. These utilities may also be able to tell you
who is the real manufacturer of your devices.

If you can't find the above utilities, contact me via email.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks Franc - this looks helpful. I'll try it tonight and will
report my findings back here.

As an aside, I'm fairly sure from what I've read onNokia
documentation that theNokia6500Classiccan do both a host and non-
host mode. That might not be important, but I've mentioned it just in
case.

Okay, well here are what the two programs reported. Does this give
any indication to a solution?

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5928/nokia6500classicuvcviewcz9.jpg
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/5749/nokia6500classicusbviewdg7.jpg

All help or suggestions gratefully appreciated,

schnide