APC Smart-UPS does nothing after non-use

[James Sweet]

I don't want the OP to blow himself up either but a small current applied
long enough to boost the voltage up to where the APC will charge them is
fairly innocuous. The Smart UPS 700 was a very popular small server backup
solution several years ago and I have experimented with them and their
batteries without causing death or dismemberment. And I would tend to
disagree with you regarding the fragility of lead-acid batteries in
general. They are exposed to some pretty harsh environmental conditions
every day in automotive and industrial use.

They can hold up to a tremendous amount of abuse, but deep discharging
will kill them just about every time.

 

[powerseed via Electronics]

Hi Sam...really appreciate your time and input!

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

First things to do would be to confirm

(1) that the serial port adapter has installed properly.

I don't have access to another PC w/ a serial port and am not a programmer
with familiarity with terminal mode (what can you expect from a clueless mac
user . I am pretty confident tho that this is a tablet problem as you may
concur after reading my following responses.

(2) that the tablet is actually outputting something on the serial port.

Serial port switches set to mfr's defaults re handshake, etc. I am also non
compos mentis when it comes to troubleshooting electronics but it did give it
a shot. I have a cheapo R. Shack digital auto-ranging digital multimeter
(that produces wandering phantom readings when not connected to a live
circuit). I tried to document output from the DB9 female on the serial
adapter with the board powered up. Nada when I put the black lead on P5
signal ground and the pos on P2 (during this test I was moving the puck and
pressing buttons as well). When I tested P5 and P2 it would momentarily show
0 volts as I was moving and clicking then it begin its up and down wandering
again???

(3) that the cable has pins 2 and 3 swapped, or not swapped as required.

I'm not using a serial cable...DB25 female plug to male DB25/female DB9
adapter to DB9/USB adapter to USB cable to PC

When connected correctly, there should probably be a negative voltage
on both pins 2 and 3 with respect to pin 5. If incorrect, then
there will be a voltage on only one of those pins.

See above...and my responses to Frank Zabkar in this thread.

My best,

Bill Curry

--
Message posted via http://www.electronicskb.com

 

[James Sweet]

Bill wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 18:40:09 +0000, James Sweet wrote:

Bill wrote:
I have an RCA g35302wk that has been a great TV for a number of years.
Recently it started doing this funky thing where the picture would
collapse and you are left with a thin horizontal line all the way across
the screen. The line is very bright, and the television still has audio
when this happens. At first if you turned the TV off for a few minutes
then back on the picture would clear up and it would be ok for a random
amount of time, between about 1/2 hour and 2 hours. One morning though
it went into the collapsed state and has been stuck there ever since. I
found very little repair infor for this TV on the internet, one page
said to replace U3101 (210736), U3200 (209956) and microprocessor. But I
dont think that is causing this issue. Can anyone give me any tips on
anything else that may be causing this picture collapse? I did replace
the power supply about 2 years ago. I am skilled in electronics and do
have experience with HV systems, I just do not know where to being
looking. I know the NEW HD world is coming up, but I would love to keep
this TV going if it can be fixed without much trouble.

Thanks in Advance,
Bill



This is simple, you've got a cracked solder joint in the vertical output
section, possibly a bad vertical output driver but usually it's just the
soldering. Don't run it like that, it'll burn the phosphors in the tube.
If you've got any electronics skills at all this should be a really easy
fix. It's easier to do it when the problem is still intermittent as you
can tap stuff with the set running to narrow it down.

I have not been running it this way. Currently I have a litte 20" sitting
on top of that one so I can atleast watch the news. I thought it might be
a cracked solder joint. But I wanted to see if there was any info on the
internet first, thats where I came up on the replacement of the components
listed above. But when I looked at the schematic and it listed one of
those as an EEPROM I figured I would try to find the info somewhere else.
I will check for the cracked solder joints and let the group know the
outcome.

Thanks A Ton,
Bill

The EEPROM is probably still fine. I forgot to mention, while you're in
there you should resolder the tuner shield grounds if this is one of the
sets affected by that. It'll prevent future issues.

 

[James Sweet]

phil-news-nospam@ipal.net wrote:

In alt.engineering.electrical Tzortzakakis Dimitrios <noone@nospam.void> wrote:

| A shame that Tesla won the infamous "battle" and we don't have DC:-() But
| then, we would be having a power plant at each neighborhood, instead of the
| 300 MW ones.

And the latter make easy terrorism targets, too.


| I know, I know, my answer was a bit provocative And of course there are
| DC regulators.... You're talking about DC generators;the one a 300 MW uses
| for excitation is 220 V, 1000 A DC and probably shunt field. I have seen
| here in some machine shops the old type welding generator, which is a 3
| phase induction motor coupled to (usually) a compound field DC generator,
| which provides the welding current. The modern ones are, maybe, not larger
| than a shoe box and powered by a higher wattage 230 V 16 A receptacle.
| (Usual receptacles are 230 V 10 A;16 A for washing machines, dryers and the
| like).

You don't use 400 V for anything heavy duty like an oven?

In North America, 240V 50A is pretty standard for ovens, some are 40A,
clothes dryers are 30A, most other stuff plugs into a 15A 120V receptacle.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:21:45 -0700, JR North
<junkjasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

So, I tore it down, and here is a link to a page I made
showing the main board.

http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/sony.html

I need help identifying these electrolytics. They are SMT, and I
don't quite understand some of the marks.

Y1 = 22uF 6Volts
Z1P = 33uF 10V
X = 10uF 16V & 2.2uF 35V
Y2 = 33uF 4V
1Z50 = 1uF 50V
220/4s/4t0 could be 220uF 4V

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[JeffM]

vinhkan wrote:

What are the benefits of using a permanent magnet for a coil core.

Your use of Usenet
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?enc_author=PPty2hYAAACMqG273ADuJvt-JkA5nW4iK5_ckrHRAYuDYR832hY26Q&scoring=d
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=permanent-magnets-as-coil-cores&scoring=d&filter=0

needs improvement.
http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:qHhBKJ-sXKYJ:en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-post+adequately.answered+corrected+with.commas+individually+Disclaimers+*-*-*-marked-as-Read-in-ALL-*-groups+Newsgroups.line
More here:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.basics/browse_frm/thread/7b7c0624331012bb/3958f18673b5f374?q=EVERY-group-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-appear+*-proper-answer-*-*-*-given+much-easier-*-*-*-*-*-*-*+*-frowned-on+*-correcting+*-Followup-To-*+*-*-_perfect_-*-*-*-*+*-*-*-too-lazy-*-*-*-*-*-appropriate-*+*-polite-*-mention-*-*-*-*-*-*-*+Just-because-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-does-not-mean-*-*-*-*-*-*+mark-*-*-*-*-all-*-groups+*-*-*-*-two-groups-*-*-aren't-*-different
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.basics/browse_frm/thread/7b7c0624331012bb/9bba213e1c4c044f?q=EVERY-group-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-appear+*-proper-answer-*-*-*-given+much-easier-*-*-*-*-*-*-*+*-frowned-on+*-correcting+*-Followup-To-*+*-*-_perfect_-*-*-*-*+*-*-*-too-lazy-*-*-*-*-*-appropriate-*+*-polite-*-mention-*-*-*-*-*-*-*+Just-because-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-does-not-mean-*-*-*-*-*-*+mark-*-*-*-*-all-*-groups+*-*-*-*-two-groups-*-*-aren't-*-different

 

[Brian]

James Sweet wrote:

They can hold up to a tremendous amount of abuse, but deep discharging
will kill them just about every time.

And the result is ...

They wouldn't even start to take a charge. My trickle charge reported
both were fully charged, even though they were totally dead. Even a
couple of hours on each wouldn't make them budge.

So, time for some new batteries. The originals were made in China.
Will hopefully remember to post whether the new batteries fixed the unit.

-Brian

P.S. There are four small-matchbox size black boxes on the unit's PCB.
I think they are relays. My guess would be that the batteries must
have some juice to keep one of these relays closed -- and that relay
admits line voltage to the entire device. Would explain the total
non-response from the UPS when plugged in with dead batteries.

 

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[powerseed via Electronics]

Franc Zabkar wrote:

**The tablet came sans power supply. Based on the specs I picked up a 12volt,
1 amp supply. Manual says mfr's p.s. must be used or wtty is void. Is this a
possible issue?

Page 15 of the manual states that the tablet needs a 12V ***AC*** 1A
power supply. Instead you have provided a 12V ***DC*** 1A power pack.

Oye-- How dumb is that!!! So this is just a step-down transformer!! I thought
all the bricks were AC to DC. Do you think using 12v DC could have hurt the
board? Or that it could be the source of my problems??? Not many of these
supplies out there. Did find one with a 3' cord though that I will pick up.

**I note there are what appear to be contact tabs (labeled +12v AC, -12v,
+12v, +5v, DIG GND, DIG GND) at the bottom right (plan view). Are these for
test fixture powering?

Maybe. Measure them with a multimeter. I'm betting that the +12VAC
(???) and -12V rails will be missing. The -12V is required by the
tablet's serial port, and possibly by the analogue circuitry for the
digitizing surface, and for various op-amps.

Didn't get any current when board was plugged into my !@$#$@% power supply--
perhaps AC will make a difference.

I'm betting that the 2-tones error indicates a problem with the
analogue circuitry.

I also saw at p. 40 of the UG that there are THREE MG3TEST diagnostic tests:
RAM, X-axis, and Y-axis--perhaps corresponding to the 3 tones??? Or not! If
so tho, might suggest Y-axis circuitry.

If you get your MG3 working, I would still run the MG3TEST. I've seen
lots of tablets with dead spots on the surface, usually caused by dry
solder joints, or bad driver chips (yours appears to use the ULN2003
chips).

One ULN2003...along with six UDN2595-A dips which I think are drivers.

BTW, if you ever need any spare ICs, keep me in mind. I have a lot of
chips of that era ... somewhere. You'll just need to pay for postage
from Australia. I also have a new unused 4-button Summagraphics puck,
but that cost me money.

Will keep all that in mind!

Thanks!

--
Message posted via ElectronicsKB.com
http://www.electronicskb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/repair/200805/1

 

4iXijiiaHCsDvCsO+/vS4uLuKZpeKZpS4uLi4=?=
From: sharal <000000susmita@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 20:16:35 -0700 (PDT)
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Gecko/20080404 Firefox/2.0.0.14,gzip(gfe),gzip(gfe)
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[PeterD]

On Tue, 13 May 2008 01:16:09 -0700 (PDT),
"captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:

I use Internet Explorer as my web access for my business. We are in
sales and we all work on commisions here based on the leads we
generate. So privacy is very important. Computer access is shared
among employees. My search procedure is that I usually just go to
google or dogpile and type in the word of the site I'm looking for and
when I'm shown a list I click on it and it takes me there. There is
never a record of the visit stored on Google so I always felt that
this is a secure way to search. However, I just noticed that most
computers keeps a running memory of which sites have been visited in
the address bar. I noticed this quite by accident when attempting to
type an address in the address bar and as soon as I typed so much as
www, a list of things came up. Further, if I type www.s for instance
every site beginning with s that has been visited comes up. I've gone
into Internet options and deleted cookies and offline content. The
addresses remained until I cleared history. However that clears
everything else as well. What I am asking is this. If I go to a
computer that has an existing history on it and I visit a site, can I
make it so that there is no record of my visit yet retain all the
existing sites in the computer's history? This is very important to
me as the security of my job may depend on it. Thanks, John.

It is very difficult to erase completely visits to the porn sites you
are visiting...

 

[Dick]

Although I mentioned that you "could" combine the two antennas into
one lead, the reason you may not want to is something called
"ghosting." The two antennas will be receiving the same stations,
although not from the same direction. Signals can bounce off
mountains, etc. and you will get two signals of the same station
arriving at your TV at two different times, even though they are of
different signal strength. This causes your picture to have a ghost
appearance. For that reason, I would run separate coax leads from the
two antennas and forget the switch.

Dick


On Tue, 13 May 2008 15:16:56 -0700 (PDT), Jerry
<jerry_maple@hotmail.com> wrote:

I was thinking to do the following to switch between analog and
digital reception. Connect the antenna lead from the roof to the input
of an A-B switch (3 bucks at Frys Electronics). Connect the A output
of the switch to the RF input on the TV, use normal TV analog tuner
for the analog repeater stations. Connect the B output of the switch
to the RF input of the digital converter, connect the AV outputs of
the converter to the AV inputs of the TV, set the TV to AV In. Is that
going to work?

Thanks in advance for any helpful hints,
Jerry

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

 

[Jerry]

On May 13, 4:32 pm, Dick <w6...@k7yca.org> wrote:

Combining the coax output of the two antennas into a common splitter,
then one coax to the switch should work OK as long as the signals are
realatively strong.  If not, you can always put an amplifier in the
line.  Both can be purchased at Radio Shack.

Instead of using a splitter and a switch, you would be better off just
running the individual antenna leads to the digital box and TV.  Then
you would only be switching the TV, and not the TV and switch every
time you wanted to change from digital to analog.

Dick - In view of Mingus Mountain

We're in the Mund's Park area, already have an amplifier inline, Flag
Channel 2 comes in REAL strong, but even with the amplifier the
repeater stations on Mingus Mountain are usually kinda snowy. Think my
antenna is pointed more or less in the general direction of Mingus
Mt., but now that I got the azimuth off the TVFool website, I'll have
to get back up on the roof and point the antenna a little better. We
were up there for the weekend a few weeks ago, brought the digital
converter along to try it, was able to pick up digital signals for AZ-
TV and Telefutura, hope I can do a little better than that with
another antenna.

Jerry

 

[krw]

In article <Xns9AA04BA6F2C05WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139>,
bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu says...

NameNotImportant <Dont@sk.com> wrote in
news:CfWdnQNR9cg0wbHVnZ2dnUVZ_rTinZ2d@earthlink.com:

lbm?

I'm not sure on your units.

pounds (mass), lbm, as opposed to pounds (force), lbf, or lb.

It is necessary to distinguish between mass and force but they are both
measured in pounds in the english system.

The "English" system uses the "stone" as the measurement of mass.
The pound ('lb') is the unit of *FORCE*.

Metric is 'much simpler' with grams(mass) and newtons(force).

Evidently *you* think the "English" system is too complicated. ;-)

--
Keith

 

[krw]

In article <4fa0724480charles@charleshope.demon.co.uk>,
charles@charleshope.demon.co.uk says...

In article <MPG.2297621d47f3215f989c18@news.individual.net>,
krw <krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
In article <Xns9AA04BA6F2C05WQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139>,
bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu says...
NameNotImportant <Dont@sk.com> wrote in
news:CfWdnQNR9cg0wbHVnZ2dnUVZ_rTinZ2d@earthlink.com:

lbm?

I'm not sure on your units.

pounds (mass), lbm, as opposed to pounds (force), lbf, or lb.

It is necessary to distinguish between mass and force but they are both
measured in pounds in the english system.

The "English" system uses the "stone" as the measurement of mass.
The pound ('lb') is the unit of *FORCE*.

The 'Stone' is a unit of mass, not "The unit of mass"

It is *the* unit of mass. The pound-mass is a recent abortion.

All the engineering I ever learned in the British (Imperial) system used
pounds.

You must be a kid.

Metric is 'much simpler' with grams(mass) and newtons(force).

No - the modern Metric system uses the kilogramme as its fundamental unit.

Only if you spell funny.

--
Keith

 

[Clint Sharp]

In message <4fa116a533dave@davenoise.co.uk>, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> writes

As I said I don't think it's actually a thermal issue as the heatsink
isn't even hot when it shuts down. And it can happen so quickly after
switching on from cold that the CPU wouldn't have time to overheat.
You'd be amazed how quickly a modern CPU heats up, don't forget these

things are dissipating massive amounts of power given their size (some
of the Athlon XP64 chips, 90 watts for a die that's smaller than your
little fingernail), if the heatsink isn't on correctly or not making
good contact you can have an overheating chip by the time it's started
to display POST.

Interesting read;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_power_dissipation

Having said that, one of my systems occasionally shuts down because the
BIOS reports the CPU temperature as over 90C on the first power on of
the day, it's lying.

Had I needed it at this time then that would have been my approach. And I
do have a new MB, CPU and memory standing buy - it arrived on Friday. But
it will need a complete re-install of everything so I'm putting it off
until forced. ;-)
Hmm, unless your software is locked to the current system for licensing

reasons it's rarely necessary to do a full reinstall, you just need to
know how to wave the magic chicken correctly and reactivate Windows once
the new stuff is installed.
--
Clint Sharp

 

[Baron]

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article <g0pd7p$psi$1@registered.motzarella.org>,
Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:
Indeed. Although it's working fine at the moment. And my experience
with PCs is that they can *all* fall over at any time. ;-)
Dave,
Did you try replacing the PSU ?

Yes - it was my first thought.

Thanks ! I couldn't remember if you had or not.

I possible answer: Some time back I had problems with a machine that
kept shutting down shortly after boot. No O/S just a boot floppy.
The only clue initially was that if you restarted the machine straight
away the time to shut down got less.

It turned out that the voltage regulator for the CPU simply couldn't
hold the CPU voltage at 1.65volts and over a few seconds the voltage
rose upto 2.25volts at which point the PSU got switched off.

The cure was replacement of the six capacitors in the CPU PSU circuit.
Non were bulged or swollen, no visible signs of damage. All the caps
exhibited ESR's around 10 to 15 ohms.

However prior to its failure the machine showed symptoms similar to
yours !

HTH.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.

 

[NoSp]

My laptop's display backlight has been fading since I bought it a few
years ago, so I think it's about time I exchange the CCFL backlight with
a new one. The LCD in question is a Samsung LTN152W6-L01.

I've been trying to follow the instructions at sites such as
lcdparts.net, but there aren't any instructions for my particular LCD.
I've never disassembled an LCD before, so I'm a little worried that I'll
do something wrong.
Here are a couple of photos I've taken of my LCD:

http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung1sr9.jpg
http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung2gc1.jpg

There's a warning at the top saying I shouldn't touch the white tape.
Does this mean the white tape shouldn't be *removed*?
I've read somewhere that if you apply pressure unevenly to the LCD panel
you'll get lines and other abnomalities in the display (I assume the
white tape has been applied for even pressure all across the LCD panel).

The problem is that it seems (at least according to what I've read
online) that I need to remove the metal frame around the LCD panel in
order to expose the CCFL backlight -is this correct?
Unfortunately the white tape extends beyond the metal frame, so if I
shouldn't remove it what do I do?

The second photo shows the metal bracket removed. It's the only one I
could remove without removing the white tape as well, and the backlight
is found underneath. Is there a neat way to remove the CCFL without
removing the whole frame?

 

[JeffM]

bud.iaauction@ gmail.com wrote:
We have been operating in Michigan for about 30 years
and have decided to throw in the towel[...]
Most auction lots will be starting between $5 & $100 with no reserve.

jakdedert wrote:
I always get aggravated at the term 'no reserve'
when there's a minimum price.

As he has apparently never before posted to Usenet
and his first time he multi-posts this spew all over the place,
it's obvious he's just another sewer rat.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 19 May 2008 02:28:05 +0200, NoSp <none@none.none> wrote:

My laptop's display backlight has been fading since I bought it a few
years ago, so I think it's about time I exchange the CCFL backlight with
a new one. The LCD in question is a Samsung LTN152W6-L01.

Hmmm... Did you look at the inverter output with a scope before you
decided that it was the CCFL lamp? It could easily be the inverter.
However, as the fading took several years, it's most likely the CCFL
lamps. Still, I would measure the inverter output.

I've been trying to follow the instructions at sites such as
lcdparts.net, but there aren't any instructions for my particular LCD.

This one?
<http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/ccflinstallation.aspx>
Looks clear enough to me, but the English sucks. Basically, don't
touch, tweak, bend, or even move the row and column driver contacts.

I've never disassembled an LCD before, so I'm a little worried that I'll
do something wrong.

You can go to almost any PC repair shop or eecycling center, and get a
dead LCD panel with which to practice. I wish I had because I managed
to destroy a perfectly good laptop LCD the first time I tried to fix
one.

I'd like to add one item. Please either keep your greasy hands off
the CCFL lamp, or clean it with alcohol just before installing it.

Here are a couple of photos I've taken of my LCD:
http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung1sr9.jpg
http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=samsung2gc1.jpg

There's a warning at the top saying I shouldn't touch the white tape.
Does this mean the white tape shouldn't be *removed*?

Yep. The white tape is what holds the row can column driver board
contacts to the panel. Take it off and you're sure to get vertical or
horizontal black lines or intermittant black lines.

I've read somewhere that if you apply pressure unevenly to the LCD panel
you'll get lines and other abnomalities in the display (I assume the
white tape has been applied for even pressure all across the LCD panel).

Yep, that's correct. You don't need to do anything with the area
around the row and column driver board. The lamp is on the other end.

The problem is that it seems (at least according to what I've read
online) that I need to remove the metal frame around the LCD panel in
order to expose the CCFL backlight -is this correct?

Yep. However, you don't need to remove the entire frame. It comes
off in sections. Leave the one near the row and column driver boad
alone.

Unfortunately the white tape extends beyond the metal frame, so if I
shouldn't remove it what do I do?

You shouldn't do anything to move the board that's under the tape. If
some of the tape slops over onto some other piece of removable frame
metal, just cut it with an xacto knife and remove the frame. You can
always get some more tape and pile it on top of the cut line.

The second photo shows the metal bracket removed. It's the only one I
could remove without removing the white tape as well, and the backlight
is found underneath. Is there a neat way to remove the CCFL without
removing the whole frame?

It should pull out neatly *WITH THE REFLECTOR*. In other words, don't
try to extract the lamp. Pull the reflector out and the lamp will
follow. Note the the reflector is attached with double sided tape and
will require seperation with a knife or tiny screwdriver.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558