Altronics solder - any good?

On May 18, 2:24 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
"no one"



hi, but what situation would require :" There is a table showing Savbit as
having a tensile strength of 3.5 tons per sq inch.

** Relative to the other solders - it is close to the best.

Tensile strength affects the chance of cracks developing in joints under
mechanical stress.

I see solder joints under mechanical stress every day - and I see the
results of it too.

Happens whenever anything heavy is held onto a PCB by solder pads alone -
ie large electros, small transformers,  WW resistors and TO220 transistors
mounted proud of the board etc.

....  Phil
Brilliant. I have learnt so much from these posts on solder than I
ever knew before.
I never knew there was so much involved, that I never before thought
of.

Thank you for all this info.
 
On May 18, 3:41 pm, "Dennis" <Den...@blibber.com> wrote:
"kreed" <kenreed1...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:039c1e54-b4bb-4954-a6ee-c9f1cb04229d@17g2000prr.googlegroups.com...
On May 18, 1:24 pm, "Dennis" <Den...@blibber.com> wrote:



"kreed" <kenreed1...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:70d534ba-3d03-49cc-94e3-5ab0d0de3516@q12g2000prb.googlegroups.com....
On May 16, 12:56 pm, "Trevor Wilson" <tre...@rageaudio.com.au> wrote:

Dennis wrote:
Has any one experience with the Altronics noname Pb/Sn solder, does
it work ok? Flux ok?

Just wanted to check before I put down my $50.......

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=T1115

**It might be very good solder, BUT, why wouldn't you just buy Multicore
solder from RS Components? It'll cost you a couple of Bucks more, but
I've
never had a problem with the stuff. For a few cents more than that, you
can
buy the 'Savbit' stuff. It's all I use. I've tried some of the cheap
stuff
and experienced good and bad results. For my money, I'd rather pay a few
Dollars more for guaranteed decent solder.

--
Trevor Wilsonwww.rageaudio.com.au

Ironically, the 1.2mm Savbit from RS is actually a couple of $
cheaper than the Altronics solder.

When you take into account the free freight for online orders via RS,
it is a LOT cheaper.

=================
I think the Altronics one is 1Kg & the RS one is 500g.
The RS free freight is a good incentive.

I based it on the price of 2x 500g rolls  (RS).  VS  a 1kg roll from
Altronics.

I would rather have the 2 x 500g, than 1kg as if you do field work,
smaller rolls are less weight to lug around in a tool box,
and less risk of harm if they fall from a height - like if you are up
a ladder.

===============================
Soldering up a ladder - sounds like fun....
Have had to do that plenty of times :) Any case where you can't
bring the work to you ends up like this.
 
"kreed" <kenreed1999@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0e156bb9-5250-4da5-9f81-6371f80d1b6f@k3g2000prl.googlegroups.com...
On May 18, 2:24 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
"no one"



hi, but what situation would require :" There is a table showing Savbit
as
having a tensile strength of 3.5 tons per sq inch.

** Relative to the other solders - it is close to the best.

Tensile strength affects the chance of cracks developing in joints under
mechanical stress.

I see solder joints under mechanical stress every day - and I see the
results of it too.

Happens whenever anything heavy is held onto a PCB by solder pads alone -
ie large electros, small transformers, WW resistors and TO220 transistors
mounted proud of the board etc.

.... Phil
Brilliant. I have learnt so much from these posts on solder than I
ever knew before.
I never knew there was so much involved, that I never before thought
of.

Thank you for all this info.


=======================================================================================

Moving off topic a little, the below is an interesting post I've lifted from
rec.crafts.metalworking about one guys experience with soldering
aluminium or aluminum as the yanks call it:



I've used "aluminum solder" in the past that was worthless. A few
years ago I bought some aluminum solder at the local hardware store.
that looks like the sticks were poured in a thin stream onto a plate
where it cooled into an approximately half round cross section. It
came in a plastic tube with, I think, the Forney brand name. Anyway,
the stuff just sat around with my other welding and brazing rods until
a couple weeks ago when a customer needed some aluminum joined with a
low temperature (compared to welding) process.

As an experiment I first soldered together two pieces of 6061 1/2" x 1/2" x
1/8" angle.
After soldering the pieces at 90 degrees to each other I clamped one
piece in the vise and tried bending the other piece. I was able to
bend the angle over 90 degrees without the joint failing! I am most
impressed with the stuff.

This is the method I used:
Cleaned both pieces very well so they were grease free.
Used a toothbrush sized stainless wire brush to remove oxide layer.
Heated the metal until the solder started to flow and then used the
brush again through the molten solder to remove any remaining or newly
formed oxide layer. This second brushing allowed the solder to
completely wet the aluminum.
After tinning (aluminuming?) both pieces I pressed them together and
heated until the solder flowed and continued holding until the solder
solidified.

Long explanation for a quick job. After the aluminum is wetted the
solder is workable enough with a hot pointed flame that it can be
built up into large fillets or to fill large holes. If you can fill
holes with plumbing solder, either the old leaded kind or the newer
silver and/or antinomy bearing kind, then you can use the aluminum
solder for the same thing too.
Eric
 
"Dennis"
Moving off topic a little, the below is an interesting post I've lifted
from rec.crafts.metalworking about one guys experience with soldering
aluminium or aluminum as the yanks call it:

I've used "aluminum solder" in the past that was worthless. A few
years ago I bought some aluminum solder at the local hardware store.
that looks like the sticks were poured in a thin stream onto a plate
where it cooled into an approximately half round cross section. It
came in a plastic tube with, I think, the Forney brand name.
(snip)

** The exact same product was sold here as " Lumiweld" - I bought some
sticks back in the early 1990s.

Not strictly a normal solder, but an alloy that mixes ( at the right temp)
with pure aluminium and many aluminium alloys to form a new alloy with a
lower melting point.

I used it with thin aluminium tubes ( model 2 stroke mufflers) and thicker
aluminium headers.

You need a good heat source or maybe two - ie hand held gas torch and gas
stove burner.

Get the preparations and temp right and it works like a charm.

Can even be used to " solder " stainless to stainless.



..... Phil
 
I don't take 500g rolls up anywhere - I save the doohicky packs the
desoldering braid comes in, and wind about 25-40 turns of solder into
it, and use that as a solder dispenser - (about 3-5m of solder)
Others I know use an old 35mm film canister with solder coiled inside. I
know at my workplace,
dropping a 500gm solder roll would not be acceptable, and dropping a
much lighter container
would be preferable if anything was to be dropped.




I would rather have the 2 x 500g, than 1kg as if you do field work,
smaller rolls are less weight to lug around in a tool box,
and less risk of harm if they fall from a height - like if you are up
a ladder.
 
On May 22, 10:10 pm, Des Bromilow <desbromi...@yahoo.comV2> wrote:
I don't take 500g rolls up anywhere - I save the doohicky packs the
desoldering braid comes in, and wind about 25-40 turns of solder into
it, and use that as a solder dispenser - (about 3-5m of solder)
Others I know use an old 35mm film canister with solder coiled inside. I
  know at my workplace,
dropping a 500gm solder roll would not be acceptable, and dropping a
much lighter container
would be preferable if anything was to be dropped.



I would rather have the 2 x 500g, than 1kg as if you do field work,
smaller rolls are less weight to lug around in a tool box,
and less risk of harm if they fall from a height - like if you are up
a ladder.
I usually use an old reel thats probably only got 100g on it. Don't
use a huge amount of solder in the field and this all saves weight.
 
On 2011-05-22, Des Bromilow <desbromilow@yahoo.comV2> wrote:
I don't take 500g rolls up anywhere - I save the doohicky packs the
desoldering braid comes in, and wind about 25-40 turns of solder into
it, and use that as a solder dispenser - (about 3-5m of solder)
Others I know use an old 35mm film canister with solder coiled inside. I
know at my workplace,
dropping a 500gm solder roll would not be acceptable, and dropping a
much lighter container
would be preferable if anything was to be dropped.
I use the shell of an old marker pen.

I wind a few layers of solder on the shaft of a phillips screwdriver
then pack it inside with the start of the inner layer leading out the
where the nib was. maybe 50-100g of solder.

--
⚂⚃ 100% natural

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