Alkaline Battery Cleanup

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Speaking of fake batteries, here's an amazing video of a fake 18650
LiIon battery:
Click to expand...
There have been for several years, restrictions on the sending of lithium
ion batteries by international mail. About six months ago, the Hong Kong
post started enforcing them.

This caused them to stop accepting packages with 3500 mAh or larger Lithium
Ion batteries in them.

It was only for batteries sold alone, the same battery attached to a
radio, or even in the box with a radio, was legal.

Several of the vendors of radios there got around the problem by placing
a sticker over the one on the battery with one that said it was NiMH.

There was a piece of paper included in the package that told the purchaser
to remove the sitcker so that the correct one could be seen.

Geoff.


--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379
 
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in
news:slrnkumruc.78j.gsm@cable.mendelson.com:

Jeroni Paul wrote:

The batteries that almost always leak are the yellow ones from Ikea.
and alcalines from DIA, they wear custom labels and
their real brand is not indicated but I guess is the same for both.

The worst batteries I have ever bought were Office Depot private
brand, which swelled and leaked almost the day I bought them.

The second worse are Everyready Energizers made under license in
Singapore, which last less than a week in use. A week being 7 calendar
days, where they should last 30 hours of use and get used at the most
10 minutes a day. Some of have have only lasted a day. We bought them
last week.

Previous Everyready batteries were sold here in Israel were made in
the EU, as far as I can recall Belgium.


The Office Depot brand were sold several years ago. They were made
somewhere in China, and Office Depot stopped selling them and started
relabing Great Peak brand made in Hong Kong.
They did not seem to be different than the Great Peak (aka GP) ones
they already sold.

Geoff.
Click to expand...
I've been buying Radio Shack batteries for a while, but I think I won't
bother in the future. I've even had them leak in the package. They have
great prices, especially on sale, but the money saved won't pay for a
single item that gets ruined when the things leak.

I've also had problems with Duracells. Only a few Eveready's have leaked
that I can recall, but I'm guessing they are now all made in China, and
the brand differences are both smaller and time varying.

Doug White
 
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
news:9mvmu8lc984rl52c5dn7qv2nas163mhoos@4ax.com...

Leak? How about explode when the terminals are shorted?
Click to expand...
And an egg shouldn't break when you drop it...
 
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 06:21:25 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
news:9mvmu8lc984rl52c5dn7qv2nas163mhoos@4ax.com...

Leak? How about explode when the terminals are shorted?
Click to expand...
I later tested a real Duracell Procell 9v battery. It did NOT explode
when shorted. My guess(tm) is that the counterfeit battery lacked
over-pressure vents in the cells.

And an egg shouldn't break when you drop it...
Click to expand...
When I was an aspiring juvenile delinquent, my parents loaned me to
relatives for a summer on their chicken ranch. I managed to learn the
basics of egg production, which included basic wisdom like "don't drop
the eggs" and "chickens are really dumb". I soon learned that there
was a science to egg dropping. The amount of calcium in the chicken's
diet was regulated to control the shell thickness. Too little, and
the shells would break. Too much, and you needed a hammer to make an
omlette. Today, the shell thickness is measured on the production
line with ultrasonic or RF measurement devices. Back then, it was the
drop test. As the eggs rolled through the machinery, and were
seperated by weight, there was a drop which tested for thin shells.
Thick shells were sampled manually. There should be something online
about it... yep:
<http://digitalcommons.calpoly.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1006&context=it_fac>
Batteries shouldn't explode and egg shells shouldn't break, but it's
always best to test such assumptions.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:39:27 GMT, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>
wrote:

Only a few Eveready's have leaked
that I can recall, but I'm guessing they are now all made in China, and
the brand differences are both smaller and time varying.
Click to expand...
Made in China. The Home Depot battery has a label with an American
flag and "Made in America" on it, but when peeled back, discloses the
"Made in China":
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE7Ftvnhj5o>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

Doug White wrote:

I've been buying Radio Shack batteries for a while, but I think I won't
bother in the future. I've even had them leak in the package. They have
great prices, especially on sale, but the money saved won't pay for a
single item that gets ruined when the things leak.

Back when I was in junior high school (late 1960's) Radio Shack battery
cards were a prized item. I had several, and the free batteries they
provided were well worth the trip, and buying other things to keep the
salesmen happy.

That was a long time ago.

The battery cards lasted a long time, I think into the eighties.
Click to expand...

I know I got one in the early seventies when Radio Shack started setting
up in Canada, but I never used it more than the first time. A single
battery isn't very useful, and they were just carbon zinc batteries.
Radio Shack even seemed to have more than one level of carbon zinc, but
the ones they gave away where the cheapest.

A more useful routine was when the local Radio Shacks offered to fill
something up every Wednesday in the summer, 75 or 76. A friend had lots
of stuff, so he'd organize us to visit various stores, filling up his
cheap radio controlled boat, his Radio Shack 5w CB walkie talkie, his
flashlight that took about 4 D cells. And it worked a bit, then one store
owner didn't like us kids going in in such an organized fashion, and
bascially through us out.

But, at least with this scheme one could actually use the batteries,
instead of waiting six months to have enough D cells for the remote
controlled boat.

Those too were the cheapest batteries they carried.

Michael
 
Doug White wrote:
I've been buying Radio Shack batteries for a while, but I think I won't
bother in the future. I've even had them leak in the package. They have
great prices, especially on sale, but the money saved won't pay for a
single item that gets ruined when the things leak.
Click to expand...
Back when I was in junior high school (late 1960's) Radio Shack battery
cards were a prized item. I had several, and the free batteries they
provided were well worth the trip, and buying other things to keep the
salesmen happy.

That was a long time ago.

Geoff.



--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379
 
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:39:27 GMT, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu
wrote:

Only a few Eveready's have leaked
that I can recall, but I'm guessing they are now all made in China, and
the brand differences are both smaller and time varying.

Made in China. The Home Depot battery has a label with an American
flag and "Made in America" on it, but when peeled back, discloses the
"Made in China":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE7Ftvnhj5o

The ones I like best are the ones that mostly replicate the Duracell
Click to expand...
packaging, so initially you think they are Duracell at a great price.
Only when you look at the actual brand do you see it's something else.

No, I've never bought them, but if you're going to do knockoffs, that's
the way to do it.

Michael
 
When it comes to cheap AAs, I buy Costco (which are Maxell (Hitachi), I
believe). Consumer Reports has consistently top-rated them for capacity and
cheapness, and I've never had reason to complain.
 
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 13:38:11 -0400, Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>
wrote:

The ones I like best are the ones that mostly replicate the Duracell
packaging, so initially you think they are Duracell at a great price.
Only when you look at the actual brand do you see it's something else.
Click to expand...
Those were featured in the video I previously posted:
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCm69-iowZo>
However, I just went searching for such counterfeit batteries on eBay,
and couldn't find any. Looks like eBay has done some enforcing.

Would you buy a "Volcano" brand AA battery?
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/151084744245>
My personal favorites are the variations of the word "fire" found in
18650 LiIon cells. Trustfire, Truefire, Ultrafire, Fireworm,
Marsfire, etc. That really gives me that confident feeling about
those batteries.

I won't mention eBay battery chargers that appear to be designed to
intentionally kill batteries.

No, I've never bought them, but if you're going to do knockoffs, that's
the way to do it.
Click to expand...
I've bought counterfeits at flea markets and hamfests when I'm not
paying attention. When sold by the white box, I don't think it's
possible to tell the difference just looking at the case markings. I
have the same problem with counterfeit cell phone batteries. Oddly, I
haven't seen any counterfeit laptop batteries.

Comparison of battery capacity for various AA alkaline cells:
<http://www.powerstream.com/AA-tests.htm>
Looks like Radio Shack batteries are better than most. I've done
similar tests using my West Mtn Radio CBA-II battery analyzer and
found Costco Kirkland AA batteries to be the best compromise between
price and capacity.




--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:19:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 13:38:11 -0400, Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca
wrote:

The ones I like best are the ones that mostly replicate the Duracell
packaging, so initially you think they are Duracell at a great price.
Only when you look at the actual brand do you see it's something else.

Those were featured in the video I previously posted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCm69-iowZo
However, I just went searching for such counterfeit batteries on eBay,
and couldn't find any. Looks like eBay has done some enforcing.

Would you buy a "Volcano" brand AA battery?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151084744245
My personal favorites are the variations of the word "fire" found in
18650 LiIon cells. Trustfire, Truefire, Ultrafire, Fireworm,
Marsfire, etc. That really gives me that confident feeling about
those batteries.

I won't mention eBay battery chargers that appear to be designed to
intentionally kill batteries.

No, I've never bought them, but if you're going to do knockoffs, that's
the way to do it.

I've bought counterfeits at flea markets and hamfests when I'm not
paying attention. When sold by the white box, I don't think it's
possible to tell the difference just looking at the case markings. I
have the same problem with counterfeit cell phone batteries. Oddly, I
haven't seen any counterfeit laptop batteries.

Comparison of battery capacity for various AA alkaline cells:
http://www.powerstream.com/AA-tests.htm
Looks like Radio Shack batteries are better than most. I've done
similar tests using my West Mtn Radio CBA-II battery analyzer and
found Costco Kirkland AA batteries to be the best compromise between
price and capacity.
Click to expand...
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm
 
Apparently, it's a Maglite.



Not. But when I unscrew the lamp (LED) end there is a circuit board.

I tried to wiggle it but it seems solid and I did not want to break it.

That's interesting: It would explain why I have a drawer full of new looking Maglite torches which I had been hoarding in the hope of interchanging parts one day and getting a w0rking light. Never been able to manage it despite their all looking so shiny and new, some of them even being in the original box! Is this Maglite (the AA as well as the AAA version) really such a POS unit?
Click to expand...
 
BeeJ laid this down on his screen :
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries leaked. I
had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end cap. The strap
wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not allow
the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
Click to expand...
Tried white vinegar soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was
loosened.

Tried CLR soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

I cannot identify the battery brand.

May have to take a large drill bit to it and try to extract.

Suggestions please.

This may be a double post. First PC may or may not have sent it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
BeeJ <spamnot@nospam.com> wrote:
BeeJ laid this down on his screen :
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries leaked.
I > had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end cap.
The strap > wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow > the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Tried white vinegar soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

Tried CLR soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

I cannot identify the battery brand.

May have to take a large drill bit to it and try to extract.

Suggestions please.

This may be a double post. First PC may or may not have sent it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
Click to expand...
Question is, what is the crud. Might try phosphoric acid from auto paint
dept or aluminum jelly.

Greg
 
"BeeJ" <spamnot@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:kssgnf$bqc$1@adenine.netfront.net...
BeeJ laid this down on his screen :
My daughter's expensive flashlight with cheap alkaline batteries leaked.
I had to use a pipe wrench and bench vice to unscrew the end cap. The
strap wrench would not work.

So what is the best way to dissolve the alkaline "glue" that will not
allow the batteries to drop out. The flashlight is anodized aluminium.

It is a total loss now so any attempt would be worth it.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Tried white vinegar soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was
loosened.

Tried CLR soaked overnight. Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

I cannot identify the battery brand.

May have to take a large drill bit to it and try to extract.

Suggestions please.

This may be a double post. First PC may or may not have sent it.
Click to expand...
Screw a long course thread drywall or deck screw into the end of the battery
and use it to extract the cell(s).
 
Tried white vinegar soaked overnight.
Tried CLR soaked overnight.
Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.
Click to expand...
Use an alkaline solvent. Household ammonia should work fine.
 
Tried white vinegar soaked overnight.
Tried CLR soaked overnight.
Not a bit of battery crud was loosened.

So, any other better solvents? I do not have any hydrofluoric around.
I do have pool HCl.

Use an alkaline solvent. Household ammonia should work fine.
Click to expand...
Make sure to remove all acids before mixing in ammonias. You could end
up being a star in a "Space 1999" episode.
 
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