280V motor on 230V circuit

[Deodiaus]

I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?

 

[JosephKK]

On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:35:27 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:cg2t041vfc8jqokr3on7fnu71vl8hdh6hn@4ax.com...
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 08:44:11 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:jqsn049m1ve2npm58ohnj1cgq7k9si972m@4ax.com...
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 01:18:25 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2h2l0454htk5e5t1u94li87d7q310u0fn4@4ax.com...
On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 23:50:18 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote in message
newsaje04ddaritvg2u96m558rkndr8jq2hh0@4ax.com...
On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 09:22:41 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"JosephKK" <quiettechblue@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:06b004htd49j569u0ttk8sin5p39dc2llv@4ax.com...
On Wed, 09 Apr 2008 18:45:28 +1200, Terry Given <my_name@ieee.org
wrote:

Jay Ts wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:

Terry Given <my_name@ieee.org> wrote:


these are great, they look fantastic, unity power factor,
dimmable,
and
last 50,000 hours.

Yeah, and they're only $145 each:

http://www.lampsplus.com/products/s_lr6/


And only 650 lumens, which is less than a 60 watt incandescent
(890
lumens). I'm using 4 27 watt (100 watt equivalent) 6500K CFLs to
light my work room, so to replace them with those LED bulbs, it
would cost ... oh, forget it, I don't even want to do the math!
No way.

and how many lumens come out of your fixture with the 890 lumen
lamp
in
it?

CFLs are terrible for that. they are measured in the light sphere
sans
fixture, which can make a tremendous difference. easily 20-30%.


Oh, and the LR6 bulbs are spotlights, which is a no-go just by
itself.
And they aren't daylight balanced (5500-6500K), another definite
no-go.


they are not bulbs. They are light fittings with integral lamps.
that
alters the C-B calcs substantially.

I think it's still going to be a while until 100-watt
equivalent,
daylight balanced LED bulbs are available with an "ouchless"
startup cost, and I'm not holding my breath waiting. Just hoping
that it will happen, and won't be awfully long.

Jay Ts

its a total cost of ownership thing. efficiency wise they pay for
themselves (I have seen the ROI calcs but cant recall them) in a
few
years.

the main market is for people who dont change their own lightbulbs
(eg
companies) where it costs a lot to get a single lamp changed, so
they
often get a sparky to change all lamps whether or not they need
it,
eg
annually or bi-annually. And if its in say a tall atrium and you
need
scissor lifts, these things pay themselves off in less than the
lifgetime of a single incandescent, CFL or flouro.

Cheers
Terry

For street lighting, warehouse lighting, and industrial lighting
there
is a competing technology: Induction lighting. Typical lamp/bulb
life
50,000 to 75,000 hours. Twice the life and better luminous
efficacy
at a 50% surcharge compared to HID lighting. It is starting to
get
a
lot of notice. Oh, and better electrical efficiency, takes about
half
the power for the same amount of light.

I don't know how much take-up of this technology there has been in
the
UK.
It does beg the question of how much trouble it could cause, if a
single
streetlamp or warehouse luminaire went 'rogue'. Already, I see
fellow
hams
bleating all the time about HF bands interference problems from
rogue
CFLs,
and SMPS's and PLT and so on. Imagine the potential for interference
if
a
high power streetlight ballast, feeding an induction lamp 50ft up a
pole,
started radiating on 13 odd megs. Or a factory one 50ft up in the
ceiling
...

Arfa


In the US they have to meet FCC radiated and conducted emission
standards. Thus the CFLs going rouge probably only statistically
meet
those standards, such is part of the nature of regulation.

They have to meet strict emission regulations here too, which I'm sure
for
the most part, when in full working order, they do. The problems arise
when
the crappy little filter caps in the front end of the switching driver
for
the tubes, go open circuit or high ESR, due no doubt to the
unventillated
enclosure in the bottom of the lamp, that the electronics sit in,
running
very hot. Once that cap has failed, the inverter radiates like a
bastard,
swamping the airways with broadband hash. It's bad enough when one
goes
rogue like this, 6 foot off the deck in someone's driveway light
outside
their house. Think what it would be like if one went bad 50 foot up in
the
air ...

Arfa


Please explain under what situations would a cfl be mounted 50 feet
above ground.

Block of flats ? Might be 100 feet up in the air or more in that case.
When
the EU morons responsible for all this eco-bollocks legislation finally
ban
incandescents in the UK, as they have stated that they will in short
order,
then tower blocks will be full of CFLs, as there will be no alternative,
yes
?

Originally, when we got onto lighting being 50 foot up in the air, we
were
talking about induction lighting in street lamps and factory ceiling
lights.
The point was that these devices use high frequency generators to couple
the
energy into the lamps, and these generators follow similar design
principles
to the tube driver inverters in CFLs. Thus, if low power CFL inverters
go
bad, and create the RF havoc that they sometimes do at just a few feet
off
the ground, then imagine how bad the situation would be if the high
power
HF
generator for an induction lamp, 50 foot up a pole, when similarly bad.
With
my thinking now ...?

Arfa


Most of those will be converted to HID lighting or induction lighting
instead of cfl over the longevity characteristics.

?????????

Arfa


Most street lighting is HPS currently with a normal ballast, there are
some MH lamps with normal ballasts. LED street lighting is being
experimented with. Caltrans in using induction lighting on signs and
may branch out into other uses. Since induction lighting is targeted
at hard to maintain locations in commercial and industrial settings
there are design differences from household CFL where cheap is the
dominant factor. Where we will see CFL is on smaller apartment
buildings with penny-pinching owners / managers.

Ah, OK. I see what you're saying now. I guess that LED lighting is going to
become the standard when they can get them high enough powered. This can't
be too far away, as I see that car manufacturers are starting to experiment
with LED headlights.

I have more than one co-worker with a car with LED headlights.
Infinity, Lexus, BMW and others do this already.

Already, Audi seem to have LED front running lights,
set into the headlight units, and some of the front lamps used on bicycles
now output enough light to see the road ahead.

I have LED bicycle headlights myself.

A local night club had
coloured floodlights on the front of the building, which were LED based, and
I was amazed at just how good a job they did.

Elektor magazine carried out an interesting project last month. They took a
DLP video projector with a standard expensive HID lamp and colour wheel, and
canibalised it to fit an array of red, green and blue Luxeon LEDs in its
place. They then programmed up a cheap microcontroller to emulate the
rotation of the colour wheel, by switching the colours of the LEDs with 3
FETs. They also fed a colour sync signal from the micro to the original
optical sync pickup, so that the LED switching remained synced to the DLP
chip drive. Colour balance was achieved by tweaking the 'on' times of the
LED colours, in software.

The conclusion was that although not as bright as the original HID lamp, the
projector did produce a perfectly useable picture, which proved what they
set out to, which was that it was perfectly possible to use LEDs in place of
a lamp, and that it would be just as good, once they had got the luminous
output up just a bit more.

Arfa

And the last is a nice change from jumbotrons.

 

On Apr 26, 3:11 pm, Deodiaus <deodi...@yahoo.com> wrote:

which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead.  Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?

BUY IT! You'll thank yourself 10 years from now! The speed diffrence
wil be neglegable, the duty-cycle will be such that the motor will
enjoy a much longer life... if anything you could step-up RPM by
adding pulleys and a drive-belt rather than direct-drive coupled as it
is now... The pulley/belts would also minimize start-shock to the pump
by softening the inital roll in of the motor...

 

[Jamie]

Deodiaus wrote:

which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?
are you sure it isn't 208 ?

--
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Jamie]

hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:

On Apr 26, 6:14 pm, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:

Deodiaus wrote:

I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?

are you sure it isn't 208 ?

--http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"


I'd be suspicious that the 280V was a misreading somehow of 230V.
that sounds more plausible.

--
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 22:27:07 -0700 (PDT), Mr.Frank263@gmail.com wrote:

:with which type and value to replace the below capacitor, I tried my
:best to find a new one but could not
:4.7uf 25v non-polarized electrolytic capacitor of handy t.v., two
:and a half inch, made in Taiwan


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service.

 

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[Wiebe Cazemier]

On Sunday 27 April 2008 21:04, Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

On Sunday 27 April 2008 20:52, James Sweet wrote:

Don't be so quick to condemn the CRT, sure it could be at fault, but
eliminate the external stuff first! A bad connection on the neck board can
just as easily cause the same symptom.

But won't a bad connection give me a black screen, because when the cathode
is disconnected from it's line, no current can flow. How can the blue cathode
be shorted to ground on the neck board? I can't see anything (obvious) on the
board that could cause a short.

BTW, I thought the RGB guns had separate line wires, but besides the focus
and grid voltage wires, only one extra thick wire runs to the neck board.
That has to be the cathode line voltage, right? And if so, doesn't that mean
that when it's shorted to ground, all the guns are fully turned on, and not
just the blue one (as is the case here)?

Wait, I've been thinking. An intermittent short in a capacitor between the blue
cathode line voltage and ground could of course also cause this (and there are
some of them, ceramics, on the neck board). But one question about that, which
I guess also applies to when the short is inside the CRT:

Provided there is one cathode driving voltage for all guns, why aren't all guns
fully turned on when one of the cathodes is shorted to ground? Because if one
is shorted to ground, there is no more line voltage for the other guns either,
right?

 

[conundrum]

Hi all.

I have two of these beasties, both JVC 42" plasmas made at about the
same time.

Unfortunately, one has a burned out PDP (has big black line on the
screen about 1/3 the way across and halfway down the screen) and the
other has an apparently fried controller board but the PDP looks fine.

I've got as far as determining that the base boards are not
mechanically compatible but they do use the same PDP, with essentially
the same pinout and specifications.

I can't seem to work out how to separate the PDP and uber-fragile
flexi cables with embedded LSI HV chips from the base plate with its
incorrect screw locations, undid about 24 screws and no go

Has anyone even attempted such a mammoth task? It seems feasible (the
LCD I modded is easy by comparison)

Thanks in advance.
-A

"Bother" said Pooh, as Darth Maul 'sabred him in twain...

 

[KC]

On Apr 25, 12:50 pm, Doug Smith W9WI <w...@invalid.nospam> wrote:

On Fri, 25 Apr 2008 06:14:25 -0700, KC wrote:
Just upgraded from an old analog tv to a Samsung DTV.  The first
problem I noticed is the lip sync audio-to-video time delay on NBC's
national digital programs.  While analog broadcast has some small time
delay, digital has 2x-3x more delay, making it almost impossible to
watch. Local station in-house digital programming does not have any
more delay than analog, but as soon as they switch to national
programming, the delay goes to hell.  ABC & CBS does not have nearly

I might suspect some of each...

I work for a NBC local station, hopefully not yours(grin).  We had some
issues locally that kicked in when we installed a character generator to
do severe weather.  It put some delay in the video but the
audio went via a different route - ended up being sent before the video.
That doesn't happen in nature and is VERY noticeable!  We ended up buying
a audio delay and dialing in 150ms in the other path.  Since local
material bypassed the HD character generator, local stuff was fine.

I'm not entirely convinced there isn't a problem in New York too though.
I've seen the lip sync *change* dramatically during a program.

We're in the process of replacing our main control board for HD, which
should keep all the audio and video in the same path & get this side gear
like character generators out of the way.  I might expect your local NBC
station (again, hopefully that's not us!) will be taking similar steps.  A
lot of stations have had to cut corners to get HD on the air at all
and it's going to take awhile to put together the budget to do HD the way
it should be done.  (that new transmitter & antenna weren't cheap, and a
lot of stations have to buy it all twice! - luckily we only had to buy
once...)

I began a dialog with the local NBC station engineer. Here's his
opinion of the problem:

"Part of the problem (foundational) is that SMPTE (creates standards
for television) chose not to include a method to synchronize video and
audio packets in the new digital standards in order to leave more
bandwidth available to improve quality. As a result, there is no way
to exactly re-match video/audio once they are separated from one
another. Networks and stations throughout the country struggle with
this problem and vendors are working hard to develop equipment to help
meet and "hopefully" correct this issue.
My (his) personal position is that SMPTE failed to ensure a standard
that enables video and audio to remain synchronous throughout the
encoding and decoding process. This failure to create a solid
standard now requires each network and station to have to go out and
purchase additional equipment to correct for a flawed standard. We
are building on a cracked foundation."

All that being said, I see a huge national backlash against digital TV
come Feb. '09. A large portion of folks will buy new DTV's, only to
find out they have a nice picture they can't stand to watch because of
lip sync problems. I see congress & the FCC being swamped with
complaints. The whole mess is easily comparable to government "aid"
from the FEMA!!!

KC

 

[Fred]

4-years old eMachines system. CRT monitor image on one part of the
screen "jumps" a 1/2 inch or so every minute or 2. (Movement appears
in different places and seems to be sideways.) Any suggestions?

 

[Ron(UK)]

Gareth Magennis wrote:

I still smile at my naiveness at buying a whole bunch of "Duracell" AA's for
a pound at one of those pound shops before going travelling in India. When
my Maglite eventually needed a change of batteries, I discovered that every
one was as flat as a fart.

Fake chinese duracells are rife on market stalls here

 

[Wiebe Cazemier]

On Monday 05 May 2008 16:42, mike wrote:

I've had mixed results with a stun-gun. Lotsa volts, but not enough current
to break much. I just arc'd it between all combinations of pins until
I got bored with the light show. No idea where the short was, but it
worked afterwards. YMMV.

Haha, I like that . Using any kind of tesla coil would do about the same, I
guess. I'm working on constructing a device which gives me a current limited
jolt at 325V (described in another post in this thread). Let's see how that
works out. 350V is the amount a Sencore rejuvenator uses, so that seems pretty
safe to me.

But about your stungun method: if it worked afterwards, what are the mixed
results you speak of?

BTW, I've always wondered, what does an arc look like in a vacuum. In air, the
air ionizes, giving the thunderbolt like arc. But in a vacuum, this can't
happen. So, will the arcing be invisible when the short has been completely
blown out?

 

[Wiebe Cazemier]

On Friday 09 May 2008 10:07, Arfa Daily wrote:

Well, if ever you get one of those Sony players - and there was lots of 'em
that used variations of the same board, mounted directly to the underside of
the deck - if it 'feels' like you've got a bad laser, look to see if it's
got those three caps along the edge of the board. If it has, you better
start looking for a supplier ... !! I never have figured out why 'standard'
electros won't work in that position. Like you, I have subbed leaded for
sm's in other places, without problem. About the only difference that I've
found is that the leaded types tend to have a lower ESR than the sm's, which
under normal circumstances, you'd say was a good thing.

Arfa

Doesn't it have to do with higher stray inductance (more inductance, less
high-frequency shunt capability)? SMD parts are usually the only usable kind
of part in sensitive equipment, like PWM amplifiers.

 

[Thomas Tornblom]

Europe.

I also noticed just last week that Malaysia and Singapore use 230V (@50Hz).

 

[JW]

On Fri, 09 May 2008 07:51:20 +1000 Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in Message id:
<iur6249jf7tva5b2lunkgdjldmlvpcj4jh@4ax.com>:

On Wed, 07 May 2008 13:11:38 -0400, JW <none@dev.null> put finger to
keyboard and composed:

Trying to repair a Keithley 616 with a bad ranging board. It needs two
parts. One is a dual channel J-FET and is marked ITS30092; the other is
an op-amp with the markings ITS6214. Does anyone know of a cross, or even
who the manufacturer is? (Must be before my time...)

Thanks for any help!

I'm guessing they are specially selected Intersil parts.

Have a look at the IT500-IT505 dual N-channel J-FETs:
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/1824055.pdf

Maybe someone has an Intersil catalogue or databook from around that
time (early 1980s ???).

Thanks Franc, Intersil makes sense. It's starting to look like I'll need a
donor unit.