12 volts to 48 volts for an electric bicycle

On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 4:39:29 PM UTC-7, fungus wrote:
On Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:45:28 PM UTC+2, mrda...@gmail.com wrote:



The motor was *very* warm to the touch afterwards, too.





And that was only 48V...



72V will probably fry it.

Yup. Thanks for the reminder!
 
On Tue, 18 Sep 2012 18:59:40 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:


Umm, 8 AH at 48V, vs 85 AH at 12 volts. (assuming no loss in the DC-
DC converter)
A little less than 3 times the energy.
---
Yup.

I was thinking ampere-hours when I should have been thinking
watt-hours.

Thanks. :)

--
JF
 
On Sep 18, 10:27 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
George Herold wrote:

John Fields wrote:

Assuming the same speed in both cases, and neglecting the difference
in weight of the batteries,  If 8AH will get him 3 miles, then 85AH
ought to get him about 32 miles.

Umm, 8 AH at 48V, vs 85 AH at 12 volts.  (assuming no loss in the DC-
DC converter)
A little less than 3 times the energy.

   Not with the same number of 12V batteries.
Sure, but the OP proposed replacing four (4) 12V/8AH batteries with
one (1) 12V/85AH
George H.
 
mrdarrett@gmail.com explained :
I got a used 36-volt Crystalyte hub motor and controller from Craigslist.
(The guy who sold it to me said they can take 72 volts, but I'm still trying
to confirm that from their website, which is a bit skimpy. Looks like I'll
have to email them.)

Motor = 400 X4 (408)
http://www.crystalyte.com/

I tried 48V (4x 12v SLA batteries, 8 A-h each), and the bike worked fine for
about 3 miles, but left me to pedal the remaining 9 miles home from work.

Since the 12V 8 A-h batteries are $33 each from Home Depot, I wondered about
returning them and buying a (heavy!) 12V, 85 A-h deep cycle battery from
Costco (only $68). If I go that route, I'll need a DC-DC converter,
converting 12V to 48V.

I'm thinking of the LT1339, and apparently the output voltage is set by Vout
= 1.25 (1 + R2/R1), from page 9 of the datasheet.
http://cds.linear.com/docs/Datasheet/1339fas.pdf

Is the output current set by what ever the input supply can provide?

This 555 circuit looks like fun too.
http://www.dos4ever.com/flyback/flyback.html

Since I want the output voltage to be 4x the input voltage, is a duty cycle
of 75% correct?

Thanks,

Michael
Get a bike trailer and buy 4 12v Deep Discharge batteries and strap 'em
on. Go like the wind, but with it.

--
Present and unaccounted for.
 
On Wednesday, September 19, 2012 5:39:09 PM UTC-7, BeeJ wrote:

....

Get a bike trailer and buy 4 12v Deep Discharge batteries and strap 'em

on. Go like the wind, but with it.

Yes, that's a good solution too. =)


--

Present and unaccounted for.
 
On 9/19/2012 7:39 PM, BeeJ wrote:
mrdarrett@gmail.com explained :
I got a used 36-volt Crystalyte hub motor and controller from
Craigslist. (The guy who sold it to me said they can take 72 volts,
but I'm still trying to confirm that from their website, which is a
bit skimpy. Looks like I'll have to email them.)

Motor = 400 X4 (408)
http://www.crystalyte.com/

I tried 48V (4x 12v SLA batteries, 8 A-h each), and the bike worked
fine for about 3 miles, but left me to pedal the remaining 9 miles
home from work.
Since the 12V 8 A-h batteries are $33 each from Home Depot, I wondered
about returning them and buying a (heavy!) 12V, 85 A-h deep cycle
battery from Costco (only $68). If I go that route, I'll need a DC-DC
converter, converting 12V to 48V.
I'm thinking of the LT1339, and apparently the output voltage is set
by Vout = 1.25 (1 + R2/R1), from page 9 of the datasheet.
http://cds.linear.com/docs/Datasheet/1339fas.pdf

Is the output current set by what ever the input supply can provide?

This 555 circuit looks like fun too.
http://www.dos4ever.com/flyback/flyback.html

Since I want the output voltage to be 4x the input voltage, is a duty
cycle of 75% correct?

Thanks,

Michael

Get a bike trailer and buy 4 12v Deep Discharge batteries and strap 'em
on. Go like the wind, but with it.

I put a suggestion on the DIY electric car forum to mount a
motor/generator on a trailer that you can tow behind your electric car
for long distance trips. If it's a short trip say 35 miles just take the
car, for a longer trip connect the trailer and let it charge your
batteries while you drive.
I'll my video again, some of you have seen it and probably tired of
it, This is an electric gokart my 16 yr old son and I put together
about 3 years ago. Since then I overheated the original motor, we
installed 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries and a new motor. The
overheating was at a connection between one #4 wire and 7 #14 wires.
The motor windings were ok.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MKjbXltAew

Mikek
 
mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote:
I got a used 36-volt Crystalyte hub motor and controller from Craigslist. (The guy who sold it to me said they can take 72 volts, but I'm still trying to confirm that from their website, which is a bit skimpy. Looks like I'll have to email them.)

Motor = 400 X4 (408)
http://www.crystalyte.com/

I tried 48V (4x 12v SLA batteries, 8 A-h each), and the bike worked fine for about 3 miles, but left me to pedal the remaining 9 miles home from work.

Since the 12V 8 A-h batteries are $33 each from Home Depot, I wondered about returning them and buying a (heavy!) 12V, 85 A-h deep cycle battery from Costco (only $68). If I go that route, I'll need a DC-DC converter, converting 12V to 48V.
how are you charging these batteries, and are they balanced correctly?

when they're dead from use with your bike, check the voltages across each
battery, if they're not close, something is wrong with one or more of
them, of they're just too chinese to even string up and get a nice 48 volt
string with. One off battery or even just one cell in one battery will go
into voltage reversal if it drains before the others, and that will really
kill performance as a whole as well as that battery.

I use a gas engine on my bicycle and know from use starting and stopping
aka "city use" is the real killer with gas use. If I never stopped, way
over 200miles per gallon, if not more would be easy.
 
On Friday, September 21, 2012 2:26:23 PM UTC-7, amdx wrote:

....

I put a suggestion on the DIY electric car forum to mount a

motor/generator on a trailer that you can tow behind your electric car

for long distance trips. If it's a short trip say 35 miles just take the

car, for a longer trip connect the trailer and let it charge your

batteries while you drive.

Oh, neato!


I'll my video again, some of you have seen it and probably tired of

it, This is an electric gokart my 16 yr old son and I put together

about 3 years ago. Since then I overheated the original motor, we

installed 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries and a new motor. The

overheating was at a connection between one #4 wire and 7 #14 wires.

The motor windings were ok.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MKjbXltAew

Nice!

Just wondering, why did you put more voltage on the motor than it was designed for?

Oh, and where did you get the batteries? Sounds like a deal to get used ones!
 
On Friday, September 21, 2012 2:47:01 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:


how are you charging these batteries, and are they balanced correctly?

Hmm, I'm pretty sure the four were new (two from Home Depot, two from Fry's). I returned them all though (well, except for one from Fry's, which fell out and had scuff marks on it).

12V battery maintainer from Wal-Mart. Schumacher brand, I think.


when they're dead from use with your bike, check the voltages across each

battery, if they're not close, something is wrong with one or more of

them, of they're just too chinese to even string up and get a nice 48 volt

string with. One off battery or even just one cell in one battery will go

into voltage reversal if it drains before the others, and that will really

kill performance as a whole as well as that battery.

Oh ok. I'll measure the voltage when I take the batts for a spin next week!



I use a gas engine on my bicycle and know from use starting and stopping

aka "city use" is the real killer with gas use. If I never stopped, way

over 200miles per gallon, if not more would be easy.

Ooh, a 30cc 2-stroke? How many mpg do you get with city driving?

Is it tolerably loud?
 
On 9/21/2012 5:49 PM, mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2012 2:26:23 PM UTC-7, amdx wrote:

...


I put a suggestion on the DIY electric car forum to mount a

motor/generator on a trailer that you can tow behind your electric car

for long distance trips. If it's a short trip say 35 miles just take the

car, for a longer trip connect the trailer and let it charge your

batteries while you drive.


Oh, neato!


I'll my video again, some of you have seen it and probably tired of

it, This is an electric gokart my 16 yr old son and I put together

about 3 years ago. Since then I overheated the original motor, we

installed 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries and a new motor. The

overheating was at a connection between one #4 wire and 7 #14 wires.

The motor windings were ok.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MKjbXltAew

Nice!

Just wondering, why did you put more voltage on the motor than it was designed for?
MORE POWER!!
The motor can take the amperage for certain amount of time.
Time at high amperage equals heat, to much time at high amperage
equals new motor :)
At start with the pedal down it will draw over 250 amps at 48 Volts.
At 90% efficiency that's 14 hp. It gets up and goes.


Oh, and where did you get the batteries? Sounds like a deal to get used ones!

I have a wrecker service that has a lot for their junk cars, some of
the wrecks still have good batteries, so I got some cheap. I only got
cheap ones until I was sure I had a working model. I spent $300 on
batteries once everything was working.

Mikek
 
"amdx" wrote in message news:8b0bb$505e195b$18ec6dd7$19010@KNOLOGY.NET...

MORE POWER!!
The motor can take the amperage for certain amount of time.
Time at high amperage equals heat, to much time at high amperage
equals new motor :)
At start with the pedal down it will draw over 250 amps at 48 Volts.
At 90% efficiency that's 14 hp. It gets up and goes.
The motor may have 90% efficiency at rated current and voltage, but at twice
rated current the I^2R losses will be four times, so you might get 40%
losses and 60% efficiency. You will get more power output, but more like
12kW * 0.6 = 7.2kW = 9.6 HP.

At some point you will get less power out with more amps. You can get more
torque, but if it is under nearly locked rotor conditions all the power will
be used up as heat. There is no output power if the vehicle is not moving.
HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.

Spinning the tires and doing burn-outs seem impressive but take less power
than maximum acceleration just before losing traction.

Paul
www.muttleydog.com
 
On 9/22/2012 4:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
"amdx" wrote in message news:8b0bb$505e195b$18ec6dd7$19010@KNOLOGY.NET...

MORE POWER!!
The motor can take the amperage for certain amount of time.
Time at high amperage equals heat, to much time at high amperage
equals new motor :)
At start with the pedal down it will draw over 250 amps at 48 Volts.
At 90% efficiency that's 14 hp. It gets up and goes.

The motor may have 90% efficiency at rated current and voltage, but at
twice rated current the I^2R losses will be four times, so you might get
40% losses and 60% efficiency. You will get more power output, but more
like 12kW * 0.6 = 7.2kW = 9.6 HP.

At some point you will get less power out with more amps. You can get
more torque, but if it is under nearly locked rotor conditions all the
power will be used up as heat. There is no output power if the vehicle
is not moving. HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.

Spinning the tires and doing burn-outs seem impressive but take less
power than maximum acceleration just before losing traction.

Paul
www.muttleydog.com
Ahh, shit! and I thought I was havin fun.

Mikek
 
mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2012 2:47:01 PM UTC-7, Cydrome Leader wrote:


how are you charging these batteries, and are they balanced correctly?


Hmm, I'm pretty sure the four were new (two from Home Depot, two from Fry's). I returned them all though (well, except for one from Fry's, which fell out and had scuff marks on it).

12V battery maintainer from Wal-Mart. Schumacher brand, I think.
They're probablhy all from the same grade school in china, but you never
know.

when they're dead from use with your bike, check the voltages across each

battery, if they're not close, something is wrong with one or more of

them, of they're just too chinese to even string up and get a nice 48 volt

string with. One off battery or even just one cell in one battery will go

into voltage reversal if it drains before the others, and that will really

kill performance as a whole as well as that battery.


Oh ok. I'll measure the voltage when I take the batts for a spin next week!
Maybe it just a weak battery.

I use a gas engine on my bicycle and know from use starting and stopping

aka "city use" is the real killer with gas use. If I never stopped, way

over 200miles per gallon, if not more would be easy.


Ooh, a 30cc 2-stroke? How many mpg do you get with city driving?

Is it tolerably loud?
It's really not bad, it just sort of buzzes, and I sit in front of it, so
sounds really doesn't matter. It has a 25 or 30cc 2 stroke Redmax engine.
The thing starts no matter what, and has only needed the fuel tank gasket
replaced as the ethanol crap in gas eats that stuff up.

As for powered bikes, the real killer on gas or electric is pulling out of
a stop. Mine can't since it has a leafblower clutch, so I have to pedal to
get going. If you're lazy with that, the milage drops like crazy per tank
of gas. Once you're moving, the thing might as well be idling, unless
you're going up hill.
 
On Sat, 22 Sep 2012 17:01:24 -0400, "P E Schoen" <paul@peschoen.com> wrote:

"amdx" wrote in message news:8b0bb$505e195b$18ec6dd7$19010@KNOLOGY.NET...

MORE POWER!!
The motor can take the amperage for certain amount of time.
Time at high amperage equals heat, to much time at high amperage
equals new motor :)
At start with the pedal down it will draw over 250 amps at 48 Volts.
At 90% efficiency that's 14 hp. It gets up and goes.

The motor may have 90% efficiency at rated current and voltage, but at twice
rated current the I^2R losses will be four times, so you might get 40%
losses and 60% efficiency. You will get more power output, but more like
12kW * 0.6 = 7.2kW = 9.6 HP.
Power is power. If your losses are 4x, so is your useful power (assuming
nothing lost in the wiring to the motor - a design issue). Unless you have
nonlinear resistance in there somewhere.

At some point you will get less power out with more amps. You can get more
torque, but if it is under nearly locked rotor conditions all the power will
be used up as heat. There is no output power if the vehicle is not moving.
HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.
That's a different issue and true at any current. Higher is better, since it
won't stay locked (as long).

Spinning the tires and doing burn-outs seem impressive but take less power
than maximum acceleration just before losing traction.
Less *useful* power, for sure.
 

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