WR overlay designation for a fusible resistor?

[N_Cook]

W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Arfa Daily]

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:fumm6e$hcl$1@registered.motzarella.org...

W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Who can tell ? Why "Q" for a transistor ? Why "U" for an IC ? Why "VDD" ?
Why "VSS" ? I bet if you think for a while, there's loads of these that
don't 'appear' to make any sense, but must have to the o.e.d. I don't think
that there is anything particularly special about fusible resistors in terms
of the materials used to make the resistive element. As far as I know, they
are still carbon or metal film, with a completely non-flammable coating. I
think it is probably the internal connections that are 'necked' or something
to make them deliberately vulnerable to excess current, or heat in the
substrate, generated by excess dissipation.

Arfa

 

[N_Cook]

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:480F6E4E.A5CA2533@hotmail.com...

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

N_Cook wrote:

W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing

It shouldn't. You don't want molten metal loose inside equipment.
Older fusible resistors were nichrome wire in a fiberglass, asbestos or
sand housing. A few manufacturers used carbon resistors, but running
them right at the rated current caused them to age, and the resistance
to rise, which caused false trips. The original Motorola 'Quasar, Works
in a drawer' TV chassis did this on the audio output transformer. You
had to use the specified brand and wattage resistor for repairs, because
of variations between brands. Metal film has replaced nichrome wire in
modern equipment. You wand the failed fuse to vaporize the conductor,
not melt it and let it still make contact, or worse, create plasma which
will carry a lot higher current than the fuse did.

Yes, modern 'fusible resistors' are typically made using metal film over a
ceramic former and covered with a 'cement' coating. All of which is
non-combustible and flameproof..

In comparison, carbon film covered with laquer is very combustible.

Graham

Fusible resistors are what it says on the tin - a resistor and a fuse.
The MO or metal bit and then the fusible bit, so avoiding the possibility of
seriously high temperatures building up in a fault condition, rather than
just non-combustibility.
I've only ever scraped one apart, long ago , out of curiosity, and there was
a definite fusible part that I remember as a metalic? blob rather than a
necking.
Unfortunately I did not know of Wood's metal, then, and didn't try heating
it up.
I'll try scraping back a 2.2 ohm one, tomorrow.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:480F6E4E.A5CA2533@hotmail.com...

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

N_Cook wrote:

W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing

It shouldn't. You don't want molten metal loose inside equipment.
Older fusible resistors were nichrome wire in a fiberglass, asbestos or
sand housing. A few manufacturers used carbon resistors, but running
them right at the rated current caused them to age, and the resistance
to rise, which caused false trips. The original Motorola 'Quasar, Works
in a drawer' TV chassis did this on the audio output transformer. You
had to use the specified brand and wattage resistor for repairs, because
of variations between brands. Metal film has replaced nichrome wire in
modern equipment. You wand the failed fuse to vaporize the conductor,
not melt it and let it still make contact, or worse, create plasma which
will carry a lot higher current than the fuse did.

Yes, modern 'fusible resistors' are typically made using metal film over a
ceramic former and covered with a 'cement' coating. All of which is
non-combustible and flameproof..

In comparison, carbon film covered with laquer is very combustible.

Graham

Fusible resistors are what it says on the tin - a resistor and a fuse.
The MO or metal bit and then the fusible bit, so avoiding the possibility of
seriously high temperatures building up in a fault condition, rather than
just non-combustibility.
I've only ever scraped one apart, long ago , out of curiosity, and there was
a definite fusible part that I remember as a metalic? blob rather than a
necking.
Unfortunately I did not know of Wood's metal, then, and didn't try heating
it up.
I'll try scraping back a 2.2 ohm one, tomorrow.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
newsq20141q7aomofm31qpfn4a38qrd5multg@4ax.com...

On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 07:49:17 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

:W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
:Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing


Can't say I have ever heard of Wood's Metal being used for fusible
resistors in
electrical or electronic equipment. I seem to remember that a major use
for
Wood's Metal was as the fusible element in thermal break-circuit fire
detectors
used back in the 30's - 50's. They were superseded by much better
detectors.

There certainly used to be a pellet of Wood's in the 'daisy' fire
sprinklers. I don't know of that is still the case. It's a simple, reliable,
and more to the point 'on-the-spot' and unpowered system. The lid of my
pressure cooker still has a Wood's metal pressure pressure relief valve,
which coincidentally, I replaced just last week.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:480EF805.6BD47AB1@hotmail.com...

N_Cook wrote:

W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing

Wimpy resistor ?

Graham

Weak resistor ?

How about "CR" for a diode ? Copper (oxide) Rectifier, maybe ?

Arfa

 

[N_Cook]

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:KWWPj.90562$4f4.81922@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
newsq20141q7aomofm31qpfn4a38qrd5multg@4ax.com...
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 07:49:17 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

:W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
:Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing


Can't say I have ever heard of Wood's Metal being used for fusible
resistors in
electrical or electronic equipment. I seem to remember that a major use
for
Wood's Metal was as the fusible element in thermal break-circuit fire
detectors
used back in the 30's - 50's. They were superseded by much better
detectors.

There certainly used to be a pellet of Wood's in the 'daisy' fire
sprinklers. I don't know of that is still the case. It's a simple,
reliable,
and more to the point 'on-the-spot' and unpowered system. The lid of my
pressure cooker still has a Wood's metal pressure pressure relief valve,
which coincidentally, I replaced just last week.

Arfa

I scraped off one of a batch of 2.2 ohm 1/3W , called fusible resistors and
heated with hot air gun to 180 deg C with no fusing anywhere.
MO over ceramic construction with spiral cut into the oxide starting and
ending 1/10 way in, so highest risistance in the axial central area between
the 2 cuts in that area , so any excess current failure would be in that
section.
So little more than a standard MO resistor , but not having the continuous
spiral. The scraped off coating seemed no more than slightly olive coloured
varnish

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Eeyore]

Forrest wrote:

I've been posting about changing out the caps in my Toshiba TV. I have
gotten a lot of help, and being a rookie I sure appreciate it ... thanks.
I'm at the point to where I'm shopping for the caps and trying to get them
all from the same place and only have to pay postage once. I have a question
about the (K) being added to a few of them. I think someone else posted
about that a month ago or so and I can't find it. Most just have the number
of uF and the voltage but a couple of them are different. One says, 1 uF- 50
V but has a (K) above the uF, and another is labeled, 10 uF K and is 16 V.
What's up with that? It can't be multiplied by 1,000 can it? They are both
pretty small in size. Gotta get this all figured out before I can order what
I need. Thanks in advance for your help.

10% tolerance.

http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Capacitor_codes
may be useful

Graham

 

[§ńühw¤Łf]

On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ńühw¤Łf) got double
secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the waters of pure
thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ńühw¤Łf <snuhwolf@netscape.net> got double
secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret probation
for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in message
news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days
ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous power loss
periodically - sometimes seconds after booting, other
times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing the
power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware
(other than RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard
related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That way,
the errant loose one will be fixed and your problem will
be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take out a few
cables...fondle them...blow out the dust bunnies...listen to
the Grateful Dead live at Winterland for inspiration. Drink
another beer...
Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at random.
Leave shit scattered around on yer workbench and wander away.
Watch cartoons for another hour...
Come back and put it back together.
Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the side of the
gully and show them my Springfield 30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats of
annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying about...
Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially with steel toe
caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.

Smokin!

--
www.alternet.org

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Arfa Daily wrote:

Who can tell ? Why "Q" for a transistor ?

'T' was already used for 'Transformer'.


Why "U" for an IC ?


'I' was already used for 'Indicator'.


Why "VDD" ?


Voltage, 'Drain' (for cmos).

Why "VSS" ?

Voltage, 'Source' (for cmos).

I bet if you think for a while, there's loads of these that
don't 'appear' to make any sense, but must have to the o.e.d. I don't think
that there is anything particularly special about fusible resistors in terms
of the materials used to make the resistive element. As far as I know, they
are still carbon or metal film, with a completely non-flammable coating. I
think it is probably the internal connections that are 'necked' or something
to make them deliberately vulnerable to excess current, or heat in the
substrate, generated by excess dissipation.

Arfa

--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[Eeyore]

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

Arfa Daily wrote:

Who can tell ? Why "Q" for a transistor ?

'T' was already used for 'Transformer'.

Why "U" for an IC ?

'I' was already used for 'Indicator'.

By whom ?

In the UK we legend ICs as 'IC3' for example ! Too obvious ?

Now tell me a transistor is a 'Q' in the USA ! We use 'TR'.


Graham

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

ian field wrote:

Its a terrifying monster that preys on big girly wuss's.

Be afraid..............be very afraid!

Yawn.......................


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[Ron(UK)]

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

N_Cook wrote:
W for Wood's metal for the fusible part ?
Googling "wood's metal" AND "fusible resistor" produces nothing


It shouldn't. You don't want molten metal loose inside equipment.
Older fusible resistors were nichrome wire in a fiberglass, asbestos or
sand housing. A few manufacturers used carbon resistors, but running
them right at the rated current caused them to age, and the resistance
to rise, which caused false trips. The original Motorola 'Quasar, Works
in a drawer' TV chassis did this on the audio output transformer. You
had to use the specified brand and wattage resistor for repairs, because
of variations between brands. Metal film has replaced nichrome wire in
modern equipment. You wand the failed fuse to vaporize the conductor,
not melt it and let it still make contact, or worse, create plasma which
will carry a lot higher current than the fuse did.

Woods metal fusible links are used in such things as night storage
heaters. Possibly woods metal is used in microtemps but I doubt very
much if there`s any woods metal in fusible resistors.


Ron(UK)

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Apr 23, 1:23 pm, "ian field" <dai....@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"James Sweet" <jamessw...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:2DJPj.7340$XY1.2361@trndny03...







t...@mucks.net> wrote in message
news:ehmu041cmkkmrjomg3job3i79p9t0779kk@4ax.com...
I have a 10 year old 32" Magnavox that pincushions intermittently.

If you smack the housing it usually has an effect on the condition so
I suspect a connector or other hardware problem.

Before I actually tackle taking this 200 pound TV apart I thought I'd
ask for specific locations that may be suspect in the horizontal sweep
section of the TV. Any suggestions?

Cracked solder joint(s) in the pincussion circuit. Usually it sits
somewhere between the horizontal and the vertical sections.

I'd add to that, the fault should be attended to sooner rather than later as
arcing and carbonised PCB is a possibility.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Use a nice long non-conducting stick to push on various "things" to
see if you can locate the suspect area. It will cut down on the
inspection time considerably if you don't have to inspect the entire
chassis.

If you posted a model number it might help people as certain chassis's
have certain problems more frequently.

 

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es are much more accurate and reliable than a mechanical watch. What
makes quartz so accurate is its extremely high oscillations of up to 32,768
cycles per second
From: service0005@watchec.com
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 02:42:15 -0700 (PDT)
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Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
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SV1),gzip(gfe),gzip(gfe)
Xref: sp12lax.superfeed.net sci.electronics.repair:98855

You will find that with a quartz watch, you will on average lose or
gain up to one second per week. Compare that to a mechanical watch,
which can potentially lose or gain up to one minute per week. It is
obvious that quartz watches are much more accurate and reliable than a
mechanical watch. What makes quartz so accurate is its extremely high
oscillations of up to 32,768 cycles per second

at$B!'(Bsalereplicawatch.com