World's Worst Soldering!

[Cursitor Doom]

Hi all,

I just fixed up this classic Tek 466 scope I've been meaning to get
around to sorting out for the last few years. As you can see, my
soldering is atrocious. I've been soldering this type of circuitry for 50
years and never got any better at it in all that time. When it comes to
soldering and part-placement, I suck donkey dick!
Check it out and enjoy at my expense:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-
public/

and...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-
public/


As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!



--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

 

[Chris]

On Sun, 07 Oct 2018 09:35:55 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

photos not too clear, but looks like you need to be applying more
solder. If there's black muck involved, clean the joint better.

mebe theres something wrong wiht your browser as they show up v. clear
indeed on my monitor at any rate. outstandingly clear in fact i would say.
rotten soldering!

 

On Sunday, 7 October 2018 17:08:38 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote:

Hi all,

I just fixed up this classic Tek 466 scope I've been meaning to get
around to sorting out for the last few years. As you can see, my
soldering is atrocious. I've been soldering this type of circuitry for 50
years and never got any better at it in all that time. When it comes to
soldering and part-placement, I suck donkey dick!
Check it out and enjoy at my expense:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-
public/

and...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-
public/


As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

photos not too clear, but looks like you need to be applying more solder. If there's black muck involved, clean the joint better.


NT

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 7 Oct 2018 16:08:34 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
<curd@notformail.com> wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-public/
As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

There may be hope for you yet:

1. How many watts is your soldering iron? It looks like the mess
made by too low power or too fine a tip. 75 watt seems about right.

2. Is the soldering iron temperature controlled? If yes, raise the
temperature and work fast. Mine runs at 750F (400C) for 60/40
lead-tin. If no, go shopping and buy a decent adjustable temperature
controlled soldering station. Get a fine tip for fine work, and a
thicker tip for the big stuff (so that the tip doesn't go cold as soon
as you touch the work).

3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like
85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.

4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.
Tin the wire ends before attaching to a lug or PCB rivet.

I've dragged some of the local hams into my palatial office and
demonstrated how easy it is to solder properly with a decent soldering
iron. They're usually amazed at how well THEY can solder using my
equipment. That's when I discover that they're using something from
Radio Shack or that came with their childhood wood burner kit. I just
did a quick scan of what's available on eBay and noticed that they now
have OLED display aftermarket temp controllers for HAKKO soldering
irons. I'm tempted:
<https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=soldering+station+temperature+controlled>
Also, if you don't have a hot air SMD workstation, this might be a
good time to get one because they often include an adjustable
temperature controlled soldering iron.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Steff]

Really bad.. Im suprised that the diods are still alive after that burn.
Have to be a newly employed that did not get His/her 2hr education
before doing the job


Den 2018-10-07 kl. 18:08, skrev Cursitor Doom:

Hi all,

I just fixed up this classic Tek 466 scope I've been meaning to get
around to sorting out for the last few years. As you can see, my
soldering is atrocious. I've been soldering this type of circuitry for 50
years and never got any better at it in all that time. When it comes to
soldering and part-placement, I suck donkey dick!
Check it out and enjoy at my expense:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-
public/

and...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-
public/


As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

 

On Sunday, 7 October 2018 17:41:44 UTC+1, Chris wrote:

On Sun, 07 Oct 2018 09:35:55 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

photos not too clear, but looks like you need to be applying more
solder. If there's black muck involved, clean the joint better.

mebe theres something wrong wiht your browser as they show up v. clear
indeed on my monitor at any rate. outstandingly clear in fact i would say.
rotten soldering!

Turns out you're right, the test card shows the grey scale is a mess. Settings can't fix it. Ah well...


NT

 

On Sunday, 7 October 2018 18:36:07 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sun, 7 Oct 2018 16:08:34 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-public/
As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

There may be hope for you yet:

1. How many watts is your soldering iron? It looks like the mess
made by too low power or too fine a tip. 75 watt seems about right.

2. Is the soldering iron temperature controlled? If yes, raise the
temperature and work fast. Mine runs at 750F (400C) for 60/40
lead-tin. If no, go shopping and buy a decent adjustable temperature
controlled soldering station. Get a fine tip for fine work, and a
thicker tip for the big stuff (so that the tip doesn't go cold as soon
as you touch the work).

3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like
85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.

4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.
Tin the wire ends before attaching to a lug or PCB rivet.

I've dragged some of the local hams into my palatial office and
demonstrated how easy it is to solder properly with a decent soldering
iron. They're usually amazed at how well THEY can solder using my
equipment. That's when I discover that they're using something from
Radio Shack or that came with their childhood wood burner kit. I just
did a quick scan of what's available on eBay and noticed that they now
have OLED display aftermarket temp controllers for HAKKO soldering
irons. I'm tempted:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=soldering+station+temperature+controlled
Also, if you don't have a hot air SMD workstation, this might be a
good time to get one because they often include an adjustable
temperature controlled soldering iron.

It's also fair to say that even with a right piece of junk one can solder properly if you have the skill. In a drawer somewhere I have a 1950s Solon where the tip hangs loosely, but it still solders ok.


NT

 

[John Robertson]

On 2018/10/07 10:36 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Sun, 7 Oct 2018 16:08:34 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-public/
As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

There may be hope for you yet:

1. How many watts is your soldering iron? It looks like the mess
made by too low power or too fine a tip. 75 watt seems about right.

2. Is the soldering iron temperature controlled? If yes, raise the
temperature and work fast. Mine runs at 750F (400C) for 60/40
lead-tin. If no, go shopping and buy a decent adjustable temperature
controlled soldering station. Get a fine tip for fine work, and a
thicker tip for the big stuff (so that the tip doesn't go cold as soon
as you touch the work).

A good soldering station and good hand tools (eg. - strong needle nosed
pliers, shard edge clippers) are indispensable for repairing equipment
properly.

3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like
85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.

I spotted what looks like "10..." curling over the edge on the edge of
one of the caps, so he is at least using 105C caps. The caps should be
secured though.

4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.

Sandpaper may be too aggressive if a rough grit, that can introduce
scratches to the copper leaking to the potential for breakage. I suggest
using something more like wet/dry emery cloth of about 1000 grit - true,
it is another sandpaper, but less likely to scratch.

> Tin the wire ends before attaching to a lug or PCB rivet.

The invented bridge rectifier was poorly made for the space allowed, and
those bridge modules are readily available. If you need to make a bridge
module wrap the leads at least one loop around the others for a
mechanical junction prior to soldering. Then there less risk of a solder
joint breaking and introducing random loose parts into your equipment...

I've dragged some of the local hams into my palatial office and
demonstrated how easy it is to solder properly with a decent soldering
iron. They're usually amazed at how well THEY can solder using my
equipment. That's when I discover that they're using something from
Radio Shack or that came with their childhood wood burner kit. I just
did a quick scan of what's available on eBay and noticed that they now
have OLED display aftermarket temp controllers for HAKKO soldering
irons. I'm tempted:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=soldering+station+temperature+controlled

This looks handy - so I've ordered a couple for the shop:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352464262209

Nice to be able to check calibrations by comparison.

Also, if you don't have a hot air SMD workstation, this might be a
good time to get one because they often include an adjustable
temperature controlled soldering iron.

John :-#)#

 

Cursitor Doom

Hi all,

I just fixed up this classic Tek 466 scope I've been meaning to get
around to sorting out for the last few years. As you can see, my
soldering is atrocious. I've been soldering this type of circuitry for 50
years and never got any better at it in all that time. When it comes to
soldering and part-placement, I suck donkey dick!
Check it out and enjoy at my expense:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-
public/

Cool

and...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-
public/

Now that is an interesting bridge rectifier.


Here a raspberry replacing a big chip:
http://panteltje.com/panteltje/raspberry_pi_FDS132_matrix_display_driver/index.html
That thing has been working all day now since Dec 2013 without a glitch.
http://panteltje.com/pub/matrix_display_zoom_IMG_6609.JPG
Nothing to worry about.

Even older, 1985 or so, still works:
http://panteltje.com/pub/8052AH_BASIC_computer/8052AH_BASIC_computer_wiring_img_1756.jpg


>As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

Na, it is OK.


I sort of like soldering, but only 60/40, maybe it is the lead ...


http://panteltje.com/pub/z80/graphics_card_top.jpg
http://panteltje.com/pub/z80/graphics_card_bottom.jpg
have many boards like that....

Scroll down can you find the SMDs on the board?
http://panteltje.com/panteltje/raspberry_pi_dvb-s_transmitter/
that is some Giggle Hz stuff too.
It is still working, in fact added some stuff.

Soldering is simple.

You need a good temperature controlled soldering iron,
some solder wick, some 60/40, and there you go.
I count to 14 at 320 C for it to flow ... around pins.

 

On Sunday, 7 October 2018 19:58:49 UTC+1, John Robertson wrote:

The invented bridge rectifier was poorly made for the space allowed, and
those bridge modules are readily available. If you need to make a bridge
module wrap the leads at least one loop around the others for a
mechanical junction prior to soldering. Then there less risk of a solder
joint breaking and introducing random loose parts into your equipment...

People often overestimate the strength of solder - it's close to zero. Always make some sort of mechanical bond first, or reliability will not be yours.


NT

 

[Cursitor Doom]

On Sun, 07 Oct 2018 10:36:05 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> There may be hope for you yet:

Unfortunately not!

1. How many watts is your soldering iron? It looks like the mess made
by too low power or too fine a tip. 75 watt seems about right.

I have 15W, 25W, 40W and 80W irons. This atrocity was carried out with
the 15W one which has a pointed tip for some reason.

2. Is the soldering iron temperature controlled? If yes, raise the
temperature and work fast. Mine runs at 750F (400C) for 60/40 lead-tin.
If no, go shopping and buy a decent adjustable temperature controlled
soldering station. Get a fine tip for fine work, and a thicker tip for
the big stuff (so that the tip doesn't go cold as soon as you touch the
work).

You're very kind in attributing this train wreck of a repair to my having
the wrong tools, Jeff. Sadly I don't believe it's the case. This kind of
work requires a steady hand and a keen eye and I possess neither.

3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like
85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.

I followed the original spec as far as possible. The originals were
5500uF, 30VDC and 85C. I couldn't get the right capacitance within the
space available so used 33's in parallel. The old 85C's lasted for
decades so your 6 month assessment may be a bit pessimistic.

4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.
Tin the wire ends before attaching to a lug or PCB rivet.

Yes, I did do that. I know what I *should* do but it doesn't help.

Also, if you don't have a hot air SMD workstation, this might be a good
time to get one because they often include an adjustable temperature
controlled soldering iron.

Can you imagine the carnage I'd leave behind attempting SMD stuff?? :-D



--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

 

[John Larkin]

On Sun, 7 Oct 2018 11:58:41 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:

On 2018/10/07 10:36 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 7 Oct 2018 16:08:34 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-public/
As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

There may be hope for you yet:

1. How many watts is your soldering iron? It looks like the mess
made by too low power or too fine a tip. 75 watt seems about right.

2. Is the soldering iron temperature controlled? If yes, raise the
temperature and work fast. Mine runs at 750F (400C) for 60/40
lead-tin. If no, go shopping and buy a decent adjustable temperature
controlled soldering station. Get a fine tip for fine work, and a
thicker tip for the big stuff (so that the tip doesn't go cold as soon
as you touch the work).

A good soldering station and good hand tools (eg. - strong needle nosed
pliers, shard edge clippers) are indispensable for repairing equipment
properly.


3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like
85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.

I spotted what looks like "10..." curling over the edge on the edge of
one of the caps, so he is at least using 105C caps. The caps should be
secured though.


4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.

Sandpaper may be too aggressive if a rough grit, that can introduce
scratches to the copper leaking to the potential for breakage. I suggest
using something more like wet/dry emery cloth of about 1000 grit - true,
it is another sandpaper, but less likely to scratch.

I scrape magnet wire with an x-acto knife. That leaves a shiny surface
that wets nicely. I think the professional wire strippers use rotating
knives.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/27px827y9ed4mev/T850_L1_Tinned.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zcbo3i2krozy7g0/T850B_L1.jpg?raw=1


A serious high-power, controlled temp iron is basic to good soldering.
I like my Metcal.



--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

On Sunday, 7 October 2018 21:06:43 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sun, 07 Oct 2018 10:36:05 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

There may be hope for you yet:

Unfortunately not!

1. How many watts is your soldering iron? It looks like the mess made
by too low power or too fine a tip. 75 watt seems about right.

I have 15W, 25W, 40W and 80W irons. This atrocity was carried out with
the 15W one which has a pointed tip for some reason.

2. Is the soldering iron temperature controlled? If yes, raise the
temperature and work fast. Mine runs at 750F (400C) for 60/40 lead-tin.
If no, go shopping and buy a decent adjustable temperature controlled
soldering station. Get a fine tip for fine work, and a thicker tip for
the big stuff (so that the tip doesn't go cold as soon as you touch the
work).

You're very kind in attributing this train wreck of a repair to my having
the wrong tools, Jeff. Sadly I don't believe it's the case. This kind of
work requires a steady hand and a keen eye and I possess neither.

3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like
85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.

I followed the original spec as far as possible. The originals were
5500uF, 30VDC and 85C. I couldn't get the right capacitance within the
space available so used 33's in parallel. The old 85C's lasted for
decades so your 6 month assessment may be a bit pessimistic.

4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.
Tin the wire ends before attaching to a lug or PCB rivet.

Yes, I did do that. I know what I *should* do but it doesn't help.

Also, if you don't have a hot air SMD workstation, this might be a good
time to get one because they often include an adjustable temperature
controlled soldering iron.

Can you imagine the carnage I'd leave behind attempting SMD stuff?? :-D

15w is way too low power for what you're doing there. 25w & 40w are the ones to be using. 15w is better for smd work, hence the pointed tip.

You'll learn. We'll give you a hard time till you do.


NT

 

John Larkin wrote

I scrape magnet wire with an x-acto knife. That leaves a shiny surface
that wets nicely. I think the professional wire strippers use rotating
knives.

I just select 375 °C as soldering temperature,
that burns the magnet wire insulation,
and then you can just tin it.
Scraping damages the wire.
But watch out for the terrible possible toxic smell.

 

[John Robertson]

On 2018/10/07 1:26 PM, John Larkin wrote:

On Sun, 7 Oct 2018 11:58:41 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com
wrote:

On 2018/10/07 10:36 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 7 Oct 2018 16:08:34 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/45109856712/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/44247281105/in/dateposted-public/
As you can see, the "world's worst" tag was no exaggeration!

There may be hope for you yet:

1. How many watts is your soldering iron? It looks like the mess
made by too low power or too fine a tip. 75 watt seems about right.

2. Is the soldering iron temperature controlled? If yes, raise the
temperature and work fast. Mine runs at 750F (400C) for 60/40
lead-tin. If no, go shopping and buy a decent adjustable temperature
controlled soldering station. Get a fine tip for fine work, and a
thicker tip for the big stuff (so that the tip doesn't go cold as soon
as you touch the work).

A good soldering station and good hand tools (eg. - strong needle nosed
pliers, shard edge clippers) are indispensable for repairing equipment
properly.


3. Are those 3300uF 25V caps 85C caps or 105C? The photo looks like
85C. If so, they'll last about 6 months inside a hot oscilloscope.

I spotted what looks like "10..." curling over the edge on the edge of
one of the caps, so he is at least using 105C caps. The caps should be
secured though.


4. Clean the enamel off the wires with sandpaper before you solder.

Sandpaper may be too aggressive if a rough grit, that can introduce
scratches to the copper leaking to the potential for breakage. I suggest
using something more like wet/dry emery cloth of about 1000 grit - true,
it is another sandpaper, but less likely to scratch.

I scrape magnet wire with an x-acto knife. That leaves a shiny surface
that wets nicely. I think the professional wire strippers use rotating
knives.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/27px827y9ed4mev/T850_L1_Tinned.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zcbo3i2krozy7g0/T850B_L1.jpg?raw=1

I have a brush that uses fiberglass. Cleans quickly, bends a bit to get
the rounding needed, and doesn't run any risk of nicking the wire.

Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/191126624992

Also polishes edge connections, etc. a very useful tool.

A serious high-power, controlled temp iron is basic to good soldering.
I like my Metcal.

For regular board work I like my Weller stations with the magnetic temp
controlled tips, I mostly use the #7 medium or thin screwdriver tip.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[jfeng@my-deja.com]

On Sunday, October 7, 2018 at 1:36:19 PM UTC-7, 69883925...@nospam.org wrote:

John Larkin wrote
I scrape magnet wire with an x-acto knife. That leaves a shiny surface
that wets nicely. I think the professional wire strippers use rotating
knives.

I just select 375 °C as soldering temperature,
that burns the magnet wire insulation,
and then you can just tin it.
Scraping damages the wire.
But watch out for the terrible possible toxic smell.
I use a match to burn off the insulation. Sand paper also works without nicking the wire. I think I saw some kind of chemical stripper in the electronics catalogs, but I never tried those.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <ebfb52f0-b273-43e1-8684-4b7f64278e9f@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...

Also, if you don't have a hot air SMD workstation, this might be a good
time to get one because they often include an adjustable temperature
controlled soldering iron.

Can you imagine the carnage I'd leave behind attempting SMD stuff?? :-D

15w is way too low power for what you're doing there. 25w & 40w are the ones to be using. 15w is better for smd work, hence the pointed tip.

You'll learn. We'll give you a hard time till you do.

It seems to me that instead of a certain wattage of irons, the way to go
now is an iron with high wattage, say 50 or 70 watts but is temperature
controlled. Then match the size of the tip to the size of the work.

Those hot air stations from China for about $ 60 seem to work fine for
me as I am just doing it as a hobby and only use it once ever couple of
weeks. The hot air works well for the heat shrink tubing and sometime
to remove a daughter board from the mother board if it only ha a few
pins. The iron heats fast and comes with several tips.

Stay away from any solder that is not 60/40 or better 63/37. Size the
solder to the job. Maybe adding some extra flux will help you.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <c18c654d-d03a-4922-aecb-630adea5516e@googlegroups.com>,
jfeng@my-deja.com says...

I just select 375 °C as soldering temperature,
that burns the magnet wire insulation,
and then you can just tin it.
Scraping damages the wire.
But watch out for the terrible possible toxic smell.
I use a match to burn off the insulation. Sand paper also works without nicking the wire. I think I saw some kind of chemical stripper in the electronics catalogs, but I never tried those.

The high temperature iron sometimes works and sometime not depending on
the wire.

I usually use a Bic lighter and one of the Scotchbrite pads to finish
cleaning the wire.

 

[John Larkin]

On Sun, 07 Oct 2018 20:36:00 GMT, <698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org>
wrote:

John Larkin wrote
I scrape magnet wire with an x-acto knife. That leaves a shiny surface
that wets nicely. I think the professional wire strippers use rotating
knives.

I just select 375 °C as soldering temperature,
that burns the magnet wire insulation,
and then you can just tin it.

Beldsol and some similar wires are meant to be thermally stripped.

>Scraping damages the wire.

Not #14!

But watch out for the terrible possible toxic smell.

--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

<698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org> wrote in newspdl16$1gq8$1@gioia.aioe.org:

You need a good temperature controlled soldering iron,
some solder wick, some 60/40, and there you go.
I count to 14 at 320 C for it to flow ... around pins.

60/40 is for plumbing.

The electronics industry settled on and proved to be the best 63/37 and
for decades it was. This RoHS shit is the worst thing the world ever did.
Metallic form lead is not dangerous to the environment.

If it were, there would be huge lead levels around all the damned police
shooting ranges in the nation. There is not.