Wire Twisting Question

R

Rileyesi

Guest
I need to make a bunch of lengths of multi-conductor cables with soldered wire
ends. To be specific, the cable is 3 conductor of 18 gage multi-strand wires.
I started with a spool of cable, chopped the 4 feet I needed, cut the outer
jacket back and stripped the individual conductors back. Now, I need to
solder/tin the exposed ends of the wires. This is a "hand" process and my
fingers are getting raw twisting the wire strands together before I tin them.

I have about 100 cables to do (i.e. 600 wires to twist!). Other than twisting
them in my fingers before soldering them, are there any alternatives?!? I
tried using gloves (both latex and cotton) and the "touch" just is not there.
The wire ends just frayed.

One last thing, I intend to use a solder pot to tin the wire ends. The wires
in the multistrand wires are silver in color. Do I need to dip them in flux
before dipping them into the solder pot??

Thanks.
 
Rileyesi wrote:
I need to make a bunch of lengths of multi-conductor cables with soldered wire
ends. To be specific, the cable is 3 conductor of 18 gage multi-strand wires.
I started with a spool of cable, chopped the 4 feet I needed, cut the outer
jacket back and stripped the individual conductors back. Now, I need to
solder/tin the exposed ends of the wires. This is a "hand" process and my
fingers are getting raw twisting the wire strands together before I tin them.

I have about 100 cables to do (i.e. 600 wires to twist!). Other than twisting
them in my fingers before soldering them, are there any alternatives?!? I
tried using gloves (both latex and cotton) and the "touch" just is not there.
The wire ends just frayed.

One last thing, I intend to use a solder pot to tin the wire ends. The wires
in the multistrand wires are silver in color. Do I need to dip them in flux
before dipping them into the solder pot??

Thanks.
Click to expand...
If the wire stripping process is "clean", then you do not need to do
the Chubby Checker Twist.
There are automatic wire strippers that can do this; the best look
something like a pencil sharpener, if i remember correctly.
There also are hand-held wire strippers that look something like a
clothes pin, with a very sharp cutter inside. These aer precision
devices and must be bought forthe exact wire size you have.
Both are relatively expensive, with the second type costing far less.
 
Try this: when stripping the insulation off, don't pull it all the way off
with the tool. Hand pull the last fraction of an inch while twisting the
insulation. If you are doing a whole bunch of wires, you might get good at
it. It does work.

Tam
"Rileyesi" <rileyesi@aol.com.gov> wrote in message
news:20040508004508.09204.00000097@mb-m17.aol.com...
I need to make a bunch of lengths of multi-conductor cables with soldered
wire
ends. To be specific, the cable is 3 conductor of 18 gage multi-strand
wires.
I started with a spool of cable, chopped the 4 feet I needed, cut the
outer
jacket back and stripped the individual conductors back. Now, I need to
solder/tin the exposed ends of the wires. This is a "hand" process and my
fingers are getting raw twisting the wire strands together before I tin
them.

I have about 100 cables to do (i.e. 600 wires to twist!). Other than
twisting
them in my fingers before soldering them, are there any alternatives?!? I
tried using gloves (both latex and cotton) and the "touch" just is not
there.
The wire ends just frayed.

One last thing, I intend to use a solder pot to tin the wire ends. The
wires
in the multistrand wires are silver in color. Do I need to dip them in
flux
before dipping them into the solder pot??

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
On Sat, 08 May 2004 07:18:18 GMT, Robert Baer
<robertbaer@earthlink.net> wrote:


If the wire stripping process is "clean", then you do not need to do
the Chubby Checker Twist.
There are automatic wire strippers that can do this; the best look
something like a pencil sharpener, if i remember correctly.
There also are hand-held wire strippers that look something like a
clothes pin, with a very sharp cutter inside. These aer precision
devices and must be bought forthe exact wire size you have.
Both are relatively expensive, with the second type costing far less.
Click to expand...
Agree. A good wire stripper should allow you to cut the insulation
cleanly without nicking the wire. Then when removing the wire
insulation give it a slight twist to match the twist bias of the
multi-strand conductor. You should be able to expose the wire without
creating any frays or have loose strands.

This idea I haven't tried yet. That is have a bath of molten lead and
dip the wire ends into it. The multistrand wire should be able to wick
up the solder. Get one of those bench top single element lab heaters.
I got mine from Goodwill so I know they exist but don't know an
original supplier. The heating element area is 3.75 in dia and the
base is 5 in diameter. Or maybe you can do this on your kitchen
stove. I bought it to try to make metal casts of model figures. I am
still experimenting making a mold. To melt the casting metal and keep
it molten, I am using a stainless steel butter dish, also from
Goodwill.
 
"Rileyesi" <rileyesi@aol.com.gov> wrote in message
news:20040508004508.09204.00000097@mb-m17.aol.com...
I need to make a bunch of lengths of multi-conductor cables with soldered
wire
ends. To be specific, the cable is 3 conductor of 18 gage multi-strand
wires.
I started with a spool of cable, chopped the 4 feet I needed, cut the
outer
jacket back and stripped the individual conductors back. Now, I need to
solder/tin the exposed ends of the wires. This is a "hand" process and my
fingers are getting raw twisting the wire strands together before I tin
them.

I have about 100 cables to do (i.e. 600 wires to twist!). Other than
twisting
them in my fingers before soldering them, are there any alternatives?!? I
tried using gloves (both latex and cotton) and the "touch" just is not
there.
The wire ends just frayed.

One last thing, I intend to use a solder pot to tin the wire ends. The
wires
in the multistrand wires are silver in color. Do I need to dip them in
flux
before dipping them into the solder pot??

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Don't strip the wire completely off the end - when I strip wires. When
striping the wire I normally use the strippers to make the cut in the
sheath. It also pulls the sheath almost off the end of the core, but not
quite. Leave it about 2-3mm from the end. Use this to do the twist, and
you'll get a nice smooth twist. The sheath should naturally come off the
end of the wire as you finish twisting. This will leave you with a nice
finish for tinning, and will save alot of wear on your fingers.

Regards

Colin Dawson
www.cjdawson.com
 
KLM wrote:

This idea I haven't tried yet. That is have a bath of molten lead and
dip the wire ends into it. The multistrand wire should be able to wick
up the solder. Get one of those bench top single element lab heaters.
I got mine from Goodwill so I know they exist but don't know an
original supplier. The heating element area is 3.75 in dia and the
base is 5 in diameter. Or maybe you can do this on your kitchen
stove. I bought it to try to make metal casts of model figures. I am
still experimenting making a mold. To melt the casting metal and keep
it molten, I am using a stainless steel butter dish, also from
Goodwill.
Click to expand...
Solder pots are designed to be at the right temperature, be made of the
right material and be stable on the bench. Even so, they're DANGEROUS.
Heating lead on the kitchen stove in a random butter dish
sounds INSANE!! Make sure you have the fire department and the
ambulance on speed dial.
mike




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On Sat, 08 May 2004 13:59:22 -0700, mike <spamme0@juno.com> wrote:

Solder pots are designed to be at the right temperature, be made of the
right material and be stable on the bench. Even so, they're DANGEROUS.
Heating lead on the kitchen stove in a random butter dish
sounds INSANE!! Make sure you have the fire department and the
ambulance on speed dial.
mike
Click to expand...
I had heated stainless steel containers until they are red hot (1500
deg F) and the container doesn't deform, lose its integrity or melt.
Its somewhat oxide blackened when cooled but remains as strong as
ever.

Solder and the model casting metal melts at <500 deg F. When melting
lead bars and white metal on a stove the stainless steel container
doesn't even change color.

If you don't know how to improvise safely, and you come across as one
who can only do things by the book, then don't do it.

Long before modern equipment was available, and in many third world
countries today, working with high temperatures on metals is done all
the time. I had done my improvizations with many projects since I was
in Junior High and long before I worked on electronics. I now have
the proper equipment and tools in carpentry, machine shop and
electronics. But for the basic stuff many of the latest expensive
equipment is no better than the improvizations I did at an earlier
time. How do you think that we could have arrived at our present
"sophistication" without our predecessors having to work them the
primitive way first.
 
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