D
David Farber
Guest
I have a Whirlpool GSQ9300EQ0 direct drive washer. The date stamp says
it\'s from 1998. In the past, the only thing that ever failed on it was
the motor coupler. About every two or three years, I replace the coupler
and all is normal again. We do some heavy loads in our household so that
is not unexpected.
The new issue that cropped about a year ago was that the clothes were
very wet after the final spin cycle. I did my diligent youtube viewing
and suspected the clutch was bad. At first, I removed the old clutch,
sprayed the clutch pads with brake cleaner, reinstalled everything and
it worked fine for about 6 months. Then the washer landed back in the no
spin zone. This time, I ordered a new (non-OEM) clutch and it worked
fine for two loads and it stopped spinning again. I returned the clutch
for a refund and put the old clutch back in after cleaning it again and
it worked for a couple of months... and then it failed again. This time,
I ordered the heavy duty, 6-pad, OEM clutch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RRW32D (the old one was the 3 pad type)
and installed it two weeks ago. And of course after a couple of
successful wash cycles, the washer doesn\'t spin again. If we remove some
of the heavier clothes, it will spin up as usual. By the way, during my
many clutch changes, I\'ve never noticed any oil leaks.
For the first 20 years we owned the washer, this failure never happened
and I\'m thinking the clutch may not be the problem. I did some more
research on how the transmission, motor, brakes, and clutch all operate
and I have some questions:
Does the clutch pad assembly actually turn the basket? If so, does the
basket drive link up with the hooks where the spring keeps the pads
flush against the disc? (The next time the basket doesn\'t spin, I know I
need to look at the clutch disc and see if it\'s spinning rather than
just lighten the load until the basket spins again.) One mechanic uses a
water bottle to squirt water on the clutch and says, \"If the water boils
or smokes like this, the clutch is slipping and you need to check it
out.\" Makes sense to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q942xn_2VXY (at the 1:25 mark)
Also, there are several videos explaining how the neutral drain works
and what happens when it fails. Supposedly when it fails, the basket
will spin when it\'s not supposed to during the drain cycle. I was
wondering, can the neutral drain assembly fail with the opposite
symptom? Can the transmission get stuck in the neutral drain mode and
not advance to the spin mode?
The last time I replaced the clutch, I made sure the brakes were not
jammed and that the shoes moved easily. They were OK. I checked the lid
switch to make sure that wasn\'t reading a high resistance. It was
reading 0.2 ohms which is the same reading I get when I touch my meter
probes together. I\'m running out of ideas here. It doesn\'t make sense to
me that two new clutches won\'t even last through 5 loads of wash.
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
it\'s from 1998. In the past, the only thing that ever failed on it was
the motor coupler. About every two or three years, I replace the coupler
and all is normal again. We do some heavy loads in our household so that
is not unexpected.
The new issue that cropped about a year ago was that the clothes were
very wet after the final spin cycle. I did my diligent youtube viewing
and suspected the clutch was bad. At first, I removed the old clutch,
sprayed the clutch pads with brake cleaner, reinstalled everything and
it worked fine for about 6 months. Then the washer landed back in the no
spin zone. This time, I ordered a new (non-OEM) clutch and it worked
fine for two loads and it stopped spinning again. I returned the clutch
for a refund and put the old clutch back in after cleaning it again and
it worked for a couple of months... and then it failed again. This time,
I ordered the heavy duty, 6-pad, OEM clutch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RRW32D (the old one was the 3 pad type)
and installed it two weeks ago. And of course after a couple of
successful wash cycles, the washer doesn\'t spin again. If we remove some
of the heavier clothes, it will spin up as usual. By the way, during my
many clutch changes, I\'ve never noticed any oil leaks.
For the first 20 years we owned the washer, this failure never happened
and I\'m thinking the clutch may not be the problem. I did some more
research on how the transmission, motor, brakes, and clutch all operate
and I have some questions:
Does the clutch pad assembly actually turn the basket? If so, does the
basket drive link up with the hooks where the spring keeps the pads
flush against the disc? (The next time the basket doesn\'t spin, I know I
need to look at the clutch disc and see if it\'s spinning rather than
just lighten the load until the basket spins again.) One mechanic uses a
water bottle to squirt water on the clutch and says, \"If the water boils
or smokes like this, the clutch is slipping and you need to check it
out.\" Makes sense to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q942xn_2VXY (at the 1:25 mark)
Also, there are several videos explaining how the neutral drain works
and what happens when it fails. Supposedly when it fails, the basket
will spin when it\'s not supposed to during the drain cycle. I was
wondering, can the neutral drain assembly fail with the opposite
symptom? Can the transmission get stuck in the neutral drain mode and
not advance to the spin mode?
The last time I replaced the clutch, I made sure the brakes were not
jammed and that the shoes moved easily. They were OK. I checked the lid
switch to make sure that wasn\'t reading a high resistance. It was
reading 0.2 ohms which is the same reading I get when I touch my meter
probes together. I\'m running out of ideas here. It doesn\'t make sense to
me that two new clutches won\'t even last through 5 loads of wash.
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA