Which Pins Are The Filament On The Picture Tube - Please Hel

D

Dan Winker

Guest
Hi All,

I have this broken computer monitor. It's was a nice monitor when it
worked. The filament doesn't glow in the back of the picture tube
anymore. If the problem is no heater voltage getting to the picture
tube the thing is worth fixing. If the filament is broken inside it's
junk I think.

I googled and googled trying to find the pin-out of this picture tube.
I found some interesting stuff about video games and antique TVs, but
couldn't find the information I need.

Monitor is Gateway EV910, 19" (18" viewable). There are actually 10
pins on the back of the tube. Two are separated off by plastic -
probably focus voltages or something. Two pin positions are blank. The
socket is numbered. The two pins by themselves aren't numbered, but are
apparently 1 and 2. Looks like position 3 is taken up by the plastic
shield around 1 and 2. There is a hole numbered 4 on the socket, but
that's one of the blank positions on the picture tube. Then 5-12 are on
the picture tube outside of the plastic shield. There is a hole on the
socket numbered 13, but that's the other blank position on the tube.

Any pointers to where to look for the pin-out would be greatly
appreciated. Likewise to anyone who could just tell me which pins are
the heater, what the heater voltage should be would be a bonus.

Thanks in advance,
Dan
 
In article <3ff028b7$0$958$a1866201@newsreader.visi.com>,
Dan Winker <dwinker@visi.com> wrote:

Hi All,

I have this broken computer monitor. It's was a nice monitor when it
worked. The filament doesn't glow in the back of the picture tube
anymore. If the problem is no heater voltage getting to the picture
tube the thing is worth fixing. If the filament is broken inside it's
junk I think.

I googled and googled trying to find the pin-out of this picture tube.
I found some interesting stuff about video games and antique TVs, but
couldn't find the information I need.

Monitor is Gateway EV910, 19" (18" viewable). There are actually 10
pins on the back of the tube. Two are separated off by plastic -
probably focus voltages or something. Two pin positions are blank. The
socket is numbered. The two pins by themselves aren't numbered, but are
apparently 1 and 2. Looks like position 3 is taken up by the plastic
shield around 1 and 2. There is a hole numbered 4 on the socket, but
that's one of the blank positions on the picture tube. Then 5-12 are on
the picture tube outside of the plastic shield. There is a hole on the
socket numbered 13, but that's the other blank position on the tube.

Any pointers to where to look for the pin-out would be greatly
appreciated. Likewise to anyone who could just tell me which pins are
the heater, what the heater voltage should be would be a bonus.

Thanks in advance,
Dan
Click to expand...
Do a pin-pin resistance test. The filament pair will show a resistance.
Do pin 1-2, 1-3, 1-4 and so on. Then do pin 2-3, 2-4 2-5 and so on. Then
do pin 3-4, 3-5, 3-6 and so on. It seems like it would take a long time
to do this, but it'll only take a minute or two with the proper
technique.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......
 
Thanks Al. I did what you suggested, found the heater pins (because the
filament's not broken. Yea!), found that there wasn't any voltage
there, took lots of little shields and guards and stuff off, found an IC
voltage regulator/switch thing that controls voltage to the heater.

After puzzling over that for a bit I realized that the reason the heater
was off was because I had no signal into the monitor and the monitor
does shuts off the heater to save energy. I put a signal on there and
the heater lit up. Still no picture at all - but the heater lit up.

Now I notice that you don't ever get that little crackling sound as the
secondary anode charges up to thousands and thousands and thousands of
volts. I'll ohm out the horizontal output transistor. If it's not
obvious that that's the problem I'm throwing it away. Really this time.
It's not worth the effort. I really will throw it away. I mean it.

Thanks again Al.
Dan
 
Dan Winker wrote:
Thanks Al. I did what you suggested, found the heater pins (because the
filament's not broken. Yea!), found that there wasn't any voltage
there, took lots of little shields and guards and stuff off, found an IC
voltage regulator/switch thing that controls voltage to the heater.

After puzzling over that for a bit I realized that the reason the heater
was off was because I had no signal into the monitor and the monitor
does shuts off the heater to save energy. I put a signal on there and
the heater lit up. Still no picture at all - but the heater lit up.

Now I notice that you don't ever get that little crackling sound as the
secondary anode charges up to thousands and thousands and thousands of
volts. I'll ohm out the horizontal output transistor. If it's not
obvious that that's the problem I'm throwing it away. Really this time.
It's not worth the effort. I really will throw it away. I mean it.

Thanks again Al.
Dan
Click to expand...

Try news:sci.electronics.repair . Give them the Brand and Model
numbers, as well as the symptoms and they may be able to help you.
--
Merry Christmas!

Take care, and God bless.
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
In article <3FF049C9.ADF1C408@earthlink.net>,
mike.terrell@earthlink.net mentioned...
Dan Winker wrote:

Thanks Al. I did what you suggested, found the heater pins (because the
filament's not broken. Yea!), found that there wasn't any voltage
there, took lots of little shields and guards and stuff off, found an IC
voltage regulator/switch thing that controls voltage to the heater.

After puzzling over that for a bit I realized that the reason the heater
was off was because I had no signal into the monitor and the monitor
does shuts off the heater to save energy. I put a signal on there and
the heater lit up. Still no picture at all - but the heater lit up.

Now I notice that you don't ever get that little crackling sound as the
secondary anode charges up to thousands and thousands and thousands of
volts. I'll ohm out the horizontal output transistor. If it's not
obvious that that's the problem I'm throwing it away. Really this time.
It's not worth the effort. I really will throw it away. I mean it.

Thanks again Al.
Dan


Try news:sci.electronics.repair . Give them the Brand and Model
numbers, as well as the symptoms and they may be able to help you.
Click to expand...
Some places are selling a brand new 17" monitor for under $80. But
now they're telling us that we can't throw away a TV or monitor
because the glass has lead in it, and has to be recycled or disposed
of in a whatever. :-(


--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
In article <MPG.1a5a0691336363f3989ac9@news.dslextreme.com>,
Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, Dark Remover" <alondra101@hotmail.com>
wrote:

In article <3FF049C9.ADF1C408@earthlink.net>,
mike.terrell@earthlink.net mentioned...
Dan Winker wrote:

Thanks Al. I did what you suggested, found the heater pins (because the
filament's not broken. Yea!), found that there wasn't any voltage
there, took lots of little shields and guards and stuff off, found an IC
voltage regulator/switch thing that controls voltage to the heater.

After puzzling over that for a bit I realized that the reason the heater
was off was because I had no signal into the monitor and the monitor
does shuts off the heater to save energy. I put a signal on there and
the heater lit up. Still no picture at all - but the heater lit up.

Now I notice that you don't ever get that little crackling sound as the
secondary anode charges up to thousands and thousands and thousands of
volts. I'll ohm out the horizontal output transistor. If it's not
obvious that that's the problem I'm throwing it away. Really this time.
It's not worth the effort. I really will throw it away. I mean it.

Thanks again Al.
Dan


Try news:sci.electronics.repair . Give them the Brand and Model
numbers, as well as the symptoms and they may be able to help you.

Some places are selling a brand new 17" monitor for under $80. But
now they're telling us that we can't throw away a TV or monitor
because the glass has lead in it, and has to be recycled or disposed
of in a whatever. :-(
Click to expand...
Costs $10 per TV or monitor or Oscope to dispose of it at our recycling
center.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......
 
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