D
Dave VanHorn
Guest
I pay less than $2 per cell on Ebay.
K
Ken Weitzel
Guest
R.Lewis wrote:
Those new scanners (I don't have one yet) have 3 seperate
light sources.... one R, one G, and one B, so that the
light source can be made any temp you might want.
In the case of the cameras, the entry level ones just
default to a bright sunny day and leave it up to you
to compensate with post processing.
The mid levels have a few pre-determined choices,
like sunny, cloudy, incandescent, flourescent, etc
from which you may choose.
The top of the line cameras allow you to use
an 18% gray card to set with.
Take care.
Ken
Hi...
Those new scanners (I don't have one yet) have 3 seperate
light sources.... one R, one G, and one B, so that the
light source can be made any temp you might want.
In the case of the cameras, the entry level ones just
default to a bright sunny day and leave it up to you
to compensate with post processing.
The mid levels have a few pre-determined choices,
like sunny, cloudy, incandescent, flourescent, etc
from which you may choose.
The top of the line cameras allow you to use
an 18% gray card to set with.
Take care.
Ken
J
jakdedert
Guest
"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote
in message news:107gnajfr69027b@corp.supernews.com...
<snip>
maglites, turn one on for an hour or so. Then replace the cells and compare
the light output with a brand-new maglite. The bulbs silver up pretty
quickly, diminishing the output appreciably.
The only way to get full output from a mini mag is to have new cells, a
brand new bulb, and a well-polished reflector (and be careful not to drop
it)...none of which are requirements for a decent LED flashlight.
jak
in message news:107gnajfr69027b@corp.supernews.com...
<snip>
your maglite when it's turned on and see what happens...or take two
maglites, turn one on for an hour or so. Then replace the cells and compare
the light output with a brand-new maglite. The bulbs silver up pretty
quickly, diminishing the output appreciably.
The only way to get full output from a mini mag is to have new cells, a
brand new bulb, and a well-polished reflector (and be careful not to drop
it)...none of which are requirements for a decent LED flashlight.
jak
For more information that is likely better than hearsay, check out the
LED discussion groups at:
Yeah, hearsay, that's what I call much of your information. :-O
http://www.candlepowerforums.com
You'll be surprised at what is happening in flashlight land these days
- Jeff
Guest
On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 21:33:51 GMT, "Anthony Fremont"
<spam@anywhere.com> wrote:
Speaking of strippers... Forensics people use UV lights to look for
'male bodily fluids'. Cat urine also shows up under UV.
I have seen pens on eBay whose ink only shows up under UV. Suggested
uses were marking items sent in for repair to ensure you got the same
unit back. Marking properly so it could later be identified (thief
wouldn't see markings). Lots of other uses I can think of, too.
-Chris
<spam@anywhere.com> wrote:
Speaking of strippers... Forensics people use UV lights to look for
'male bodily fluids'. Cat urine also shows up under UV.
I have seen pens on eBay whose ink only shows up under UV. Suggested
uses were marking items sent in for repair to ensure you got the same
unit back. Marking properly so it could later be identified (thief
wouldn't see markings). Lots of other uses I can think of, too.
-Chris
J
Jeff Wiseman
Guest
Comments below:
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" wrote:
Well the EverLED also has regulation built in as well. On the
larger D cell maglites It can go for well over 20 hours before
starting to really dim. This is because it's using more of the
battery. A regular bulb will show much more dimming prior to that
even with more life left in the batteries. "dead" batteries with
a regular bulb can be put into a light with the everled and they
can then still produce significant light.
You're right though, it's a bit more than just the LED. The
EverLED only needs 1.5volts (a single cell) to light but can be
used in a 6 cell (9 volt) flashlight. Try putting a 6 cell bulb
into a 1 cell flashlight and with a fresh battery it still will
not be real usable.
BTW, I was also not sure if it was a Luxeon Star or one of
LumiLED's other products being used in the EverLED.
Yes, this is true, but using the CR-123 with LED technology can
help some. Also, Lithiums do NOT have the problem of alkalines or
any rechargables when used in freezing temperatures.
Even with rechargable batteries though, you'll need to change
them 4-7 times where some LEDs will only need it once. Also, with
the small CR-123 type lights and their high intensity outputs
aren't always useful. You can have too much light. That's why
things like the ARC4+ are intrguing since they can be turned way
down if desired. Although you only get about 30 minutes at top
intensity, it can be extended to over 20 hours on the lower settings.
I do stand corrected. You are absolutely right in that a fresh AA
minimag with a new unsilvered bulb IS brighter than the ARC AAA
at first. But if you turn them both on and leave them on for,
say, 3 hours or more it won't be. The usable light from the
minimag is gone and you'll have a few more hours of usable light
from the ARC. If you leave the minimag on when it's batteries are
run down, this is one of the things that accelerates the
silvering of the bulb so if you leave both on for, say 10 hours
continues, the ARC will need a single new AAA battery whereas the
mag will need two new AA's and a new bulb if it's to work as well
as it did 10 hours earlier.
However, the light from the ARC is whiter and more even than the
minimag at any setting. In general, I PERSONALLY have found that
the overall performance of the ARC over the minimag has resulted
in my minimag being left unused a lot of the time. YMMV
I shouldn't have misrepresented the total output of the AA
minimag that way though. Thanks for correcting me.
Yes, in part. Also though is the fact that as the batteries wear
out and their Voltage drops, the usable light from the
incandescent drops much faster. For example, I had a nearly
"dead" battery in a Maglite Solitare (the single AAA version).
The mag would only barely glow. I take that battery and put it
into my ARC AAA and it lites up as bright as with a new battery.
I was able to get another couple hours of light out of the
maglite's "dead" battery. And the output of the Solitare when
fresh with new batterys and bulb is about the same as the ARC
(although I prefer the evenness and color of the ARC for reading).
LEDs can not only draw a battery down slower for a given light
output, that can be made to draw them down FURTHER using up more
of the battery before it needs to be disposed of.
I have a 3Dmaglite with an EverLED, a minmag, a mag solitare, and
an ARC AAA as well as a handlful of other incandescents. I've
experimented a lot and have done my share of research on these.
With the exception of the output mistake that I made and that you
corrected for me, I wouldn't really call it hearsay. However,
there certainly is a lot of it out there.
Again, although I'm not an active member of the forums, I would
encourage anyone interested in these topics to explore the URL:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com
There are some guys there that are very much into the hobby who
are using some very decent methods of doing comparisons on issues
such as these. Check out the reviews forum at:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB16
There are some interesting collectings of output vs throw and
runtime plots for many different flashlights.
- Jeff
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" wrote:
Well the EverLED also has regulation built in as well. On the
larger D cell maglites It can go for well over 20 hours before
starting to really dim. This is because it's using more of the
battery. A regular bulb will show much more dimming prior to that
even with more life left in the batteries. "dead" batteries with
a regular bulb can be put into a light with the everled and they
can then still produce significant light.
You're right though, it's a bit more than just the LED. The
EverLED only needs 1.5volts (a single cell) to light but can be
used in a 6 cell (9 volt) flashlight. Try putting a 6 cell bulb
into a 1 cell flashlight and with a fresh battery it still will
not be real usable.
BTW, I was also not sure if it was a Luxeon Star or one of
LumiLED's other products being used in the EverLED.
Yes, this is true, but using the CR-123 with LED technology can
help some. Also, Lithiums do NOT have the problem of alkalines or
any rechargables when used in freezing temperatures.
Even with rechargable batteries though, you'll need to change
them 4-7 times where some LEDs will only need it once. Also, with
the small CR-123 type lights and their high intensity outputs
aren't always useful. You can have too much light. That's why
things like the ARC4+ are intrguing since they can be turned way
down if desired. Although you only get about 30 minutes at top
intensity, it can be extended to over 20 hours on the lower settings.
I do stand corrected. You are absolutely right in that a fresh AA
minimag with a new unsilvered bulb IS brighter than the ARC AAA
at first. But if you turn them both on and leave them on for,
say, 3 hours or more it won't be. The usable light from the
minimag is gone and you'll have a few more hours of usable light
from the ARC. If you leave the minimag on when it's batteries are
run down, this is one of the things that accelerates the
silvering of the bulb so if you leave both on for, say 10 hours
continues, the ARC will need a single new AAA battery whereas the
mag will need two new AA's and a new bulb if it's to work as well
as it did 10 hours earlier.
However, the light from the ARC is whiter and more even than the
minimag at any setting. In general, I PERSONALLY have found that
the overall performance of the ARC over the minimag has resulted
in my minimag being left unused a lot of the time. YMMV
I shouldn't have misrepresented the total output of the AA
minimag that way though. Thanks for correcting me.
Yes, in part. Also though is the fact that as the batteries wear
out and their Voltage drops, the usable light from the
incandescent drops much faster. For example, I had a nearly
"dead" battery in a Maglite Solitare (the single AAA version).
The mag would only barely glow. I take that battery and put it
into my ARC AAA and it lites up as bright as with a new battery.
I was able to get another couple hours of light out of the
maglite's "dead" battery. And the output of the Solitare when
fresh with new batterys and bulb is about the same as the ARC
(although I prefer the evenness and color of the ARC for reading).
LEDs can not only draw a battery down slower for a given light
output, that can be made to draw them down FURTHER using up more
of the battery before it needs to be disposed of.
I have a 3Dmaglite with an EverLED, a minmag, a mag solitare, and
an ARC AAA as well as a handlful of other incandescents. I've
experimented a lot and have done my share of research on these.
With the exception of the output mistake that I made and that you
corrected for me, I wouldn't really call it hearsay. However,
there certainly is a lot of it out there.
Again, although I'm not an active member of the forums, I would
encourage anyone interested in these topics to explore the URL:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com
There are some guys there that are very much into the hobby who
are using some very decent methods of doing comparisons on issues
such as these. Check out the reviews forum at:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB16
There are some interesting collectings of output vs throw and
runtime plots for many different flashlights.
- Jeff
J
Jeff Wiseman
Guest
Dave VanHorn wrote:
Check out Surefire's website (www.surefire.com). You can get them
there by the box for as low as $1.25 each.
- Jeff
Check out Surefire's website (www.surefire.com). You can get them
there by the box for as low as $1.25 each.
- Jeff
D
Don Klipstein
Guest
In article <8028c236.0404090140.1e09973f@posting.google.com>, wylbur37 wrote:
Target sells a few LED models by Dorcy.
Sears and a few hardware stores have a Dorcy LED model or two.
The availability gets much better with mail-order and web retailers such
as Brookstone.
I have seen a couple LED "keychain lights" at K-Mart and Rite Aid.
Please check out a major LED, LED product, and LED flashlight review
site - http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledleft.htm
This site mentions dozens of LED flashlights and where to get most of
them - mostly other than stores that you can walk into.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/ledx.html)
I can say for Philadelphia, especially its suburbs:
Target sells a few LED models by Dorcy.
Sears and a few hardware stores have a Dorcy LED model or two.
The availability gets much better with mail-order and web retailers such
as Brookstone.
I have seen a couple LED "keychain lights" at K-Mart and Rite Aid.
Please check out a major LED, LED product, and LED flashlight review
site - http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledleft.htm
This site mentions dozens of LED flashlights and where to get most of
them - mostly other than stores that you can walk into.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/ledx.html)
D
Don Klipstein
Guest
In article <c561oa$653$1@news.eusc.inter.net>, Jerry G. wrote:
they cost more.
I have a darker suspicion: Many retail-available flashlight brands
(Mag is a notable exception) are brands of battery manufacturers. Many
retailers sell batteries. And when batteries weaken, an incandescent bulb
greatly loses efficiency while LEDs tend to have much lesser to sometimes
no loss of efficiency from being underpowered. LEDs will give you enough
light to see by from batteries too weak to make an incandescent flashlight
bulb outshine a cigarette. Also, when batteries get weak incandescent
bulbs have less resistance (continue to drain the batteries heavily)
while LEDs have increased resistance (effectively go into "energy
conservation mode"). And the manufacturers and retailers that are
reluctant to sell LED flashlights make a lot more money from selling
batteries than from selling flashlights.
Note that the somewhat common Eveready LED light takes batteries of a
size that I don't see their conventional flashlights using.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/ledx.html)
Ones as bright as conventional ones can be made and are available, but
they cost more.
I have a darker suspicion: Many retail-available flashlight brands
(Mag is a notable exception) are brands of battery manufacturers. Many
retailers sell batteries. And when batteries weaken, an incandescent bulb
greatly loses efficiency while LEDs tend to have much lesser to sometimes
no loss of efficiency from being underpowered. LEDs will give you enough
light to see by from batteries too weak to make an incandescent flashlight
bulb outshine a cigarette. Also, when batteries get weak incandescent
bulbs have less resistance (continue to drain the batteries heavily)
while LEDs have increased resistance (effectively go into "energy
conservation mode"). And the manufacturers and retailers that are
reluctant to sell LED flashlights make a lot more money from selling
batteries than from selling flashlights.
Note that the somewhat common Eveready LED light takes batteries of a
size that I don't see their conventional flashlights using.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/ledx.html)
D
Don Klipstein
Guest
In article <c57uqb$laq$2@news.eusc.inter.net>, Jerry G. wrote:
as computers have throughout the past few decades. I expect that a decade
from now, fluorescents will be more economical than LEDs for general room
lighting.
incandescent lamps than to have white LEDs outperform uncolored
incandescent lamps. LEDs are normally good at being specialists at
producing light of one particular color or another, while making colored
light from an incandescent requires having a filter that blocks some of
the light.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/ledx.html)
I think that was optimistic. LEDs have only advanced about half as fast
as computers have throughout the past few decades. I expect that a decade
from now, fluorescents will be more economical than LEDs for general room
lighting.
It is easier for colored LEDs to outperform colored lights with
incandescent lamps than to have white LEDs outperform uncolored
incandescent lamps. LEDs are normally good at being specialists at
producing light of one particular color or another, while making colored
light from an incandescent requires having a filter that blocks some of
the light.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/ledx.html)
D
Don Klipstein
Guest
In article <UCJdc.63613$oR5.11632@pd7tw3no>, Ken Weitzel wrote:
especially probably do not produce the required amount of light into every
direction/angle at which a legal requirement is specified.
Even at auto parts stores such as Pep Boys, I see on display for sale
bulbs that are obviously illegal. The more honest of the illegal
fashionable bulbs/lamps/lights have disclaimers along the lines of:
* "Check local laws before using" (usually means unlawful for use on all
public roads under any municipal and/or county and/or state
jurisdiction of most to all of the 50 US "states").
* "For off-road use only" (illegal to use or maybe even have operational
on your vehicle while your vehicle is on a public road anywhere or at
least in most locations of the USA)
In my state, "off-road" lights on street-legal vehicles must be either
(maybe both) be covered or otherwise rendered unusable in a way that
requires someone to be outside the vehicle to restore usability, in
addition to requiring being disconnected and not just by a switch within
reach of a seated vehicle occupant (I heard that plugs and jacks are OK,
possibly even if in the reach of a driver in the driver's seat, but this
is hearsay).
* "Racing" - as in legal on a race track but not on a public road. Ever
notice that real race cars lack "racing lights"?
As for safety - in my experience, most cars have redundant bulbs for
brake and backup and tail lights and rear turn signal lights.
The "Driver Manual" for my state recommends frequent checking that one's
car has all bulbs working and to immediately replace any that are not
working. I have heard that in my state and in a neighboring one, a burnt
out bulb having a legally required function can get you a ticket that can
be negated by having the bulb replaced by a professional mechanic
giving you a receipt within 24 hours after the time on the ticket.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)
BEWARE - they probably do not produce the required amount of light, and
especially probably do not produce the required amount of light into every
direction/angle at which a legal requirement is specified.
Even at auto parts stores such as Pep Boys, I see on display for sale
bulbs that are obviously illegal. The more honest of the illegal
fashionable bulbs/lamps/lights have disclaimers along the lines of:
* "Check local laws before using" (usually means unlawful for use on all
public roads under any municipal and/or county and/or state
jurisdiction of most to all of the 50 US "states").
* "For off-road use only" (illegal to use or maybe even have operational
on your vehicle while your vehicle is on a public road anywhere or at
least in most locations of the USA)
In my state, "off-road" lights on street-legal vehicles must be either
(maybe both) be covered or otherwise rendered unusable in a way that
requires someone to be outside the vehicle to restore usability, in
addition to requiring being disconnected and not just by a switch within
reach of a seated vehicle occupant (I heard that plugs and jacks are OK,
possibly even if in the reach of a driver in the driver's seat, but this
is hearsay).
* "Racing" - as in legal on a race track but not on a public road. Ever
notice that real race cars lack "racing lights"?
As for safety - in my experience, most cars have redundant bulbs for
brake and backup and tail lights and rear turn signal lights.
The "Driver Manual" for my state recommends frequent checking that one's
car has all bulbs working and to immediately replace any that are not
working. I have heard that in my state and in a neighboring one, a burnt
out bulb having a legally required function can get you a ticket that can
be negated by having the bulb replaced by a professional mechanic
giving you a receipt within 24 hours after the time on the ticket.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)
D
Don Klipstein
Guest
In article <c57b3p$a2n$1@thorium.cix.co.uk>, R.Lewis wrote:
the much-maligned and traditional, stil somewhat popular "Cool White"
fluorescents that typically rate a 62.
Also note that digital cameras largely avoid a problem that most films
have with most non-daylight non-incandescent non-xenon white light: Many
white light sources (other than incandescent and xenon) are to some extent
or another optimized for human eyeballs, which do not see the various
wavelengths of red visible light as equally as most films do. So a lot of
white artifical light sources look less red to film than to human vision.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/dschtech.html)
The usual white LEDs have CRI anywhere from 75 to 85, much better than
the much-maligned and traditional, stil somewhat popular "Cool White"
fluorescents that typically rate a 62.
Also note that digital cameras largely avoid a problem that most films
have with most non-daylight non-incandescent non-xenon white light: Many
white light sources (other than incandescent and xenon) are to some extent
or another optimized for human eyeballs, which do not see the various
wavelengths of red visible light as equally as most films do. So a lot of
white artifical light sources look less red to film than to human vision.
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com, http://www.misty.com/~don/dschtech.html)
D
Don Klipstein
Guest
In article <mAJdc.63595$oR5.7310@pd7tw3no>, Ken Weitzel wrote:
is no significant life expectancy penalty for frequent starts. These
things outlast hot cathode fluorescents!
The compromise of cold cathode fluorescents is that they are a little
less efficient than hot cathode fluorescents, along with some efficiency
compromise from having their diameter usually smaller than optimum for
maximum efficiency from fluorescents.
NOTE - smaller diameter raises the voltage drop, which mitigates the
efficiency-reducing factors of short lamp length and/or high "cathode
fall" (as in "cold cathode").
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)
Cold cathode fluorescent is actually a longlife technology. Also there
is no significant life expectancy penalty for frequent starts. These
things outlast hot cathode fluorescents!
The compromise of cold cathode fluorescents is that they are a little
less efficient than hot cathode fluorescents, along with some efficiency
compromise from having their diameter usually smaller than optimum for
maximum efficiency from fluorescents.
NOTE - smaller diameter raises the voltage drop, which mitigates the
efficiency-reducing factors of short lamp length and/or high "cathode
fall" (as in "cold cathode").
- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)